darrinsmith

I got asked once if my 996 cab was a Nissan?!?!?

Most people don't have a clue unless you're a boy aged 7-13 then they know!

<off topic>Most people think my wife's cayenne turbo is a Kia! It's not a F*&$ing Kia!</off topic>

Cheers

DS

I've ordered the durametric software. I might use the real-time data features to see if it can pin-point anything.

I still suspect the idle valve, I might see it I can find one at the wreckers to look at.

Thanks!

Happy Easter! I'm off camping in the Cayenne! no phones!

Cheers

DS

Sorry I forgot to mention, I did re-install the valve and there was no improvement at all.

Hi

Well I cleaned the idle valve, it was quite dirty. I noticed that at rest (ie disconnected and removed from the car) the valve is about 1/4 to 1/3rd open.

When you push the valve open even more with a screwdriver, you can definately feel the resistance of it's (I guess) internal spring.

When you release the valve it closes (snaps back) all the way, but there is no resistance to opening the valve back to about 1/4ish open. You can just shake the valve at it opens by itself.

Also the valve ball itself appears quite worn, it has kind of groove like scoring marks in the metal half-ball inside the valve (visible by just looking at the right-hand port).

This definantely seems like it might be faulty.

Can anyone comment on whether the valve should be fully closed at rest and whether this lack of valve tension to the 1/4ish opening is normal.

Is there a way to test it electrically?

Also in answer to the fuel question, I only use 98RON fuel. If it was a fuel problem I would have expected it to show under hard accelleration, but the car goees like the wind with the foot to the boards!

There are lots of threads here on repairing your top if you do a search

Tried the search again, and got a few more answers this time (I was too specific with my terms before).

Lots of Boxster articles, it seems the best (and only) option apart from complete replacement is to remove the top and get a new window sewed in.

So that's what I'll do.

Thanks

DS

Hi,

I have a 1999 996 cabrio with plastic window.

The window itself is in really good condition, but the glue along the bottom edge is starting to fail, so the window is starting to come away from the top along that lower join. Luckily the seal is still mostly watertight and it doesn't rain much here in Perth.

I notice in the factory repair manual, there is a procedure for replacing the plastic window, (looks very complicated/time consuming and needs special tools.)

The fabric top itself is in excellent condition (for it's age), so I don't really want to change the whole thing if possible.

I also don't really like the glass window conversions, as the window is too small, and the freight to Australia is eye-watering.

So I really would like to know if anyone has sucessfully repaired the glued seams around thier plastic window?

I was thinking if I used hot glue to re-glue the seam and then clamped it until it was dry?

I only expect to have this car for another year and a half, so I don't want to spend big bucks on replacing a perfectly good roof if I don't have to.

Thanks in advance for your input!

DS

Try cleaning the idle valve as well. My 99 was surging at idle. Not exactly the same symptoms as your but it's an easy DIY and worth a try. It cleared up my problem in my non e gas 99 C2 and didn't cost a dime.

Hi cleaned the throttle body (it wasn't that dirty anyway). No change I'm afraid.

Any other ideas?

the dealer checked the MAF sensor and said it was working fine.

Thanks

Darrin Smith

Idle valve. Refer to my last post

Hi

The car idles perfectly. However I will give it a go anyway.

Where is the valve located? Do you just use throttle body cleaner?

Thanks

DS

Try cleaning the idle valve as well. My 99 was surging at idle. Not exactly the same symptoms as your but it's an easy DIY and worth a try. It cleared up my problem in my non e gas 99 C2 and didn't cost a dime.

Hi cleaned the throttle body (it wasn't that dirty anyway). No change I'm afraid.

Any other ideas?

the dealer checked the MAF sensor and said it was working fine.

Thanks

Darrin Smith

Hi everyone.

My 1999 3.4l Tiptronic cab has started having on odd problem.

When cruising along at steady speeds, (just feathering the throttle) the engine is surging (ie the tachometer moves up and down across a band of about 300 rpm or so), you can feel it as well.

The car is fine under moderate to heavy throttle, and idles perfectly.

It got serviced yesterday and the dealer reprogrammed/re-adapted the ECU and said it was fixed, but it's not.

The car is definately not mis-firing and there were no error codes in the ECU (they initially suspected a faulty MAF).

I suspect it is a transmission problem (ouch) car has (only!) 130,000 km (about 81,000 miles) as the shifting is sometimes a little hesitant and sometimes it's can't seem to decide which gear it should be in.

I've seen others with similar complaints, but no real resolution.

Unfortunately the dealer here is a bit of a sausage factory, they don't really give the techs time to work on the cars, they don't even test-drive them any more, and charge a fortune.

I have had the transmission fluid checked about 50K km ago, but I might get it changed to be sure.

I'd appreciate any iother deas from the group.

Thanks

Darrin Smith

Do a search on the board for coolant pipes, I dont think there is a tsb just a part improvement

Need new hoses for (out of warranty) my C TT . Hoping that the dealer will help with part of the cost for replacement. I can't find the detailed info on this TSB. Thanks ahead.

Sorry no TSB as stated above just a part improvement. All the plastic hoses are replaced with aluminium ones.

It's a big and costly job. I just had it done along with the water pump and thermostat housing. Cost just shy of $6K (AUD).

Dealer just said bad luck, you pay.

Sorry for the bad news.

I paid like $780 for parts and like $500 for labor my friend did it for me you have to remove the intake its on the bottom

I had every hose replaced plus the water pump and other stuff. Parts alone were almost $2K. It doesn't help that the dealer here is a A**hole who charges labout at $265 per hour and 100% markup on parts :-( plus we only have one dealer in this state, and only one other independent as competition. The next nearest dealer is over 3500 km away!

If you can do it yourself you'll definately save money but if one hose has cracked, you might like to replace as many as you can while you've got the car apart.

However if anyone knows of any aftermarket mods that can accomplish this then I would really like to know.

Maybe start with some proper tires and the correct tire pressures. I think you'll notice a huge difference in what the Cayenne can do.

I was running 18PSI anyway. I didn't want to run any less, our traveliing companion in the Lexus was unfortunate enough to pop the bead on one of his front tyres (he went down to 12 PSI which was probably a little too low).

Off road tyres wouldn't make much difference in this type of sand, if anything the agressive tread pattern tends to dig you in even more.

Anyway, it was still a blast and I have more adventures planned.

Cheers

DS

Do a search on the board for coolant pipes, I dont think there is a tsb just a part improvement

Need new hoses for (out of warranty) my C TT . Hoping that the dealer will help with part of the cost for replacement. I can't find the detailed info on this TSB. Thanks ahead.

Sorry no TSB as stated above just a part improvement. All the plastic hoses are replaced with aluminium ones.

It's a big and costly job. I just had it done along with the water pump and thermostat housing. Cost just shy of $6K (AUD).

Dealer just said bad luck, you pay.

Sorry for the bad news.

Hi everyone,

I have just returned from my first real off-road holiday with my 2003 Cayenne Turbo. I am hapy to report that (on standard 18" rims with road tyres - Pirelli P zeros!!!!) the car performed fantastically, surpassing my exectations, and really surprising our travelling companions (driving a Lexus LX470 ie Landcruiser 100 series and a Toyota Hilux). The ground clearance and approach angles are second to none, easily traversing muddy slippery rock that had many other "real" 4WD's stuck.

The only problem occured in really boggy sand (keep in mind I was towing a camper trailer that weighed almost 1.5 tonnes!). When trying to get up a steep hill, you need lots of momentum.

Unfortunately when the wheels start to slip, you need to apply a little more power. The cayenne unfortunately reduces the power to limit the wheel spin. While this works great in mud and on rocks, in sand it causes you to lose momntum.

The end result is you get bogged two-thirds of the way up the hill. Not good when you have to get out and back down with a trailer attached. I understand there is no way to turn off the traction control.

However if anyone knows of any aftermarket mods that can accomplish this then I would really like to know.

I have posted a couple of pictures to this thread so you can see what we were doing. Word got around up and down the beach that some psyco had their Porsche down there. At one point we were cruising along the beach and went past a bunch of guys parked near the water. They gave us a really loud cheer. Some other interested campers from near by (including one real Porsche fan) made the trip to our camp on 4wd motorbike to take a look at the car.

For those who are interested we camped at a place called Alexander Point, about 100 or so km's east of Esperance, Western Australia (you can google earth it if you want). Access is only by beach driving, and you have to negotiate several rocky, steep headlands to get there, but the trip is worth it, it's a top camp spot with a really nice sheltered beach for swimming.

Cheers!

Getting the Trailer over some rocks, No Problem!

Down the Really Steep Sand Hill, Unfortunately this hill defeated us (traction control-GRRRRR!) on the way back.

The eye-popping beauty of Alexander Point with the eye-watering beauty!?!? of the cayenne!

Lunch on the beach at Isralite Bay (4 hours in and 4 hours out, quite a drive!)

Yep, She'll need a wash at some point.

Paused on the beach waiting for the rock crossing to become clear on the way back.

Thanks bigbuzuki.

Yes they've confirmed that it is the updated aluminimum pipe kit they are fitting.

I bought my car from a non porsche dealer, so no warranty, but it was heaps cheaper, so I guess I'm paying now!

Anyway, we're going on a big trip off road, so I can't afford a breakdown/overheat. Still plastic pipes in Australia, what were they thinking!

Plus they are going to fix the horns (they have BOTH failed) at the same time, so I won't have to roll down the window and give the bird anymore!

Cheers

Darrin Smith

I know i'm new, but in sand you still want your lockers on. My other car is a modded land rover, I off-road all of the time.

Yeah I agree

Perth is really sandy and I've done a lot of sand driving (mostly in the sand dunes at the beach), having the locks on will power you out of almost anything (assuming tyre pressure is correct and you have a decent run-up) I run about 18psi even on the 19" wheels. The sand here can get really soft, and is very fine.

The Cayenne will just stop in this type of stuff in "normal" 4WD mode. With the longitundinal locks on I was able to get up a hill that without the locks on I couldn't even get a third of the way up.

Anyway I just wanted to re-iterate how capable the Cayenne is off road. Before it, I had Jeeps, they were good, but the 4WD system was like something out of the dark ages compared to the cayenne's. It would belly out and then dig the back wheels in and then you were REALLY stuck! I know the last jeep I had ('06 WK Grand Limited 5.7) wouldn't do what the Cayenne can in sand.

Everyone's situation is different, so get on out there and have some fun! Just remember to take your recovery gear and a friend to help you dig :-) or better still another 4WD to pull you out!

Hi,

Car is in for a service, and I have noted the coolant level has been dropping a bit.

Mentioned it to the dealer. Got a call saying "you need you coolant pipes replaced. Cost AUD$1,600"

**** I think, "oh we also want to remove the manifold to check the water pump too, that'll cost you 2 hours labor"

"ok" I say.

This morning I get a call "yeah the water pump is on it's way out, total cost of job (including hoses) about $4,400 (AUD)"

I know I'm getting screwed but I though I read on this forum that the hose kit is an update with aluminium pipes rather than plastic, so I should specifiy they use that kit?

Man this really sucks, only two months ago I had to do the dreaded drive shaft ($3,500 AUD).

I guess vehicle is 2003, and Australia is a hot country that really stresses vehicle cooling systems. But still $4,400 sheesshhh. Unfortunately this is the only dealer in this state and I don't have much confidence the the other 2 independent workshops.

Thanks goodness the 911 runs like a swiss watch (touch wood!).

To engage low range, you

1 - Put the Cayenne to a complete stop (with the engine running)

2 - Step on the brake pedal (not sure if this is needed, just to be on the safe side)

3 - Put the transmission into neutral position ('N', this is MANDATORY to engage low range, NOT mandatory to engage the diff lock)

4 - Push the selector up once (for low range mode) or twice (for rear diff lock) or three times (for some additional and unnecessary stuff I don't have installed ;))

Third time is the longitudinal lock (locks front and rear together), one thing I have found that is *really* annoying is that if you should engage the PASM and traction control while the longitudinal diff's are locked it will "unlock" them.

I found this out the hard way when I had trouble getting up a really long steep sandy hill.

I would reverse back, engage all the diff locks then try to power up the hill. As the car started swaying a little in the sand tracks and losing traction, the PASM and traction control would engage and unlock centre diff, end result car slows down and gets bogged. Although you can turn off (mostly) the PASM, traction control cannot be disabled.

Took a few attempts to get up, but made it in the end. Although as far as I can tell, there is no way the car can put itself out of low-range, it's only when you go all the way to diff lock that the car can unlock itself. Unfortunately it doesn't give you any warning either (you just have to notice the little lights on the centre selector). I have confirmed that this is the correct behaviour for the vehicle.

I bet this is the problem you were having. BTW my car is a 2003 turbo, but I assume the controls and systems are the same in the later models.

Cheers

Darrin Smith

The fridge is rated 125W at 12V. That seems to only work out at about 10A (ie 125/12=10.416), however the caravan place insists that it needs a heavy duty draw directly from the battery.

The fridge is here http://www.dometic.com/enau/Asia-Pacific/A...uctdataid=68627

I'll give you a tip on Fosters, they export it cause no self-respecting Aussie would drink that rubbish! I can't even remember the last time I saw it for sale at a bar :-)

Thanks again!

Darrin Smith

Whats the amp rating of the fridge ?

don't Fosters make and adapter ;-)

Hi,

I am looking to add an auxilary 12v outlet to supply power to my camper trailer to power the refrigerator while towing with my 2003 Cayenne Turbo.

The trailer already has an Anderson plug setup (a large grey plug with 50A capacity) wired directly to the fridge which is located on the towing hitch next to the regular 7 pin round plug for stop lights brakes etc.

Normally these Anderson plug set-ups are connected directly to the towing vehicle's main battery (through the appropriate fuses and isolating relay to switch it off when the car is not running).

With the main battery being in such as painful location in these cars (under the seat-what were they thinking!), has anyone tried using the jump start terminals under the hood?

Otherwise has anyone done anything similar? The 20A outlets in the back do not supply enough juice to keep the fridge going, it will just melt the wiring.

BTW-For those of you who don't know what a camper trailer is go to www.jayco.com.au and click on camper trailers. (I think they are a peculiarly Australian invention, didn't see a single one on my recent coast-to-coast driving holiday of the USA!).

I am getting ready for a super Ozzie off-road driving holiday and want my beer to stay cold! When camped the fridge runs on gas so no battery drain there.

Thanks in advance for any input or ideas from the forum.

Cheers

Darrin Smith

Hi all

My wife has just acquired an 03 cayenne turbo (04MY to complement my 996 cab).

I have previously installed the nokia bluetooth kit into the 996 (pre MOST) and wired the phone mute to pin 3 on connector A. Bingo! radio mutes every time the phone is used-very convenient.

The PCM however is very stubborn. I have read various posts on this site and others (rennlist) that suggest that pin 3 on connector A will work also mute this unit when it is grounded

However I can't get it to work. I have eliminated the car kit my manually grounding pin 3, again no response from the unit.

One point is that this car does NOT have the phone module in the PCM, just a blank SIM drawer, and as far as I am aware no phone prep (it was always an option on euro/Australian spec cars). Also the unit is the early CD type, not the newer DVD type.

I suspect that the phone mute function might need to be "turned on" as is the case with some of the other becker head units. The mute does work from the multifunction steering wheel though, but I assume this is actuated via MOST.

Can anyone shed any light on this function as it is driving me mad!

Thanks

really ? mine doesn't !

1st is 1st, 2nd is 2nd;

there is always the spool up of the torque convertor when pulling off.

David

Hi,

The car got serviced yesterday and the dealer didn't mention ATF level was low (I forgot to mention this issue, but it's going back for some more work in a week or so).

I will try again using the manual select to second and see.

I suspect it is torque convertor. My jeep does something similar (but much less noticable) when it's torque converter "locks up".

I'll report back.

Thanks

Darrin

Hi I just wanted to finish off this post.

I got my Blaupunkt long beach 35 DVD radio yesterday and Ubermensch is correct. The blaupunkt radios are pin-for-pin compatible with the beckers (except for the telephone mute) from the factory. They just plug straight into the car's wiring harness. I only had to swap the tel mute pin from 2 to 3 on plug "A". Also the antenna just also plugs straight in. I also made some removal keys for the becker out of an old credit card! It worked great and it was very therapeutic to slice that thing up! This unit looks really nice too, I'm very happy with it.

Hello again everyone,

Since picking up my 99 996 cab several months ago I have noticed a wierd happening when the car is accelerating in 2nd gear.

I will try to describe it as best as I can, but it's a little strange and also it ONLY happens in second.

The car is a 99 996 cab with tiptronic. It had 50,000km (about 31,000 miles) on it when I bought it in late 2005 (it now has 58,500 km on it!!!!).

When accelerating the engine revs smoothly to about 2000 rpm when it then drops back a bit, as if the car was shifting gear again, then picks up an continues to rev until the transmission shifts up to third.

The best way I can decribe it is like there is a 2nd and a half gear that kicks in, or the torque convertor suddenly locking up fully.

It is really weird, only happens in 2nd regardless of how the car is being driven (ie half throttle or full throttle- although it is more pronounced when at full-throttle).

I assume because it only happens in 2nd that it is a transmission related issue rather than an engine issue. The transmission however shifts beautifully and is smooth and responsive the pedal inputs, there is however a notiable (about 1-1.5 seconds) gap between "tipping" the steering wheel rocker switches and the transmission shifting-but I assume this is normal, I recall my old 968 tiptronic was the same, even with a brand new transmission.

I suspect that the ATF level is not correct, as this car has been sitting for a long time prior to me buying it and even though it had only done 500km since it's last service almost a year previously, had low oil and water and also has a minor oil leak.

Anyway the car is due for a service soon so I will talk to the dealer about it and get them to check the ATF level and fix the oil leak, but I just wondered if anyone had any thoughts on it?

-As a side note this is a good example of how a low-milage car can disguise gremlins that have never been fixed or noticed before. My boxster on the other hand (with 180,000km on it) is serviced every 10,000km (about 3 times a year) and runs like a swiss watch, no oil leaks nothing, totally reliable.

Cheers

Darrin

Hello,

I am replacing the becker CDR-220 (the CD section has stopped working) with a blaupunkt long beach 35 dvd-radio.

I have upgraded a becker unit before in my boxster, but I have seen (read) people talking about wiring harnesses that plug into the car's wiring harness so you don't have to chop up the in-car harness when replacing the unit. (I will keep the CDR-220 so that the next owner can repair and retrofit if they wish).

I thought that Crutchfield audio was mentioned, but I e-mailed them and they didn't know what I was talking about.

Can anyone point me to a source of either an upgrade harness or a source of the connectors so I can fabricate my own harness? (I know all the pin assignments and what they do).

I understand that the connectors are a standard type, but I haven't had much luck finding them and the Australian becker distributor doesn't carry them.

(BTW I chose the Blaupunkt cause it's the neatest looking unit I could find, plus it has 4 pre-outs at 4V. My car is a 99 996 cabrio with the M460 amp and speakers and I wanted to retain as much of the OEM system as possible.)

Thanks for any assistance.

Darrin