Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by smackboy1

  1. I want to clean out the car's air intake using BG44K (similar idea to Seafoam). Where is the best place to introduce the fluid into the engine? In other cars I've used the PCV vacuum hose, but with our cars that's kind of inconvenient to get to. Some people use the brake booster line, but that seems to only reach one bank of cylinders. Is there another place?
  2. After an long search I found 1 thread about RemoteTop. I removed the module and now the LED's are off and things seem to be normal again. Time to contact Wilhelmy and see what's up.
  3. I was taking an oil sample today and when I got done I noticed that all 4 of the alarm LED's on the dash are lit solid red all the time. It doesn't seem to matter if the car is running or off, or even if the key is in the ignition, they are on the whole time. However nothing seems to be amiss with the car, it runs fine and the key remote seems to work fine. Anybody got a clue what this means?
  4. How involved do you want to get? I'm not an expert by any means, but I have used Dr. ColorChip, Langka and the old school wet sand and polish. I also have an arctic silver metallic and a seal grey metallic car. The metallic paint is really hard to get an invisible touch up repair and the light shade of the arctic silver makes it that much harder to hide. It doesn't matter what method you use or which touch up paint you use, the little flecks of metal in the repair are just not going to match the surrounding factory paint exactly. FWIW here is my summary: Old school wet sand and polish - Use
  5. I have searched the RTFM and I am rapidly coming to the conclusion my only hope is a dealer reprogramming. But if anybody has any other suggestions I have nothing to lose trying them. 2003 C2 Coupe. On vacation for about 2 weeks with the car parked. When I return, remote #1 will not wirelessly unlock/lock the car. I set off the alarm opening the door. Turning the key in the ignition shuts off the alarm and starts the engine. - Remote #2 works OK, no problems. - I lock and unlock the door with the key and press the remote button - remote #1 is still dead (but LED flashes) - I change rem
  6. I have a 2003 C2 w/ X74 suspension and 235/40R18 285/30R18 tires. Does anybody know what the maximum negative camber adjustment possible on the front wheels? The factory spec is F -0.5 deg (30') R -1.67 deg (1* 40'). I am thinking of adjusting it to F -1 deg R -2 deg. Can anybody offer any feedback on how that will feel or offer their experiences with different X74 alignments? I drive mostly on the street with the some track days and autocross.
  7. Here's a few videos http://fr.truveo.com/VARIOCAM-BY-PORSCHE/id/1073970301 http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...videoid=7064521 http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...videoid=7065336
  8. Here's the latest post I found on the subject: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-...-names-etc.html
  9. Unfortunately booster car seat models get regularly updated so I would guess that none of the seats mentioned in the old posts are available anymore. I just went through researching this exact issue. This is the most current post on the subject I found http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-...-names-etc.html I ended up getting the Recaro Vivo Lite http://www.toysrus.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3441465 It fits OK with the rear seat cushion and rear seat back in place, but there's not much leg room. I found it fit best after I removed the rear seat cushions and seat backs entir
  10. You can compare different tire sizes using this calculator http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp 295/35R18 is only 1.04% bigger diameter than the stock 285/35R18. As long as the wheels can handle the tire then it should be OK. The general rule is +/- up to 3% diameter change is OK. Another thing to keep in mind is that the stock 225 front, 285 rear understeers quite a bit. Going to 295 in the rears if it does anything, will make it understeer more. Might consider running 235 front, 295 rear. Small changes in tire size like this are not going to mess up your AWD. Porsche uses
  11. At todays prices, I would imagine a cost benefit analysis taking into account labor, parts, reliability, repair, warranty, resale and headaches would come out in favor of just going out and buying a TT and putting the current ride up for sale. Another idea is to install a supercharger kit. It''s pretty much plug and play, no need to mess with compression or reprogramming the ECU. When it's time to sell, just unbolt it and you're back to stock.
  12. I have 235/40R18 up front without any problems (street, track, autocross). The regular C4 is a narrow body like the C2. The C4S is the wide body like the Turbo. BTW, if you're looking for a street performance tire, take a look at the Yokohama Advan Neova AD07 (or new model AD08). I came off Rossos (hated them) and the Yokohamas have been phenomenal all around. Probably not as good on the track as a DOT-legal competition tire like the Corsa, but when it rains the Yokohama probably evacuates water a little better.
  13. No part #s apparent. But the springs have 3 colored paint dots: orange, white, blue. The dampers have a "T" on the tubes. The anti roll bars size don't seem to match anything Porsche or even H&R (24.3 mm front, 20 mm rear). The dealer couldn't make a positive ID. I think the dampers and springs are X74 (see photo). The ARB is probably unknown aftermarket.
  14. That is what I am thinking, aftermarket shocks. If the shocks do not have a big sticker or remnant of one with a barcode on it, it is aftermarket. Also look on the rear roll bar on the left side and see if you can find a paint dot. If you can tell us what color it is. Also on the springs there should be 3 paint marks on them. what color are those. I don't know. I did not have the car jacked up and I couldn't really get a good look. I didn't see any stickers on the shock tubes from my exam. From looking at pictures of shocks from websites e.g. Tirerack, Suncoast, Carnewal and also ph
  15. Thanks Loren. That's exactly what I thought, X74. The car looks like it came from the factor with US M030 suspension. What color are the M030 shocks? Are the anti roll bars for the US M030 and X74 the same? What is the significance of the red brake calipers? They look like stock 996 calipers but the red paint looks factory.
  16. The owner has no idea what the car has. What is this suspension and what are these brakes? It's a 2003 996 C2. The option sticker shows code 030 (US sport suspension). The front ride height is approx 1.5 - 2" lower than my stock C4 cabrio. I think I know what the suspension is, but I want a confirmation. It feels fairly stiff with a lot less roll than stock. The red brake calipers have me confused; they look like standard stock brakes to me.
  17. I'm looking at buying a 2004 40th Edition w/ 52,000 miles. I did not drive it yet, but as I was inspecting it I noticed the yellow gunk on the oil filler cap and in the tube. Dipstick seems clean. OK, so there is moisture in the oil. Could be something bad, could be nothing at all, right? So the $64 question is should I go ahead and pay for a PPI and see what the tech finds, or should I take a pass on the this car? Is a PPI going to be able to confirm the engine is OK?
  18. Don't panic. Just because the IMS (or RMS) is leaking doesn't mean the engine is done. Maybe that's all it is, a leak. If it's just a leak just replace with updated 997 parts. RMS gets a new seal that's seated deeper. IIRC IMS gets new bolts. Best thing to do is take it to the dealer and have them take a look and check the case spec to see how big your problem is. As a preventative measure replace both the IMS and RMS with updated seals/bolts while the transmission is off, maybe consider changing your clutch too if it's worn.
  19. When you tried the vinegar, how long did you leave it on the hood before wiping off? If it's a real stubborn deposit you may have give it some time to dissolve the deposits. Also, warming the vinegar up may speed up the reaction.
  20. I'm looking at a 2002 C2 coupe w/ 70K miles listed by a Porsche dealer. In the course of due diligence they admit that the engine was replaced around 6/2005 at 35K miles because of RMS issues. The clutch needs to be replaced. While they have the tranny out, I was thinking to ask them to replace the RMS and IMS if there are updated seals and bolts. Has there been updated parts for the RMS and IMS since 6/2005 which would make sense to get installed? Does anyone know the part #s?
  21. Thanks. What is the DME learning or adjusting? It's not like an automatic where optimal shift points can be "learned", is it?
  22. The DME just got replaced under warranty. The minute I drive off the lot, I notice the throttle feels different. Would a new DME change the E-gas throttle map? What the heck does the DME do anyway?
  23. The saga continues... Took the car to the dealer to get the TSB DME update. The DME software would not allow the DME to be updated. The upshot is that the dealer is ordering a new DME and replacing the old one under the emissions warranty. The tech asked me if the DME had ever been flashed using 3rd party software. I've never done it but I'm the 2nd owner so anything is possible. Is there any way to know if the DME has ever been modded? Apart from the DME being defective, is there another reason why the software would reject an update?
  24. It's defintely on my 996. It seems to be on Caymans and 997. Don't know about the Boxters but I would imagine it would be the same.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.