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Fixed - ended up being two bad passenger lock swithces. Back in business with a no beep, fully locked 996!

New door locks in.... No change. I can manually lock the passenger door (at exposed door lock) then lock drivers door with key and get the system armed. Otherwise I cannot get the system to lock... Aren't there some locking methods other than relying on the fob? Any other thoughts out there? Anyone in Denver area with a Porsche tester? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yeah, this is what I was originally thinking. I didn't realize there are 5 inside - the ones acknowledging the doors are closed work fine (per window action). Already replaced the drivers... I guess I'll throw the passenger at it and see! I just manually set the passenger door to locked (at lock mechanism inside door), then locked drivers with the key.....no beeps (single or double). Seem reasonable that the passenger lock is culprit.

I did not have the latest software version... I do now!

I have the Durametric Enthusiast... Not sure how to find the fault when it suggest no issues after the system check.

Completely baffled here. 99 C4. Alarm cycles through lock>>unlock>>Double beep when trying to lock from the FOB. Doesn't lock the doors. I can only lock drivers door from the key - single beep after that locks. I manually set passenger lock (from inside door), locked the drivers and got the single beep. Then unlocked and back to double beep. Durametric is inconsistent in reporting codes. Last ones I saw indicated open door circuits - didn't get a chance to jot them extra expecting to see them again. Reset the module, now no codes to report! All micro switches in the doors are good. Windows drop/go up as expected when triggered from outer handle/inner handle/door lock. I assume the drivers door lock is good considering it will lock from the key. I have another good drivers lock that I plugged in to the passenger side - same situations. I know there are other switches the alarm considers but I can't imagine the motion sensor or the center console would keep the car from locking!?!? Durametric pointed mostly to doors (I think I remember something about circuit 15?). Any insight out there? I really don't want to throw parts at it but am at the end of my capability/knowledge. Long shot but could the ignition switch be causing this?? Anyone in Denver area with a PIWIS? Durametric doesn't seem to have the capability In this instance. HELP!!!!

Loren- thank you in advance. 99 C4 Becker cdr 220 It is type 4462 Serial # W5009746 30/98

Update: I finally got back at it - thank you all for the advice. I decided to remove the seats to see exactly what I was working with. Found the wiring harness connector behind drivers seat - did not look disturbed so left it. (Pic for reference) Went ahead and picked up a paired fob, immobilizer, and dme- fixed. Immo took a bath and PCB became corroded!

Yeah, ****. I guess that leads us towards a physical connection/interruption between DME and Immobilizer.

Yep. Tried this. No change. I'm suspect of the physical connections. Thinking about pulling the seat to take a better look. Although key fob talks to immobilizer which activates horn/locks. Q: durametric enthusiast cannot reset alarm/immobilizer codes apparently. Would these be stored outside the DME/immobilizer unit??? Elsewhere in the car where a battery(coin cell) fed storage unit stores flash or something? Running out of ideas.

Known good DME in. Paired immobilizer and RFID in. All good - looks like Immo got wet and PCB corroded!

Ok. Finally back on this project - now armed with a durametric enthusiast. I hooked up the durametric last night to see what's going on - probably biggest red flag is reporting the DME as not connected.

Confirmed air bag looks fine. DME from 01 is egas, not sure about other one. Car is set up for egas. I don't have a durametric (yet). I think I'll have to get my hands on one - I think I've eliminated most of the low hanging fruit. Anyone have one they'd loan or any Boulder/Denver guys interested in coming by?

You know- I was wondering about that.

Would crank position signal issue shut me down like this?

Swapped n another relay- nothing.Measured between 7 & 2 pins ..... 0V. Ground issue? Just double checked + cleaned up engine ground - no change. Car had remnants of aftermarket stereo - additional hot coming off battery to amp I'm assuming. Maybe issues arising from that?

Regular old one piece key/fob. PCB/battery is missing, but I don't believe that has any effect. Pin 7 start lock - 11.9 V Pin 2 start lock - 0V Pin 7 MFI + DI - 11.9V Immobilizer fuse is fine. I really think the ECU is the problem.

Ok, at least your starter and ignition switch are working. No, oil pressure gauge should read very close to 0-1 when cranking. Most likely the oil pressure sensor is not connected or the sensor is bad (disconnect = infinite resistance = highest reading). I'm reading the exact same wiring diagrams as you for the pins, focusing on sheets 12 and 16. You cannot just jump the fuel pump and ignition and expect the engine to fire up. There are many possibilities and unfortunately you will have to eliminate them one by one, starting with the easiest. - Check fuse B8 and ALL the other fuses that are related to engine, DME, etc. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/8516331-post7.html - Check the fuse on the immobilizer unit. To check the pins on the DME directly with the DME still connected, you need the DME breakout box. I would suggest checking other points to verify if the DME is even trying to fire the engine (e.g., sheet 12, M113 you see a small square merging point called "26"., which is directly connected to pin #54 of the DME. If the DME activates the fuel/ignition, this point will have 12v and so will all the lines that are connected to it. Therefore, you can check pin #7 of secondary air injection relay, which is a lot easier to access. Of course, this assumes you don't have a wiring problem so if you do see 12v with key on engine off, that means the DME is at least trying to activate the fuel/ignition. Great, thank you for the insight. I want to learn! I glanced at the oil pressure sensor last night -- appeared to be hooked up but I will double check. I checked all fuses in the fuse box a couple nights ago -- all systems go. Will double check Did not check immobilizer fuse -- will tonight. Pin 54 check -- thank you for the explanation. That makes sense. (I obviously don't have the breakout box) Will check for voltage on the SAI relay tonight. Stay tuned!

Thought about that.

Thanks Ahsai. I'll be honest - I am not terribly strong at electrical troubleshooting. I'm wondering where you all are identifying the Pin #s? I've got the FSM and can't connect the dots! I'm looking at Sheet 12 of wiring diagrams. For example, how do I check pin 54 as suggested below (take from old thread where guy had similar problem- unfortunately no conclusion)? Can I jump fuel pump and ignition relays to get the car to start? Thanks in advance.

3.4 - can't get the engine to crank at all. No clicks, nothing. Battery is good, dash lights light up normal, but I can't engage the accessories (power windows, locks, sunroof) nor will the starter fire up. I've checked all the usual - ignition switch appears smooth, bypassed clutch pedal micro switch - to no avail. Am I missing anything here? Any insight is appreciated.