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  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster
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Terry's Achievements


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  1. I believe only the Tiptronic has the filter. For us three pedal drivers - - - no need to look for it!
  2. Yes, you can just pull it off. It is part off the vacuum system and connects the check valve to another of the small "Y" tubes as the bottom of the vacuum reservoir. Attached pictures shows mine removed and parts for the vacuum system rebuild and shut-off valve replacement I will be doing this weekend.
  3. It's handy to know that this type of vacuum line in called Teklan. While the Porsche Catalog does not list a Porsche Part number for it, the line I picked up from Fletcher's had part number: 000-043-205-01 While you never know, I doubt I would pass smog with the P0401/1411 CEL on my car since it is not an intermittent problem. Even after I clear it, the light returns again very quickly. Unfortunately, replacing the electronic change over valve did not fully fix my problem as I still have code P0401. I have ordered the air shut-off valve and some additional fittings to complete rebuilding the vacuum system.
  4. Part 3. Throttle Body: I not sure why this is so often a struggle for people? Total time for me to take it out, clean it and put it back in probably totaled less than 45-minutes with a cold engine. The workshop manual says to just remove the air intake tube where it attaches to the throttle body and then remove the throttle body with the cross tube as one unit. I believe this is easier than having to remove the entire air intake tube and then trying to unbolt the throttle body with the cross tube in place. See pictures of throttle body out and disassembled for cleaning. Putting the intake tube back on takes a bit of effort. If you have not done it before it does need a little force, but it took me less than a minute for this part. The nice thing about doing it this way, is that you can clean the connecting tubes and reach part way into each of air distributors.
  5. Part 2. Vacuum system: The typical diagram (attached) does not really match my car (2001 Boxster). You will find two “Y” connectors instead of one. The lower connects directly to the vacuum tank with one arm of the “Y” going to the second “Y” and the other to the Electronic Change Over Valve. If you have oil on the vacuum lines, then you should replace the rubber protective tubes (what the stiff vacuum tube pushes into.) These expand when in contact with the oil and may no longer hold a vacuum. Rant: Went to Steven’s Creek Porsche (Santa Clara, CA ) to buy some of the small diameter, stiff, vacuum line since I broke one of the sections. The person running the parts desk said he had never seen vacuum lines like I was describing (the lines are shown in the Porsche Catalog, but without a part number) and wanted to sell me the larger, more flexible line. A second person working parts backed him up saying they had never seen a vacuum line like that before. Next I called Fletcher Porsche in Fremont, who said they had a meter of it in stock. I’m finished with Steven’s Creek. Last week a bought a lower hose clamp from them for my AOS replacement, and they changed ~$8 for the same clamp that Sunset Porsche charges ~$2 for. Rant Over.
  6. No, the secondary air pump is working great. My car is back together and running again so I thought I would post some more pictures and observations. I'll post these in three parts due to the picture size limit. Valve Replacement: First of all, replacing this valve is a bear the first time around since there is very little space to work in - - - 2nd time around will definitely be faster. I have attached a picture showing the valve removed. Notice the swollen rubber connectors and small section of broken vacuum line - - - more on that later. Looking at the picture of the valve going in, you can see the fixed mounting tab that it slides onto. This takes a lot of effort due to the cramped space. Notice the locking tab at the bottom of the valve. To remove the valve, you must locate the tab and push down (or in my case, and maybe an easier way, it broke off), and you must remember to push your new valve all the way on until it locks in place. Alternator: Getting this back in is significantly easier if you use a press or C-clamp to drive back the sliding nut/lock back a small amount (see circled area on the photo).
  7. Well, since I did not receive any response on this, I decided to try it anyway. I removed both cross tubes (throttle body and resonance tube), and can positively confirm that the Electronic Change Over Valve can not be reached this way. You would also need to pull the intake distributor, which looked daunting. :o Next I removed the seat, fire wall engine cover and removed the Alternator. From here you can see the valve, but it still does not look easy to replace since it is wedged under some tubing and wiring. More tomorrow, with some pictures, as I continue. On the plus side, it did give me the a chance to throughly clean the throttle body and wipe out as much of the intake distributors as possible. :) Since I changed my AOS last week, I should be good to go once I get it put back together again.
  8. This week I'm trying to fix CEL codes P0410 and P1411 so I can get my car in for its Smog Check later in July (2001 Boxster, 47K miles). I have checked the Secondary air injection pump and know that it is working properly, so next I'm replacing the Electric Change Over Valve. Does anyone know if I can do this by just removing the resonance tube, or will I need to do this through the passenger compartment? I'm not found of having to remove the seat, poly rib belt and especially the alternator if I don't need to!
  9. I use the same jack stands as Loren - - - with a slight modification. I drilled and treaded the top of each jack stand and screwed in delrin inserts that fit the slots of the cars jack points. You have to me more careful when lowering the car down to ensure they are centered, but it is a very secure system.
  10. Can anyone recommend a high temperature adhesive that I can use to re-glue the rubberized engine isolation attached to the top sides of the engine compartment? Last time I had my engine cover off, I noticed that it was becoming detached, sagging down and touching the intake manifold. This in not on the engine cover, but rather the engine compartment itself. Thanks, Terry
  11. Thanks, that is what I assumed. To bad, I wanted to avoid taking of the steering wheel if possible.
  12. I was driving to work this week when I hit the wiper switch by accident, and now they will not shut off. The wipers stay in intermittent mode in the low position and off position, and function normally in all of the higher speed positions. I pulled the fuse to stop the wipers, but with rain scheduled to come in soon I would like to get this fixed - - - it will otherwise be very inconvenient to say the least! My questions are: 1 - Assuming it is the switch contact on the stalk, can this stalk alone be replaced or do I have to replace the entire 3-stalk unit? 2 - Does anyone have a 3-stalk unit left over from the OBC hack that I can buy if the entire unit needs replacing? Car: 2001 Boxster (non-S) Thanks, Terry
  13. Since I'm AutoX'ing the Boxster I decided to replace the stock sway bars on my 2001 non-S Boxster with a rear M030 non-S sway and the front with a M030 S version. I have been looking at the Bentley manual and the rear looks relative simple but the front looks more complicated. For the rear, I'm assuming the stock drop links will work and have a torque value of 37 Ft-lb, and the sway bar brackets get new bushings and then tightened to 17 Ft-lb? For the front, same torque value on the lower drop link (37 Ft-lb). Looks like the bushings are located under boomerang shaped brackets with 4 bolts (2 for the sway bar bushings, 1 for the Diagonal Control arm, and one to the frame)? Does anyone know the torque values for these bolts and if I will need an alignment after undoing these? Do I need to tighten all bolts after the car is supported on all wheels, or can I just reassemble with the proper torque values and them just lower the car? Summary or Torque Values - Rear: Drop link bar ends - 37 Ft-lb Bushing Bracket Bolts - 17 Ft-lb Summary or Torque Values - Front: Drop link bar ends - 37 Ft-lb 1st bolt (from the front) on Boomerang bracket - ?? 2st bolt (from the front) on Boomerang bracket - ?? 3st bolt (from the front) on Boomerang bracket - ?? 4st bolt (from the front) on Boomerang bracket - ??
  14. I have a 2001 Boxster with 33,000 miles. I have religiously followed the low mileage maintenance schedule of oil change and general inspection one per year and filter changes, oil change, brake fluid flush every 2nd year. Now that my car is 6-years old, are there any other preventative replacements I should be doing? I have though about a fuel filter and polyrib belt replacement, but was also wondering about the coolant hoses?
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