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A friend has a 2011 TT and claims his fuel gauge is not reading properly. We have taken both covers off and can move the floats around it seems to respond normally.This is the newer design that only has one fuel pump on the passenger side. I would think that the fuel level goes down equally on both sides (shared upper region) and then when it gets to the separation/split point, should the fuel level go down equally on each side or should the drivers side go down first and then the passenger side? He thinks they should go down equally but I am leaning towards not because the only device in the drivers side is the jet/suction pump and I think its sole purpose is to get fuel from the left side and push it into the right side pump area. That is how an airplane works so I could be totally wrong! Anybody know for sure how it is supposed to work? Right now, the drivers side is empty and the passenger side had 1/2 or so. Is the jet pump from the right side supposed to push fuel over to keep it balanced all the way down or is it supposed to drain one side down first?
fixed... lesson learned. it was an immobilizer problem. sort of.. For all to see--- as i mentioned earlier, we did not have a key, just the remote head. We had it taped (or held) up to the module on top of the ignition switch which picks up the chip in the key but apparently it has to be exactly right inside the ignition sensor ring and not just @ 1/2" away on top of it. We simply held the key fob in the exact place it would be if we had a key and it fired right up on the first crank.. That's a little embarrassing but I cant believe simply moving it 1/2" solved this problem. Doi !!
ok, everything seems to be there except the ground from the ECU when in the crank/start position. If I ground the wire at the relay, the starter will turn over with the key but it still wont start. EVerything leads to a bad immobilizer except for the fact that it is brand new and been coded and tested. Does anyone know of a place i can send the ECU to get it reprogrammed so it doesnt need the immobilizer? I would think most race cars have had this done??
This is a side project so we only work on it every so often. but yes, we have durametrics but havent hooked it up yet and yes the engine spins over fine when the pins are jumped but will not start. I will report back once we check some more things.
Correct and yes.. except according to the manual the pin numbers are slightly different.
yep, checked with a meter to confirm.. anything else?
Bringing this out of the dead files.. Purchased a salvaged donor '00 996 car for the drive train and want to get it running before we pull it out and do the swap. We had no key, so we sent the immobilzer and DME to george at specialized and he sent us back a valet key head coded to the the immobilzer so everything should be good i would think. Anyway, when we try to start it, the starter wont engage. It is not getting the signal to close the start relay from the DME so i assume it is stuck in some kind of anti theft mode? Any direction on what to check next?
rattlsnak replied to rattlsnak's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)After some more digging it looks like the newer style is 996.424.041.10 ( with supercedes to .11,.12,.13,.14) and the older style is 996.424.041.07 (.08,.09). Can anyone confirm that the earlier style shifter cables will fit in the upper half or shifter area of an '03?
rattlsnak posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I bought a used transmission for my '03 and just got it installed but didn't notice that the trans shift rod is different where the cable connects to it. I've been scouring parts diagrams and every one I see uses a ball and socket type connection but my trans has a straight pin with a groove in it so my shift cable will not connect to it. I assume its an early trans but can't confirm this as of yet. The trans has G9600100278 stamped on it. What I'm trying to find out is if anyone else has ran into this problem and how did you fix it, or what year trans is this so maybe I can order new shift cables that have the eyelet type of cable ends that will work with this trans? Or is there a bulletin on this somewhere? Help!
the headlight mounting brackets are different also, and youll need all of the xenon modules and wiring.