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PorscheServiceThen529Plan

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About PorscheServiceThen529Plan

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Boston, MA
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2001 911 C4 Cab
  • Future cars
    More 911s When Future Wife Allows
  • Former cars
    All Seem Unworthy Now

Recent Profile Visitors

441 profile views
  1. So it picked the car up from the dealer and they fixed everything, except brand new problem as soon as I start it up in the dealer's lot: the climate control screen has gone haywire, there is a yellow half moon on the left side of screen and the rest of the screen is totally illegible. When I brought it in the screen was fine. I saw the voltage at 16v briefly (maybe the regulator was toast), could it have been fried by that or more likely some damage done when replacing condenser/working on it? I know these go on our cars, but they must have done something to it I think. any thoughts? thanks
  2. Just talked to dealer - the alternator failed. Since it happened right when they were in there, they just put in a new alternator no charge today. I was happy to see that there was no haggling required. When I win the Mega Millions ticket that I bought today I will definately buy a new 911 from them. thanks
  3. 2001 C4 Cab 79k miles- So after 3 years of doing my own work, I got lazy and was tied up on a project rebuilding a 74 Honda CB750,and brought my baby to the dealer for new coolant expansion tank, and a/c condenser, and radiator cooling fan, and vacuum canister, and took the beating. They did not want me to take the loaner on a road trip to Acadia so I arranged alternate car for the trip - so they were really nice and threw in an amazing full detail job. They really went hog wild - the engine compartment looks brand new. I think they even did the headlight lenses. That was the good news. The bad news was that after 3 minutes of driving I see the battery warning light flicker, then come on fully, the AC cuts out, and the warning lights go crazy, the ones that stayed on were: PSM, ABS, Battery, and the Voltmeter was at 16 (it is normally starting at 13 then gets to 12 when hot - ground strap?). After a driving a few minutes to the dealer the volts were 11.0 or so, and improved to 11.8 when I turned off a/c. No CEL. Engine runs fine but A/C and fans cut in and out. I brought it back to the dealer and am waiting to here something like "you need a new alternator", but I suspect whatever spraying/power washing that made the engine spotless could be a culprit? My first thought was battery terminal connection, but I tightened up positive - not fixed. Should have tried negative too, but forgot. any thoughts? thanks
  4. The weather here in Bergen, Norway is rainy all year round. Whenever I buy a new car, I always buy proper rubber floor mats. You would be surprised how much water you actually bring into the car with you from your shoes. The 996 do not offer original rubber floor mats, but you can use the set for the 997. I have that in my car, the inside of the car is dry, atmosphere is better and fogging is not an issue. Would strongly recommend it. Very true. I have Weather Techs which are great - was just lazy and half wanted to kill the old mats to justify new ones for summer. wont do that again.
  5. Me too! C4 with Vredesteins snow tires - drove through every Boston blizzard to work just for the fun of it. It was awesome - may even slap a plow on it next winter. Mats just started stinking one day, Lloyd Ultimats on the way from Pelican
  6. I just had a similar problem. Turned out it was my floormats which after being saturated with our endless Boston winter actually started stinking like an old shoe. It was brutal - and thank god solveable. My fault for not bothering with the winter mats. This reminds me gotta by new ones.
  7. Hey rennbob, what you describe is exactly like my 01 C4 Cab with 64k miles. Just did new water pump and 160 LN Tstat. Even with all that and a massive spa treatment for ac condensers and radiators I am surprised at how quickly the temp jumps up in any traffic. much like the stas you quote. Definately runs cooler overall withnew tstat but as might be expected not much relief in extremes
  8. dporto be careful when you are fooling around with the headlamp connector, on my 01 C4 Cab I somehow (without much effort) broke the plastic tab that holds the female part of that connector (car side of the connection) to the frame and now have to reach in with fingertips of one hand to force the connection together anytime I need to put the headlamp assembly back- I recommend avoiding that PITA. I am learning the art of not forcing things too slowly.
  9. +1 on that. Just did it couple weeks ago. While you are there you will want to do the thermostat if it has not been done. Get the LN Engineering 160 degree thermostat. Search on it but let me save you some time condensing 100 posts- doubters -->"Bla Bla Bla that can't matter", True Experts (which I am not) -- > "get the LN 160", I live in Boston it makes a big diff, in FLA it will too, does not solve every problem like max temp in every peak situation, but much cooler for sure. Actually to be fair to the doubters I had some doubts as to whether it would work and I can see the logic of their thoughts, but there are some True experts that recommend it and sure enough - they were right. Mine was running too hot and its fine now.
  10. 2001 C4 64k miles. Just noticed from the good book that such a thing as a front underbody shield exists but mine does not have it. I daily drive all winter so think I need this. Pelican parts website thinks my car does have this but a coupe 2wd does. does this sound right?
  11. So to close this out - and for the benefit of the next guy chasing these problems down. I replaced the water pump with new OEM pump and installed LN Engineering 160F T-Stat. Problem solved. Old water pump impeller blades were perfect, but bearing had a teeny bit of friction so that was not the problem (at least yet). T-stat must have been the issue. Take a look at the comparison shot of the two t-stats? Does the relative shortness of that old pin look suspicious - does it push against fixed point on engine so that when t-stat expands the only way to move is the valve off the sealing surface? old one too short to push or is that normal? Final results in 50F ambient after 30 min heavy traffic stabilizes at 92C, in same conditions 70F ambient it stabilizes at 97C, where as old one stabilized at 106C. So bottom line so far 10C or about (18 F cooler) with LN T-stat. Might be nuts but I am feeling better. Many thanks for the help (again!).
  12. yes thanks. my biggest worry was picturing the top of the engine bits getting smashed against I don't know what. Paranoia can really slow you down, but then the lack of it can get expensive too.
  13. Ahsai - As you suggested I moved the jack to that lifting point behind the sump instead of wood under the sump- thanks. That was making me nervous anyway. I tried your suggestion and loosened the nut on the engine mount that holds the engine carrier bracket on the motor mounts, which I was sure would solve the problem. Strangely the bracket and engine moved in perfect tandem preserving the misalignent between the bracket and the bolt hole in the engine, even with quite a drop in the bracket on the mount's bolt. Was totally puzzled, but thought I must need to jack the engine up higher to get the centering bolt hole to align with the carrier bracket hole, but all the instructions said just to slightly support the engine and I was already 1/4" above support only. Out of frustration, I overcame my fear and jacked another 1/2" or so and whammo - problem solved. I was paranoid of damage from jacking the engine too far up into the car if the bracket was not holding it down, but it worked. Chicagospeed996 - thanks, that was pretty much the problem (ps grew up next door in Wheaton IL - great place)
  14. Yes all 5 nuts holding engine carrier bracket are way loose. Weird that it fit before but will try engine mount,many thanks.
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