Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

PorscheServiceThen529Plan

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    79
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by PorscheServiceThen529Plan

  1. So it picked the car up from the dealer and they fixed everything, except brand new problem as soon as I start it up in the dealer's lot: the climate control screen has gone haywire, there is a yellow half moon on the left side of screen and the rest of the screen is totally illegible. When I brought it in the screen was fine. I saw the voltage at 16v briefly (maybe the regulator was toast), could it have been fried by that or more likely some damage done when replacing condenser/working on it? I know these go on our cars, but they must have done something to it I think. any thoughts? thanks
  2. Just talked to dealer - the alternator failed. Since it happened right when they were in there, they just put in a new alternator no charge today. I was happy to see that there was no haggling required. When I win the Mega Millions ticket that I bought today I will definately buy a new 911 from them. thanks
  3. 2001 C4 Cab 79k miles- So after 3 years of doing my own work, I got lazy and was tied up on a project rebuilding a 74 Honda CB750,and brought my baby to the dealer for new coolant expansion tank, and a/c condenser, and radiator cooling fan, and vacuum canister, and took the beating. They did not want me to take the loaner on a road trip to Acadia so I arranged alternate car for the trip - so they were really nice and threw in an amazing full detail job. They really went hog wild - the engine compartment looks brand new. I think they even did the headlight lenses. That was the good news. The bad news was that after 3 minutes of driving I see the battery warning light flicker, then come on fully, the AC cuts out, and the warning lights go crazy, the ones that stayed on were: PSM, ABS, Battery, and the Voltmeter was at 16 (it is normally starting at 13 then gets to 12 when hot - ground strap?). After a driving a few minutes to the dealer the volts were 11.0 or so, and improved to 11.8 when I turned off a/c. No CEL. Engine runs fine but A/C and fans cut in and out. I brought it back to the dealer and am waiting to here something like "you need a new alternator", but I suspect whatever spraying/power washing that made the engine spotless could be a culprit? My first thought was battery terminal connection, but I tightened up positive - not fixed. Should have tried negative too, but forgot. any thoughts? thanks
  4. The weather here in Bergen, Norway is rainy all year round. Whenever I buy a new car, I always buy proper rubber floor mats. You would be surprised how much water you actually bring into the car with you from your shoes. The 996 do not offer original rubber floor mats, but you can use the set for the 997. I have that in my car, the inside of the car is dry, atmosphere is better and fogging is not an issue. Would strongly recommend it. Very true. I have Weather Techs which are great - was just lazy and half wanted to kill the old mats to justify new ones for summer. wont do that again.
  5. Me too! C4 with Vredesteins snow tires - drove through every Boston blizzard to work just for the fun of it. It was awesome - may even slap a plow on it next winter. Mats just started stinking one day, Lloyd Ultimats on the way from Pelican
  6. I just had a similar problem. Turned out it was my floormats which after being saturated with our endless Boston winter actually started stinking like an old shoe. It was brutal - and thank god solveable. My fault for not bothering with the winter mats. This reminds me gotta by new ones.
  7. Hey rennbob, what you describe is exactly like my 01 C4 Cab with 64k miles. Just did new water pump and 160 LN Tstat. Even with all that and a massive spa treatment for ac condensers and radiators I am surprised at how quickly the temp jumps up in any traffic. much like the stas you quote. Definately runs cooler overall withnew tstat but as might be expected not much relief in extremes
  8. dporto be careful when you are fooling around with the headlamp connector, on my 01 C4 Cab I somehow (without much effort) broke the plastic tab that holds the female part of that connector (car side of the connection) to the frame and now have to reach in with fingertips of one hand to force the connection together anytime I need to put the headlamp assembly back- I recommend avoiding that PITA. I am learning the art of not forcing things too slowly.
  9. +1 on that. Just did it couple weeks ago. While you are there you will want to do the thermostat if it has not been done. Get the LN Engineering 160 degree thermostat. Search on it but let me save you some time condensing 100 posts- doubters -->"Bla Bla Bla that can't matter", True Experts (which I am not) -- > "get the LN 160", I live in Boston it makes a big diff, in FLA it will too, does not solve every problem like max temp in every peak situation, but much cooler for sure. Actually to be fair to the doubters I had some doubts as to whether it would work and I can see the logic of their thoughts, but there are some True experts that recommend it and sure enough - they were right. Mine was running too hot and its fine now.
  10. 2001 C4 64k miles. Just noticed from the good book that such a thing as a front underbody shield exists but mine does not have it. I daily drive all winter so think I need this. Pelican parts website thinks my car does have this but a coupe 2wd does. does this sound right?
  11. So to close this out - and for the benefit of the next guy chasing these problems down. I replaced the water pump with new OEM pump and installed LN Engineering 160F T-Stat. Problem solved. Old water pump impeller blades were perfect, but bearing had a teeny bit of friction so that was not the problem (at least yet). T-stat must have been the issue. Take a look at the comparison shot of the two t-stats? Does the relative shortness of that old pin look suspicious - does it push against fixed point on engine so that when t-stat expands the only way to move is the valve off the sealing surface? old one too short to push or is that normal? Final results in 50F ambient after 30 min heavy traffic stabilizes at 92C, in same conditions 70F ambient it stabilizes at 97C, where as old one stabilized at 106C. So bottom line so far 10C or about (18 F cooler) with LN T-stat. Might be nuts but I am feeling better. Many thanks for the help (again!).
  12. yes thanks. my biggest worry was picturing the top of the engine bits getting smashed against I don't know what. Paranoia can really slow you down, but then the lack of it can get expensive too.
  13. Ahsai - As you suggested I moved the jack to that lifting point behind the sump instead of wood under the sump- thanks. That was making me nervous anyway. I tried your suggestion and loosened the nut on the engine mount that holds the engine carrier bracket on the motor mounts, which I was sure would solve the problem. Strangely the bracket and engine moved in perfect tandem preserving the misalignent between the bracket and the bolt hole in the engine, even with quite a drop in the bracket on the mount's bolt. Was totally puzzled, but thought I must need to jack the engine up higher to get the centering bolt hole to align with the carrier bracket hole, but all the instructions said just to slightly support the engine and I was already 1/4" above support only. Out of frustration, I overcame my fear and jacked another 1/2" or so and whammo - problem solved. I was paranoid of damage from jacking the engine too far up into the car if the bracket was not holding it down, but it worked. Chicagospeed996 - thanks, that was pretty much the problem (ps grew up next door in Wheaton IL - great place)
  14. Yes all 5 nuts holding engine carrier bracket are way loose. Weird that it fit before but will try engine mount,many thanks.
  15. After replacing the water pump and T-Stat I have a jack holding up the engine with a board across the engine sump. Both Bentley and Wayne's book say only to apply slight support to the engine from the sump as it can't handle too much weight. As you can see from the pics I can't get the engine high enough relative to the engine carrier bracket to center the centering bolt in the engine carrier frame. I think that's how I sheared it off trying to tighten it when it was too off center. I thought it seems simple - just jack up the engine a touch more and the holes in the engine should move up and be centered on the bracket, but I am afraid to apply too much load on the sump and when I jack the engine up a touch I see the car lift so I stop and am paranoid. Could I please get some guidance? Keep jacking? move the jack to the lifting spot rear of the sump and jack? Why wouldn't the engine lift relative to the carrier bracket? -Aren't the engine mounts bearing the load so what is the bracket doing? many thanks for any help.
  16. So the one I sheered off is the Yellow arrow - centering bolt. (THANKS TO PELICAN PARTS FOR THE PIC I COPIED.) Wondering if that is really worth extracting if enough of it is out of the hole to pass through the engine carrier and act to line up the carrier. I do think its 1-2 mm off dead center does that matter? Tempted to loosen up the 15 mm nuts and extract the bolt and re-align perfectly, but not if its a waste of time. What do you think? thanks,
  17. I will add a pic to show which bolt. Its one of the bolts that hold the engine bracket to the engine. the more I think about it, the bolt that sheered was only 10mm and is in the center while the rest are 15mm nuts that do all the work holding the engine, so I am thinking that the 10mm one wasa centering bolt that i should have done first. It was not properly aligned because the bracket hole was a touch off center of the hole axis and like a dope I was hoping that tightening that bolt would realign it but the others were too tight.
  18. So I was just finishing off replacement of the water pump and LN t-stat, and when I was tightening up the bolts on the engine bracket, there is one smaller 10mm bolt in the center that I sheered off when tightening it, the 4 or so 15mm nuts tightened up just fine. What is the job of that smaller bolt and should I bother with an extraction job? Not much clearance and the sheered bolt surface is flush with the rear surface off the bracket so it still supports it, but does it have a separate purpose as a centering bolt? Any guidance much appreciated,
  19. I was tempted to do that to buy a little time, but was dissuaded by knowledgable posters, and it was a good thing. Turned out that the control arm bushing that looked fine was actually split on the interior side - I only looked at it from front and back and it was actually a touch rusty when it did an autopsy on the joint. I just did a new left control arm as advised and problem solved. Having just paid $250 for an alignment after doing inner tie rods and then discovering I still needed to do a control arm - I can't bring myself to pay $250 again after just replacing the control arm on one side. any advice appreciated if this is not a good move - does not seem like toe would change at least? ps. also just noticed that there is supposed to be a front splash shield - it is missing on mine and that cant help with exposure and wear all winter. Will order that with my new water pump and T-stat to get my car out of the 106 centrigrade it is hitting all the time in summer
  20. OK for the benefit of the next guy who is chasing down a squeak that comes from vertical motion (pressing on the fender), here are a couple things I learned replacing the control arm. - To diagnose the source I had my son press on the fender to make the squeak, by reaching around tire and feeling the vibration from the squeak source it was unmistakably that the control arm that was the source of the squeak, as opposed to strut mounts or sway bar bushings. - There was not enough room to get either kind of ball joint tool in there to pop the ball joint, even with grinding away parts of the tool to get in on further. and disconnecting all the other joints to swing it down , and turning the steering wheel. I hated the idea of the pickle fork and wasted way too much time trying to avoid it. Should have just listed to Wayne Dempsey's advice and go with the pickle fork - four easy hits and it was off. - Second PITA was trying to tighten up the bolt that holds the control arm to the chassis - you can only do it when the wheel is 95% loaded to align the indicator marks, which means almost no room to get under there with a torque wrench and get enough leverage for 89 ft/lbs, even when lowering the wheel onto blocks as high as my jack would go - so my Rube Goldberg solution was to zip tie a ratchet extension with a 22m crows foot to the bottom frame to counter hold the nut from the front with no hands, and then get a ratchet on the bolt from the rear to tighten it, but could not get enough leverage, so I slipped a webbing strap around the bottom of the wrench handle through the wheel gaps and did a rowing pull with my feet against the tires on the strap wrapped around the wrench, and I got the click! Absolutely Ridiculous - but very relieved it all worked. Just waiting to hear the easy way I should have done if I knew what I was doing.
  21. I will check that. thanks, Is there a way to check the shock mounts without pulling the shocks out? Is replacing shock mounts hard? And if I do that can I get away without realignment? thanks,
  22. So I replaced the outer tie rods because the ball joint bushings were split and as JFP predicted they were pretty much toast. I was sure that was the source of the squeak because it was totally silent with new outer tie rods with much driving and pushing down on fender. So i go get the $250 alignment at the dealer, and then today the squeak is back as loud as ever. Inner tie rod ball joints felt fine and every visible bushing looks ok. stumped. Any guidance appreciated. If i replace the lower control arm would I need another realignment?- holding out hope that there is no adjustment there so I would not need aligmnent done again. If i replaced sway bar bushings would i need another alignment? $500 in alignments would really be a bummer.
  23. I have a 2001 C4 Cab with 62k miles. I already ordered outer tie rods because the ball joint bushing is split, but I have been waiting for the right chance to install them. In the meanwhile (over the last month) a progressively louder squeak has developed with any vertical motion of the front left wheel. When I push down on that fender, it squeaks. So any help appreciated with these questions: - Does the squeak sound like lower control arm? - If I pop the wheel off, will I be able to move the unloaded suspension by hand enough to find the squeak? - If I am in there anyway, would it just be prudent preventive maintenance to replace the lower control arms (on both sides of course) and get it all done before a new alignment? - anything else I should be doing while I am in there? - Pelican Parts says to jump off bumper to see if it oscillates for bad shocks but I am not liking the stand on the car part. Any other approaches? many thanks
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.