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996

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About 996

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    Contributing Member

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    UK
  • Porsche Club
    PCGB (Porsche Club Great Britain)
  • Present cars
    996 C2
    Gallardo SL
    Tuscan S
    355 GTS
  • Former cars
    Noble M400 with Stage 2 engine upgrade 476BHP
  1. Hi loren yes your right over here in the uk cars are registered according to their build date not registration date.
  2. Hi its a 997 the very first ones not a 996, for arguments sake its early 2005 registered. Does anyone here know if it is compatible? I get whine at speeds above 30mph in 3rd,4th, 5th and 6th when on the gas, when i come off it disappears, from what i have read its likely to be the pinion bearing and/or main shaft bearing. It doesnt pop out of gear and engages all gears smoothly. Only used to happen in 6th but has got worse over the last 6 months even though its more of a garage queen. Mileage is 51,000 miles. I did change the gear oil on the last clutch change which was about 3yrs ago (5k miles), i checked it on my ramp and the fluid level is correct however its not light golden colour anymore, its gone darker.
  3. My transmission on my manual 99 c2 3.4 needs rebuilding but i have been offered a 2004 997 c2s manual transmission......will it fit? Will anything else need to be changed e.g mounts/shafts?
  4. Remove the oil filler cap with the car running. Then cover the opening with the palm of your hand to check for suction. You shouldn't have any. Hi, when I remove my oil filler cap, I can feel suction when I place my hand over the filler tube, also I hear quite a loud hissing type of noise coming from the left hand side of the engine bay towards the bulkhead and the idle becomes rough. When I replace the filler cap it all goes away and idle goes back to normal, I assume from your comment that this is not normal and is a sign of the AOS requiring replacement? I have 98 C2, manual, 44k miles. The reason I ask this is because sometimes I get smoke on startup with quite a bit of water dropping from the exhaust tailpipes and most of the time my car hesitates on turn over - like the starter is sticking, but its not as I've had it tested and doesn't do it all the time, definitely not the ignition switch as I've already changed that. I' ve read on this forum that the AOS could be linked to starting problem.
  5. how much did you pay to have the work carried out? Is there a DIY available on AOS replacement for late 98 996 c2 manual? thanks
  6. porsch-apart.co.uk seem to have a comprehensive selection whenever I've used them, though saying that some parts from OPC aren't all that much. coolitautomotive.com are pretty good too Try Ramusporscha.com for new and secondhand parts, cheaper than main dealers and porschapart/douglas valley(rip offs)
  7. I did a 98 C2 to 2004 look turbo S full conversion. Contact me if you need any help with this project as I have done everything you need to
  8. air ducts are also different as they have to fit around the back of the glovebox
  9. You can use the turbo bumper grilles and the C4S centre grill. The air ducts need to be modified inorder for them to fit perfect. To do this you need a pair of Turbo radiator airducts and a pair of the standard air ducts. You then need to cut the standard C2/C4 duct which meets up with turbo bumper holes and plastic weld the turbo ones on. You'll notice when looking at the ducts look like they are made from 2 pieces (i.e. the solid plastic bit which fits on the radiators and a flimsy almost rubbery bit which contours the bumper air vents), you need to cut the flimsy part off standard and turbo ducts and then plastic weld the turbo flimsy bits on to the standard C2/C4 solid plastic part of the duct.
  10. 1/4 panels weren't hacked with a jigsaw, this is how they came just like on the turbo model
  11. I used all genuine porsche panels which consisted of turbo wings,bumpers, lights, sills, both genuine turbo 1/4 panels, inner wheel arch panels to accomodate the wider 1/4's, rear light panels, rear brake light panel, engine lid, genuine side scoops and ducting and full black leather + numerous other parts. All the parts were sourced either brand new or secondhand but were definitely all genuine, no aftermarket bodykit. The car was stripped down to bare metal and rebuilt to concours condition by myself, it truely is unmarked and identical to the turbo apart from the running gear and extra space I get under the bonnet. I have another few projects in the pipeline so will be selling it soon.
  12. I'll attempt the starter once I've built everything back together. I'm waiting on the modified release lever and clutch slave cylinder and I'm still looking for a clutch alignment tool.
  13. I didn't really want to change the DMF for the lighter SMF version as I'm happy with the cars performance as it is. I'm looking to sell it on very soon so would rather leave the running gear as manufacturer standard.
  14. It looks like I have the older type release lever, so more than likely the clutch has never been changed before (due to low mileage). I'm now ordering the modified version with the 'O' ring. I've checked the part number on the clutch slave cylinder and it is 996.116.237.04, is this the older type as well? The clutch disc has not worn down so much on the DMF side so the rivets have not scratched the surface of the DMF. I was just going to clean the DMF with some clutch cleaner before reassembling everything. Does anyone know where I can get a clutch alignment tool in the UK as the main dealers are asking £65+vat for it (about $150!!!!!!) many thanks
  15. I'll check it on the bell housing in a couple of hours. How does my DMF look from the pics I posted? Does that count as sufficient scorching to justify a replacement? thanks
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