GLIDE

On 8/24/2016 at 0:19 PM, Richard Hamilton said:

Is the fob working at all?  Does the button on the dash lock the doors?  If not, check the fuse on the alarm unit under the left hand seat. (Between the 2 plugs - 15A). Also check it isn't wet under the seat.
 

Fixed - ended up being two bad passenger lock swithces.  Back in business with a no beep, fully locked 996!

New door locks in.... No change.

I can manually lock the passenger door (at exposed door lock) then lock drivers door with key and get the system armed. Otherwise I cannot get the system to lock... Aren't there some locking methods other than relying on the fob?

Any other thoughts out there? Anyone in Denver area with a Porsche tester?


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35 minutes ago, Richard Hamilton said:

I'll wager it is one of the microswitches inside the door lock mechanism (there are 5 switches inside, in addition to the switch on each handle).  The door lock can't read the one which says it is locked, so immediately unlocks.  Or it could be the switch which senses that the door is closed (thinks it is open), causing it to unlock immediately.  Triple-locking with the fob or key will force the system to lock, but it is only a temporary measure.

As Loren says - clear the codes and see which ones come back.  13, 14, 59, 60 & 61 are the clues that the microswitches aren't reading correctly.

Yeah, this is what I was originally thinking.  I didn't realize there are 5 inside - the ones acknowledging the doors are closed work fine (per window action).  Already replaced the drivers... I guess I'll throw the passenger at it and see!  

I just manually set the passenger door to locked (at lock mechanism inside door), then locked drivers with the key.....no beeps (single or double).  Seem reasonable that the passenger lock is culprit.

I did not have the latest software version... I do now!

6 minutes ago, Loren said:

An alarm double beep means the alarm system has a failed.

You will need Durametric or a Porsche diagnostic tool to find the fault and correct it.

I have the Durametric Enthusiast... Not sure how to find the fault when it suggest no issues after the system check.

Completely baffled here.  99 C4.  Alarm cycles through lock>>unlock>>Double beep when trying to lock from the FOB.  Doesn't lock the doors.  I can only lock drivers door from the key - single beep after that locks. I manually set passenger lock (from inside door), locked the drivers and got the single beep.  Then unlocked and back to double beep.

Durametric is inconsistent in reporting codes.  Last ones I saw indicated open door circuits - didn't get a chance to jot them extra expecting to see them again.  Reset the module, now no codes to report!

All micro switches in the doors are good.  Windows drop/go up as expected when triggered from outer handle/inner handle/door lock.  I assume the drivers door lock is good considering it will lock from the key.  I have another good drivers lock that I plugged in to the passenger side - same situations.  

I know there are other switches the alarm considers but I can't imagine the motion sensor or the center console would keep the car from locking!?!?  Durametric pointed mostly to doors (I think I remember something about circuit 15?). 

Any insight out there?  I really don't want to throw parts at it but am at the end of my capability/knowledge.  Long shot but could the ignition switch be causing this?? Anyone in Denver area with a PIWIS?  Durametric doesn't seem to have the capability In this instance.

HELP!!!!

Loren- thank you in advance.

99 C4

Becker cdr 220

It is type 4462

Serial # W5009746

30/98

Update:

I finally got back at it - thank you all for the advice. I decided to remove the seats to see exactly what I was working with. Found the wiring harness connector behind drivers seat - did not look disturbed so left it. (Pic for reference)

Went ahead and picked up a paired fob, immobilizer, and dme- fixed.  Immo took a bath and PCB became corroded!

Regarding your question, all the security related codes should be stored in the RFID, the immobilizer and the DME onboard internally. Only in these 3 items.

 

http://www.ecudoctors.com/porsche-boxster-ecu-immobilizer-removal.html

Yeah, ****.  I guess that leads us towards a physical connection/interruption between DME and Immobilizer.  

On July 28, 2014 at 11:39 AM, 987_RDC said:

Are the immobilizer and DME paired? As i noted before you can perform the sync w/ IPAS codes.

Yep.

On July 28, 2014 at 1:01 PM, Ahsai said:

Could you wiggle the immobilizer connectors or unplug and reseat them and retest? You mentioned before that you got some strange behaviors when wiggling the immobilizer connectors.

Tried this. No change. I'm suspect of the physical connections. Thinking about pulling the seat to take a better look. Although key fob talks to immobilizer which activates horn/locks.

Q: durametric enthusiast cannot reset alarm/immobilizer codes apparently. Would these be stored outside the DME/immobilizer unit??? Elsewhere in the car where a battery(coin cell) fed storage unit stores flash or something? Running out of ideas.

Known good DME in. Paired immobilizer and RFID in. All good - looks like Immo got wet and PCB corroded!

Ok. Finally back on this project - now armed with a durametric enthusiast. I hooked up the durametric last night to see what's going on - probably biggest red flag is reporting the DME as not connected. 

On 6/1/2014 at 3:27 PM, dcdrechsel said:

This might sound strange but are all air bags in and connected ? Another poster encountered similar issues -his steering wheel and airbag were were removed .Car thought it had been in an accident and shut itself down .

Confirmed air bag looks fine.

On 6/1/2014 at 3:27 PM, Ahsai said:

Good point. Btw, are both DMEs non-gas? I don't think e-gas and non-egas are interchangeable.

DME from 01 is egas, not sure about other one. Car is set up for egas.

On 6/1/2014 at 5:51 PM, dcdrechsel said:

I think the durametric software could help isolate problem areas .This assumes that trouble codes are being set .Another option is to send the dme to an expert and have them go thru the unit (not sure how they handle the immobilizer -one option is to program it out ).You are dealing with a lot of unknowns and that is tough to navigate ,it would be a lot easier with a known good dme and correct maps .

I don't have a durametric (yet). I think I'll have to get my hands on one - I think I've eliminated most of the low hanging fruit. Anyone have one they'd loan or any Boulder/Denver guys interested in coming by?

On June 1, 2014 at 3:27 PM, dcdrechsel said:

This might sound strange but are all air bags in and connected ? Another poster encountered similar issues -his steering wheel and airbag were were removed .Car thought it had been in an accident and shut itself down .

You know- I was wondering about that. 

Would crank position signal issue shut me down like this?

I think the pin 2 0v may not be the true ground because if it was, the start lock relay should click and you should be able to at least start the starter. Can you swap in another relay for the start lock relay? Also, can you measure the voltage between pin 7 and pin 2 (instead of measuring the pins with respect to the chassis ground) and see if you get 12v?

Measured between 7 & 2 pins ..... 0V.

Ground issue? Just double checked + cleaned up engine ground - no change.

Car had remnants of aftermarket stereo - additional hot coming off battery to amp I'm assuming. Maybe issues arising from that?

On May 29, 2014 at 4:00 PM, Ahsai said:

BTW, is the metal key blade and the key fob one piece like normal or you just put the key fob close to the ignition switch when you crank using the key blade only?

Regular old one piece key/fob. PCB/battery is missing, but I don't believe that has any effect.

On May 29, 2014 at 5:03 PM, Ahsai said:

start lock relay

- pin 7/86 should have 12v with key on engine off. This connects directly to DME pin 54 you wanted to test (via the "26" merge point)

- pin 2/85 should have ~0v with key on engine off. DME provides ground to this pin when it allows the starter to crank

Pin 7 start lock - 11.9 V

Pin 2 start lock - 0V

On May 29, 2014 at 5:03 PM, Ahsai said:

Also check pin 7 of "MFI + DI" relay, which is connected to pin 26 of DME. It should have 12v always hot.

Pin 7 MFI + DI - 11.9V

Immobilizer fuse is fine.

I really think the ECU is the problem. 

Thanks Ahsai.

I jumped pin 3 to 5 on the start lock relay. Cranked very well but would not start. One thing I expected was to get a live oil pressure reading - the gauge simply went to max and stayed there throughout cranking session. Is this to be expected?

Doesn't appear the fuel pump or ignition are active. I'll be honest - I am not terribly strong at electrical troubleshooting. I'm wondering where you all are identifying the Pin #s? I've got the FSM and can't connect the dots! I'm looking at Sheet 12 of wiring diagrams. For example, how do I check pin 54 as suggested below (take from old thread where guy had similar problem- unfortunately no conclusion)?

Can I jump fuel pump and ignition relays to get the car to start? Anyone in Denver area with a Porsche diagnostics tool interested in coming by?

Peripheral q: the frunk and decklid release levers feel "locked". It's a 99- cable actuated. Is there some sort of locking mechanism for those?

Thanks in advance.

Here's what the garage has said:

Diagnostics does not pick up DME (ECU not responding)

Check voltage at starter - 12V

Crank key - No voltage at trigger on starter

Checked wiring diagram - System has a starter lock and MFI relays

Change relays - No difference

Connected terminal 30 & 87 on starter lock relay - This allowed engine to crank, but not fire. This side of circuit ok.

Thoughts currently - Either relay trigger circuit faulty or ECU

Power to relays, but not trigger signals. Wiring seems ok.

Check continuity of wires - All ok

Check pin for trigger switch (Pin 54 of ECU = UB switched) - This controls Air mass, MFI and DI relay, Injection relay, Oxygen sensor, Secondary airpump relay, Fuel pump (through a connecting relay)

This item is not switching - Controlled directly by ECU

Check pin 26 (Referred to as terminal 30 on wiring diagram - feeds MFI and DI relay also) - Has the required 5V switching voltage

In conclusion the ECU control from Pin 54 is causing the problem. This is the direct control for the majority of engine fuelling systems. Therefore an internal ECU fault.

Still waiting to find out the results...

Ok, at least your starter and ignition switch are working. No, oil pressure gauge should read very close to 0-1 when cranking. Most likely the oil pressure sensor is not connected or the sensor is bad (disconnect = infinite resistance = highest reading).

I'm reading the exact same wiring diagrams as you for the pins, focusing on sheets 12 and 16. You cannot just jump the fuel pump and ignition and expect the engine to fire up. There are many possibilities and unfortunately you will have to eliminate them one by one, starting with the easiest.

- Check fuse B8 and ALL the other fuses that are related to engine, DME, etc. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/8516331-post7.html

- Check the fuse on the immobilizer unit.

To check the pins on the DME directly with the DME still connected, you need the DME breakout box. I would suggest checking other points to verify if the DME is even trying to fire the engine (e.g., sheet 12, M113 you see a small square merging point called "26"., which is directly connected to pin #54 of the DME. If the DME activates the fuel/ignition, this point will have 12v and so will all the lines that are connected to it. Therefore, you can check pin #7 of secondary air injection relay, which is a lot easier to access. Of course, this assumes you don't have a wiring problem so if you do see 12v with key on engine off, that means the DME is at least trying to activate the fuel/ignition.

Great, thank you for the insight. I want to learn!

I glanced at the oil pressure sensor last night -- appeared to be hooked up but I will double check.

I checked all fuses in the fuse box a couple nights ago -- all systems go. Will double check

Did not check immobilizer fuse -- will tonight.

Pin 54 check -- thank you for the explanation. That makes sense. (I obviously don't have the breakout box) Will check for voltage on the SAI relay tonight.

Stay tuned!

On May 29, 2014 at 10:26 AM, 987_RDC said:

Buy a paired ECU/Immobilizer/etc from eBay and swap it all in.

Thought about that. 

Thanks Ahsai.

I'll be honest - I am not terribly strong at electrical troubleshooting. I'm wondering where you all are identifying the Pin #s? I've got the FSM and can't connect the dots! I'm looking at Sheet 12 of wiring diagrams. For example, how do I check pin 54 as suggested below (take from old thread where guy had similar problem- unfortunately no conclusion)?

Can I jump fuel pump and ignition relays to get the car to start?

Thanks in advance.

On March 8, 2010 at 3:01 PM, Paul 996 said:

Here's what the garage has said:

Diagnostics does not pick up DME (ECU not responding)

Check voltage at starter - 12V

Crank key - No voltage at trigger on starter

Checked wiring diagram - System has a starter lock and MFI relays

Change relays - No difference

Connected terminal 30 & 87 on starter lock relay - This allowed engine to crank, but not fire. This side of circuit ok.

Thoughts currently - Either relay trigger circuit faulty or ECU

Power to relays, but not trigger signals. Wiring seems ok.

Check continuity of wires - All ok

Check pin for trigger switch (Pin 54 of ECU = UB switched) - This controls Air mass, MFI and DI relay, Injection relay, Oxygen sensor, Secondary airpump relay, Fuel pump (through a connecting relay)

This item is not switching - Controlled directly by ECU

Check pin 26 (Referred to as terminal 30 on wiring diagram - feeds MFI and DI relay also) - Has the required 5V switching voltage

In conclusion the ECU control from Pin 54 is causing the problem. This is the direct control for the majority of engine fuelling systems. Therefore an internal ECU fault.

Still waiting to find out the results...

 3.4 - can't get the engine to crank at all. No clicks, nothing. Battery is good, dash lights light up normal, but I can't engage the accessories (power windows, locks, sunroof) nor will the starter fire up. I've checked all the usual - ignition switch appears smooth, bypassed clutch pedal micro switch - to no avail. Am I missing anything here? Any insight is appreciated.