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smackboy1

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Everything posted by smackboy1

  1. I want to clean out the car's air intake using BG44K (similar idea to Seafoam). Where is the best place to introduce the fluid into the engine? In other cars I've used the PCV vacuum hose, but with our cars that's kind of inconvenient to get to. Some people use the brake booster line, but that seems to only reach one bank of cylinders. Is there another place?
  2. After an long search I found 1 thread about RemoteTop. I removed the module and now the LED's are off and things seem to be normal again. Time to contact Wilhelmy and see what's up.
  3. I was taking an oil sample today and when I got done I noticed that all 4 of the alarm LED's on the dash are lit solid red all the time. It doesn't seem to matter if the car is running or off, or even if the key is in the ignition, they are on the whole time. However nothing seems to be amiss with the car, it runs fine and the key remote seems to work fine. Anybody got a clue what this means?
  4. How involved do you want to get? I'm not an expert by any means, but I have used Dr. ColorChip, Langka and the old school wet sand and polish. I also have an arctic silver metallic and a seal grey metallic car. The metallic paint is really hard to get an invisible touch up repair and the light shade of the arctic silver makes it that much harder to hide. It doesn't matter what method you use or which touch up paint you use, the little flecks of metal in the repair are just not going to match the surrounding factory paint exactly. FWIW here is my summary: Old school wet sand and polish - Use the factory touch up paint and some elbow grease. Done right this probably gives the best result, but it requires some skill and practice. Screw it up and you can make the damage even worse by sanding off too much paint. You also need to buy a bunch of different supplies. But if you want a repair where you can't feel the repair at all with your fingertips or fingernails, this is the way. Here is a set of really good instructions http://bugmanweb.com/c6/c6files/paintchipsbynon.pdf Langka - Basically Langka is a chemical (feels like lotion and I suspect it maybe an acetone compound). When repairing scratches, instead of wet sanding down the touch up paint blob, you use the Langka on a t-shirt to remove the excess paint and smooth the blob so it's flush with the factory paint surface. Langka does not dissolve the factory paint so it's safer than wet sanding. To do it right you should probably still use polish and hand glaze to finish the repair. IMHO, although it's easier and more idiot proof than wet sanding, the results are not as good. You just can't get the surface of the repair as smoothly blended with the surrounding paint with a t-shirt. I can blend the repair better wet sanding than using Langka. I use Langka to remove the bulk of the blob, but finish it with some wet sanding. http://www.langka.com/ Dr. ColorChip - It's a very easy DIY system which uses what looks like thinned touch up paint and a chemical like Langka. The paint is smeared into the scratch and any excess is wiped off using the Langka-like chemical. It's easy, fast and idiot proof, but the results are not as good as the other methods. I use it when I am lazy and I have to repair a larger area with lots of small scratches and it's in an out of the way location. http://drcolorchip.com/
  5. I have searched the RTFM and I am rapidly coming to the conclusion my only hope is a dealer reprogramming. But if anybody has any other suggestions I have nothing to lose trying them. 2003 C2 Coupe. On vacation for about 2 weeks with the car parked. When I return, remote #1 will not wirelessly unlock/lock the car. I set off the alarm opening the door. Turning the key in the ignition shuts off the alarm and starts the engine. - Remote #2 works OK, no problems. - I lock and unlock the door with the key and press the remote button - remote #1 is still dead (but LED flashes) - I change remote #1 battery - still dead - I try the reverse battery polarity trick to restart the processor - when I press the button, the LED just flashes slowly instead of a fast flash, but the remote is still dead. - I reread all the posts about dead remote keys, RTFM, try every combination of turning the key in the lock and pressing the button - the remote is still dead. - Resigned to being out $150 to have the dealer reprogram the remote, I compose this last hope post :help:
  6. I have a 2003 C2 w/ X74 suspension and 235/40R18 285/30R18 tires. Does anybody know what the maximum negative camber adjustment possible on the front wheels? The factory spec is F -0.5 deg (30') R -1.67 deg (1* 40'). I am thinking of adjusting it to F -1 deg R -2 deg. Can anybody offer any feedback on how that will feel or offer their experiences with different X74 alignments? I drive mostly on the street with the some track days and autocross.
  7. Here's a few videos http://fr.truveo.com/VARIOCAM-BY-PORSCHE/id/1073970301 http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...videoid=7064521 http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...videoid=7065336
  8. Here's the latest post I found on the subject: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-...-names-etc.html
  9. Unfortunately booster car seat models get regularly updated so I would guess that none of the seats mentioned in the old posts are available anymore. I just went through researching this exact issue. This is the most current post on the subject I found http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-...-names-etc.html I ended up getting the Recaro Vivo Lite http://www.toysrus.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3441465 It fits OK with the rear seat cushion and rear seat back in place, but there's not much leg room. I found it fit best after I removed the rear seat cushions and seat backs entirely. The booster is plush and very rigid so it's fine just like that. NOTE: I installed these seats on a 2003 Coupe, not the Cabrio I have listed in my sig. Although I see no reason why it wouldn't fit in a cab.
  10. You can compare different tire sizes using this calculator http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp 295/35R18 is only 1.04% bigger diameter than the stock 285/35R18. As long as the wheels can handle the tire then it should be OK. The general rule is +/- up to 3% diameter change is OK. Another thing to keep in mind is that the stock 225 front, 285 rear understeers quite a bit. Going to 295 in the rears if it does anything, will make it understeer more. Might consider running 235 front, 295 rear. Small changes in tire size like this are not going to mess up your AWD. Porsche uses a viscous slip center diff so there is no solid physical connection between the front and rear axles. Plus the system is set up to provide a minimum of 5% drive to the front axle all the time so there is almost always a speed difference in the center diff. A 1-3% difference in tire diameter isn't going to break anything. More important is to make sure the wheel well and the wheel can handle the tire. Oh, and the speedo will be a bit off.
  11. At todays prices, I would imagine a cost benefit analysis taking into account labor, parts, reliability, repair, warranty, resale and headaches would come out in favor of just going out and buying a TT and putting the current ride up for sale. Another idea is to install a supercharger kit. It''s pretty much plug and play, no need to mess with compression or reprogramming the ECU. When it's time to sell, just unbolt it and you're back to stock.
  12. I have 235/40R18 up front without any problems (street, track, autocross). The regular C4 is a narrow body like the C2. The C4S is the wide body like the Turbo. BTW, if you're looking for a street performance tire, take a look at the Yokohama Advan Neova AD07 (or new model AD08). I came off Rossos (hated them) and the Yokohamas have been phenomenal all around. Probably not as good on the track as a DOT-legal competition tire like the Corsa, but when it rains the Yokohama probably evacuates water a little better.
  13. No part #s apparent. But the springs have 3 colored paint dots: orange, white, blue. The dampers have a "T" on the tubes. The anti roll bars size don't seem to match anything Porsche or even H&R (24.3 mm front, 20 mm rear). The dealer couldn't make a positive ID. I think the dampers and springs are X74 (see photo). The ARB is probably unknown aftermarket.
  14. That is what I am thinking, aftermarket shocks. If the shocks do not have a big sticker or remnant of one with a barcode on it, it is aftermarket. Also look on the rear roll bar on the left side and see if you can find a paint dot. If you can tell us what color it is. Also on the springs there should be 3 paint marks on them. what color are those. I don't know. I did not have the car jacked up and I couldn't really get a good look. I didn't see any stickers on the shock tubes from my exam. From looking at pictures of shocks from websites e.g. Tirerack, Suncoast, Carnewal and also photos of X74 shocks, it looks like X74s only have 1 sticker and regular yellow Bilsteins have more stickers. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/for-...-sway-bars.html I'm getting a PPI and I asked the dealer to ID the suspension. Hopefully they will be able to positively ID them.
  15. Thanks Loren. That's exactly what I thought, X74. The car looks like it came from the factor with US M030 suspension. What color are the M030 shocks? Are the anti roll bars for the US M030 and X74 the same? What is the significance of the red brake calipers? They look like stock 996 calipers but the red paint looks factory.
  16. The owner has no idea what the car has. What is this suspension and what are these brakes? It's a 2003 996 C2. The option sticker shows code 030 (US sport suspension). The front ride height is approx 1.5 - 2" lower than my stock C4 cabrio. I think I know what the suspension is, but I want a confirmation. It feels fairly stiff with a lot less roll than stock. The red brake calipers have me confused; they look like standard stock brakes to me.
  17. I'm looking at buying a 2004 40th Edition w/ 52,000 miles. I did not drive it yet, but as I was inspecting it I noticed the yellow gunk on the oil filler cap and in the tube. Dipstick seems clean. OK, so there is moisture in the oil. Could be something bad, could be nothing at all, right? So the $64 question is should I go ahead and pay for a PPI and see what the tech finds, or should I take a pass on the this car? Is a PPI going to be able to confirm the engine is OK?
  18. Don't panic. Just because the IMS (or RMS) is leaking doesn't mean the engine is done. Maybe that's all it is, a leak. If it's just a leak just replace with updated 997 parts. RMS gets a new seal that's seated deeper. IIRC IMS gets new bolts. Best thing to do is take it to the dealer and have them take a look and check the case spec to see how big your problem is. As a preventative measure replace both the IMS and RMS with updated seals/bolts while the transmission is off, maybe consider changing your clutch too if it's worn.
  19. When you tried the vinegar, how long did you leave it on the hood before wiping off? If it's a real stubborn deposit you may have give it some time to dissolve the deposits. Also, warming the vinegar up may speed up the reaction.
  20. I'm looking at a 2002 C2 coupe w/ 70K miles listed by a Porsche dealer. In the course of due diligence they admit that the engine was replaced around 6/2005 at 35K miles because of RMS issues. The clutch needs to be replaced. While they have the tranny out, I was thinking to ask them to replace the RMS and IMS if there are updated seals and bolts. Has there been updated parts for the RMS and IMS since 6/2005 which would make sense to get installed? Does anyone know the part #s?
  21. Thanks. What is the DME learning or adjusting? It's not like an automatic where optimal shift points can be "learned", is it?
  22. The DME just got replaced under warranty. The minute I drive off the lot, I notice the throttle feels different. Would a new DME change the E-gas throttle map? What the heck does the DME do anyway?
  23. The saga continues... Took the car to the dealer to get the TSB DME update. The DME software would not allow the DME to be updated. The upshot is that the dealer is ordering a new DME and replacing the old one under the emissions warranty. The tech asked me if the DME had ever been flashed using 3rd party software. I've never done it but I'm the 2nd owner so anything is possible. Is there any way to know if the DME has ever been modded? Apart from the DME being defective, is there another reason why the software would reject an update?
  24. It's defintely on my 996. It seems to be on Caymans and 997. Don't know about the Boxters but I would imagine it would be the same.
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