PorscheServiceThen529Plan

Very strangely, mine actually comes down once I am sitting in traffic - very predictably, by a few degrees. I can't figure why that would be. ps. I would be happy to have pgvinters' readings!

I have the same problem, but worse. Mine hits 225 f = 107 c. There is a trick that I learned (gotta search for it here) where you hold down the Up arrow and recycling air button for 5 seconds and that makes your climate control display show 20 or so different variables, one of them is what your DME thinks the coolant temp is - that is supposed to be more accurate than the almost worthless dash gauge. That is what I watch now, but I wish I didn't. I cleaned my a/c condensers and radiators ridiculously well, but that did not help much. Also pressure tested with Stant tool - that was not the issue. Am pretty sure based on input from people here that really know what they are talking about that its the thermostat or the water pump that often need replacement at high miles (I am at 62k).

OK - Found the "leak"! - Only its not a leak. Its not coolant, its pure water coming from A/C out a drain duct between two black plastic pipes about under the passenger seat - duh! Used the new Stant 12270 and pressure sat at 19 psi for 3 minutes or so (dropped a teeny bit over 3 minutes --> one quarter of the width of the 9 font in 19 psi label.) Does that count as holding sufficient pressure? I got the VW adapter for the Stant, but I think I need something else to test the cap, but if I just replaced it with new OEM part 4 months ago I am doubting that is worth testing? Does that sound right or should I still get the part and test the new cap? I have pretty much dismissed lack of pressure as my issue. Reputable dealer did the coolant flush so I assume got the air out, but now kind of wish I got a vacuum tool. So next I went to rule out dirty radiators as the issue. I had already vacuumed the a/c condensers and the edges of the radiator through the bumper ducts and they looked good, but based on advice from this forum I removed the bumper to get behind the A?C condensers and HOLY MOSES there was a lot of dirt, former shrubbery, seeds and sand. Bought a air compressor from Harbor Freight to blow crap from back to front. Then decided I needed to blast from behind the radiator (covered condenser) and removed the radiator brackets and fans, and removed a small beach of sand from the radiators ( I drive along the coast everyday). It might be a little better but coming to work today I was at 100c-103c the last 30 min of the drive and it was only 70 f ambient so I don't think I have solved my problem. Low fans are late to kick in at over 100 without AC on. High fans kick in at 102-4c and they do drop the temp back to 100c-102c. So next step sounds like going after the water pump and thermostat? Do you agree this is worth chasing down? I am afraid that if I can hit 107c in 80f ambient, then 90f with AC has gotta get me to even higher levels. Many thanks for the input.

I had the exact same problem in the same place on mine. It kept getting worse. I would think it would be just like mine - a bad loose bearing that grease will not fix. The bearing was toast with tons of play. Loren has a very good DIY on it - you don't need to remove the bumper - you just remove wheel liner. I just did this for my 2001 C4 Cab. And I agree with Ahsai - no reason to fix driver side yet - just wait and see since its not that critical. Might want to buy some replacement plastic connectors for the wheel liner when you order the new fan, because they often break when you remove them or at least get pretty deformed. Not a hard fix at all.

many thanks for all the guidance above. got the stant. waiting on the vw adapter. went to pull up on the coolant bleeder valve realized the reason it wouldn't pull up anymore is that it is permanently in the up position and can only be depressed but then it will pop it back up . is this broken? and could this be the source of my problems?

For starters I am going to remove front bumper and give the radiators and condensers a spa treatment. And then get the Stant pressure tester that I saw JFP recommended on another thread and see where that takes me, but I expect to be able to overpressure (20psi?) that same leak up front into exposing itself. Many thanks for the help!

2001 C4 Cab 60k miles. I am pretty sure I have read all 100 threads on this but was hoping I could get some input on whether I am reaching the right conclusions applying what I think I have learned. thanks in advance! The facts: Couple months ago: - Had scheduled major service at the dealer when I bought it 6 mos ago (before learning about this forum). - Coolant is between min and max - closer to max - Months ago coolant leaked at cap --> replaced months ago no leaks since - Replaced a dead pass side radiator fan --> works fine - Fixed driver side ballast resistor --> both fans run at high and low - Vacuumed radiatiors from front (really the AC condenser in front) - did the fan from wheel well. - Last night on the 50 min commute home in 80f ambient: - Did the HVAC diagnostic 6c hack and those are the source of the temps below not the crap gauge - Warmed up to 80 F ambient in Boston for drive home last night - lots of stopping in traffic with a/c on and temp was up 107c / 225f after about 20 min and pretty much stayed between 105-107c the rest of the 30 min drive in stop and go. - turned a/c off ---> no difference in coolant temp - Once I got going for a few minutes of low rpm 40-50 mph the temp did not fall hardly at all from 106-7c, did not see the kind of cooling capacity that I would have expected (makes me think not a thermostat issue but what do I know, maybe its not opening even at really high temp?). - Noticed about 4oz of coolant on garage floor under front of car after it sat for 20 min hot. - Drove to work in 50f ambient this am and it was around 90c the whole time, even sitting in traffic it could cool from 96f to 90f. - Its going to drive me nuts all summer watching the coolant temp hang around 225 The questions: - I have seen a lot of comments that 190-200f is spec, 210 is ok, maybe at the high end, but 225 all summer can't be good right? - Is the front coolant leak a sign of an underlying problem that is causing the high temp or just temp/pressure getting too high and finding the weak spot? - If i vacuumed from the front, did I likely solve that problem or have people found packed in crap plugging radiator and killing its efficiency and I really need to remove front bumbner - tempted to do the LN 160f T-stat but somehow think that is not going to solve this particular problem, though it might mitigate the symptoms? - Is this really a problem? - Does it look like a water pump issue if all these other things seem to be ruled out? Any help greatly appreciated. thanks

Thanks JFP. Indy shop it is. Probably good to get that contact going anyways because one of these days something will come along where I will chicken out and I think I am done with the local dealer (that left my windows open in the rain and trashed the seats).

I have a 2001 C4 Cab and will be replacing the outer tie rods. Dealer wants $240 for alignment. There is a good Porsche Indy that will do it for $125, but they are 40 minutes away, and there are good local tire and alignment shops that will do it for $69. I got feedback on an earlier thread that there is some tricky-ness to it where they have to hook up to OBD to find zeroed out steering angle, but not clear to me if this is standard practice for alignment shop. Can a competent local non-Porshce shop be trusted (don't need track tolerances just a daily driver) or is is too tricky? Are there some threshold questions to ask to determine if they can be trusted? Is it tricky enough that I ought to Drive to the Indy 40 min on possibly whacked alignment? Any input appreciated. thanks, ps. for the benefit of anyone trying to solve high speed wobbling issues: mine was shaking badly over 80, but got two bent wheels fixed and its smooth as silk now , - was a cheap fix too,

So based on the sound advice above I ordered an outer rod. Then I started thinking I should have ordered two outers. The other outer rod boot has not split but I can see its weakened and will go before too long, so if the alignment costs more than the parts I might as well just do both outers. While I am there does it make sense to do the inners because they can't be too far behind, or is it the case that inners don't generally wear as fast as outers? many thanks

OK. Thanks. I suppose it would be a form of natural selection if my car was wrapped around a tree and they found a popped tie rod ball joint with flexy tape all over it. Will just do it right. I was quoted $200 for an alignment at a reputable tire place. Is $80 more like the going rate and can any decent tire/alignment handle the alignment or as usual is there something trickier requiring dealer or specialized indy knowledge? thanks

2001 C4 Cab 60k miles. Outer Tie Rod ball joint boot is split but joint is still nice and tight. If I want to maximize life of joint until I get around to the fix (its fix your boat time of year in Boston not car) what kind of grease could I pack in there and then lightly wrap with that super flexy rubber tape for sealing hoses. I know I should just do it correctly now but no time. Predicting I will be told this is bad idea, but appreciate any input. thanks,

Re Blackstone - I tossed my old oil already but if I see more signs of trouble I think I might do that. thanks

As you found no ferrous materials, I would not be overly concerned. It is not unusual to see a bit more debris in the first oil filter after an IMS retrofit. The plastic looking bits are normal chain pad wear, again nothing unusual. I would suggest moving from the OEM style filter with its known by-pass issues and switching to a "full flow" (read 100% filtration at all times) spin on set up. While it will make checking the filter a bit more difficult, the superior filtration would be highly beneficial. And even if you do not change filter styles, I would change your filter again in about 1K miles to see if this clears up. JFP - I am Feeling better! Many thanks. I am ordering the LN Spin-on and will replace the filter in 1K and see what it is up. Perfect plan for me actually as the OEM oil filter housing is just stripped enough by prior owner that I could not torque it properly without the filter wrench hopping around/off and was going to get a new housing anyway. When I saw this pile of junk in the filter my first that was that I could now see why you recommend the LN Spin-on- had no idea this much junk could be floating around and the idea of some of it bypassing the filter for a cycle in the engine is not appealing. Curious why it would be worse after IMS retrofit, thanks again.

2001 C4 Cab with 60k miles. Bought it 7 months and 6k miles ago. PPI at dealer ---> did new clutch, preventive LN IMS, full service. Runs fine but clutch vibrates/pulsates at idle. Just did oil change and filter. Dissected filter with 6k miles since dealer last did it just after PPI. Never opened a filter before but found a fair amount of debris. Please help diagnose if this is normal or impending doom! Searched and read threads but am unclear if I have a problem. Two kinds of material - brown plastic, some shavings look almost translucent. This was most of the mass by far. I concentrated probably half of what was in the filter and took pics (some under microscope) with 1/64th inch rule. Guessing that is chain tensioner? Is that too much? The second material was metal shavings (no flakes) not one spec of it was ferrous - none of the particles had the slightest interest in a strong neodymium magnet. I am thinking must be aluminum - I can see its clearly shaved/cut particles all in two shapes - only 10 or so 1/8 inch long or shorter needle shaped barely 1/64th wide (more microscope pics with rule). Then there were a couple hundred (maybe 5 to a pleat) very small non-ferrous metal particles/flakes. the metal particles are about 3 thous thick and 10 thous wide and long. I am really hoping someone knowledgeable says this is within ok range. Any insight GREATLY appreciated!! thanks,

I put Vredestein Wintrak Extremes on my 2001 C4 Cab. Very Pleased. Does daily driver commute round trip to boston all winter and this was a nasty winter. Shoots up pretty steep hill that I live on in heavy snow no sweat. Thinking about putting a plow on it.

had clutch (and IMS) replaced at 54k miles, and I am now at 60k miles. I don't know much, but isn't the throwout bearing (same as thrust I assume) and the sleeve it sits on not doing anything when the clutch is out? or maybe I see what you mean and as long as the shaft is spinning that the bearing sits on it would vibrate if there was play in the sleeve load or no load. If that is it is that just an annoyance to live with until I see a performance degradation? many thanks

2001 C4 Cab 60K miles, Got new clutch at dealer 6 mos/6 k ago. Intermittently about 10% of the time that am at a stop light in neutral, foot off clutch and the clutch pedal pulsates/vibrates, and it makes a low frequency ticking sound (about 3 times a second tick-tick-tick sound behind the dash) that moves with RPMs. The weird thing is that the slightest depression of the clutch makes the sound go away, but you can feel the pulsating still. I have read other threads and am stumped. I don't know much but am thinking it can't be throw out bearing because that is not loaded in neutral at idle foot off clutch right? and would not dealer have replace throwout bearing any way? dealer said flywheel looked fine 6k ago. I have seen similar problem on another thread fixed by replacing clutch master but cant bring myself to do it without seeing a way a stinkin clutch master could vibrate on its own. I think its just conducting shakes from the clutch - seem more likely? Any idea what this is? guidance appreciated as I am afraid to let it fester. Other than this shaking , the clutch performance is fine.

2001 C4 Cab. 58k miles. I have this exact problem, ticking that happens at idle, but slightest depression of clutch pedal makes it stop. Got new clutch 4 months 4 k miles ago. The noise started a few weeks ago,. Any idea how in the world the clutch master could be making that noise? Reluctant to replace without seeing how it could be the problem. Thanks.

Many thanks. I can see my next project after the other radiator fan! I didn't really know it when I bought this car that I would be buying a series of DYI projects, but I actually like them - almost as much as having everything working just right for a while. Man, if you bought one of these and did not like doing this stuff you would be screwed (or not mind racking up some hefty bills). thanks.

Thanks again JFP! I don't see the image above, but there was another thread where someone got in trouble not using the right tool and your post said "I am guessing that the tool did not look like this:" It is that one right? thanks

2001 C4 Cab 58K miles. At 5 months of ownership I am still finding good stuff to fix that did not show up on dealer PPI. While replacing the right side radiator fan I noticed that the boot on the tie rod ball joint is split. The split looks to be held shut still by the compression of the boot. Can I replace just the boot or next best thing (ease-wise) just the ball joint (assuming that when I get in there its still greased up and not corroded- that is if its even possible to inspect without destroying the boot)?, or do I need to replace the tie rod? if so just the outer? And if so, I am barely getting back on the horse after 20 years of not working on cars/engines and from the threads I have read it looks like you can get in trouble pretty quickly with tie rods, or maybe if you use/rent the right tools its not too bad? any guidance greatly appreciated! Pretty sure I will need an alignment if I replace a tie rod too.

So i got the replacement radiator fan from suncoast and it was not bad replacing the old one. Took a little work to get the fan support bracket out but all went fine. The DYI was very helpful and bentley manual was good too. Hooked up the old fan to a drill battery just to see how bad it was and it nearly shook the bench apart. New one is nice and quiet. Now i need to trouble shoot the driver side one but am pretty sure its the ballast resistor because relay clicks fine. Have figured that the white wire is pos high speed and green is low pos. so i will test driver side fan with drill battery in place to confirm resistor vs motor issue. Many thanks for the help!

So off with the front bumper it is. thanks!

Anyone know if you can replace the fan motor/blade assembly without removing the radiator? Looks maybe possible to unclip the fan housing from the radiator, (maybe even remove it? and then get to the motor and fan to replace it, but maybe its too tight without removing the radiator? I broke off half of the plastic housing cover (the part that covers the back of the motor) trying to pop it open in place. Not sure if its worth it but if I take housing out I will epoxy the broken cover piece back in place and reinforce the joint with a strip of glass mat (not pretty but should be plenty strong). thanks,