dphatch

Guys - thanks so much! This thread was invaluable. I am new to the forums and P-cars, I was able to add the parts (used - $135 total) and picked up an Arctic Silver top for my 996 TTS for an unbelievable $200! Only a small ding and some finish imperfections, I am pleased irrespective of the price I paid. Was a 250 mile drive to get it but a memorable overnight in Chi town ;-) Tested out the new Kumhos on the drive. The fit looks great and it seems to be on tight, except there is a bit of a noise , almost a rattle coming from the back passenger's side. I think it could be the Mount cover that accepts the cap, but need to take a ride and let soemone drive over a bump at 55 or so to see.

I didn't see this addressed in the thread but please reply if you know, are there any adjustments that can be made to tighten down the top at a particular corner? Also, do the springs that pull the pointed shafts down into the receiver parts wear, or do they ever need replacement?

I wonder if anyone here has tried to sell their plastic spacers as a "Hardtop delete kit" ? I thought there might be a call for them as anyone who lets their top go can probably remove the receiver parts easily using this thread and make a few extra bucks. May try to sell mine on eBay, will let you know....

thanks again for this thread!!!!

Samidad

There is technical service bulletin available to you on this site in the documents section that explains the procedure for adjusting the top. There is also one about fixing rattles or noises from top which was the reason they changed the mounting hardware on later versions. The locking pins on the first update to the hardware has a plastic sleeve over the end of the locking pin while the original was bar metal. Not sure if these sleeves area still available. The second update was a screw type locking pin and a different receiving lock. To update both would cost well over $ 1000 . But before you do all that make sure when you tighten down the top you get the lock to the second and final indent / click point as failer to do that could be the reason you're getting a rattle from the back of the car. That fully seats the top.

The parts you will need for the newer style mounts are :

996.561.653.04 (mount to attach to the car)

996.561.654.04 (mount to attach to the car)

900.378.173.09 (8 of these just to be safe)

I bought these mounts and hardware for a total of $245 from my local dealer.

I believe the '00 to '04 tops the parts numbers were 996-561-653-03 and 996-561-654-03. It is possible to retrofit your older hardtop for the better design.

This is a very easy job - it took me about 30 minutes to do.

1. Place top in the service position ( almost closed with the rear top cover still in the open position as high as you can get it).

2. Pull back the thin molded carpet section at the center near the roll bar cover you'll notice a single screw that holds down the center of the roll bar cover. Remove the screw.

3. Pry off the top oblong covers directly over the roll bars. Work from the rearward side of the covers not the front side. There are three spring clips, left , center and right so if you work with a wide bladed screw driver start at one side, then the middle, then the other side and the covers will pop off.

4. Once the covers are off you'll see one screw under each cover on the outside edge. Remove them being carefull not to drop them in side the roll bar frame.

The entire cover will lift off now and exposing the roll bars and the carrier frame rails where the mounts bolt in.

5. You'll notice once you have the cover off two plastic zig zag shaped spacers on either side of off the roll bar carrier frame. Each is held on with 3 threaded bolts despite the fact the mounting locks require four . Remove these. Be sure to note where the "L" shaped attachment points for the roll bar covers go as you'll need to re-attach them when you're bolting in the mounts as they hold the roll bar cover in place with the two screws you removed from either side of the cover.

6. Bolt in new mounts with 4 bolts for each side. The drivers side mount has an electrical connection for the defroster. You need to run the wire down into the car and plug it in. The wire plugs in about 4-6 inches below the mount on the back side of the frame rail it is attached too. You'll may need to pull back the molded carpet to see the plug. It's a little bit a reach but do able. Plug only goes in one way so you can't mess it up.

7. Reinstalling the roll bar cover is the reverse of the removal. The cover has a channel along the front side of it to receive the trim piece that goes across the back of the car's rear bulkhead. It's easy to line up just needs to be done before you start screwing the roll bar cover back in place. The smaller covers go in front first ( where the hard plastic positioning clips are) then push down on the backs to get them to seat in.

8. Pull off the small circular covers on the roll bar cover and check to see that your mounts line up.

9. With the help of a friend, lift the hardtop onto the car as per the owners manual. Torque down the bolts in the back to 37 ft lbs per the manual.

You're all set!

Great photos. When I installed mine I had the top nearly closed and rear window folded up. I think that position gives you better access to the roll bar area.

I'm new to the forum and a new Porsche owner with an '06 Carrerra 2 with Navigation. My car did not come with manuals and I've found the basic manual on here, but have a question about the PCM which it doesn't detail. My preference is to have the navigation system remain in a North Up orientation but can't seem to find a menu option to allow this. Is this possible or do I have to deal with the screen spinning around as I make turns? If anyone on here knows how to change this I'd appreciate the help. Thank you, and man is this car awesome!!!

Good question. I'll poke around in my PCM manual tomorrow if I have time, but I find that it can be a bit vague for this techno dolt who has to rely on his sons to guide him thru that kinda stuff! You can also use the Forum's search facility. It comes in very handy. And yes, these cars ARE awesome! Welcome to the forum!

With the PCM on and the map showing on the screen push in the knob on the right that looks like the volume knob. A menu screen will come up in grey that actually sits on top of the map itself. Rotate the knob down to the "North" setting choice and then push the knob again. This will close the pop up screen and set the map always facing north.

I was looking at the 997 the other day and noticed what I thought was an indentation at the front of the hood. I can only see it at certain angles.

It's about 3" wide and runs across the entire leading edge of the hood. I have had Porsches before and know how to close the trunk. I did a search

but could find anybody else. Under warranty so I'm not that concerned but curious if others see the same.

All the 997's are the same way I believe to insure that you don't get a whistling sound from the space between the hood and the front bumper.

You need to remove the plastic wheel well to get

to the latch. The 996 site has alot about this. I have

included a link.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ch+hood+release

Good luck and hope you get it open.

Paul

I peered inside the wheel well of my '05, and though I couldn't see anything through the louvres in the plastic liner using a flashlight, I saw the 3 or 4 big screws that hold it in place. Perhaps removing the liner as PAULSPEED suggests will reveal this mysterious emergency cable release. Please let us know of your progress, because none of us are above doing dumb things like locking keys in the trunk! Good luck.

Try behind the tow hook cover in the front bumber. The release cable it often visible/accessable once the cover has been removed. Cover pops off. Cover the blade of a screw driver and use it to pry off the cover

Can someone tell me what is the clearance needed to fit a jack under a Carrera S for tire change?

Should be approximately 4 to 4 1/2 " maybe a tad more but less than 5". I use a Sears floor jack with the jack pad attachment ( round metal receiving piece that fits into a hole on the end of the jack ) removed and in it's place use a piece of thick rubber mat to protect the jack points on the car. A hockey puck will work also depending upon the jack you are using.

When tuned to a radio station I would agree that the Bose system isn't that great. Unless you turn the volume way up the sound is terrible with or without the surround sound enabled. On a CD however I find the sound to be better and prefer the surround sound enabled. As for the ability of the system to rattle the doors that doesn't impressive me as the doors rattle whether the the system is on or off. The whole PCM - Nav system is a big disappointment in my book and a poorly executed effort on Porsches part. The MOST bus optical interface just adds insult to injury by making it nearly impossible to upgrade the system which is soarly needed to bring it up to par with much less expensive systems in much less expensive cars.

Isn't there a way to download these manuals from Porsche electronically ? I thought I had seen something like that during all my internet roaming !! Although as i read the phrase " from Porsche electronically " I think I must have dreamed it. :D

Hey, it just dawned on me that the PCM2 manual is available for downloading on this site if you become a contributing member. Considering the other stuff that's available in the form of "downloadable" info when you become a contributing member it's worth it in my opinion. Not trying to sell you anything here just thought it worth mentioning.

I was leaning toward the 06 C4S. It only has 1 month left on the warranty. Should I pay to have it certified or buy an extended warranty?

I think the CPO will cause you lest grief in the long run. Besides, the car has to go through an extensive check to qualify for CPO status which, in itself, should give you an extra measure of comfort knowing that the car is in good condition when you buy it.

I did not check the motormounts. The car was fine and all of a sudden, after the service, including MAF cleaning, the problem occured.

Obviously I went back to the dealer. They told me that the vibrations were normal. But again, this was not there in the past. Therefore I suspected the MAF sensor. Anyway to on the motormounts?

Regards, frank

BS on the "it's normal" response. If it wasn't doing it before they screwed with stuff that didn't need screwing with than it needs to be put right. If the dealer won't do it get hold of Porsche's regional office and tell them your story and tell them you want it to run they way it did before you brought to the dealer for service. Once it's fixed to your satisfaction find another dealer to do business with, preferably one that doesn't use the 'it's normal" excuse when they screw up and don't want to admit it. Shaking could be caused by a misfire. PIWIS read should indicate anything that's amiss with the engine. They should check for codes. Could be a disconnected vacuum line on the intake. I'm not sure why they would mess with motor mounts during any regular service.

I am debating the purchase of an 06 C4S Cab. with 4K miles for $65K or an 07 C2S Cab. with 26K miles for $62K. Both with similar options although the C4S has full leather. I would be interested in hearing from those who have experience with both the C2S and the C4S on performance, ride, value, trouble history, etc. If this comparison is already documented in another post, please point me in that direction. Thx.

I have had no major issues with my C4S. Ride with the PASM is better on rough pavement than stock suspension and you've got the option of the stiffer setting when you want it. Lower miles is always better than higher miles and there are few, if any , differences between the '06 and '07 model year cars. Full leather will make it easier to sell but not worth many dollars to you when you do as everyone wants to get something for nothing when buying a used car. I'd buy the lower mileage C4S and try and work the price down a bit.

2002 C4S manual

Does changing the stock plenum to an after market one give the engine any boost in noticeable performance and if so how much?

Thanks

southc4s

Have read many posts on that subject and I'm of the opinion that it will not boost performance any noticeable degree. To take your question one step further there are few , if any, aftermarket add on's that will produce any noticeable performance. Claimed HP improvements based on Dyno results are impossible to verify and even more difficult to duplicate. Noticeable improvements require big $$ investments in either a super charger or bigger bores, pistons, etc... Save your money and buy a Turbo next time or one of the new direct injection 997.2 cars.

Hi,

I secured some Champion Motorsport 20" wheels for my '06 997. I was wondering if anyone can help me with correct tire pressures?

Thanks!

Pressures for the 19" wheels are 33 front and 40 rear. However, with the lower profile rubber you may want to to the high side of the spec which would be 36 front and 44 rear.

For what it's worth, the dimming of lights and radio on a car when the engine is running would be the tell tale sign that it was a charging circuit issue and not the battery itself. The only purpose of your battery is to start the car and run stuff like the radio when the engine isn't running and turning the alternator. Your alternator keeps the engine and all the electrics in your car running once it has been started and recharges the battery at the same time.

:huh:

Last weekend I was supposed to enjoy three fun days on the track. I got my CPO 06 997 C4 coupe with manual transmission prepared by installing yellow pagid brake pads and flushing the brake system (I used ATE TYP200). The brake pedal felt mushy after that. I bled the brakes again, the pedal got firmer, but I started to notice that the brake pedal would sink to the floor if I held it pressed for a few seconds. Suspecting of a problem with the master cylinder (MC), I brought my car to the dealer for an inspection and possible replacement of the MC under warranty. The dealer flushed the brake system one more time, this time with ATE Super Blue (which as I understand is the same thing as the TYP200 but blue instead of gold) and bled the ABS. This time around the pedal felt much firmer and wouldn't sink, so I drove 5 hours all the way up to the track site. In the last toll booth on my way, though, I noticed that the sinking pedal came back. By then, the nearest dealer was 100 mi away, and no dealer in a 300 mi radius had an MC in stock anyway so I decided to swallow my disappointment and drive back home, leaving my plans of track fun behind me. I got my car back to the dealer and they're currently replacing the MC. I'll let you know later whether this will solve the problem or not. I'm not particularly optimistic, though, because the dealer gave me a brand new (1,300 mi) loaner Cayenne to use while they fix my car and, guess what, the Cayenne's brake pedal sinks exactly like my car's! I did a search on web forums and found other people who noticed the same thing, including in brand new cars still sitting at the dealer's parking lot (check http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/997-...th-brakes.html).

I think a sinking brake pedal is tricky to notice because the pedal feels firm at first, and under normal driving the car brakes just fine. You'll only notice a problem if you deliberately keep pressing the pedal after you come to a stop, which I only did after I first flushed the system and was testing for potential problems. I think this problem may go unnoticed for months if you're not paying special attention to your brakes.

Do you test your brakes regularly for a sinking pedal? Is this a cronic problem with some of the newer models, or just "normal"? If "normal", how low can you (or the brake pedal...) go???

Have never experienced on my C4S or any other car for that matter. It is not normal and needs to be sorted out before you take the car back to the track.

Would go for the C4. It's newer and lower miles and not an '05.Besides the C4 is actually a better deal based on the prices you quoted given it's only $ 3 k more. The '05 cars were troublesome to say the least. As for the drive-handling feel, I think you'll find it less responsive than the C2 and with a heavier feel to the steering but much more confidence inspiring due to the advantage of the all wheel drive if you want to toss it around at speed .In bad weather the C4 has a huge advantage particularly if it's got a set of PS2's on it as they're a great rain tire. Maintenance isn't any different and if you own the car long enough to wear out the CV joints more power to you. At my current rate of use it'll take me another 15 years to get to 100 K miles. Hell, I'll be too old to drive it by then and will be forced by the senior citizen police to trade it in on a new Buick. :D

Which ever car you choose have it checked out by a pro before you buy so you won't have any surprises after you get it home.

Hi Guys,

just an update to all your threads, in the uk the part numbers that were stamped on the mounting brackets for an 00-04 my were as follows, 996.561.656.01 (right Bracket) and 996.561.655.01 (left bracket), if you try and search these part numbers in the uk or abroad the pet system doesnt recognise them for some reason, after reading your threads i bought a 996 hardtop off ebay in basalt black from a 2002 car for £102, amazing eh? i then went to a renouned porsche breakers who were breaking a 2003 carrera 4 cab and obtained the mounts for £100, however i was mindfull that the part numbers mentioned previously in this thread were different and as i said before when i tried to cross reference them with porsche they didnt exhist, so i just figured i would give it a try. I fitted the brackets which took about 40 mins then travelled 100 miles to pick the hardtop up.

upon arrival the seller said to me ' didnt you read the advert, this will only fit a 996, youve had a wasted journey', i dropped the soft top and said to him lets fit the hardtop and to his amazement it fitted like a glove, he was gutted and claimed if he had of known it would fit a 997 he wouldnt have sold it with no reserve.

In total including petrol to pick up the hardtop the whole job came to £223, the biggest bargain ever, and the colour of my car is basalt black, what a result, without your thread this would not have been possible, many thanks, well worth the contribution to the forum to see the fitting instructions too. :thankyou:

Most curious about the part number differences as I pulled the numbers from the PET for the 996 and the Porsche dealer I got them from matched those exact part numbers. In any event sounds like it worked out for you. I was glad to be able to disprove the myth about the 996 tops not fitting the 997. When I decided to tackle it I knew I might have to put the top back on Ebay if it didn't fit but was convinced it was the same part and decided to give it shot. For Indiana winters it's a great addition to the car but

storing it during the warmer months is kind of a pain as the top was much larger than I would have guessed before it arrived.

Any chance you disconnected a ground wire while working on the radio install ?

If your current wash schedule is once every 6 months it really doesn't matter how you wash the car. Car wash, touchless on not, won't do much additional damage to a car that never gets washed any other way. Kind of surprised it makes any difference to you one way of the other. As for damage to the top seems like a moot point.

Hi , just noticed your post, i have a uk spec 2006 997 c4 cab and you can operate the roof up or down at up to 40 mph as standard, no smart top fitted, thats how it came from the factory.

I can operate the top while moving as you indicate. Smart Top allows you to open/close with only a touch of the button. No need to keep pushing it until the top is done. However, all the other features just run the price of it up to where it's not worth the $$'s to me. Was looking for a cheaper alternative.

Seems more than a little odd doesn't it ? I use it for small stuff like my Porsche tire gauge (the gauge case fit's in perfectly) but I can't for the life me of think of a good reason why it's there if Porsche doesn't want you to use it. My guess is that the label is a legal disclaimer so if you put something in there and it comes out on its own and damages something inside the trunk and you want to complain to Porsche they can say they "I told you so" and tell you to pound sand.

Seems to me you're going to have a problem finding heated seats in the brown no matter where you look. I would have suggested looking around for a suitable car with the heated seats a little farther north than Florida but not sure you'll find the color combo you want at that price. So, if you've got to have heated brown seats you could do the heated seat mod yourself. I believe if you do a google search " porsche heated seats hack" you'll find a post on one of the Porsche sites, Porsche Petes if I recall correctly, with all the factory part numbers and a how to for the entire procedure. Maybe a little bit of a challenge but not as hard as finding the color combo you want in heated seats no less. You could have a good upholstery shop do it, but that will probably add considerably to the total cost. Even buying seats from a good salvage yard might work but again the brown heated seats may be very hard to find.

As for the S or non S. That's simple, get the S. For what little it will cost when buying used you'll kick yourself if you don't. I went from a standard Boxster to an '07 C4S Cab and would not go back to the non S car.

Is it advised to warm up my CS2 - 997 after it being in the garage over night, usually I turn it on and let it warm up for around 3 minutes before driving off.... Also should I keep it on for a bit after driving it hard so that the fan can cool off the motor before turning the engine off or is this only for Turbo's...?

As has been mentioned here by several folks, there is no need to idle the engine to warm it up. In fact, excessive idling can do more harm to the engine than good and should be avoided. I start my car, wait until the idle settles down, maybe 10-15 seconds, and drive off making sure to keep it under 4000 RPM's until the oil reaches normal operating temperature. Oil temperature is more important than coolant temp where engine wear is concerned. In the warmer months it doesn't take very long for the oil temp to reach normal which for me is 200 degrees give or take. Then you can drive it like you stole it.

PET for the 997 lists no fewer than 4 different part numbers for the DVD drive. Numbers listed in order are 997 642 139 02 , 997 642 159 00 and 997 642 257 02 and 997 642 257 03. Model numbers on the last two are the same I 615. For the first two the three model numbers listed are the same for both and are I 664, I 670 and I 674 for. In the schematic it's shown as being mounted vertically . While the numbers for the horizontal unit are different I can see no visual difference in the two and given that unit are both self feeding (you start the disc into the drive and the drive pulls it in) a doubt that mechanically they are any different. Interestingly, two of the three model numbers shown for the horizonally mounted units are I 670 and I 672. With that information overload I'm afraid having all those numbers won't help you much. However, if it were me, I'd install the one you have, so long as it matches one of the numbers above. If it doesn't match I'm afraid you're back to square one.

I'm still fumbling through the different cross reference materials a bit, but I think you might be looking at a 997-2 PET listing? The reason I think this is that the PET listing I'm looking at from Porsche.com (for an 07 997, illustration 911-01, Update 203, from 08/28/2006...granted mine's an 08) lists different option codes than you have and indicates the first two part numbers are I099 (right-hand drive). The other interesting thing is that the next two part nunbers you list aren't in the PET available on the Porsche site at all, but they do show up in AutoAtlanta's PET diagrams (but with a price half what the first two part numbers list at which makes me think they might be the DVDs themselves and not the drives?).

PET is actually the same as the one you mention. It's entitled 997_USA_KATALOG, is for model year 07 and the numbers listed are for various item # 3 part numbers, as labeled and depicted in the parts blowup picture, and references a "dvd device navigation system". The Final entry under # 3 is for a cd-rom logbook, which I would assume is the software for the logbook feature. The item you mention I099 is item # 2 and is depicted a horizontal drive in the parts schematic I have. Appears straight forward enough but wouldn't explain the price differential you mention. I suppose if the parts guys can't figure it out mean mortals wren't meant to either.

JRagan,

Have you had an opportunity to look at a factory installed NAV & CD Changer in a C4S 997.1?

You might just want visit your dealership and see if there is one on the sales lot or in for service.

It might shed more light and certainly give you a 'visual' of what the finished job should look like.

Good Luck!

ps. I think it's already been discussed but I'm sure the fiber optic cable(s) as well as the power harness(s) are longer due to the mounting location.

Great advice :) I had actually searched the interwebs for 'for sale' C4(S)s with OEM changer and navigation in the hopes they'd have photos of the bonnet, and came up with this which matches the info I've been reading. In this picture you can clearly see the BOSE AMP hump + Attached Navigation DVD drive hump against the rear, and the CD Changer along the passenger-side fender. What I would LOVE to see though is the part number on the Navigation DVD drive...something I've yet to discern.

PET for the 997 lists no fewer than 4 different part numbers for the DVD drive. Numbers listed in order are 997 642 139 02 , 997 642 159 00 and 997 642 257 02 and 997 642 257 03. Model numbers on the last two are the same I 615. For the first two the three model numbers listed are the same for both and are I 664, I 670 and I 674 for. In the schematic it's shown as being mounted vertically . While the numbers for the horizontal unit are different I can see no visual difference in the two and given that unit are both self feeding (you start the disc into the drive and the drive pulls it in) a doubt that mechanically they are any different. Interestingly, two of the three model numbers shown for the horizonally mounted units are I 670 and I 672. With that information overload I'm afraid having all those numbers won't help you much. However, if it were me, I'd install the one you have, so long as it matches one of the numbers above. If it doesn't match I'm afraid you're back to square one.