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darrinsmith

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Posts posted by darrinsmith

  1. Hello

    After reading clarksongli's excellent tutorial on fixing a broken Kessy, I was finally motivated to fix mine.

    However I can only find information relating to LHD cars.

    On a RHD car, the Kessy is located on the firewall side (not the centre) of the vehicle. Porsche have simply moved the entire dash assembly to the right of the car, and not "mirror imaged" it, which makes sense from a $$ point of view.

    However, this places the kessy (and the module in front of it) directly above the main vehicle wiring harness that runs up to the dash, through the firewall to the engine, and down the side of the car.

    I spend about an hour trying to work the Kessy unit past this massive wiring harness but with no luck.

    I simply cannot see how it can possibly be removed without removing the main wiring harness.

    Here's a picture of my dilemma...

    post-8847-0-90093500-1366253135_thumb.jp

    You can see the smaller wiring harness with 5 into 1 wires, and them the massive main harness directly underneath it.

    The smaller oval shaped connector to the right is the Kessy power supply.

    I could disconnect the cables from the 5-1 harness (although I have no idea what the module is in front of the Kessy and whether I should disconnect the battery before I do it), but even then, there would not be enough room to side the Kessy down to remove it from it's holder.

    Can anyone help with specific instructions for a RHD vehicle, or give me any tips.

    Thanks!

    DS

  2. I just did my pipes using the Forge Motorsport kit. Nice price!

    Their pipes come with what they call "jubilee clips" which we call hose pipe clamps, that clamp the pipe to the billet fittings.

    I found that if you have this type of setup, you need to install the clamp right back as far as you can for the upper pipes where they pass through the firewall.

    In hindsight it would have been easier to use the kind of clips that the samco hoses use, as the hose pipe clamp screw can foul the firewall if you put it too close to the billet fitting.

    The right-hand upper hose was particularly difficult to get in the right place.

    I also did not need to remove my wheels or the wheel arch lining, only jack up the car (use the centre support NOT the engine casing and put car on jack stands), so this saved a lot of time.

    I also took the opportunity to install my Agengy Power dual flow air box too!

    Here's the end result..

    post-8847-0-23915500-1362108195.jpg

  3. Cayenne Valve Body Replacement DIY


    Hello Everyone. Please find my first tutorial submission. Replacing the Valve Body (aka valve chest) in a 2003 Cayenne Turbo Symptoms: Very harsh shift from 1-2-3 when under load (like getting rear ended by a truck) Hesitant shifts and flaring when driving normally. "Clunky" shifts. Vehicle has travelled around 210,000km. Fluid has never been changed (dealer said is was not necessary-which is not true!) After doing lots of reading it seemed like the valve body (VB) was the likely culprit

     

  4. Hi Hilux2400

    Disconnecting or changing the battery on 996's should not mess anything up.

    The only thing you really need to reset is the windows.

    You just wind the window all the way up and then hold the switch for 4-5 seconds to re-set the upper limit. It's actually in the owner's manual from memory.

    Also if you have a PCM you'll need to let the car "equilibrate" in open sky for 10-15 minutes. Again this is also in the manual.

    If your transmission is going into limp home then you may have a bigger problem. In that case you should get the durametric software.

    It'll only take one job to pay for itself.

    Cheers from Oz

    DS

  5. I just got my valve body back from Revmax. Should reinstall this weekend hopefully.

    It's 38oC here at the moment, and my garage is like an oven, so I'm waiting for it to cool a little.....

    I've been taking pictures for a DIY also. Disasembly was surprisingly easy, abeit a little messy.

    Mental note unlike an engine oil change you want to wait till the trans has cooled overnight and the fluid drained down. The valve body holds a couple of litres of fluid.

    My trans is at 210,000 km, the fluid was black :-( magnets weren't that bad, I've seen pictures of some that look like chia pets!

    Local dealer has NEVER done a fluid change! The parts guy confirmed they had never ordered or sold a trans filter! WOW...

    Stay tuned for DIY with pics....

  6. The ctt can use a lot of oil. When my wife drives it, I will have to top up quite a bit, also the left hand pressure hose recycles oil mist, so if the seal is bad it will leak a heap of oil and cause ou to have to top it up a lot.

    I fixed the seal recently and there was about a litre of oil in the lower hose!

    Like loren none of my previous 8 p cars have ever used oil between changes. Even our current 996 turbo doesn't use a drop between services, and I know the wife drives that hard! You can't miss that whistle.

    just the cayenne turbo. It makes sense when you see how it deals with oil vapor through the left hand turbo.

    Don't be concerned, just change you oil regularly. My ctt is at 230000 km and still goes well.

    I can't be bothered changing it cause it runs so well.

    cheers

    DS

    • Upvote 1
  7. I switched to shell helix ultra 5w40 at about 140000km. The engine was a little rough at higher revs on Mobil 1.

    Vehicle is now at 221000km and the engine runs smooth as silk.

    I change oil and filter every 10000km. Helix ultra is on the approved list I'm fairly sure.

    I understand that it's important to use an approved oil especially for the turbos as it has low ash. On the cayenne the engine oil vapor is recycled through the right hand turbo. I recently fixed the seal on the pipe and there was about a liter (no joke) of oil in the pipe! All of which had been through the turbo at some point. (note: draining the pipe is now on my 10000 km service work list).

    I still use mobil 1 in my 996tt though. The cayenne seems much more fussy with its oil. The 996 not so.

    A mechanic friend of mine who does a lot of Mitsubishis told me the newer ones with variable valve timing are also very fussy about the grade of oil and run a bit rough if it's not the correct viscosity.

    The weather is gets really hot here (Christmas day was 40oC) but a 5w50 is way too "thick" for the cayenne's valve timing gear, and there's no need for a zero winter grade as we never get much frost in winter, and definitely no snow!

    Cheers!

    DS

  8. HiI'm in the process of replacing my valve body and need to get some fluid.The Mobil Australia fluid selector shows either Mobil ATF 3309 or Mobil synthetic ATF.Any thoughts on using the synthetic? As there will still be a small amount of residual "old" ATF in there.Otherwise I'll go the Toyota t-IV fluid perhaps as the Mobil is special order only in Perth....ThankDS

    ---Edit---

    Just spoke to the Mobil distributor here in Perth, they only bring in 3309 in 20 litre lots.

    The reason he told me was that they sell that exact fluid to Toyota who re-sell it in 1 litre lots as their type IV fluid.

    There is an exclusive arrangement between Mobil and Toyota here so that only Toyota can sell that fluid in 1 litre lots.

    So there you go.....

    --Edit#2---

    Just for a laugh for all you readers, just priced 1 litre of trans fluid from local dealer AUD$63.60 and that is "trade" price. (1AUD is roughly 1 USD at the moment!)

  9. The Denison will always produce this error as it does not fully emulate the factory phone module. I have a Denison in my cayenne tt and a mobridge in my 996tt. The mobridge doesn't make the error and the phone book works with iPhones. The Denison can't load the phone book from an iPhone. The sound quality on the mobridge is also far superior to the Denison.

    The only thing the Denison does better IMHO is that it remembers the "shuffle" or random track sequence on the iPod between power cycles. The mobridge reverts back to "normal" track sequence even when you switch between radio and iPod.

    And of course the Denison is marginally cheaper, but not by much.

    I hope this helps!

    Cheers

    DS

  10. Thanks, but I need to be able to show them how the top goes.

    It doesn't look right, particularly the way it goes around the metal arm.

    Unfortunately Perth is a small city, and unless you drive a Ford or a Holden (GM for our American friends) then no one really wants to touch it. You can also count the number of Motor trimmers (that's what we call them) on one hand.

    The dealer also says they can't recommend anyone.

    My wife's Aunty makes curtains, so I'm sure she could repair it, but it would really help to be able to see exactly how it goes together and what attaches to what.

    Thanks!

    DS

  11. Hello and Merry Christmas from down under!

    My 2004 Cab's (it's a turbo but should be the same as regular cabs?) internal lining is all messed up around where the main support arm folds.

    It looks like someone's had a go at it before and mucked it up.

    It doesn't look right, and there's a loose flap of material that hangs down and is always getting caught in the folding arms.

    It just came back from the dealer after they replaced the drive mechanism, but they didn't remove the top, and they don't want to fix it, only replace the entire lining.

    the rest of the lining and top is in good condition, so I was wondering if a handy cab owner (same model year) would be able to post some pictures of how all the bits of fabric go together and how they are mounted and work around the folding steel arm.

    I have the workshop manual but the diargams are very unclear, and there have been several revisions over the years.

    I've posted some pictures below so you can see the trouble I'm having. It's the same on BOTH sides of the car.

    Thanks again!

    Darrin Smith

    post-8847-0-71009700-1356312222_thumb.jp

    Here's the lining as it is with the roof closed. You might be able to see the bit of lining laying toward the rear.

    post-8847-0-04383300-1356312249_thumb.jp

    Here's me holding the loose bit of material up towards the rear.

    post-8847-0-46694100-1356312316_thumb.jp

    Again me holding the loose material up toward where I think it should go.

    post-8847-0-40237300-1356312357_thumb.jp

    A close up of the lining showing the loose flap again laying on the roll over bar.

    post-8847-0-10720200-1356312339_thumb.jp

    Here's how I think it should be? attached to the other bits of material? but I'm not sure how it all works around the metal arm, I think the velco bits are all wrong.

  12. Ok had a productive session with a friendly tech today.

    As I suspected the correct way to code the unit is.

    1) Disable mobridge using the toggle switch.

    2) connect PIWIS and go into the PCM.

    3) in the next available slot (#3 on my car) code the phone module.

    4) do not code a CDC if one is not already fitted to the car (as in my case) the PCM will automatically find the mobridge and install it as a CDC.

    5) allow PCM to reboot. It will display the "system error phone not found".

    6) click "OK" using the right hand selection wheel

    7) while the car is still switched on, re-enable the mobridge using the 5 toggle method on the toggel switch.

    8) PCM will then find the phone module and the ipod (CDC) after a few seconds.

    9) pair phone and connect ipod...enjoy...

    • Upvote 1
  13. Hello!

    I (aka the dealer) is having trouble activating the phone module on my PCM to allow my newly installed mobridge to show up.

    So I was wondering if someone could post the actual procedure?

    Here's the background...

    Firstly and most importantly, car is a MY2004 996tt cab with PCM. Now it is a ROW (Australian) car, which means that while the PCM has the telephone buttons on it, the phone, sim draw AND phone prep (which I believe is fitted standard in the US) is NOT present in this car. It also does NOT have the CDC. (mainly cause they were both $2K options!).

    I have the same setup in my cayenne but it runs a dension GW500/BT module.

    Mobridge (w/bluetooth) is installed and the CD/ipod is working fine.

    Dealer did manage to get it working before, but it took them hours (I paid!) cause they are basically clueless with anything other than an oil change. They however removed the mobridge and my smarttop unit while they were doing a repair due to "problems" they were having with thier PIWIS.

    The car has just come back after having some roof components replaced. I waited 3 (yes three) weeks for them to figure out how to calibrate the roof with the new system tester. They told me there is a worldwide software fault with the new Panasonic based system that prevents the roof calibration from completing (more likely they just don't have a clue, this is also after Porsche screwed my on my rear spoiler repair because I was 10 (ten) days out of warranty when it was identified, even though it had been leaking for months, but I digress.....)

    Anyway on my cayenne the procedure for the dension was really easy, install unit, and while it is active (not in service bypass mode) go into the PIWIS, into PCM, into MOST ring actual devices, and add "phone" to the next available slot.

    Reboot car, and tada! phone module working....

    However the mobridge seems much more invasive than the dension, so they struggle with it.

    My questions are

    1) should the unit be in bypass while trying to program the phone module (I assume this was the problem last time as the unit was NOT in bypass and it was screwing with thier PIWIS).

    2) They also tried to code the CDC, but I beleive this is unneccesary. The head unit seems to be able to figure it out itself given the fact the ipod is working fine at the moment as a CDC.

    3) Should the phone be coded to the next availble slot in the ring, or do we need the leave a space for the CDC? I assume again next available slot, and the CDC will sort itself out.

    4) I believe a lot of the issue thay are having is cause they just don't know how to drive the new system tester, and they are learning at my expense, and yes there is no other dealer within a 3000km radius!

    5) once phone is coded, shut down car, reactivate mobridge and re-start car?

    I would appreciate any tips or tricks anyone can provide.

    BTW just priced a cabin air filter, AUD $98 (about US$101) I told them to shove it and bought it from pelicans for $19. (This is what I have to work with.....)

    Thanks again!

    Darrin Smith

  14. I guess the topic says it all. I have a 2003 cayenne turbo with the CD based PCM 2.1 (with Bose audio).

    Porsche Australia are not producing any map updates for the CD based cars, only the DVD based cars, so my map is stuck at 2004.

    When you live in the fastest growing area of Australia, that's a problem.

    Can anyone comment if it is possible to add the NAV drive from a wrecked later model car (say a 2005) and connect it to the old PCM.

    I assume the NAV drive connects to the MOST ring, and then would require the dealer to code it to the ring with the PIWIS?

    Alternatively, if I can get a complete later model unit with the drive, can I retrofit that with the old BOSE gear.

    I use my car a lot for visiting clients, so having a working NAV is a real necessity for me.

    Thanks!

    DS

  15. Hi

    I got this response from Mobridge, looks like it's the PCM in the 996's. Bugger.

    "Your car is actually the culprit here. On startup, disc change, manual track incrementing etc, the PCM turns off random. It's impossible to tell if the user has pressed the button or the radio is doing this because all our unit gets told is to turn random off. Dension may have put some trickiness in for this or maybe the PCM in the 2004 is doing this. The PCM in the 911 is vastly different to the Cayenne version even though functionally they do act the same way."

    Oh well, it's worth the trade off for the mobridge's far superior telephone sound and functions, as I use the phone in the car a lot...

    Cheers from down under!

  16. Hi

    I finally got around to installing a mobridge ipod/bluetooth in my 04 996 turbo with PCM. The car is a ROW so I had to get the dealer to activate the phone module on the PCM but now it's all working fine.

    The only really super annoying thing is that every time you restart the car, the unit forgets the "random" track order setting on the ipod (it's a supported nano).

    I also have a cayenne turbo with a dension GW500 and it is quite happy to remember the random setting with the same ipod.

    I've flashed the latest firmware, so now I'm not sure whether this is normal for the mobridge unit (I hope not cause it a serious flaw) or whether it's just a difference between the PCM in the 996 and the cayenne.

    Having said that the mobrdige phone module blows the dension one out of the water (no phone not present erro, phone book loads in the PCM with an iphone, sound is ultimately superior).

    Any 996/PCM/mobridge owners to comment on this one?

    Thanks

    DS

  17. Hi,

    I have had some brand new 18" sport techno wheels fitted to my 2004 996 turbo cab.

    The car was in an accident and the insurer insisted that I had to have no larger than 18" genuine Porsche wheel to replace the old Gemballa 18's which were damaged in the accident and were no longer available.

    So I got them to fit a complete brand new set from Porsche! (nice).

    They have only been on the car about 3 months, but I am having constant issues with the metal valve stems leaking air.

    It has been to the tyre shop several times, and the latest shop (they are actually clients of mine) took the tyre off the wheel and showed my how the valves fit.

    Bascially the rubber seal on the inside of the valve is prone to leaking. We cleaned up the seal and re-seated it (there was a small amount of corrosion that had rubbed off the inside of the wheel), and tightened the outer retaining nut as much as we dared, but it's still leaking, especially if you put any sideways pressure on the valve stem.

    I've never had this problem before, so I'm a little stumped as to how to proceed. I assume the valves came with the wheels?

    Can anyone suggest what I can do?

    Thanks

    DS

  18. Ended up getting the inno boardlocker 745. This is an awesome product, and only required minor modification (2 x longer bolts) to fit the cayenne's racks.

    Got it from Amazon, you can see my review there.

    Here's the link to it.. http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Mount-Locking-Surfboard-Truck/dp/B00120MXNY/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329788947&sr=8-1-fkmr0

    Really recommend it!

    (not affiliated with Inno or Amazon).

  19. Thanks Mike,

    The magnet is still in the plastic bit that you screw on, and the car "knows" the hose is connected (Red warning on the dash board).

    So the reed switch must be working.

    I guess they must have disconnected something when they put the compressor in a bit further down the chain perhaps...

    I'll just have to crawl under this weekend and have a look.

    Thanks

    DS

  20. Hi everyone.

    I recently had some trouble with the compressor on my 2003 turbo with air suspension. I had the local shop replace the compressor with an aftermarket unit and everything is fine and working as is should, except I went to use the spare tyre filling hose the other day (to help out an old lady with a flat tyre) and it didn't work. (of course after I have boasted about how great it was to have a compressor built into your car!).

    I connected the hose to the filling point as normal, and the red "spare tyre filling" warning came up on the dash board as normal, but the compressor doesn't kick in, and there is no pressure at the filling point under the seat.

    The funny thing is, that you can manually press in the little nipple in the filling point itself and get a momentary "phsst" of air but then nothing. The hose is not damaged or blocked either.

    The air suspension is working correctly, and the compressor will kick in as required and the accumulator tank is holding air properly. I also confirmed there are no error codes with Durametric.

    I assume there must be a valve located somewhere in the line that is not working (ie not allowing air to pass through), can anyone give me any guidance as to what I should be looking for and where it is located). From the looks of it it is underneath the car rather than the seat itself?

    Car is RHD, if that matters.

    Thanks again!

    DS

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