Mijostyn

Hi JHop, It is not the battery or alternator. You most likely have a communications problem. Everything talks to everything through what Porsche calls a gateway module. This is done over a fiber optic bus system. When my 06 C4S went fruit loops it turned out to be a faulty PCM module. But the mechanic replaced the gateway module, the PASM computer and my instrument cluster before he finally figured it out. If the car runs and everything works as advertised when the car is on I would just hang back, drive the car and see how things develop. Hopefully at some point things will get bad enough that the problem will be easy to diagnose wasting less time and money. The car has default modes so it is not likely to leave you stranded although my car was stuck in track mode which made daily driving a bit rough. You will certainly need a tech with a PIWIS computer. You will be lost on your own. Just swapping parts out is a very expensive way to go with these cars.

Thanx JFP. It had to be something like that. The pressure jumps from 2 bar right up to 4 bar before the engine has gained 200 rpm. The car is so complicated it is scary. I have a 7 year 100,000 mile warranty on it. Finally did launch control last week. I did it twice and started to get sick. It pulls more Gs longer than any amusement park ride I can remember. I have no idea how that guy did it 50 times in a row.

Thanks JFP. He is a little weird about they way he explains some things but, what the hey. EXACTLY as I said. Raoult's law explains the very general but observed behavior of molecules as they interact with each other in solution. Ahsai is absolutely right. This author chose a solution of polar molecules. Our example is a solution of non polar molecules. Remember, I said the law only works with molecules of like behavior. He does mention that the law is most accurate when the concentration of the solute is very low which is exactly what we have in our example. The solute, fuel is max 2% in our solvent , the oil. There is no line between solvent and solute by the way. It is any substance in solution. The vapor pressure of the oil essentially remains exactly the same as it composes 98% of the solution. The equation at the top, the one I mentioned in my previous post works just fine. Yes, the law works best under ideal circumstances which the crank case of an engine is not as Ahsai mentioned but as a generality it explains the situation quite well. So, when you argue about a hypothesis it is time to do an experiment.My C4S has serially increasing fuel dilution. As time goes on more fuel is being added to the oil than boils off. (Measured by gas chromatography) so, everyone who is doing UOAs look back on your reports, plot your fuel dilution and tell us what you have. I will do the same experiment on my Turbo S. I should hit 3000 miles by the end of the Summer. (If I don't get arrested) Oh, JFP, I noticed something interesting with the oil pressure in the Turbo. Say I'm going 75 mph in 7th gear, revs about 2000 rpm. If I step hard on the gas, boost goes up and the oil pressure shoots right up before the revs go anywhere. How does it do that?? Is the oil pump being operated by a separate electric motor?.

Hey Lyn, I almost missed your post! You live in a very warm environment. I think the Motul Excess 5W 40 you are using is perfect. Your oil pressure is absolutely fine. Just because your oil pressure looks higher with thicker oil does not mean things are squirting any better. Your engine has oil passage ways and jets with holes of a specified diameter to work well with oils of a specific viscosity. The thicker the oil gets the harder it is to squirt which is why your pressure goes up with cold oil and oil of a higher viscosity. If the oil is too thick you may not spray stuff like your pistons as well! If you were just racing a car a 10W 50 oil would be OK as the oil temps are going to be much higher for a sustained period of time but you can't drive your car on the street like that. You can't change your oil too early, only too late. But, I think you could easily and safely go longer than 3500 miles. Our modern synthetic oils are very tough. The limiting factor is the fuel dilution. Just do serial oil analysis on your car every 3000 miles. It only costs about $25.00. Once your oil is 2% diluted you are done. In my car that happens by 6000 miles. The oil otherwise is in great shape. Just change your oil filter and send the oil in the filter housing to the lab, replace the filter and top your oil off, about 1/2 liter.

Fraid not. But you are probably right jl-c. Change your oil more frequently. If you want to know how frequent do serial UOAs on your car. All of the reliable references I have found recommend to change your oil at a fuel dilution of 2%. A good article on this is at www.machinerylubrication.com/Atricles/Print/1304 Hey JFP, miss me? ;-)Polaris uses Gas Chromatography. The Flame Ionization Detector is the gizmo used in the gas chromatograph to quantify the various fractions. A little hydrogen flame ionizes the molecules increasing the current through the detector. The time and duration identify the substance. What separates the substances is not their vapor pressure but the speed at which they pass through various mediums on their way to the FID. I finally remembered the name of the guy who got me into all this trouble, Francois-Marie Raoult. Raoult's law attempts to sort of quantify the interaction between varying molecules in solution. Don't get too dizzy when you read it. I only make it through the first couple of equations. In one sense I was wrong. There is a relation to vapor pressure but the effect is that it mostly averages out. This is only in solutions of like substances. As soon as you put polar molecules in nonpolar solutions or visa versa they just repel each other. Which is why the water boils off. Good thing too as I can't stand the thought of my engine rusting! Still hate that white crud on the oil filler cap. I looked into it, according to what I just read, Raoult’s Law applies at limiting low concentrations for non-volatile solutes. At higher concentrations or with volatile solutes, different compounds behave differently. Are you sure that is the correct reference? And no, I didn't miss you..................... :eek: Absolutely. Let us see if I can explain this correctly.The total vapor pressure of a solution of non polar molecules such as fuel in oil is, P = p*A XA + p*B XB + ........ P*A is the partial pressure of molecule A and XA is the mole fraction of that substance in the solution and so forth for molecules B, C and onwards. The individual vapor pressure of a given molecule is Pi = Pi* Xi . i is for the sake of the example fuel. Pi is the vapor pressure of fuel in the mixture. Pi* is the vapor pressure of pure fuel and Xi is the mole fraction of the fuel in the mixture. For simplification let's call the mole fraction the simple percentage of fuel in the mixture fuel in oil. This is actually quite close. In our example that would be 2%. Thus Xi is 0.02 and the vapor pressure of fuel is only 2% of the vapor pressure the fuel would normally have. This means that the fuel evaporates at such a slow rate that it is essentially inconsequential and as time goes on the fuel dilution just continues to increase as fuel is being added to the mixture much faster than it can evaporate. This is exactly what the labs are telling us and what my C4S has done, they just don't know why. The fact of the mater is that fuel does not just "flash off" regardless of temperature. That is just a myth based on a knee jerk comprehension of the problem. Unfortunately, it seems that this myth is believed by many people in important places that should know better. Then those of us that do not have the comprehensive background needed to understand this stuff are deluded into thinking that the myth is true. And away we go. These discussions are great stuff for all of us. They force use to review and rethink our beliefs in search of the truth not one ups man ship. None of us should feel stupid in the face of these discussions as none of us can learn absolutely everything about this universe. We all specialize in our own area of expertise. Come on JFP. I know you miss me.

I'm still buried in it Loren. We use all this stuff in medicine. What really is annoying is that my old brain is not near as nimble as it use to be. In my 20s I would see an equation and visualize immediately what it was telling me. Now things are not as immediate or clear. What is it that Einstein said about getting old? Something about you just get dumber?

Fraid not. But you are probably right jl-c. Change your oil more frequently. If you want to know how frequent do serial UOAs on your car. All of the reliable references I have found recommend to change your oil at a fuel dilution of 2%. A good article on this is at www.machinerylubrication.com/Atricles/Print/1304 Hey JFP, miss me? ;-) Polaris uses Gas Chromatography. The Flame Ionization Detector is the gizmo used in the gas chromatograph to quantify the various fractions. A little hydrogen flame ionizes the molecules increasing the current through the detector. The time and duration identify the substance. What separates the substances is not their vapor pressure but the speed at which they pass through various mediums on their way to the FID. I finally remembered the name of the guy who got me into all this trouble, Francois-Marie Raoult. Raoult's law attempts to sort of quantify the interaction between varying molecules in solution. Don't get too dizzy when you read it. I only make it through the first couple of equations. In one sense I was wrong. There is a relation to vapor pressure but the effect is that it mostly averages out. This is only in solutions of like substances. As soon as you put polar molecules in nonpolar solutions or visa versa they just repel each other. Which is why the water boils off. Good thing too as I can't stand the thought of my engine rusting! Still hate that white crud on the oil filler cap.

sp-design you just park it in the hot sun for an hour and the film comes right off. James, yes the old 3M stuff degrades over time. The Xpel is supposed to be better but up here in the north it is going to take a lot of abuse from stones and such which is the point. Better to mess up your film than your paint. the film on my speed yellow 06 C4S is looking pretty ratty. If I do not sell it next year I will have it done in Xpel. Clean paint increases the market value of the car so you get the money back in the end. fwiw - I bought a 2009 black 911C4S last year which had the front end covered with film (I think it was 3M) and it was quite badly dulled/yellowed after four or so years.

Excellent. I'll check with Polaris to see which method they are using, but no It does not contradict my theory which is really not my theory at all. I am just parroting what I learned. They are probably looking at the concentration of a specific molecule found in gas but not in oil. If you know the concentration of that molecule in both clean gas and clean oil then once you determine the concentration of that molecule in the "dirty" oil vapor you also now know what its concentration in the "dirty" oil is. They have to vaporize the mess for the test to work. I am not sure how inaccurate flash point analysis is but you are certainly not directly measuring fuel dilution. The other tests directly measure the concentration probably of specific molecules. I wonder how the various formulas the oil blenders use affect these tests as well as there may be some variation in gasoline composition. But, when I think about it all this is essentially null as I am sure Polaris used the exact same test on all my oil samples and there is an undeniable trend. The 1st sample at 1000 miles o.75 % diluted, the 2nd at 3000 miles 1.6 % diluted then at 6000 3.4% diluted. The fuel is certainly not vaporizing off faster than the oil is being diluted over a period of about 7 months!

Hey Offroad aehsani is right, just call Suncoast. Only a Porsche dealer can order the wheel. They are great with this stuff. But if the wheel is not cracked, just bent, it can be safely straightened. Rule of thumb is if the defect is not easy to see until you spin the wheel it can be straightened. If the defect is painfully obvious just looking at the wheel it is trashed. There is a gray zone in the middle. A crack always trashes the wheel. I feel your pain. I have black wheels on my C4S. Back then they used crappy paint on the wheels so eventually I had to have them all powder coated. One was bent a little but now you would never know. There are companies that true wheels all over the place. Another way some people deal with this is by getting a set of less expensive, easier to replace OZ wheels and put the originals in the attic for safe keeping. You can even get center lock wheels now.

It is funny how we develop these mythologies. Humans are funny creatures. When we do not know what is going on we make stuff up! Then the made up stuff gets a life and away we go. A good example is the gluten fad. I have to deal with this stuff every day. Most of the myths have some basis in reality. All substances have a vapor pressure which varies based on the nature of the substance and temperature. The molecules in gas as a conglomerate have a higher vapor pressure than the conglomerate molecules in motor oil. But, when you put them in solution together all bets are off. Think of it this way. Is the vapor in your crank case near as explosive as the vapor in a gas can. It does not take much gas vapor to cause quite the explosion! Hey jl-c, I just put Edge 5W 40 in the Turbo S. This is what Audi uses so I have a common oil with My wife's SQ5 for the time being. I plan to switch both cars to Millers after they hit 10,000 miles (broken in). That Porsche recommendation is only 1/2 right. Moisture (H2O) does indeed boil off as you heat up the oil but fuel does not. Once the oil is diluted with fuel it is permanent. If you look at the UOAs of my C4S as you get more miles the fuel dilution only increases in a linear fashion. By 6,000 miles the oil is diluted enough to lose a viscocity grade. So, I do not go longer than 6000 mile between oil changes in that car. Each car is different so, the only way to know what is going on with your car is to run serial UOAs until you have it figured out. Porsche's recommended oil change interval is more political than anything. You can go 10,000 miles but I wouldn't, at least not in my C4S. Millers is the absolute best as Luke's, mine and now Dus10R's experience shows. I am absolutely sure that wear rates fall off with this oil formulation. I'm not sure I can agree with your comments on fuel dilution. Nearly all the components in gas have considerably higher vapor pressures than water, so if the water is boiling off, the fuel should have preceded it. I think the issue may be how (the analytical technique) your UOA lab is measuring fuel dilution, they may be seeing accumulating fuel additive's that remain after the fuel actually flashed off, which would give the impression of increasing fuel dilution with time. It has nothing to do with vapor pressure JFP. It has to do with solubility and the polarity of the various molecules. I discussed this before when I explained fractional distillation. This is a mistake many people make. The UOAs are quite predictible in this reguard and reasonably accurate. Fuel does not boil off once it is desolved in oil. In order to separate it you have to heat it all up to 1000 degrees and catch the molecules as they condense. This is how oil refineries work. Non polar molecules attract each other in solution but repell polar molecules such as water. This is why the water boils off. I am going to have to look into this subject a bit deeper; I am find many references to the fuel dilution flashing off when an engine reaches both full operating temperatures, and some level of vacuum in the sump, and nothing (yet) to support your point. We will come back to this topic................. Anyway, Just call Millers oil in England. I bring up Millers because you can actually get to someone who knows what they are talking about and they can be most helpful. I doubt you will get the same treatment from Mobil or Shell.

Hey jl-c, I just put Edge 5W 40 in the Turbo S. This is what Audi uses so I have a common oil with My wife's SQ5 for the time being. I plan to switch both cars to Millers after they hit 10,000 miles (broken in). That Porsche recommendation is only 1/2 right. Moisture (H2O) does indeed boil off as you heat up the oil but fuel does not. Once the oil is diluted with fuel it is permanent. If you look at the UOAs of my C4S as you get more miles the fuel dilution only increases in a linear fashion. By 6,000 miles the oil is diluted enough to lose a viscocity grade. So, I do not go longer than 6000 mile between oil changes in that car. Each car is different so, the only way to know what is going on with your car is to run serial UOAs until you have it figured out. Porsche's recommended oil change interval is more political than anything. You can go 10,000 miles but I wouldn't, at least not in my C4S. Millers is the absolute best as Luke's, mine and now Dus10R's experience shows. I am absolutely sure that wear rates fall off with this oil formulation. I'm not sure I can agree with your comments on fuel dilution. Nearly all the components in gas have considerably higher vapor pressures than water, so if the water is boiling off, the fuel should have preceded it. I think the issue may be how (the analytical technique) your UOA lab is measuring fuel dilution, they may be seeing accumulating fuel additive's that remain after the fuel actually flashed off, which would give the impression of increasing fuel dilution with time. It has nothing to do with vapor pressure JFP. It has to do with solubility and the polarity of the various molecules. I discussed this before when I explained fractional distillation. This is a mistake many people make. The UOAs are quite predictible in this reguard and reasonably accurate. Fuel does not boil off once it is desolved in oil. In order to separate it you have to heat it all up to 1000 degrees and catch the molecules as they condense. This is how oil refineries work. Non polar molecules attract each other in solution but repell polar molecules such as water. This is why the water boils off.

Hey jl-c, I just put Edge 5W 40 in the Turbo S. This is what Audi uses so I have a common oil with My wife's SQ5 for the time being. I plan to switch both cars to Millers after they hit 10,000 miles (broken in). That Porsche recommendation is only 1/2 right. Moisture (H2O) does indeed boil off as you heat up the oil but fuel does not. Once the oil is diluted with fuel it is permanent. If you look at the UOAs of my C4S as you get more miles the fuel dilution only increases in a linear fashion. By 6,000 miles the oil is diluted enough to lose a viscocity grade. So, I do not go longer than 6000 mile between oil changes in that car. Each car is different so, the only way to know what is going on with your car is to run serial UOAs until you have it figured out. Porsche's recommended oil change interval is more political than anything. You can go 10,000 miles but I wouldn't, at least not in my C4S. Millers is the absolute best as Luke's, mine and now Dus10R's experience shows. I am absolutely sure that wear rates fall off with this oil formulation.

Up North I'm all for Black interiors, easy to keep new looking. Next black 911 get one with a red interior/black carpets or red and black two tone. VERY sharp!

5 seconds is the fastest I've seen. The manual will do 4.8. These times are for the S. Remember the Japs over rate their cars.

Hi Chirag, Sure beats an SUV doesn't it? Even the Cayenne turbo S. You don't want to display a Mercedes to Porsche Guys ;-) It is a good thing it is hers or we would not let you on the site. You like inflicting yourself with black cars. 911s are sharp in black. What's the interior?

You have to love these guys. I'll just get a copy from my mechanic the next time I see him which obviously won't be too far off. I just want to keep a copy of the bulletin with the car's service documents....for the record. This is why Porsche uses new stuff like these composite brakes on limited edition cars initially. If things screw up you limit the damage and with new technology like this, things always screw up. There have already been multiple revisions. However these brakes are worth the battle. They are better in every way except cost. They are better looking, they don't rust, they are wonderfully clean and they stop like CRAZY. It is always funny to watch a newbie drive the car. They always over cook the brakes throwing themselves against the seat belt. I never warn them :-)

Hey 63356, I just picked up a 2014 911 Turbo S and I had the whole front of the car, hood, fenders, lights and mirrors covered in Xpel. Not one single person including my mechanic has realized it was covered until I told them. The surface quality and clarity of the film are superior to 3M products. There are two down sides. It is more expensive than 3M film because the film costs 1/2 again as much and it is harder to install. When you cut a line into regular polyurethane film you can not tear the film beyond the cut. Xpel will not stop. It will keep tearing along a line of stress like paper. It is much easier to ruin a piece of expensive film during installation thus the price is increased to cover the added cost. Even the best installer will ruin a piece on occasion. I watched my car being done and the installer, Leonardo (no kidding) is a real artist. Autobahn obviously sends him to do the custom installs on cars like this. I do not think I could ever be as good at it. Leonardo cut everything free hand! I have never seen a steadier hand with a knife. Anyway, Xpel is much better looking than Clear Bra (3M), You can cover whole panels thus no lines. It is just as protective which takes a lot of the stress out of driving these beautiful cars. It is worth every cent. Over the life of the car it will save me hundreds of hours of work repairing chips and the car will hold its value better. Anyone buying a new 911 or a used one in excellent condition or reprinted is nuts not to have the car covered in this stuff. This is most definitely what I call a premier product. There is none better. Oh, and I use Rejex on the whole car Xpel included. This is the toughest most slippery, shiny, water repellent paint sealant I have ever used. It treats the Xpel just like the rest of the car. I do not see any reason why all of the paint sealant/ waxes would not work on Xpel but everyone should try Rejex. The only trick to Rejex is that once you wipe it on you do not want to let it sit more than a couple of minutes. It starts polymerizing immediately making it tough to rub out if you let it sit too long. You just do a section at a time. If you want the wax look just put the wax on over the Rejex.

Tails, do you have the Bose system?

RJN, Loren, Is it possible to display the actual document?? RJN have your ordered your Turbo S yet??

Thanx Loren! It is coming off tonight.

I just did a PIWIS search and it came back "not found". So it has ether just been released or has not been released yet. Have you asked your local dealer for a printed copy? No, but I will. Did not think about it when I picked the car up. The mechanic mentioned that he "found a bulletin on it." I have the clicking problem and Porsche is aware of it but apparently has not come up with a solution yet. They say the car is totally safe to drive. There is some tolerance issue with the spring loaded system that mounts the disc to the hub. I guess they plan to replace everyone's rotors once they figure it out. The only info I got was "the parts are not yet available" and "don't call us we'll call you."

Loren, Could you tell me how to get a hold of TSB WM465155??

Great Ogun. If you have not plugged a tire yet try practicing on an old tire. Just bang a nail into it. The reemer takes quite a bit of force you have to twist it as you push it into the tire. You want to have the plug ready to go on the insertion tool covered in rubber cement. When you pull the insertion tool out of the tire do it in one aggressive fast tug. Cut off the excess plug. You can drive on it immediately. Also, do not do this on a flat tire. You won't be able to push the reemer in. Inflate the tire first. It will hold air long enough. Once I had a tire cut by a piece of sheet metal. It made a slice 3/4 inch long. I had to use three plugs! And, it held air just fine. The plugs and cement age in time and become hard. I change them once yearly. Oh and never plug a side wall. Side wall injuries are always fatal.

Thanx Hobbes. Unfortunately, the 991 is a little different than the 996/997 cars but I suspect the mounting system is pretty similar. You have to be careful with the new cars as the Audi influence has taken over a lot of the construction details and techniques. As an example the gas door mechanism is totally Audi. The oil filter housing design is totally Audi. This is not a bad thing at all. The new car has a jewel like quality missing from the older cars. The interior design is much more cohesive ala Audi. But, the car goes ala PORSCHE! Just finished talking to the guys at Sound in Motion and they told me just to slip a plactic spatula in at the top and pop it straight outwards then up out of the dash. Will give it a try tonight.