darrinsmith

Sorry about the delay, here's a pic.

As you can see the filter has basically fallen apart.

I read somewhere that someone had made a new one out of a lawn mower filter element.

It's certainly very similar material.

But this pump appears to be a relatively common AC Delco unit (It says Made In USA), so there must be a filter out there somewhere.

Cheers

DS

Hi

I have my turbo apart to fix the dreaded t-pipe (I have a brass solution that I will post soon!)

I also took my air pumps apart to clean them (as I removed them to access the pipes at the back of the engine) and one of the filters is cactus.

I know they don't get used much, but it's really dusty where I live so I'd like to replace them to avoid the pump failing and generating an error.

There's no listing I can find in the parts catalogue, only the whole pump.

I've heard it's the same as a Camaro air pump, probably made by AC Delco???

Can anyone help with a replacement?

Cheers!

DS

+1 to Hahnmgh63.

Here's the link to the unit.

http://navtv.com/product/218/most-hur-955.html?forceShowProduct=1

Note the last point (infrared steering wheel commands to Kenwood or Alpine (only) aftermarket radios).

So you'll need a suitable kenwood or alpine head unit budget about $1K I guess cheaper if you shop around.

So probably about $1,600 all up if you DIY.

The main issues I've head with installing these is just getting the config file correct for the head unit, and something to do with the volume settings for the BOSE amp.

I was seriously considering one as I have the older CD based unit and Porsche Australia aren't making any more NAV updates for it. (Last one was in 2008), but it's a lot of $$ to spend just for the NAV function.

Cheers

DS

Hi

With the MOST optical system your only real options are

1) use a Denison or mobridge to hook you phone in, both have pros and cons, I have both, one in each car and they both have things that are good and things that suck.

2) use the nav tv Mosthur device, nav tv dont give much away on their website, and it only supports a few head units.

Alternatively you replace head unit and use one of the can bus interfaces to maintain steering wheel controls and ditch the Bose amp.

Keep in mind though that the Bose system runs on 2 ohm speakers so you either need new speakers or amps that will drive at 2 ohms.

Fortunately most good amps alpine etc can drive 2 ohms.

You are going to really struggle to do any of the above on your budget.

Best of luck.

Cheers

DS

Sorry guys one more.

So I got the top aluminium pipes out (the bottom one is still giving me trouble!).

It looks like the dealer used some sort of pink stuff on the seals (or else the coolant has made it pink).

What should I be using in re-install, I though it should be a lubricant like the porsche grease or similar.

This stuff was like a sealant. Those top pipes were super tough to get out!

Thanks

DS

It was one I got off eBay. Just search "Porsche drl controller". They are actually a generic item not Porsche specific though.

The same item is normally listed for every car on the planet!

Thanks hahnmgh63 I'll go for the redline. I can get that on eBay from a supplier in Sydney who imports it from the USA at a reasonable price.

The nulon is gl-5 but as its an unknown quantity ie. untested in these cars I'll give it a miss for the sake of a few dollars.

Cheers!

DS

Does anyone know if you can use Redline 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil (fully synthetic) for the front and rear diffs?

Any thoughts on Nulon (Aus brand) http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Gear_and_Differential_Oils/Full_Synthetic_75W-90_Performance_Smooth_Shift_Manual_Gearbox_and_Transaxle_Oil/#.UZ2Rrb6Q-Uk

Mobil 1 is not available to end consumers in Australia due to licensing deals Mobil has made with manufacturers.

Thanks

DS

You'll love this.... so I go to remove the rear upper retaining bracket from the aluminium pipes only to discover that I can't.

The stealer had reused the old superseded part (94810605903) rather than the new 2 piece bracket (94810625900/94810626900), AND had the balls to charge me for the new brackets!

Sent off a "please explain" e-mail....

Can't figure it out, it would have been such a PITA to replace with the old part, the new one would have been much easier...

Oh Well, I'm really glad I decided to tackle this job myself now...

Thanks

Definitely off to the plumbing store to source brass T.

The front one wvicary is talking about looks like crankcase ventilation. Ill look at that too.

Might take some pics of the starter removal seeing as how theres no DIY.

Got the whole top off this arvo, took about 1.5 hrs.

Thanks.

I've decided I'm going to do the job myself. While I'm in there I'll do the starter as well, as it does screech every now and then.

I don't see a DIY for the starter. I assume it's just remove connectors and a couple of bolts and replace?

I'm also replacing the coolant tank cap as a precaution, but I'll pressure test the whole system when I finish.

Thanks

DS

The interior lights don't need load resistors.

I just swapped my internal with led wedge globes from china.

The whole set was less than $15 with postage, so you definately don't need an expensive set from a fancy "tuning" shop.

I did choose to leave the reading lights as normal as the LEDs are so bright I find them too distracting if the passenger is reading etc at night.

+1 for pknI had this exact same symptom just before my 2003 turbo dumped its coolant out the back of the engine.

It runs all over the transmission. Caused the trans to go into 5 and it wouldnt shift at all.

Check your coolant level when it's cold to be sure.

Cheers

DS

Hi

My turbo dumped all it's coolant out the back of the engine on Thursday, bummer.....

I had the aluminium upgrade done in December 2008 at the local "dealer" at a cost of nearly $5K (which admittedly did include replacing the water pump, all the pencil coils and the horns and $60 for a loan car!)

We were advised to replace all sorts of little pipes and hoses (I have an invoice with a full page of parts!) but they didn't do either of the awful 95510632350 or 94810603551 as I suspect it was deemed "too difficult" and they probably "looked OK"!

While they're in there again, are there any other pipes etc, on the back of the engine they should look at.

I'm tossing up a starter motor also, as the car is a 2003 with over 220,000km on it, so I can't complain really I guess.

There's estimating about $1250 this time (all parts and labour at "trade").

I'm not expecting any further "goodwill" from them or Porsche Cars Australia though, especially as they saw fit to refuse the warranty claim on the spoiler on my 996 turbo as it was 2 weeks out of warranty!

(The salesman always wonders why I never buy any cars from him!)

Thanks for your input!

DS

Would you believe I got into the car this morning, and it all seems to be working correctly now?!?!?

The only thing I did differently was I used the "clear errors in all modules" function of Durametric (just under the short test all modules menu item).

However I still suspect the A/C control unit. My car is a 2003 and the unit is original.

Is the control unit the same as the unit with the switches and temp displays on it, just above the ashtray?

That's a relief that thing just pops right out....

Thanks

DS

Yeah I'm 6'2" so it's a real struggle to get under the dash for me, even with the seat all the way back.

As per my other post, I'll have to wait till the week after next to have a go at it, as I've got a road trip coming up, so I don't want any drama's while I'm miles away from civilisation.

If I get it out, I'll take some pictures and add them to the support topic for your DIY.

Cheers!

DS

Hi

I ran through the "output test" feature of durametric for the A/C module.

I figured out what the 4 display fields are.

1 (top) is the upper limit of the servo/device. 2 is the actual current value. 3 is the value the software is sending and 4 (the bottom) is the lower value possible for that servo/unit.

I can see that for the faulty servo's the software is trying to send various values to the unit, however the unit is "stuck" on a particular value, generally around 70, which is almost half way through the range.

So this now begs the question, is it normal for so many servo's to fail (there appears to be about 6), or is there a fault in the a/c controller (it appears to be working and is happy to communicate with the software and execute functions where it can.

The only thing I want to fix first is my Kessy (see my other post). It's going to be a job to remove it, and next weekend I'm going on anout a 700km round trip (bit of beach driving too!), so I'm going to wait till I get back to fix that. That will at least rule that causing a problem, but my CAN bus (gateway) is not showing any errors, and communicates just fine with the software.

If I get stuck where I'm going I be 350km from anyone who can help.

Happy for any oppinions on the multiple servo failures....

Thanks

DS

I did try using the testing function of durametric, but I was unclear as to what the various numbers displayed meant.

I asked durametric, and they said they couldn't tell me? and that I should refer to the Porsche procedure?

I understand what you mean though, so I'll have another go at it.

I have the service manual, but group 8 (HVAC) doesn't seem to cover troubleshooting, only removal and replacement.

I'll work through the various servo's and see if I can fault them.

I'm sure having the Kessy out of action is not helping....

Thanks again

DS

Thank you, I'll give it a try.

It's the big wiring harness that is really stopping me, but I'll persist.

Thanks again!

I had this error once when I accidentally "activated" the transmission control unit when I was mucking around with some wiring installing my dension gateway.

Initially I crapped myself, but the error cleared on the next restart.

A durametric scan will definately help, my problem was that as the module was awake, the transmission was not and it was complaining that the transmission wasn't there.

Cleared the codes and never had a problem since.

But it's definately the car saying there's a problem.

If you post your error someone here will be able to help.

Cheers

DS

What surface are you driving on?

If it's boggy sand I can tell you from experience that the traction control in the cayenne BLOWS CHUNKS on boggy sand.

It robs power right at the point when you need it the most, ie it doesnt allow enough wheel spin/slip to be effective in sand.

Unlike thue range rover etc that have a sand setting. That setting allows more wheel slip before reducing the power.

It's the strangest sensation having your foot to the boards, and the engine is just idling which you slowly sink into the sand....

Cheers!

DS

I had a similar problem but I was getting the camshaft angle implausable error (0021 from memory).

I switched to shell helix ultra 5W40 from mobil 1 5w40 and problem solved!

Car runs heaps better on Helix than mobil 1.

The cam timing seems to be really sensitive to oil types, a bit like mitsubishi's too.

Thanks

DS

Thanks

Could you elaborate on how I might do that (isolate each module).

Can I just pull a fuse? or do you mean pull out the control panel (with the temp displays) and disconnect them one at a time?

Thanks

DS

UPDATE

I reset the gateway by pulling the fuse, waiting 10 s and putting it back in, and was able to communicate with it via durametric.

It is not showing any errors at all.

The air cond module is still showing multiple flap servo errors (same as in the second section of my post) but is no longer showing the 1336 and 1299 errors.

I also checked the voltage across my battery (at the jump terminals in the engine bay). With the car turned off it's showing 12.47V, so that seems ok. The battery is about 3-4 years old but when I replaced it last time I put in a really expensive Varta AGM battery, which should last a bit longer than a lead acid job.

Thanks

DS

Hello again.

My air cond has gone mad. It is only blowing cold air (regardless of the temp setting) on the right side of the front (driver's side here). As a consequence it blows really hot air through the left in an attempt to get the cabin temp correct, which annoys my wife no end!

Curiously this all started about the time I changed the cabin air filter (it was totally blocked solid).

I'm getting heaps of errors from durametric. If I clear the error codes a few remain but they all generally come back after a day or two.

The rear air cond is working fine (depsite the errors that seem to suggest otherwise).

Also note my Kessy is stuffed (see my other post) but it's been stuffed since before this all started happening. (I assume this is the error 1336?).

I assume there's a hot/cold left/right servo that's gone and this is causing on-flowing problems. Also I'm note sure what the Gateway error is (1299). There are no error codes on the gateway when I scan it. Can anyone assist with a diagnostic procedure?

The durametric transcript is below. Vehicle is a 2003 turbo with rear air cond option (obviously!).

Thanks!

DS

Air Conditioning Module Identification Part Number 11Diagnoss Number Current Fault Codes 711Servo motor for footwell flap left 713 Servo motor for central vents left 1810 Drive motor for temperature valve right 1596 Servo motor for fresh-air/air circulation flap 712 Servo motor for footwell flap right 710 Servo motor for defrost flap 1336 CAN comfort OFF No signal/communication

1299 Gateway Please read out fault memory

2599 Temperature flap servo motor rear left 2597 Rear left air vent on tunnel

362 Servo motor for volume air flow flap rear left 2600 Temperature flap servo motor rear right 363 Servo motor for volume air flow flap rear right After clearing the faults the following remain... 711 Servo motor for footwell flap left 1810 Drive motor for temperature valve right 1596 Servo motor for fresh-air/air circulation flap 2599 Temperature flap servo motor rear left 362 Servo motor for volume air flow flap rear left 363 Servo motor for volume air flow flap rear right