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Paul Grainger

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About Paul Grainger

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/11/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Mansfield, Notts, England
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    996, Carrera 2 convertible, 2002

Recent Profile Visitors

625 profile views
  1. I had DOF fitted three years ago (about 40k miles) and it’s been absolutely fine. I feel much more comfortable with this arrangement than with the ‘standard’ sealed bearing. I change my engine oil every 10000 miles and only use Millers CF Nano oil as recommended by Hartech in the UK (I had their cylinder stabilising rings fitted at my last rebiluild.
  2. The cables do indeed go slack and can cause this problem - there is a spring tensioning system on the cables that can be adjusted to take up the slack - and it's really simple to do this by just pulling out the clips (my car had three on each side), moving out the 'outer' part of the cables to take out the slack on the 'inner' part, the reinserting the clips in new positions leaving the cables tight. I did this but on my car this did not resolve the problem. There was so little movement when the door handle was operated that the window still caught the roof frame when the door was opened. Replacing the coupling rubbers was the cure for me - the window drops nearly an inch now and what's more it's really fast moving - no more problems with the glass 'catching' when the doors are opened! This problem was a real irritation to me and I had already replaced the window mech and tensioned the wires with no success! Paul G
  3. I had the same problem. There is a rubber coupling between the motor and window cable drive pulley. The rubber softens with age to the point where the window barely moves when the handle is operated, however when the window is fully opened or closed everything appears fine. The mechanism can be stripped very easily, I made replacement rubber coupling inserts just using a Stanley knife and 8mm rubber gasket material. The end result was a perfect cure that cost pennies.
  4. Loren - thanks for replying. Do you have a circuit diagram for this? I've searched and have not been able to find anything. thanks Paul G
  5. Does anyone know which connections are used on the engine ECU (2002 996 3.6) in order to operate the PSE at high road speeds only? i have a retrofitted exhaust system with vacuum operated bypass which is currently controlled by a switch - but when it is turned on it is 'permanently on' even at low speeds. I want to connect the exhaust such that the system only operates at higher speeds as with the OEM system. Any help would be much appreciated Paul G
  6. Check your fuel pump relay. I had similar issues which ended up -eventually - with being towed back home. Ended up being the fuel pump relay. My dealer said 'mmmm. They tend to fail after about 10 years. We sell a lot of them......'
  7. Yes yes thought it could be a duff AOS even though it was brand new. I researched 'definitive testing' of the AOS and found that crankcase negative pressure is the only real way to find out if it's ok. My crankcase pressure is exactly what it should be when the AOS is healthy - hence my uncertainty now on what is causing this.
  8. ........ I should add that the car only does this when it's been left for a few days without being used. If I start it - say 10 hours - after it was last run, then there is no smoke on start up.
  9. My 2002 C2 996 has started to produce clouds of white smoke on start from cold. When the car is warm, everything is completely normal. I don't mean a puff of smoke from the exhausts, I'm talking so much smoke that I can't see in my garage. I've checked the oil level, it's not high. In fact it's towards the bottom of the dipstick. I don't seem to be using any significant quantity of oil but use the car only on warm sunny days so it's difficult to know the exact oil consumption rate. I'm not losing any coolant and have no intermix issues. There's only not the normal - minimal - white gunge in the oil filler cap. I changed the AOS when this problem started, and have checked the crankcase negative pressure which is 4.5" WG and pretty much what I expected to find. The engine was rebuilt 10k miles ago and the the cylinders re-rounded and Hartech closed-deck rings fitted. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks Paul G
  10. there's really nothing complicated about the Design-Tek system - all you need is a switched 12V to the air valve solenoid. The system is supplied with a good length of silicone vacuum pipe that resists heat form the exhaust and engine bay. I wanted to use the OEM Porsche exhaust switch so fitted a 'ratchet relay' so that sucsessive pushes of the porche switch causes the valves to open or close. An additional wire back to the switch from the relay brings the LED 'active' light on when the button is pressed and the valve is open. My car is a convertible and I mounted the relay next to the engine ECU. The solenoid is mounted in the engine compartment, I took a vacuum feed from close to the inlet manifold and the system has always worked fine. The only 'problem' that I have experienced is that if the car has not been used a a few days then the exhaust is at 'full volume' for a few seconds after start whilst the vaccum system builds enough negative pressure to operative the valves. I didn't use the remote control system that was supplied with the system - I really didn't want the control the valve with a key-fob and to be honest I don't see why they supply this as part of the kit. The Design-Tek system is a really good quality unit at a low cost. I would recommend it to anyone.
  11. I had the same problem and it was the dual mass flywheel. The springs between the two sections had worn and there was near 20 degrees of backlash which gave a chattering at low speeds and on over-run. The noise went away with a new dual mass flywheel. Paul G
  12. I made a support bar to those dimensions and it fitted perfectly. I did drill all the holes slightly oversize, but probably didn't need to..... Every 996 owner who takes out his gearbox (transmission to you american speakers) should have one of these. It makes the job much safer and easy to get the 'box in and out. It took me less than 2 hours to fabricate the bracket with bits of steel that I already had in my garage. And that time included consuming two beers and offering it up to the under-side of the car..... Paul G
  13. Try checking your main engine earth (ground) connection. Mine became loose at the chassis connection point and I had the exact same symptoms. I can't believe its not a common fault, when I tightened up the connection the stud just sheared off. I drilled and fitted a bolted connection, instant cure and good starter motor performance restored. Paul G
  14. I recently fitted fully powered seats to my 996. I didn't have the memory module, neither was I prepared to buy one. The passenger side was a simple fit, the drivers side seat needed some careful thought and wiring of the switches to make it work. I have memory seats in my range rover and never use the memory function. I do, however, fiddle with the seat position......
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