Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

996

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    28
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 996

  1. Hi loren yes your right over here in the uk cars are registered according to their build date not registration date.
  2. Hi its a 997 the very first ones not a 996, for arguments sake its early 2005 registered. Does anyone here know if it is compatible? I get whine at speeds above 30mph in 3rd,4th, 5th and 6th when on the gas, when i come off it disappears, from what i have read its likely to be the pinion bearing and/or main shaft bearing. It doesnt pop out of gear and engages all gears smoothly. Only used to happen in 6th but has got worse over the last 6 months even though its more of a garage queen. Mileage is 51,000 miles. I did change the gear oil on the last clutch change which was about 3yrs ago (5k miles), i checked it on my ramp and the fluid level is correct however its not light golden colour anymore, its gone darker.
  3. My transmission on my manual 99 c2 3.4 needs rebuilding but i have been offered a 2004 997 c2s manual transmission......will it fit? Will anything else need to be changed e.g mounts/shafts?
  4. Remove the oil filler cap with the car running. Then cover the opening with the palm of your hand to check for suction. You shouldn't have any. Hi, when I remove my oil filler cap, I can feel suction when I place my hand over the filler tube, also I hear quite a loud hissing type of noise coming from the left hand side of the engine bay towards the bulkhead and the idle becomes rough. When I replace the filler cap it all goes away and idle goes back to normal, I assume from your comment that this is not normal and is a sign of the AOS requiring replacement? I have 98 C2, manual, 44k miles. The reason I ask this is because sometimes I get smoke on startup with quite a bit of water dropping from the exhaust tailpipes and most of the time my car hesitates on turn over - like the starter is sticking, but its not as I've had it tested and doesn't do it all the time, definitely not the ignition switch as I've already changed that. I' ve read on this forum that the AOS could be linked to starting problem.
  5. how much did you pay to have the work carried out? Is there a DIY available on AOS replacement for late 98 996 c2 manual? thanks
  6. porsch-apart.co.uk seem to have a comprehensive selection whenever I've used them, though saying that some parts from OPC aren't all that much. coolitautomotive.com are pretty good too Try Ramusporscha.com for new and secondhand parts, cheaper than main dealers and porschapart/douglas valley(rip offs)
  7. I did a 98 C2 to 2004 look turbo S full conversion. Contact me if you need any help with this project as I have done everything you need to
  8. air ducts are also different as they have to fit around the back of the glovebox
  9. You can use the turbo bumper grilles and the C4S centre grill. The air ducts need to be modified inorder for them to fit perfect. To do this you need a pair of Turbo radiator airducts and a pair of the standard air ducts. You then need to cut the standard C2/C4 duct which meets up with turbo bumper holes and plastic weld the turbo ones on. You'll notice when looking at the ducts look like they are made from 2 pieces (i.e. the solid plastic bit which fits on the radiators and a flimsy almost rubbery bit which contours the bumper air vents), you need to cut the flimsy part off standard and turbo ducts and then plastic weld the turbo flimsy bits on to the standard C2/C4 solid plastic part of the duct.
  10. 1/4 panels weren't hacked with a jigsaw, this is how they came just like on the turbo model
  11. I used all genuine porsche panels which consisted of turbo wings,bumpers, lights, sills, both genuine turbo 1/4 panels, inner wheel arch panels to accomodate the wider 1/4's, rear light panels, rear brake light panel, engine lid, genuine side scoops and ducting and full black leather + numerous other parts. All the parts were sourced either brand new or secondhand but were definitely all genuine, no aftermarket bodykit. The car was stripped down to bare metal and rebuilt to concours condition by myself, it truely is unmarked and identical to the turbo apart from the running gear and extra space I get under the bonnet. I have another few projects in the pipeline so will be selling it soon.
  12. I'll attempt the starter once I've built everything back together. I'm waiting on the modified release lever and clutch slave cylinder and I'm still looking for a clutch alignment tool.
  13. I didn't really want to change the DMF for the lighter SMF version as I'm happy with the cars performance as it is. I'm looking to sell it on very soon so would rather leave the running gear as manufacturer standard.
  14. It looks like I have the older type release lever, so more than likely the clutch has never been changed before (due to low mileage). I'm now ordering the modified version with the 'O' ring. I've checked the part number on the clutch slave cylinder and it is 996.116.237.04, is this the older type as well? The clutch disc has not worn down so much on the DMF side so the rivets have not scratched the surface of the DMF. I was just going to clean the DMF with some clutch cleaner before reassembling everything. Does anyone know where I can get a clutch alignment tool in the UK as the main dealers are asking £65+vat for it (about $150!!!!!!) many thanks
  15. I'll check it on the bell housing in a couple of hours. How does my DMF look from the pics I posted? Does that count as sufficient scorching to justify a replacement? thanks
  16. I went a bit crazy on my 996 C2, yes it really is a C2 built in 98! I did the full conversion on the standard chassis as I brought the car damaged and since most panels were to be replaced I thought I'd make it special. what do you think?
  17. Much easier to do the starter with engine out..highly recommend. I've not removed the engine, only the gearbox. just wondered if it was easier to get to now that the gearbox is out of the way? thanks
  18. The new design started in April 2000 so he should have that. Per TSB 7/00 3041 Creaking Noise In Clutch Bell Housing Area "The modified release lever was installed in production on April 19, 2000 from the following transmission number: G9600 1018220." Hi, is there a way to distinguish between the old and the later modified release lever and slave cylinder? I do not know whether the clutch/release lever or slave cylinder has been changed for the modified versions as my car was registered on 12/08/1998 in the UK and has had 3 owners before myself. Would it have been possible that they were changed under warranty by OPC? thanks
  19. As my car is a 98 C2, is it worth changing the release fork and salve cylinder? I read somewhere that there was a newer slave cylinder from 2000 onwards I think that resolved a issue with the biting point being to high? My starter motor sometimes sticks when starting the car, is it easier to remove this with the gearbox out now or does it need to be done from the engine side with the throttle housing removed? thanks
  20. more pics of the DMF, does this count as excessive scorching of the surface?
  21. I followed the TSB instructions to check for free play in DMF and its fine. I've taken some pics of the DMF
  22. Hi, I've searched the forum and Loren refers to the TSB 8/02 1360 Dual Mass Flywheel Check Procedure, I can't access them yet, can anyone help as I need to get back into my car, its been out of action now for a couple of weeks as I've been putting off the clutch replacement. thanks in advance
  23. I've removed the pressure plate and clutch, and there is no rms leak but a load of clutch dust. How can I tell whether I need to replace the Dual mass flywheel? It looks like it has a few burn marks on it and when I run my finger along the surface of it, I can feel a slight lip where the clutch disc presses against it. By the way my car is a 1998 C2 with 43,000 miles and it was remapped by previous owner to 320bhp.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.