996

Hi loren yes your right over here in the uk cars are registered according to their build date not registration date.

Hi its a 997 the very first ones not a 996, for arguments sake its early 2005 registered.

Does anyone here know if it is compatible?

I get whine at speeds above 30mph in 3rd,4th, 5th and 6th when on the gas, when i come off it disappears, from what i have read its likely to be the pinion bearing and/or main shaft bearing. It doesnt pop out of gear and engages all gears smoothly.

Only used to happen in 6th but has got worse over the last 6 months even though its more of a garage queen.

Mileage is 51,000 miles. I did change the gear oil on the last clutch change which was about 3yrs ago (5k miles), i checked it on my ramp and the fluid level is correct however its not light golden colour anymore, its gone darker.

My transmission on my manual 99 c2 3.4 needs rebuilding but i have been offered a 2004 997 c2s manual transmission......will it fit? Will anything else need to be changed e.g mounts/shafts?

Remove the oil filler cap with the car running. Then cover the opening with the palm of your hand to check for suction. You shouldn't have any.

Hi, when I remove my oil filler cap, I can feel suction when I place my hand over the filler tube, also I hear quite a loud hissing type of noise coming from the left hand side of the engine bay towards the bulkhead and the idle becomes rough.

When I replace the filler cap it all goes away and idle goes back to normal, I assume from your comment that this is not normal and is a sign of the AOS requiring replacement?

I have 98 C2, manual, 44k miles. The reason I ask this is because sometimes I get smoke on startup with quite a bit of water dropping from the exhaust tailpipes and most of the time my car hesitates on turn over - like the starter is sticking, but its not as I've had it tested and doesn't do it all the time, definitely not the ignition switch as I've already changed that. I' ve read on this forum that the AOS could be linked to starting problem.

Had the work completed today and what a difference it has made. As soon as I started it up, the car sounds very different and idles so much better. It feels more responsive right through the rev range as well. None of this I was expecting.

The job took 3.5 hours although they also sorted a very leak from the rocker cover in that time so very pleased....

how much did you pay to have the work carried out?

Is there a DIY available on AOS replacement for late 98 996 c2 manual?

thanks

sorry if this is repeated but i need a couple of parts...... whats the best place in uk for second hand parts.... ot can anybody tell me how much the rubber bellow bit under the rear spolier should cost... ive seen the section on fitting it ! mines ripped 50% width now i need to sort it asap

porsch-apart.co.uk seem to have a comprehensive selection whenever I've used them, though saying that some parts from OPC aren't all that much. coolitautomotive.com are pretty good too

Try Ramusporscha.com for new and secondhand parts, cheaper than main dealers and porschapart/douglas valley(rip offs)

It does pretty much the same job, and Im wondering if I could use them.

has anyone done the facelift that could give some insight.

I did a 98 C2 to 2004 look turbo S full conversion. Contact me if you need any help with this project as I have done everything you need to

air ducts are also different as they have to fit around the back of the glovebox

You can use the turbo bumper grilles and the C4S centre grill. The air ducts need to be modified inorder for them to fit perfect. To do this you need a pair of Turbo radiator airducts and a pair of the standard air ducts. You then need to cut the standard C2/C4 duct which meets up with turbo bumper holes and plastic weld the turbo ones on. You'll notice when looking at the ducts look like they are made from 2 pieces (i.e. the solid plastic bit which fits on the radiators and a flimsy almost rubbery bit which contours the bumper air vents), you need to cut the flimsy part off standard and turbo ducts and then plastic weld the turbo flimsy bits on to the standard C2/C4 solid plastic part of the duct.

1/4 panels weren't hacked with a jigsaw, this is how they came just like on the turbo model

:D 996GT2 .....OK say I believe it really is a C2 [ which I do.... I trust you! ] what a job youv'e done on her.... if you saw that on the road your looking at a Turbo...... I don't know what would give it away to look at Excellent! I saw the Turbo side Scoops on a web store in the UK....they were not cheap but how did you cut them in like that.....and when you put the Jigsaw up against the car were you not a little concerned what you might cut through.....Whatever the Case it looks the Business! I hear what you are saying about buying the car damaged so the money saved could be used to create the Beast......She 'appears' to be All good stuff!

I used all genuine porsche panels which consisted of turbo wings,bumpers, lights, sills, both genuine turbo 1/4 panels, inner wheel arch panels to accomodate the wider 1/4's, rear light panels, rear brake light panel, engine lid, genuine side scoops and ducting and full black leather + numerous other parts. All the parts were sourced either brand new or secondhand but were definitely all genuine, no aftermarket bodykit.

The car was stripped down to bare metal and rebuilt to concours condition by myself, it truely is unmarked and identical to the turbo apart from the running gear and extra space I get under the bonnet. I have another few projects in the pipeline so will be selling it soon.

You don't need to remove the serpentine belt or the alternator to remove the starter, that's just bogus information. Only the throttle body and the plenum piece that the throttle body is mounted on need to be removed. The fit is tight but the starter will slide out, just as the factory manual says.

I'll attempt the starter once I've built everything back together. I'm waiting on the modified release lever and clutch slave cylinder and I'm still looking for a clutch alignment tool.

Hi,

I replaced my starter motor about a month ago and had the transmission out to replace the DMF with a SMF this weekend after the old DMF was resurfaced during a clutch kit replacement (clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing) last week by my mechanic and came back out of balance.

Unless you drop the engine, you cannot get to the starter motor with the tranny out. You'll need to remove the serpentine belt, alternator, throttle body and intake plenum (the T-shaped tube) to get to the starter motor. There is a good write up on that here on renntech.

Your DMF looks pretty scorched. Mine looked better and the shop recommended a resurface, which was a mistake (although they warned me before hand). If you have to replace your flywheel, I highly recommend replacing it with the AASCO light weight fly wheel (SMF). This unit runs about USD 950 delivered in the US from horsepowerfreaks.com. I put everything together yesterday and the engine revs much more freely, acceleration is brisker etc. You have to put up with a bit more transmission chatter, and rev-matching (even in the upshifts) is something you need to (quickly learn to) master.

BTW: I used the standard SACHS clutch kit with the AASCO SMF and it works fine.

Good luck.

Joost

I didn't really want to change the DMF for the lighter SMF version as I'm happy with the cars performance as it is. I'm looking to sell it on very soon so would rather leave the running gear as manufacturer standard.

There is an upgrade to the clutch release lever, which more than likely was not replaced on your vehicle (based on the low miles)… Do you know if your clutch was ever replaced?

In any event look at your current release lever (removed from the bellhousing pivot point). The opposite end (from the throw out bearing), if you have a nylon sleeve about an inch long that the release lever sits on (and then sits on the pivot point) you have the old version. The new version does not use the sleeve but sits directly on the round pivot point in the bell housing.

The upgraded release lever is the 997 version. If you change it make sure that you order (get) the “O” ring that goes with it. When I ordered mine from Sunset Imports they forgot to mention the required “O” ring. The ring sits between the pivot point and the release lever.

I would put in the upgraded version since you are in there.

It looks like I have the older type release lever, so more than likely the clutch has never been changed before (due to low mileage). I'm now ordering the modified version with the 'O' ring.

I've checked the part number on the clutch slave cylinder and it is 996.116.237.04, is this the older type as well?

The clutch disc has not worn down so much on the DMF side so the rivets have not scratched the surface of the DMF. I was just going to clean the DMF with some clutch cleaner before reassembling everything.

Does anyone know where I can get a clutch alignment tool in the UK as the main dealers are asking £65+vat for it (about $150!!!!!!)

many thanks

I'll check it on the bell housing in a couple of hours. How does my DMF look from the pics I posted? Does that count as sufficient scorching to justify a replacement?

thanks

I went a bit crazy on my 996 C2, yes it really is a C2 built in 98! I did the full conversion on the standard chassis as I brought the car damaged and since most panels were to be replaced I thought I'd make it special. what do you think?

As my car is a 98 C2, is it worth changing the release fork and salve cylinder? I read somewhere that there was a newer slave cylinder from 2000 onwards I think that resolved a issue with the biting point being to high?

My starter motor sometimes sticks when starting the car, is it easier to remove this with the gearbox out now or does it need to be done from the engine side with the throttle housing removed?

thanks

Much easier to do the starter with engine out..highly recommend.

I've not removed the engine, only the gearbox. just wondered if it was easier to get to now that the gearbox is out of the way?

thanks

Absolutely replace the release lever. It is a new design. Also, the slave is also newly designed.

The new design started in April 2000 so he should have that.

Per TSB 7/00 3041 Creaking Noise In Clutch Bell Housing Area

"The modified release lever was installed in production on April 19, 2000 from the following transmission number: G9600 1018220."

Hi, is there a way to distinguish between the old and the later modified release lever and slave cylinder? I do not know whether the clutch/release lever or slave cylinder has been changed for the modified versions as my car was registered on 12/08/1998 in the UK and has had 3 owners before myself.

Would it have been possible that they were changed under warranty by OPC?

thanks

As my car is a 98 C2, is it worth changing the release fork and salve cylinder? I read somewhere that there was a newer slave cylinder from 2000 onwards I think that resolved a issue with the biting point being to high?

My starter motor sometimes sticks when starting the car, is it easier to remove this with the gearbox out now or does it need to be done from the engine side with the throttle housing removed?

thanks

pics of the old clutch and new clutch discs

more pics of the DMF, does this count as excessive scorching of the surface?

I followed the TSB instructions to check for free play in DMF and its fine. I've taken some pics of the DMF

I followed the TSB instructions to check for free play in DMF and its fine. I've taken some pics of the DMF

I've removed the pressure plate and clutch, and there is no rms leak but a load of clutch dust.

How can I tell whether I need to replace the Dual mass flywheel? It looks like it has a few burn marks on it and when I run my finger along the surface of it, I can feel a slight lip where the clutch disc presses against it.

By the way my car is a 1998 C2 with 43,000 miles and it was remapped by previous owner to 320bhp.

Hi,

I've searched the forum and Loren refers to the TSB 8/02 1360 Dual Mass Flywheel Check Procedure, I can't access them yet, can anyone help as I need to get back into my car, its been out of action now for a couple of weeks as I've been putting off the clutch replacement.

thanks in advance

I've removed the pressure plate and clutch, and there is no rms leak but a load of clutch dust.

How can I tell whether I need to replace the Dual mass flywheel? It looks like it has a few burn marks on it and when I run my finger along the surface of it, I can feel a slight lip where the clutch disc presses against it.

By the way my car is a 1998 C2 with 43,000 miles and it was remapped by previous owner to 320bhp.