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smackboy1

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Everything posted by smackboy1

  1. Has anybody else modded their clutch delay switch? I just read this on Cayman Club http://www.caymanclub.net/cayman-modificat...feated-joy.html I just tried it out and WOW :D what a difference. The throttle pedal is now much more sensitive off the line and after shifts. Power after an upshift is much more immediately available. Heel-toe downshifts are much easier because I don't have to blip the throttle as deeply to get the revs up. I don't know exactly what the clutch delay switch does, but it feels like it modifies the throttle map (makes it less sensitive) so you have to push the throttle pedal deeper to get increase the throttle while the delay is in effect. Since I got the 996 I've noticed a "turbo-lag-like" effect where upon a standing start, the engine will surge a little at around 3,000 rpm. I used to think that was the Variocam Plus kicking in. Now I am rethinking that theory. I think a more likely culprit is the clutch delay switch causing a throttle lag which coincidentally happens to end when I reach around 3,000 rpm. Interesting.
  2. I found a TSB from 2004 relating to P2096 in my model year car http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...load&id=607 I guess there was an software error in DME control module which can trigger a CEL even if the O2 sensor is fully operational. So based on this information I'm thinking I should 1) Go to the dealer and get the updated DME software installed. 2) Wait and see if the P2096 code returns and if a. if the code does not return, do nothing. b. if the code returns, change out the O2 sensor. Make sense?
  3. OK, the CEL just came back on and threw the same P2096 code. It took 8 months/5,000 miles to come back. Is this a sign that the sensor is bad or could it be bad gasoline. I use almost exclusively Shell. Then yesterday I filled the tank with Lukoil (the only time I've used Lukoil for this car) and 240 miles later, the CEL comes on.
  4. Had my car on a lift yesterday and noticed something strange. The inside surface of both front rotors are scored. The outside approx 1 cm are worn shiny, but the next 1 cm or so looks untouched by the pads (rusty and raised) and so on. They look like the rings of Saturn. It's only on the inside surface of the rotors. The back rotors' inside surface seem to have a similar effect but much less apparent. The outside surfaces of all 4 rotors look fine. The car seems to stop fine on the street. I replaced the front pads, dampers etc. (w/ OEM) 2,000 miles ago. Did not examine the inside of the rotors but the old pads looked normal. Ran an autoX (braking seemed normal). Replaced the rear pads, dampers etc (w/ OEM) 500 miles ago. Did not examine the inside of the rotors but the old pads looked normal. Flushed the brake fluid. Ran an autoX (braking seemed normal). Does anyone have any ideas why just the inside surface of the rotors are scored? What to do? TIA.
  5. I've read a lot of posts talking about pulling the brake sensors out and tying them off somewhere out of the way. Does anybody have a photo or more detailed explanation of where and how to tie the wires up out of the way? Is there a way to tie them up and keep them dry? It's been raining a lot lately and the "brake wear" light comes on intermittently. It's getting annoying. I have 5+ mm of pad left all around so I know the pads aren't actually worn out yet. Thanks.
  6. The series resistor has been out for 2 years. I asked my dealer about the fan being out and they told me it was normal and they could find no fault :rolleyes: My coolant overflow tank blew last year. Luckily it was covered under warranty. Looks like it's time to call Sunset and buy a soldering iron.
  7. The front driver's side radiator fan won't come on low speed. After checking fuses and swapping relays I found that the fan will come on high speed, but not low speed. Ergo, from reading other posts, I believe the ballast resistor on that side is kaput. After looking behind the wheel well cover it looks like the wires disappear into the fan somewhere so I'm thinking a repair option might be the old one out and solder a new one in rather than try to unplug it from the back of the fan. Questions: - Is this the correct way to fix this? How hard is it? I'm not exactly a whiz with a soldering iron but it looks pretty straight forward. Does anyone have the part #? I just got quoted $137 from dealer parts. Anybody have any installation tips? - How important is the low speed fan on the driver's side if the passenger side low speed fan is working? The high speed fans for both sides seems to work. Do I even need to fix this?
  8. Hi Loren, I don't mean to be obtuse, but "yes" to which question? Yes, reduced chance of RMS and IMS problems w/ new seals in place? Yes, the RMS and IMS seals should be changed at the next clutch service, even if there are no leaks? Thanks.
  9. So 2 years ago I had an RMS leak and it was replaced w/ the 997 part by the dealer. I was just in again because the IMS was leaking. They mentioned that they recommend replacing the IMS when they replace the RMS (although they didn't tell me this 2 years ago when I was in for the RMS). Luckily this was all covered by extended warranty. So here is my question: is the probability of future RMS and IMS problems for my car now greatly reduced? Is there any value in changing both the RMS and IMS in the absence of oil leaks as preventive maintenance the next time the transmission is down e.g. clutch replacement?
  10. http://www.renewablelube.com/products/pdf/...Motor%20Oil.pdf Renewable Lubricants, Inc. Bio Synthetic 5W40 Heavy Duty. It's basically vegetable oil based and its supposed to have great performance; better than all the name brand synthetics. I am trying it out based a UOA and recommendation from my tribologist http://www.dysonanalysis.com, and reading about it on BITOG. I've only got about 7 months 3000 miles on the oil, so if the dealer changes out the oil or adds another oil, it will confuse the next UOA.
  11. I am taking my car in to the dealer because there is oil weeping around the area of the RMS. The dealer replaced the RMS once already in July 2006 (I believe w/ the 997 part). It's possible it's something other than the RMS, maybe intermediate shaft. The car is under Warranty Direct, so I suspect the dealer will be motivated to get as many boat payments from my car as they can. Here's the question, does the repair of any oil leaks in this area of the car require an engine oil change or topping up (the oil level is OK, the leak is miniscule)? I am using a special oil so I need to know if I have to bring oil (and how much) to the dealer, and remind them not to pour M1 into the engine and contaminate it.
  12. Thanks Loren. Bank 1 are the driver's side (car's left) cylinders, correct? Which wire is attached to the #2 sensor, black sheathing or blue sheathing? It's really tight in there, what is the best way to gain access to the sensor and wire? Do I have to take off the bumper cover?
  13. Thanks Loren. Is replacing an O2 sensor a difficult job? Where is the aft O2 sensor, is there a DIY w/ photos? Or should I just take the car to the dealer/indy?
  14. The CEL came on yesterday 10 minutes after startup. This is the code P2096 Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean What is that and what should I do about it? Is that something to do with the O2 sensor on bank 1? Car's feels like it's running fine. I have an extended warranty that covers the emissions system but I have a $200 deductible. Thanks for any help.
  15. So I'm trying to figure out why my new Optima is flat and I discovered that all my interior lights (dome and side of doors) will stay lit for about 2 hours under certain conditions. This is not just the amber orientation LEDs, all the incandescent bulbs are on too. If I pull out the key and open and close the door, the interior lights will come on and go out automatically after 30 seconds. But, if I pull the ignition key without opening or closing the door, all the interior lights stay on for about 2 hours before turning off. Is that normal? Is 2 hours enough to weaken the battery?
  16. I think the manufacturer, Niagara Plastics, got wise after a while when all these people would order free sample orange caps but never place an order. I got mine by asking online and someone on rennlist was good enough to send me an extra one. Best free mod ever.
  17. 1) Orange Cap - Throaty exhaust note for a very reasonable price 2) SmartTop and RemoteTop
  18. Any Optima retailer should be able to provide a warranty exchange e.g. Pep Boys, Autozone. The Optimas have a 36 month warranty. The problem will be finding a place which can get hold of another 34R, not many brick and mortar places carry them.
  19. My car is at the dealer for some maintenance (not battery related) and the tech noticed that the car had trouble starting. He thinks the battery is on the way out. I just installed a brand new Optima 34R a couple of months ago so it seems a little strange if the battery is not holding a charge. Anyone have a similar experience? Is it an Optima thing, or Porsche thing or something else?
  20. Sorry about this long a$$ post but I'm confused (plus I'm a lawyer so it's my job to take something simple and screw it all up) I bled my brakes and clutch fluid with ATE Super Blue for the first time and I think the clutch pedal feels weird, but I can't tell if the change is real or if it's all in my head. First off, I'm not entirely sure I bled the clutch line correctly. I used Loren's directions using a long bar to hold the pedal down: " 1. Push the clutch pedal in by hand (very slowly) and use a long piece of wood to hold the pedal down. I wedged the other end (of the wood) between the seat and door frame -- with plenty of soft padding to avoid scratches. A second option is to have a 2nd person sit in the car and keep the clutch pedal FULLY depressed. 2. Open the clutch bleeder valve until clear, bubble free brake fluid emerges (at least 30 seconds according to Porsche). Remove the wood. Then, pump the pedal again very slowly by hand for a further 60 seconds. After pressing the pedal down fully about 10 to 15 times, leave the pedal in its normal position. After allowing a fill time of 90 seconds, check that no more air bubbles appear at the bleeder valve (use a collecting bottle with a transparent hose). Then close the bleeder valve. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. 3. You may notice that the clutch pedal does not return... so carefully pull it up (slowly) to it's normal position. Then depress it (slowly) a few (at lease 5) times. In a few cycles the feel should return." In step 2 I opened the bleeder and bled a bunch of air. I wait until the draining fluid turns blue. I remove the bar, cycle the pedal 10-15 times, continue draining fluid for 90 seconds, check for bubbles, then close the bleeder valve. I opened the bleeder valve once at the beginning and left it open and fluid draining throughout the procedure and then closed the valve once at the end. After I was done the clutch pedal did not need to be pulled up or cycled to get the springiness back. Is that the correct procedure or did I goof? So I'm driving around and it feels like the overall clutch pedal action is lighter and less stiff at the bottom. I also notice that the clutch pedal seems to have a little more pop at the end as I'm lifting my foot off it. I'm not talking about the engine take up point, that seems to be the same as before, about 1/3 up from the floor. The clutch feels like it has 2 stages of "springiness", the top 1" is light and springy, and the rest of the way to the bottom there is a little more resistance. After bleeding there seems to be a more pronounced difference between the 2 stages and that last 1" seems to feel extra springy and light. The car drives and shifts fine. Is bleeding the clutch supposed to change the feel or is it all in my head?
  21. What is the degree of difficulty of changing the transmission and FWD oil compared to changing the engine oil and filter? Cars got 42K on it but I plan to start tracking it and I have no idea how the original owner drove the car. I figure changing out the fluids after some track time is cheap insurance.
  22. OK, so this is a bit of a dumba$$ question, but I'm not that handy with a wrench, I can barely change my own oil. When changing out the manual transmission oil and the FWD oil, how do you fill it up with fresh oil? From the diagram it looks like the fill holes are on the side and underneath the car. Is there some kind of trick or equipment required?
  23. Not really sure which part you are referring to but there's nothing attached to the front leading edge. Is the rubber seal attached to the fabric roof in good condition? Hope this helps.
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