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About EricGregory

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  • From
    White Haven, PA, USA
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2008 Porsche Carrera 4S
    2004 Subaru Forester
  • Former cars
    2008 Subaru STI
    1981 Alfa Romeo Spider
    1974 VW Thing
    1991 Honda CRX Si
    1996 BMW 328is

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  1. Yeah, they mentioned a vent hole that shouldn't be covered. Seems like a bit of a design liability to me, but I digress.
  2. I had the car trailered to an indie garage that works on P-cars. Long story short, the clutch plate was bad. The reason blew my mind... Basically, the plate had become misaligned and had worn unevenly. When the garage popped off the transmission to get to the clutch they said a bunch of corn fell out of it. Corn, yes, corn. Mice had evidently been storing their foodstuffs in the transmission. The crazy thing is that the car is in fact driven several times per week. So, 2200 bucks and a new clutch later, the car is running fine. I think I need to get an owl for our garage. Our cats are entirely too lazy. Anyway, that's one problem solved.
  3. That's one of the other things that came to mind. Initial inspection of the hydraulic line to the clutch turned up nothing amiss. One of the other bits of work I did was to replace the left front outer CV boot so I had an axle off the car as well, but I can't see any way that would be related to the clutch issues. I'm stumped.
  4. I drained a bit. There was a slight improvement, albeit *very* slight. I think something else has gone wrong. It just makes zero sense that it worked fine before I changed the fluid, now it's pretty well useless [as a car] :-p I guess I have to find a garage to check it out... Thanks :-)
  5. Yep. I used the lower hole and filled until it seeped out. Either way I'll drain a bit and hope it helps
  6. Thanks for getting back to me. I used the fill hole in the forward part of the transmission. It's strange, sometimes the clutch pedal doesn't want to return and even when it does it feels like the clutch is still partially engaged. Basically pressing the accelerator increases RPM but the speed of the car doesn't increase. I've done trans fluid changes on plenty of cars but never had this problem.
  7. Greetings everyone. I've got a really weird problem going on at the moment. So, I put my car up on my jack stands and did a transmission fluid and front differential fluid change with Porsche OEM 75w-90 fluid. After buttoning up everything and making sure everything was tight and not leaking, I took the car for a test drive. I noticed first of all, that my clutch wouldn't quite return properly when I started up the car. I checked to make sure the floor mat wasn't causing any problems, the clutch pedal popped right back up, so I assume it was the mat. After getting the car out of the garage, the clutch was returning properly, until I made it to 3rd gear. At that point, the clutch felt, the best way I can describe it is "sluggish." Then, it felt like the clutch was slipping horribly. Trying to accelerate in any gear was was nearly impossible. Incidentally, I could start the car on a hill without any problems (in first, obviously). I finally made it home, put the car in my garage and will crawl around under it in the morning. The fluid change was a simple task so I don't know what could have gone wrong. I filled it until it dripped out of the fill hole, so I definitely didn't overfill (yes, I used the forward fill hole, not the one by the axles) :-) Everything was working perfectly prior to the fluid change. Anyway, has anyone ever experienced anything like this after changing transmission fluid? What could I have done wrong or screwed up? PS: The car is a 2008 Carrera 4S
  8. So here's what I ended up doing... To get the C-Pillar loose: Remove the coat hooks at the top of the B-Pillar by prying outward from the bottom. Unscrew both the Philips & Torx screws holding the coat hook's mounting point and remove. Lower seat belt adjusters all the way to the bottom of the B-Pillar. Pull top of B-Pillar out from the top (it will be loose). Grasp the C-Pillar trim at its forward end (the end that was concealed by the coat hook) and grasp from the top of the trim approximately 4" - 6" back. Pull until you think something is going to break. Pull some more. The clips will disengage and the trim panel will come loose. To get the rear section of the headliner loose: Feel around for the hard plastic border that forms the rear edge of the headliner. Locate the forward edge of this piece. Starting from either the right or left side of the car, push upward and back on the plastic piece. You will hear what sounds like fabric or glue separating, don't worry about it. That sound is only the sound damping padding flexing. As you push the piece towards the rear of the car, it will start to come loose and you'll see that it attaches via plastic tabs into metal tabs in the roof. Keep going until you reach the side of the car opposite where you started. The back section of the headliner will now be free. This exposes the rear drain tubes from the sunroof tray. I hope this might help someone at some point. If it's a bit basic, or has been posted before, my apologies. Thanks Eric
  9. Greetings guys. We've had a pretty substantial amount of rain here in PA today. When I had my Porker out to run some errands I noticed that there was some water dripping from my headliner at the back of the headliner. After I got home, I dried off the roof of the car to have a look around. For the most part, the sunroof tray wasn't too drenched. But, when I poured a small bit of water down the back of the sunroof to see if the drains were blocked, an interesting thing happened. Some water came out the drains properly, and some stayed in, wetting the headliner some more. I assume that I'll have to pull the headliner out to adequately check and repair the problem (I'm assuming either partially blocked, clogged, or damaged drain tubes. That said, I've searched high & low to find some instructions or info about how to pull the headliner so I can get eyes on the problem. Unfortunately, I've come up with nothing. Ideally, I could just disconnect the rear portion of the headliner and get this taken care of. Any ideas, or photos or how-tos that anyone could point me towards? I don't like the idea of a leaky roof and I really don't want any problems that could arise as a result... Thanks Much Eric
  10. Thanks for the info. I ended up getting this taken care of. Viva la Durametric Pro.
  11. The other reason that I'd like to get it deactivated is because I plan on buying a winter tire/wheel setup for it and I'd rather not plunk down the addition couple hundred bucks on the sensors.
  12. Greetings everyone. I'm new to the forum and new to Porsche ownership. I picked up a 2008 C4S just over a month ago. So far, I absolutely adore the car. It has the same feeling you get when you pick up a good sword, it instantly communicates how it's to be used. So far, I've done an oil change, a serpentine belt change, and some detail work on it. Anyway, the TPC decided it wanted to deactivate itself and now I've got the annoying warning lights goin' on. If this was a lesser car, I'd slap some electrical tape over the light and move on. But, obviously, I'm *not* going to do that to the Porker. Personally, I hate TPMS. If you can't be bothered to properly check your tire pressures periodically you've got no business driving, but that's just me. Everything I've seen states that Durametric Pro is needed to disable TPC/TPMS entirely. Does anyone else have another solution? I'm in northeastern PA and would be more than happy to provide beer to anyone who could help turn it off :thumbup: Thanks Much Eric
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