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About LemmyCaution

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    Contributing Member

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  • From
    Playa Del Rey, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 Boxster (B&M, ROW030 etc)
  • Future cars
    993 Carrera S
  • Former cars
    1969 Alfa Romeo 1750
    1985 BMW 323i Hartge prepped

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  1. 101,600 on my 1999. I have driven almost every mile with a ) on my face.
  2. This is an interesting thread - I have a 99 (95kmiles) with ROW 030 that was installed at about 11k. Since others have established the ROW 030's handling supremacy, I will concentrate on the more superficial: For the O.P.- scbodnar: My experience with 'settling' etc. is that the suspension settled an additional 1/2 inch or so after 20k miles and has remained at that height since. That the rear is a bit higher than the front is beneficial (IMHO) in a number of ways- it changes how the car presents itself to the air which at higher speeds allows the rear to assert more downforce (can't prove
  3. Place some screw clamps around both ends. Place some screw clamps around both ends. I broke the dipstick tube on mine last year. About $30 from Sunset and less trouble to replace than epoxying sleeves etc.
  4. Thanks for all the additional info etc. FYI the vacuum line is called Tekalan - I will tackle this job in a couple of weeks myself. FWIW 99 recently passed CA smog even though I had just reset the P0401/1411 CEL -
  5. Believe it or not - I don't have the Bentley manual. I really should- -it would have spared me breaking the guide in the first place. Though, I expect that over 9 years and 73k miles it has become much more brittle. I remembered that I have the Porsche Technical manual on pdf - I thought it was the PET Katalog. Now if I can find the Katalog CD... Here's how it describes removing the engine side of the dipstick guide tube: "Discconect plug connection at oil dipstick guide-tube..." It will probably be really obvious when I get the new part.
  6. It has a knurled knob - is not difficult to access.
  7. Voltages all checked out fine - (from memory): Relay #2 +12 Relay #3 -GND Relay #5 & 7 showed voltage when switch was actuated. Relay #4 is the LED and I know that works... So - I removed the entire PSE 1st Gen wiring harness (except the rear harness which I had already removed) and put everything back together. Works perfectly - If I could offer a full explanation of how the first gen wiring harness defeated the new installation but, it really doesn't matter. There are a couple of minor loose ends that I will address this weekend -bolting down the vacuum switch (it's
  8. Thanks - I should have done that yesterday. I'll let you know where the problem is. Probably won't get to it until the weekend.
  9. Thanks - that's the diagram that I used. (That and the enlarged one above). Do you think the pink/grey connector is an issue? I had planned to install as you suggested - without it so that the switch would effectively just be an on/off switch. When I have some time, I'll remove the relay block again and have a look - unless it's the pk/gy wire, there's got to be a reasonable explanation. The only one I can think of now is that I could have swapped RD/GY for GY/RD at the relay but, I was very careful.
  10. Wired per diagrams you provided in post 2 and post 8. FYI I did not use the relay diagram that I drew after reading on one of the other PSE posts that the diagrams referred to the numbers on the Delrin router base. I will edit that diagram per notes as soon as I can. I was very careful to verify that there is a hot lead fuse 10, row B -to the changeover valve and to the switch and relay and that ground is good. The only issue separating this from any other x96 installation is: - Gen One PSE was originally installed - looking at the TSB, there doesn't appear to be any conflicting wir
  11. A further note Pressing the switch does not engage the system- system is installed per the above diagrams and I have verified all connections between the relay, the dash switch and the changeover valve. Switch has backlight, LED lights when switch is pressed. Changeover valve appears to be correctly routed between the engine and the exhaust actuators. Actuators engage when attached directly to vacuum. I am mystified. The only thing the I did not connect is the pink/gy wire per Loren's prior suggestion. When I feel like dealing with this again, I guess I will attach that wire and see what
  12. One more last question. (RESOLVED as of Monday November 17, 2008) All is installed but: Switch backlighting is constantly ON - regardless of whether lights are on or off. Regardless of whether relay is plugged in or not (I suspect this involves the grey/Blue and Brown lead from the switch to the relay carrier Switch indicator lamp is constantly ON as long as the relay is plugged in. Pressing the switch causes the dash/indicator lamps to dim briefly and very slightly. Resolution/condition as of Monday AM: RD/GY and GY/RD wires were reversed! FYI will update my relay carrier diagra
  13. Makes sense - thanks. Once this is done - life will be normal again. Now the flaps are closed all the time (I'm using the Gen1 connection at this point). The car is so quiet! It will be nice to have some control over the sound.
  14. One more question before I complete the process: On TSB 2601, page 5, line 2.6: Realign jumper plug in relay carrier 1 with leads of the electrical wiring harness as follows: Wire Color Slot Diameter Function GY/PK 23 BS 1/1 .35mm Speedometer A signal GY/BU/BN 25 BS 5/1 .35mm Lighting (term 58A) BN 28 BS 1 1 .5mm Ground (term 31) The other ends of these are connected to relay. (except for the Grey/Blue/Brown which is c
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