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darrinsmith

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About darrinsmith

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 12/28/1971

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  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Perth, Western Australia
  • Porsche Club
    Other
  • Present cars
    2003 Cayenne Turbo Silver/Black
    2004 996 Turbo Cab Silver/Black
  • Former cars
    '98 996 Cab Tip Jade Metallic/Black
    '98 Boxster Man White/Tan
    '92 968 Tiptronic silver/wine
    '84 944 Man Burgandy/Brown
    '79 924 Man Silver/Black

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  1. Hi No you won't need the durametric to set the servo's for disassembly as the software can't do it anyhow. I really do recommend you buy the software if you want to work on your car. It's really helpful to know which servo's are actually broken, as you can test them all, plus the blower motor etc with it. Plus you can trouble shoot all the other gremlins in the cayenne's As far as the manuals go, if you ask "porschelibrarian" on this forum he can get you a copy, they are LHD versions so will suit you car just fine. To get to the lower servo's you need to remove the A/C controller, ash
  2. I have just replaced a few in my car (RHD) but the procedure should be the same for you. See my post http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44003-air-cond-blowing-cold-on-right-hot-on-left/ It is motor #10 right hand temperature mixing flap motor you need to change. You should be able to to change yours without taking the whole dash out though. If you're up to it bite the bullet and pull the dash and fix them all. I had to fix the defrost flap motor and you can only get to that by removing the dash. Good luck!
  3. Ok I finally fixed the stupid air cond servo motors. I ordered 3 (defroster flap, left hand outboard, and right hand temperature mixer flap) - My car is a RHD ($280 each OUCH). I didn't bother with the footwell servos as it never get's really cold here. You need to remove the dash, it's a pain but can be done. The trick is to work slowly. The procedure is covered in the workshop manual, it just looks much harder than it is. Some points to note. 1) I'd suggest unlocking the steering wheel, and putting the car into "D" and opening the rear tailgate BEFORE you disconnect the battery (you w
  4. Hi Can anyone recommend some high quality LED DRL's to suit a 996 turbo. (they need to work well and look good). I tried some e-bay cheapies but they were crap (not very bright/died as soon as they got wet). Also suggestions/pictures of mounting points? The front air ducts are the likely candidates. Thanks DS
  5. Spare a thought for us Australian drivers! I don't have a 991, but a 996 turbo. Granted the suspension is fairly hard on that thing, but some of the roads here.. Worst (sealed) road ever (IMHO), Great Northern Highway between Bullsbrook and Bindoon outside Perth. It's a struggle to keep the car on the road. Happy Driving... DS
  6. Ok finally fixed my Kessy and now I can communicate with the A/C unit again. I'm getting the same errors still. I'd like to try getting at the regulator motors so I can test them and possibly replace them. I have a RHD car, and the regulators are on the LHS of the centre tunnel. But you can't really get to them as the condenser assembly is in the way. Can anyone shed any light on how to get to the servo motors in a RHD vehicle. All the instructions I've seen refer to the LHD vehicles, where the blower/condenser assembly is the mirror image. Thanks DS
  7. Sorry to bump this old thread, but I finanally got around to removing the Kessy and fixing it. Some notes to help RHD vehicle owners. 1) disconnect the battery - important as you'll be disconnecting the vehicle electrical control module (VECM). 2) remove the lower dash panel AND the upper dash surround (you'll need unhook the park brake release cable - it's not hard, use a small flat screwdriver to lever out the "ball" on the end of the cable), disconnect the headlight and light level adjustment switches 3) disconnect the connectors to the vehicle electrical control module. This is the 5 w
  8. Hi I'm chasing the part number for the transmission valve body (switch unit). My car is 2003 Cayenne Turbo (ID9L) It's a RHD/RoW (Australian) model. The VIN is 9PZ4LA80155 I think it might be 955 325 039 00? Thanks DS
  9. Good point, unfortunately I already tossed the old filter and it was garbage/recycle day the next day, so it's gone :-( It was the only thing I did to the car on that day though. I should clarify, I'd done the oil and other bits a the previous week as I'd ordered the filter separately and it took longer to arrive, so it was done on a separate day (I keep a "stock" of oil filers/crush rings etc at home). I'd done the battery charge test a few weeks earlier, and the boost leak test about a month ago. I did the spark plugs/drive belt today. I still think it's a "Fair" bet that the filter was
  10. I forgot to tighten the bolts on the servo pulley, and it gave an almighty clatter. Just a pointer if you get the same noise, check the bolts are tight... You use a 15mm socket on the small black nut on the tensioner arm, not the 24mm nut on the tensioner pulley itself. Doing it this way you can easily do it yourself. I also found it easier to slip the belt over the alternator and then over the lower roller last of all, as the alternator pulley has a ridge on it, whereas the roller pulley below the alternator is smooth so the belt slips over it easily. It's actually #8 (the last step) in th
  11. Thanks for a great write-up. I just did this job (although I only replaced the regulator on the back of the alternator). I'd like to add a couple of points I found when I was doing the job. 1) Removing the "Y" pipe; you can easily slip the little vacuum hose off the other end. It's attached to the pressure solenoid and slips right off. You can then remove the whole "Y" pipe with the little vacuum hose still attached. The solenoid is a known problem and at about $20 worth replacing while you're in there. 2) When you release the tension on the belt don't use the 24mm nut. If you look careful
  12. There seem to also be numerous "kits" for doing this. I recently saw a "turtle wax headlight restorer kit". (Dougg996 - supercheaps sell it for $30 bucks). Has anyone had any luck with these kits, or is the DIY option the best. My RH headlight looks like a crow did line dancing on it, it's not foggy though..
  13. Hi everyone. I just wanted to share this in case anyone else is having this issue. Background, stock 2004 turbo tip with 80,000km. I've been chasing really rough cold idle (engine surges and almost stalls) and "jerky" acceleration on this car since I bought it (at about 50,000km). Sometimes it would also stall when coming to a stop (it's an auto so it's a PITA when it happens). I cleaned the MAF, and checked for boost/induction leaks. Everything was good there. No errors in durametric. I also made sure the battery was fully charged (interestingly a marginal improvement, but nothing concre
  14. OK I found Bigbuz's post on rennlist with the torque settings. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/porsche-cayenne-forum/641849-front-lower-control-arm.html I couldn't find it in the workshop manual. Thanks DS
  15. Hi Can someone please point me to the factory procedure for replacing the lower control arms. (I'm just going to buy the whole arm assembly x2 rather then muck around with individual bushings). I'm not going to tackle it myself, but clients who run a tyre shop will do it for me. They pointed out they were stuffed when they rotated my tyres last, and the front end clunks like crazy. They mainly work on Fords, but they'll do it if I source the parts, and give them the procedure as a guide. Is there anything else I should replace while they're doing that? (upper arms?). I have air suspension
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