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Stephtell
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Everything posted by Stephtell
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Nope, unfortunatly not...
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There is a way though: I can see the two small holes in the door that give acces to the two small bolts that hold the barrel in. I think you have those confused with the two bolts that hold the latching mechanism....?
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Thing is, I can't remove the doorpanel because that's a no-go... There is power to the door, I can lock and unlock it but I can't open it.... I think it must be due to the cable getting undone but how to get to it... How does my idea sound to remove the rear door so I can acces the bolts that hold the lockbarrel in place, pull the lockbarrel and fish for the cable? What's the best way to remove the reardoor? Just unbolt it from the hinges? That's only three bolts and won't change the alignement I guess..... Thanks for commenting, atleast I'm not alone in my crusade....
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Jesus wept.... Fitted a new windowregulator in the front driver's door today. All went well, put door back together and tested window, doorhandel and lock and all was well. Shut the door, reopened and again: all was well. Shut the door again, this time it won't open and it feels like the doorhandel isn't attached to the mechanism anymore (no springaction) BUT the dooropener inside does spring back but doesn't open the door!!?? The only thing I can think of now is to remove the reardoor to gain acces to the two bolts that hold the lockbarrel in place so I can remove that and hopefully manage to open the door somehow... Any advice on removing the reardoor and/or how to open the front door without breaking everything?? Any help much appreciated!
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Ah. So I won't bother then...one thing though: on the top of the bay (nearest the window) does the rubber fit over the metal lip or both the metal lip as well as the plasticlip of the covers? Thanks!
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Another one: I noticed the rubber seal that seals of the enginebay when the bonnet is closed doesn't seem to sit well... It seems too short so if you tighten the fit at one end, the other end pulls out again and on top nearest the window I'm not sure if it should fit to the metal ledge or the metal ledge combined with the plastic cover adjacent to that... I'm not quite sure how to explain, does anyone know what I mean?
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Check! Found the sticker in the maintenancebooklet (but not under the hood) and I've looked up the codes but it doesn't recognize all of them?
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...And the optionsticker is where? I've idea where to look for it :-)
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Question: does a 2004 CTT have an LSD or not?
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Lucky escape! :-)
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You Sir, are a star! Thanks for that! :-)
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HARD shifts...
Stephtell replied to Stephtell's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Ah! That makes sense! Should be an easy though somewhat messy job then! :-) -
Well I took off the outer doorpanel (easy enough) and I drilled out the rivets of the innerpanel and undid the bolts holding it in place. Thing is though, I can't remove it altogether because it seems something is rivetted to it from the inside...so I can drill it out....? Can anoby give me some pointers om how to remove the INNER doorpanel to repair my broken windowregulator? Thanks!
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There must be someone that knows.... :-)
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HARD shifts...
Stephtell replied to Stephtell's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Hi mate, Thanks for that but please remind me, measuring the fluid temp has to domwith measuring the correct level right? But it doesn't have a dipstick for the gearbox does it? So how would I know the right level has been reached? -
HARD shifts...
Stephtell replied to Stephtell's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Hmm...I could change the fluid myself BUT I have no way of heating up the oil and checking level with a computer or something... Can I just drain fluid, replace filter and fill with the ammount that drained out? -
Another one for those in the know: 2004 CTT: fitted with 4-zone aircon wich seems to work fine. I've replaced the cabinfilter the other day (FILTHY) and it was fitted with the airflow arrows pointing towards the condenser i.e. the front of the car. According to the leaflet wich came with the new filter however, it has to be fitted with the airflow arrow pointing towards the rear of the car...seemed to make sense so fitted it this way. Now it seems like aircon makes a sound I don't think it made before: when the aircon is set to 'auto' you can hear a high pitched 'sizzle' exactly like that of a fridge when it's active...? When I set it to 'econ' (thereby switching of the airconpump) the sound stops... So has anybody else noticed this sound and is it normal or is it because the filter in fitted the wrong way round? Also, is this the only filter connected to the airconsystem or is there a secondary one due to the fact it's a 4-zone system? Questions questions.... :-)
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Right then, 2004 CTT: The car runs fine and up- and downshifts in manual mode are fine. Up- and downshifts in auto mode are fine as well, extremely smooth, but under heavy acceleration upshifts are HARD... You can feel a hard 'jerk' as it bangs another one in... No errormessages, no strange behaviour, car still runs fine but holy hell... Is this normal? I would assume not but then again, no errors, running fine so...not a problem? Any and all advice much appreciated!
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Have a problem with my window as well, just checked it and the cable has snapped...do I have to buy a whole new regulator or just a certain part? Help much appreciated!
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Thanks! It's a very, very nice ride...over the top and unnessecary but brilliant none the less! Now here's hoping it won't give me grief... Seems like a very well specced car, I think the only options it doesn't have is pre-heater? It has leather dash, alcantara roof, electric hitch, 4-zone aircon and all that!
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Goodevening all! Sometime ago I joined this site after the girlfriend bought a 4.5 S with some little issues... I fixed the front interiorlight AND found a shortcut to the switch and have now tackled the noisy climate control issue...by swapping it for a turbo! Sod's law: the front interiorlight doesn't work either and after 5 minutes the driver's side window stopped working...motor runs but I think cable slipped off or snapped... Other than that all seems well for now although the tyrepressure sensors are AWOL... Goes like stink by the way! Love it!
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Sounds like a bad earth/earthing strap to me but I should hope your mechanic would have checked this?
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Sorry if I'm wrong on this one but I *think* there's an easier way... I read somewhere that you'd have to remove the entire unit/console from the roofliner and remove the circuitboard.... HOWEVER: if you pry of the lightcover itself you can then pry of the entire button-bezel with the centre button still attached. This is held in with plastic tabs and comes out very easily and repeatedly without breaking the tabs.... So no tools needed at all, simply take off both the lightcover (optional really but gives you a little easier acces) and the bezel and you can fix the light! Hope this helps!
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I've no subwoofer installed and there's certainly no battery in the boot of the car... I have disassembled a Jeep Dash before to install a new aircon unit and I have also replaced a servo on a Jeep once with the unit and dash in place and I found that if you exercise enough patience it's not too hard IF you know wich one is running amok... Is there a way to test control unit or is it usefull to remove it and refit it in order for it to reset magically or should I just try to get hold of another one secondhand? Thanks a lot for your answers!
