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g00sestepper

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Everything posted by g00sestepper

  1. I repaired mine using mesh and plastic welding (a soldering iron with an attachment). It looks far better now but didn't have as much damage on the outside, more of a clean break / crack. A couple of the lugs had also broken off on mine (can't see from your pic if you have any missing). To repair, I drilled holes into the lugs and also the panel and used lengths of paper clips as splints. I also used a glue and mesh on them too but be careful to get the correct glue as polyurethane from memory so most glues don't work. Overall, it looks perfect on the car now and no damage can be seen.
  2. Have you thought of doing something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porsche-Steering-Wheel-Paddle-Conversion-996-Boxster-Tip-/281377441819?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item418367081b
  3. Hi Yes, normal to go to 2nd. It does start off in 1st when using the warm up map when you first start up from cold. I drive in manual most of the time so shift to 1st myself but apparently if you floor it from standstill in auto (kick down) it will move to 1st for you. Hope this helps Rich
  4. May I suggest hi-temperature anti-seize. Hi Loren Just curious, is this where Optimol HT comes in? Also, I am looking to get some optimol TA. Can you also suggest the 'suite' of loctites (numbers) and when / when not to use them? Thanks in advance
  5. Thank you for your help with this Porschelibrarian. For anyone who requires workshop manuals / POSES etc then it is best to go through Porschelibrarian - fast, efficient, and inexpensive. As you can see from my original post, I have been scratching my head for some time with this, trying to get something which up to date. I have finally succeeded. I wish I had known about this sooner! Thanks Richard
  6. Mmm, I don't think my PDFs span to that length! Illegal? I paid for it on emanuals online so assumed it would be both legitimate and comprehensive. Are electronic versions available in full for download rather than paper? Also, where is the best place to get them and how much do they cost? Thanks
  7. Loren Please excuse my ignorance with this. The manual I got was an electronic download. I thought it might be easy for you to check given that you said that there were 99 updates and so may have a record of what the last update was called (which I would assume is therefore reflected within the contents table as this would have been updated correctly by you!). When you say 17 volumes, is there 1 volume per repair section, I.e. Group 5 - body being one and group 3 - transmission? Thanks
  8. In relation to the supplements, please could you let me know what was added to the table of contents for the last supplement? This should tell me whether I have the most up to date manual..... Thanks in advance.
  9. Thanks Loren. So what is the difference between Poses and the paper manuals? Also, where can I obtain updates from? Is this where TSBs come in?
  10. Hi I am unsure whether this post is in the correct area / forum. I have a MY2004 996 C4S and over the past few months I have been trying to source proper factory manuals et al for it. So far, I have managed to get the following; 1) PET 7.3 plus updates (342/91). 2) Bentley manual (this seems to be a pictorial version of number 4 ish). 3) 101 projects for 996. 4) Factory manuals - I managed to get some PDFs online which show print dates of 1998/99 (quick google search). I also paid for some which were available on immediate download and they are exactly the same. This download also incl
  11. Stainless worm drives are an excellent alternative, and the sizes you mentioned should suit your needs. Your best bet for correct fitment is to take the old ones off and then go to the parts store to match them up with replacements. Clean all the fittings or surfaces with a Scotch Brite pad. No sealant of any kind is needed. You may also want to acquire a hose removal tool: This is a $5 (US) tool you can find anywhere, including Amazon.com, and will make getting the old hoses off a snap. Thanks for this John, I will do. A couple of my hoses are showing signs of wear I think..... Ther
  12. Hi I am planning on completing a full overhaul of the waterworks on my 2004 c4s and I am busy accumulating all parts required (water pump, lt tstat, entire hose replacements). I have been looking into the hose clamp side of things and it seems like it could become quite an expensive job for them given how many looks to be required! However, I have come across JCS hi-grip SS clamps being sold by someone else and wrapped up in their packaging (2 for 99p / $1) which is far far less than anywhere else (nearly double that for 1). Has anyone come across these or used them before? They do have
  13. Laguna Seca..... how lucky are you! I remember playing Gran Turismo on my PS2 many moons ago...... We have nothing like that in the UK. Mine is Tip too. I plan to do all of what you mention above (i haven't even started yet, not even a pressure test). Please can you report back once complete / any learns and helps during installation? cheers
  14. Hi Following this thread since the start..... i have a leak in a couple of places (water pump, front passenger wheel well (RHD car), and elbow hose near pump). I haven't got the car up properly yet to have a look but plan to install new pump, LNtstat and hoses etc. Some very good suggestions on this thread which i will definitely take up, ask questions and report back once i have all parts above to start the job. Just in relation to the LN thermostat, i did read the following on the website when ordering; 'Even if you have cleaned out your radiators, please be advised, some late-model car
  15. Thanks John, I will let him know. I wouldn't use one but each to their own I suppose. On the topic of oil changes, I have the LN spin on on order where I understand that the filter has to be changed every 6k as it is smaller. I do plan to change the oil every 6k anyway so not an issue. My car has a full Opc service history and I plan to continue this. 1. Will they service it with this on? Do I just supply the filter when I take it in and make them aware of it? 2. I would like to continue using m1 0w40 and I have noticed on a service receipt that they used Castrol long life 0w40 last time.
  16. Thank you for your suggestion. I must admit, my friend has one similar to this; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TP69-SEALEY-MANUAL-6-5-LTR-VACUUM-OIL-FLUID-EXTRACTOR-/281325121434 And swears by it as he does 100,000 miles per annum so changes his oil quite frequently.... I have always felt a bit dubious about it
  17. As a general proposition, lifts are supposed to keep cars from tilting when being picked up. As someone that spends most of his day under a car on a lift, the idea of one that purposely tilts the car leaves me more than a little bit cold.......... Hi John I hear you, and thank you for your advice. I'm a pen pusher...... what i would give to wrench all day long! I have been doing some more digging and have found this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOBILE-SCISSOR-CAR-LIFT-VEHICLE-LIFT-not-2-post-lift-BRAND-NEW-/281329017781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item41808423b5 It doesn't need electr
  18. I just wanted the ease of the initial suggestions. I don't know why but I don't feel comfortable with the whole jack stand arrangement. Would you say that option 2 above is a no no then, or could it be used (the width of the paddles can be adjusted by quite a margin)? I would feel a bit more comfortable with this on the front using the reinforced areas and jack stands on the back though I suppose..... Cheers
  19. I would love to use one of these..... Forgot to mention above, I have no power socket in the underground either! I therefore need something that is either mechanical or that that can be used with a cordless drill to move up and down. Cheers
  20. Hi I have been looking around for a while now for a lift for my 996 c4s cab (I live in uk). I live in an apartment with an underground car park and therefore cannot get a 2 post (1, I won't be able to bolt it to the floor and 2, I need something that I can take back upstairs with me). This is a semi temp measure as plan to buy a house with a garage at some stage at which time I will buy a good 2 post. I want something that is safe, and that I can potentially utilise in the future too, along with a 2 post. Given the above, and that it therefore needs to be relatively easy to carry about, I
  21. When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery. Thanks. This is just what I was after. As codes discussed above..... Contemplating getting a durametric........ However, they seem quite pricey and my friend who has a 996 who I could share with is selling it shortly due to another baby. I am certainly not interested in the fake route, and also want to ensure that I can run the latest version of the software. The only
  22. Thanks. Just wanted to make sure that it is not a use once type of fitting like the sump washer, and more a time degrading type of arrangement.
  23. When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery. Thanks. This is just what I was after. As codes discussed above..... Contemplating getting a durametric........ However, they seem quite pricey and my friend who has a 996 who I could share with is selling it shortly due to another baby. I am certainly not interested in the fake route, and also want to ensure that I can run the latest version of the software. The onl
  24. I like to keep them 1 to 1 1/2 bars down from the full mark on the electronic level. Problem with the "full" bar is you can't see over it, so it is hard to see being over filled, which is particularly a problem on the cars without dipsticks. I like to keep them 1 to 1 1/2 bars down from the full mark on the electronic level. Problem with the "full" bar is you can't see over it, so it is hard to see being over filled, which is particularly a problem on the cars without dipsticks. Makes sense. The OP used the dipstick and said "...the dipstick shows over the full line (where it is abo
  25. I have searched the forum and also the web and can't find anything that gives a brief overview of when and when not to disconnect the battery. I was wondering if anyone could give a quick run down? I.e. Is there a simple set of rules to abide by? Thanks
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