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RD996

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Everything posted by RD996

  1. RD996
    Palo Alto Speedo did mine and checked the calibration on everything as well. I guess the 99 faces have a peel and stick backing and I wanted no part of that! I dropped the cluster off and picked it up and I think it was $280. I tried to go with a 2000MY Tip cluster off ebay that advertised it would fit a 99 tip as well but found that although the cluster was physically identical two of the three female sockets on the new cluster physically wouldn't mate with the male plugs on my car. The pin arrangements looked the same but the alignment tabs weren't. The seller tried to get me to shave the male plugs to make them work but I wasn't going to mess with that. I went with the alu look faces from NRauto. When I first got them I was hesitant to have them installed because they looked kind of cheap but that concern went away after they were in the cluster, they looked great! I asked the owner at PA speedo what he thought of the NR vs the FVD and he said he has done a buttload of both and the only difference he saw was an appearance difference at night when illuminated. I guess the NR bleeds the back lighting a bit more which I can verify. It's not that bad IMHO so is no big deal to me. The NR faces are a lot cheaper.
  2. RD996
    Thanks Ahsai, I've bookmarked that for the time I need a full change.
  3. RD996
    Thanks guys! I didn't want to start the process and find out I had to mess with the WP. I'm getting the full LN housing so pulling the T-stat itself shouldn't be a problem either. Any sealants needed or recommended or is the gasket by itself fine? Dennis: I seem to remember buying a special adapter for the 996 and that the included ones wouldn't do the job?
  4. RD996
    This is on a MY99 C2 Tip: I'm seeing a lot of DIYs which cover both water pump and Tstat replacement but as my WP was changed recently and my coolant flushed (both by a shop) I'm looking at what's involved with changing out the T-stat only. Do I need to pull the water pump to get the T-stat housing out or can I R&R the housing without messing with the water pump? Is there anything else in the way? I'm going to install an LN ENG T-stat. I have the Uview setup to aid replacing the coolant and priming the system properly.
  5. RD996
    I found something that fit but was a bit larger which worked given that you don't have to torque it that much.
  6. RD996
    How much should I get for a 99 C2? Need to do a complete brake fluid replacement. thanks Rich
  7. RD996
    I pulled my front as well by myself and had the same problem. the gap at the hood/lights is just a tad larger then it was. I started in the center, did the wheel wells and then the bottom screws. All of mine lined up though. I'm going to pull it again when I can get someone to help by forcing it while I attach the top screws to try and get that reveal back where it should be.
  8. RD996
    Thanks guys! I'm not planning on driving it just want to get the top down for some other work!
  9. RD996
    Is it OK to turn the ignition on with the gauge cluster removed. I'm having some work done on the cluster and need to retract my Cab top. I'm not sure why it would matter but don't want to mess my electronics up.
  10. RD996
    I had no luck finding a new or used Tequipment version for my 99 Cab so I ended buying a used DAS sport bar. DAS still manufactures roll bars for the Cab, it seems like they are the only ones that do.
  11. RD996
    This was the model for the coupe and evidently is similar looking but a little bit taller which in turn limits the top from working properly. thanks for those part numbers Loren!
  12. RD996
    I'm looking at getting a roll bar for my 99 Cab and found this one for sale. Seller says it will fit all 996s and should work with the top function on my car. I know Porsche made a bar that worked on the Cabs but I can't find any info on whether it was a specific model or this general model. Can anyone tell from the pic if this will work. I found a pic showing a similar looking bar installed.
  13. RD996
    Thanks everyone, I did get them out with a ½" drive T30 bit from Harbor Freight. Once I got a little leverage they weren't that bad. New wheel is in and I really like it. It's the RAID wheel with paddles from Gert / Carnewal.
  14. RD996
    I'm trying to remove my airbag unit using a T30 allen wrench. It's one of those jobs with the multiple size fold out shafts. I can feel the bit locking into the bolt but I can't seem to break the bolt loose for the life of me given the leverage I can get on that unit. I guess my questions are: are these normally supposed to be that tight? (original wheel) and is a T30 the right bit? why do I keep reading about a T27? The new wheel I'm putting on has T30 bolts. I'm going to look for a T30 with a socket drive and a 3-4" shaft that I can get more leverage on but I'm a little worried given how tight these seem to be. Am I missing anything here? thanks Rich
  15. RD996
    This one worked for me. http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/911design.html?Category_Code=996keys
  16. RD996
    Thanks Loren. The std front sway bar is 23mm (I thought) and mine is 24mm. Would Porsche have used a heavier bar on a Cab Tip as standard?
  17. RD996
    Finally got a chance to inspect my suspension. The colors are green at the top of the coil and orange/yellow at the bottom. see attached pic. Car is a MY99 Cab / Tiptronic. Front sway is 24mm thick if that helps. Thanks!
  18. RD996
    What's the easiest way to tell if your suspension is stock vs the RoW? Ride height? Sway bars? The struts/sway bars look identical from what I have seen online. I was told my car had upgraded suspension when I bought it but I have nothing to base that on and it looks stock to me. Can't tell from driving the car since this is my first 911. (a 1999 C2 cab). I have 19's and the top of the fenders are at 27.5". The overall look of the car appears lower then stock (because of the 19's?) but higher then some of the pictures I have seen online of RoW equipped cars.
  19. RD996
    I've only been up to 120 mph and mine felt the same way. Not very confidence inspiring is it? Probably just as well as I don't need to be going that fast on public roads around here! I have stock suspension on a 99 C2 Cab. I'm surprised the C4 wouldn't be more stable at speed between the added weight in the front and the AWD. Interested to see responses. I've been told upgrading my suspension and lowering will help a bit.
  20. RD996
    I bought the CRC brand, thanks Loren!
  21. RD996
    I'm changing my air intake next week and figured I'd give the MAF sensor a cleaning while I had it out. Any do's/don't's as far as cleaning it goes? I got a can of aerosol MAF sensor cleaner, any issues using that? thanks Rich
  22. RD996
    And don't even get me started on Tiptronic or power steering fluid change intervals............ Ouch! glad I just got my tip serviced! What is your recommended interval? thanks Rich
  23. RD996
    Don't have an answer for you but I am interested in hearing any responses to your questions. I'm interested in upgraded my stock suspension 99 C2 and all the local shops are recommending this system (to the point that 2 of them won't install anything else). "These are the pinnacle of adjustability" is what I'm being told at more expense over some of the other systems out there obviously. I'm just looking to lower my car a bit from stock and have better handling for the occasional track days I'm going to start doing as well a more fun/security on the local twisties. I have driven the car hard enough now to start noticing the limits of my stock/well worn (86K) suspension. I like the idea of easy adjustment between comfort settings and performance settings offered by the PSS10 system. I am interested in your final thoughts as to how comfortable at the softest vs the stiffer setting once you have them dialed in overall. I'm running on 19's as well.
  24. RD996
    I have only about 1000 miles on it since the switch to DT40, so this isn't an entirely informed point of view. Switching does seem to have helped. I haven't had the rattle appear again. And car sat for a week through the recent "Hercules" snow storm and subsequent polar vortex temperature dips. When I started it up this morning, it ran fine, no rattle. Whether DT40 mitigates the cold start rattle or not (I am reading that it does), I am a believer in it now. The car runs and "feels" soo much smoother. I have actually never truly felt a significant difference by switching oil brands and forumlas in all the vehicles I have owned over the years. But I can feel the positive difference with DT40. Did you run the JG "breakin oil" thru it first like flat 6 recommends or just switch directly to the DT40? curious what folks think about that requirement?
  25. RD996
    My 99 is fairly loud on cold start up (worse after a few days of not driving) but still faint after being fully warmed up/driven hard. When warm I can't hear it in the car but listening from the ground it's coming from the passenger side cylinder bank. I'm running Castro 10-60 (the BMW oil). Here in Norcal it doesn't get driven on any cold days. I'm just hoping it's just tappet noise as well.
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