Mijostyn

Has anyone removed the trim from their A pillar yet? I have to take mine off to mount a phone holder to it. I'm pretty sure it just pulls straight off, held on by spring clips no doubt. But before I break a $250 part I figured I might try to find someone with more experience than me which should not be hard as I have ZERO.

Actually, TPMS that gives you actual pressure readings is a good thing. I always checked my tire pressures twice monthly. Now I do not have too. Sometimes the car feels funny to me and a quick look at the TPMS rules out a tire leak. It is usually just road conditions. Running around with the wrong pressures ruins expensive soft tires fast. You can get fine sensors for 200 the whole set and they last 6-7 years. You do not have to remove the tire to change the sensors. You just use a bead breaker to break the bead and hold the tire out of the way while you change the sensor. You will have to rebalance the wheel. This is a federally mandated safety system and it is illegal to tamper with it. However like my clear marker lights I doubt anyone would turn you in for it be even if they noticed which they probably won't. Have fun trying to find someone with a PIWIS to turn it off.

I think the black center caps look best on a black wheel or at least with some black in them. You have to watch it. There are cheep knock offs which Are not made nearly as well. I fell for that. Make sure you get real Porsche caps if you go for it, they look better and will last a lot longer. suncoastparts.com has them for about 250 the set.

The clicking returned and I figured out that it only happens when the brakes are warm. I finally gave up and took the car in. Turns out there is a service bulletin on this, something about the way the rotor is mounted to its hub assembly. They are going to send us new front rotors when they have them fixed. They say the cars are completely safe to drive. O

Ogun, I just Carry a plug kit, large needle nose pliers and a compressor. I have always been able to plug the tire on the ground. You have to roll the car around till you get good access to the puncture. This way you do not have to worry about finding a tire during the trip and you have much more room for luggage. Ferrari owners would never do this but us Porsche guys don't mind getting dirty. Porsche does not like plugged tires. Personally, I have driven on plugged tires for Thousands of miles with out difficulty. Two plugs and the tire is retired. These tires don't last long any way.

Hi Nick, Sound in Motion in Brighton, Mass makes a sub for the 996 that fits in the passenger foot well. It is very clever using a reverse drive woofer which is very thin. They sell the whole sub carpeted with your color or I believe they will sell you the driver and plans to build the box. Talk to Jim.

You might try replacing the battery in the remotes if you have not already. Porsche did think of this which is why you still get an analog key. Ahsai all you need is a rubber wedge. You lightly tap it between the window and the gasket. The Dent Wizards carry them in all sizes. Worse case is you break the window or bend a slide, all easy enough to fix. A coat hanger bent just so gets you the rest of the way. Johnpro, you have no Porsche tech available and you are backed into a corner. I will check with my Porsche tech on Monday to make sure there are not any tricks then you are on your own. You have taken a lot of stuff apart so you should be just fine. You might also ask this question down in the 996 section. There are a lot more 996 owners who know those cars very well.

I put the car up this weekend using the outboard ends of the rear suspension cross member for the rear jack stands. Using padded ESCO jack stands there was absolutely no damage to the cross member, not even a nick in the finish. I even had my wife in the car. You have to have the engine running and someone standing on the brakes to get the wheels off (center lock). The car will corner past 1 G which means that cross member has to be able to handle the weight of the car SIDEWAYS! It is plenty sturdy. I should have taken a picture. Will do next time I have it up. I have seen the question of getting the 991 series up on jack stands in several forums without solid answers as nobody wants to risk breaking a car.

Actually, I can make that! Any height I want. I will report back in a few weeks with the result.

Take a look at this

Well, according to our experts that sensor reads both level and temp so, it is the only common denominator I can think of other than the wiring which works because the dash responds to your unplugging it and the cluster itself which you really don't want to think about as it goes for 3 grand. There are ways these sensors can fail which might not give you a fault reading. I guess if it happened to me assuming that the sensor is not crazy expensive I would try changing it. Or you could just take it to a Porsche shop. I use the Mitchell Online shop manual which would be terrible for something like this. It is not user friendly. It is good for things like component location, torque values and simple procedures like taking your wheels off. It is $30 for one year.

Just an update. I jacked the car at one of the rear lift points high enough to put stands under the front lift point and the rear suspension cross memeber under the inboard knuckle of the lower control arm. It seemed to handle it just fine but my mechanic says not to do this as it is not strong enough. He recommended Jackpoint jackstands which were designed by a lawyer/911 buff. You have a large diameter jack pad which fits on your floor jack. You lift the car with it then lower it on a stand which fits over the end of the floor jack. The jack pad locks into the top. Great idea not such a hot execution. It will only fit over very narrow floor jacks which mine is not. It is only 12 inches high and the height is fixed, nowhere near high enough to get my belly under the car not to mention my swollen head (steroid induced). One pair costs $300 but you only need one pair as you can use standard stands at the front. Mine do not even go down to 12 inches. Back to the drawing board.

Dammad, the first thing I would do is put the car up, drain the oil and measure it. I'm not sure what the 997.2 is, it probably should be somewhere around 8 quarts. Check the manual it will give you the figure. If it is a lot less then you have found your problem. You have two isolated issues, oil level and oil temp. It is highly unlikely that both would fail at the same time. The one issue I can think of that might affect both would be a real low oil level. The last thing to go is your oil pressure and you certainly do not want to let it go that far. let us know what happens and do not drive the car until you have figured it out.

Check and make sure the brake has not picked up a small pebble or other debris which can make all kinds of noise. The larger brake ducts they put on these cars can act like a street sweeper at times. Will do. Got my Snap On QD4R600 so I can pop the wheels off tonight and have a look. This torque wrench is a MONSTER. My understanding is that you are supposed to lube the center nuts. Any old aluminum anti sieze will work? I'm sure Porsche has some ridiculously priced stuff, we use anti seize. And boy do they goop it on. My hubs were buried in the stuff. I got the car up just fine. I jacked half the car up at a rear lift point placing a stand at the front lift point and another under the rear axel cross member at the bottom control arm knuckle. Then I did the other side. The center locks came off as advertised with the wife standing on the brakes. I could find absolutely nothing wrong with the brakes. Tomorrow I'll jump on the brakes in reverse then again from 100 mph and see if I can shake whatever loose. After that it is off to the dealer. My spoilers will not deploy at 75 mph. They work in manual mode and sport plus just fine. I suspect it is just a programming issue. That should only take 30 minutes to fix.

Check and make sure the brake has not picked up a small pebble or other debris which can make all kinds of noise. The larger brake ducts they put on these cars can act like a street sweeper at times. Will do. Got my Snap On QD4R600 so I can pop the wheels off tonight and have a look. This torque wrench is a MONSTER. My understanding is that you are supposed to lube the center nuts. Any old aluminum anti sieze will work?

Hey guys, Just got my 991 Turbo S. With 350 miles on it I am getting a ticking noise at wheel rotation speed on braking below 40 mph. As soon as I release the brakes it stops so it is obviously a brake problem. It is getting pretty loud. I have examined all of the wheels and brakes and can find notheing wrong. Since these are composite brakes you all probably have the most experience. Anyone got any ideas??

Question is, "Why is the car killing wheel bearings?" Even cars that see serious track time do not have this problem. Because it was tracked! I was reading the "Track" manual for my new Turbo S and discovered that Porsche instructs to replace the rear wheel bearings every 4500 miles in a tracked car and the wheel carriers every 9000! The fronts are supposed to be done every 9000. Tracking the car gets very expensive!

Yes , I can place the stands at the ends of that cross member where there is a very beefy bracket that the bottom control arm hinges on. But, then what to do about the front.... In the mean while I've come up against my first problem. Maybe you have seen this JFP. Something is wrong with my left front brake. While braking, as the car slows below 40 mph I get a rather loud ticking at wheel rotation speed. It stops the instant I take my foot off the brake. Looking at the wheel, disc and caliper I can see absolutely nothing wrong. The clearance between the brake pads and the disc hub is tight but I see no rub marks. I am getting my torque wrench tomorrow so I can pop the wheel off but I bet I see nothing. The dealer can take a look at it Saturday morning but my guess is they will just give me a loaner and keep the car. Got any ideas? I would not mind fixing it myself. That way I would not have to lose my car for the weekend :-(

Congratulations! Now try to not get too out of control......................... :eek: JFP, There is a suspension cross member which runs across the car in front of the engine. It looks Aluminum. I suspect it is in all 991s. Do you think I could use this as a center rear jack point?? If I bend it it could always be replaced not that I really want to do that. But, the only other place available is the bottom of the engine which everyone agrees is out of bounds. We have only had a handful of the 991's in the shop, and yes, that is an alloy member, so I do not know if it is designed to carry the entire weight of the back of the car. In any case. we do not lift any car with a floor jack under the center; I prefer to use the side rock box lift points using a jacking adaptor plate. The last thing I want to do is bend something on a customer's car...... Those lift points are where I normally use the floor jack with a wooden "hockey puck" The problem is that you can not get a jack stand in there with the floor jack in the way. You can lift and entire 1/2 car at the rears and get jack stands under the fronts. Now, how are you going to get the rear end up?? The rear is partially counter balanced by the car hanging out in front of the front jack stands so it is not as heavy as you would expect. That aluminum cross member is pretty beefy..... My guess is nobody will give me a direct answer not wanting to take responsibility for breaking the car. If you don't knoww the answer the answer is NO. Eventually, enough people like me will lift the cars here to be able to provide an educated answer. **** the torpedos.

Congratulations! Now try to not get too out of control......................... :eek: JFP, There is a suspension cross member which runs across the car in front of the engine. It looks Aluminum. I suspect it is in all 991s. Do you think I could use this as a center rear jack point?? If I bend it it could always be replaced not that I really want to do that. But, the only other place available is the bottom of the engine which everyone agrees is out of bounds.

Yes, definitely an exercise in restraint. At least I know for a fact that the car was broken in right. At 1000 miles I'll change the oil and balance and rotate the tires. Three more things I forgot to mention. The brakes are fabulous. They are beautiful, powerful and clean. Definitely worth the money. The steering is quick, nicely weighted and I can feel the road just fine. But, it does not have that little wiggle thing that 911s classically do. It is clinical. The steering in my 997 is more entertaining and I like it better. I can live with this not like I have any choice. The transmission is very cool. It is immediate and intuitive. In auto mode it has a brain of it's own. It even downshifts blipping the throttle. I can live with this but I wish I had a manual. In auto mode you have to learn how to control the transmission with your right foot. In paddle mode you deal with it like any manual except the engine braking is not great. Downshifting in traffic is close to worthless, just use the brakes.

First impressions. If the 991 Turbo doesn't have presence it is only because it is in the wrong color. This thing turns heads like crazy. My Yellow C4S turns ladies heads. This car turns everyone's heads. Believe it or not, it is a favorite with children. The Xpel film is totally amazing. When you tell people the front of the car is covered they don't believe it! The full job was $2500 and worth every sent. They don't pre cut the film for this car. They use a full sheet, wrap it around the nose and custom cut it on the car, cool. The cabin is just as cozy as any 911. The extra width is taken up by the center console. These cars you sit down into them. Older 911s you sort of sit on top of, reaching down to the stick like in a VW bug (old one). The ergo make sense once you get use to it. I wish they put car control on the wheel like Ferrari does. Getting to the Sport, Sport plus buttons is a little..odd, forcing you to look down. The mode does come up on the wheel in the left spoke. But, if you don't know what mode your in you have to be brain dead as the difference between the modes is pretty dramatic. Regular is real lazy. You might as well be driving an Audi A4. Sport snaps the car to attention, the best mode to be in most of the time. Sport Plus is manic crazy nutter car. The revs jump, the chassis stiffens into race mode, the pedal response is lightening fast. You really can't do it until the car is broken in. 911s classically have that raspy, chain saw whine. This thing howls with a ton of burbling and backfires on lift off...FUN. The nice thing about it is that I can hear the motor at all times, even over the stereo, so I'm not always looking down at the tach. My 2001 Turbo I could not hear the motor much of the time over the stereo. I do like my music loud. My wife says I have two modes, On and Off. Anyway, the car red lines at 7200 so, there is a good 3000 rpm I have not explored yet. Driving this car on a windy road is as much of a blast if not more than any 911, there is no substitute. Here are some pics.

Zoomus is another nice one. It is a windshield mount with the new 3M gel pad suction cup thingy. It is permanently stuck to the windshield until you want it off. The best location is just to the right of the left A pillar which in most cars puts it right next to the steering wheel. This puts the phone in full view without blocking your view of the road. I am surprised all you smart phone 911 jockeys are not jumping all over Escort Live. It saves my -ss at least once a week!. The radar detector is BlueToothed to your smart phone which is communicating with Escorts cloud via their GPS ap. When your radar detector picks up a Ka or laser trap it notifies the cloud of the trap's position which in turn relays that info to any Live user within a mile of the trap. The phone also tells you when the trap was last reported. The user can also report any police spotted by pushing one button. The system also knows the location of every fixed trap and red light camera. Up here in New England on the major highways there is always a Live user within 10 minutes of you. The only scenarios you have to worry about are: driving up on an unmarked car and a trooper pulling in behind you at night.

This is absolutely normal. My car does the same thing. It depends on how cold the car is when you start it. Porsches like to be driven! I think 3000 miles per year is the minimum. All sorts of funny stuff happens to these cars when they sit from moldy air conditioning to ruined wheel bearings to flat spotted tires which shake the crap out of everything. If these cars are well maintained they can literally go for ever. It is just not cheap. However, I am beginning to think that in the long run the cost is less if they are driven. With modern lubricants, paints, paint protection film and detailed maintenance which most of us do ourselves because it is FUN, 911s weather beautifully. People are always surprised when I tell them my car is an 06. Every last one of them (except 911 experts) think it is brand new. If you do not love driving these cars I'm not sure why you would own one. Magnus Walker has absolutely the right attitude. (a Brit by the way)

Has any one tried Cool Carbon pads??