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  • Present cars
    2003 BMW 330 ZHP<br />2004 Cayenne TT<br />1974 BMW 2002

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florida2002m3's Achievements


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  1. Thanks for the advice, my Hankook's on a 330 lasted about 8<>10K. So anything better than that would be great.
  2. I have searched around and some people have replied with answers close to what I am looking for. Work is hammering me right now so I dont have as much time as I would like to peruse the forums :( This is my first SAV, so I am kind of new to the rubber on these guys. I ran Hankook V12's on all my cars in the past (horrible tread wear, but amazingly sticky btw) I have 19inch rims, currently running michelon 275/45 latitude tour HP in the back, and Conti 275/45 4x4 M+S 108's in the front. I live in FL and dont really have a need for AS or M+S..... I have a need for: a summer tire with wet performance good tread life priced on the lower side?? ability to have a little spirited driving Stable (no tramlining) at highway speeds 100ish mph dont really care about sound Seems there are a lot of options and opinions, a lot of what people are listing are all seasons, and are in the upper echelon of pricing. Considered so far Michelin Latitude Sports Toyo Proxes S/T P-Zero Rossos Vredestein Ultra Sessantas Any people running summer specific tires that cost around $200ish, any advantage to staggering a CTT, any weird characteristics going to a wider or possibly a little thinner tire?????
  3. Kit installed great, parking lot at work (dont tell the boss). No errors or anything driving around the block...... Will update if anything goes wrong
  4. Ive read a handful of threads on this, my warning comes on after a few miles of driving. Warning or not, sometimes it raises up fairly quickly (20 seconds), other times it raises in about a minute. Im lead to believe the rebuild kit can solve my problem, as when a sensor goes bad there are some other problems as well. I did a google search of the VW PN 7LO 698 030, and it turned up a few of the normal sources: ECS, Pelican, RMEuro...... etc. All for $160-$200+ I then came across this link on good 'ol EBAY for $30, thats right, only $30 TYD from England http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-ALLROAD-C5-A8-Q7-WABCO-AIR-SUSPENSION-COMPRESSOR-PISTON-RING-REPAIR-FIX-KIT-/151062196437?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item232c0230d5 Has anyone had any experience with this kit? It does appear that all of the others are very overpriced for the materials and MFG. I may try it for $30, not much to lose.
  5. Its revival time!!! This is the most colaborative post Ive found on this issue, My 04 CTT has the same issue. Was anyone able to get this solved?
  6. Got into the door, found the problem. now I need the solution. Behind the door lock grommet, there is a red plastic lever. This lever is supposed to be attached to a metal lever about an inch south by a small hook thing. It appears that the axis that the two levers rotate on is missing some of the spacers, so both levers kind of flop around, thus causing the hook to become detached. Anyone know what part I need, and if so... is it a DIY, or a dealership type of thing?
  7. Charged all night on a good trickle charger, same results with the door lock. Im hoping its something glaringly obvious once I get the door apart.
  8. Nevermind, I found a DIY. I forgot to mention that the interior lights do come on just fine when the door is opened, and the alarm LED's flash as normal.
  9. Any DIY's for getting into the door and taking a look around? I think I might put a charger on it tonight, and see how a fresh charge works in the AM.
  10. Picked up a 2004 CTT last week. Of course it has a slew of problems, some can wait, but this problem is high priority. I have spent about 8 hours (of company time) reading through similar problem posts, but havent found a post with the same symptoms and a confirmed solution at the end. Im not sure if this problem just started, or if I didnt notice it over the first week of ownership. The driver door will not lock. Symptoms: Key FOB button, two horn pumps, two light flashes, alarm is armed, all doors lock but drivers door, I can hear the actuator on that door. Central locking on armrest, hear all actuators, including driver door, all doors lock but drivers door Key in door, two horn pumps, two light flashes, alarm is armed, all doors lock but drivers door After playing with the key in the door, my key fob then stopped working all together, until I used the central locking (VERY weird), now it works as fine as it did this morning. I have tried all of the COMFORT setting (all, single door, etc.) same results I removed the grommet on the door and moved the red plastic doohickey to the left, no actuator noise or anything, moved it to the right, still nothing. I did notice that there was no spring action, I read in another post that there was an issue with a broken spring, is the doohickey supposed to spring back to the central location? Can anyone confirm this? I also have an air suspension faulty, and then a low beam actuator?? error come up recently. Ive read that a low battery can cause all sorts of randomly odd havoc. So I checked the battery voltage with a multimeter under the hood and it read 12.4v, Im assuming this is normal for a non running car with the door open. I appreciate any help you guys can offer!!! Im sure I will have lots of posts over the first few months.
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