mat59

If you have GT2 315/30/18 sizes it's even worse. I have just put my original Turbo wheels back on for more choice in 295/30/18. Went for Pirelli as that was all that was available. Seem good but loud and can get flat spotted if left parked up for a few days. Takes a few miles at high speeds for the flat spots to come out.

Hi, Didn't notice the voltage reading when the message appeared. However, later that day when I checked again whilst the car was idling and driving to my mechanic with AC, lights, radio etc off it was reading just above 13 volts. The fault isn't intermittent. Since having the alt replaced it is now reading 13.7 at idle with no load. I will check later what voltage I am getting with lights, radio and AC on.

Just checked with a multimeter. Seeing 12.38 with engine off having been sat for two hours. With engine idling and all consumers off I'm seeing 13.7. Is this OK?

Hi all, So, I have a new fault with my 2001 TT. Was driving into work the other day and I randomly get the battery/generator red fault message on the LCD screen. I also got a smell of burning. It was early morning and very misty so suspected the very misty conditions outside May have caused a short or something. Later that day when it was much warmer I went to check the car and fault message on the display was still there. The voltmeter was reading straight between 12 and 14 (13)with engine running and all consumers off. I took it to my Indy specialist who did some tests with a multimeter and said the alternator was weak. Makes sense as the car is at approx 80k miles. He has since replaced the alternator with a Porsche refurb part. Collected the car today and he told me the warning is still on the cluster display. With all consumers off it is now reading two thirds of the way between 12 and 14, so about 13.5ish. He says he has checked all wiring and cannot see any fault. He suspects the cluster to be at fault. He knows I have had issues with the cluster before. Background to all of this (couple of threads started and followed up on here) is that my oil level readout functionality stopped working on my cluster. After changing oil level sensors and two checks at separate Indy specialists it was traced to a faulty cluster. I sent it off to a guy on here who has fixed the fault very economically compared to the huge cost of a replacement cluster. Doubt this issue is related to the oil level fix. No issues with the car since. The battery is only six months old but is a 74 Ah not 80 Ah. Any ideas on where my faults lies? Thanks, Matt

Hi, yeah, I think it was just because the garage hadn't fitted the connectors into the back of the cluster properly as the clips were loose.

Richard, see the outcome to my other thread. Qmulus sorted it for me.

Hi all, OP here. I can confirm that upon re-fitting the cluster today, it does indeed work faultlessly. May thanks to Qmulus for a great service. This should now be the 'go to' option for anyone with a faulty cluster. Much cheaper than a replacement cluster and you get to retain the correct mileage readout. I must stress that I had the two sensors checked and replaced and the wiring checked prior to getting the cluster fixed. Would thoroughly recommend Qmulus for cluster issues.

Found this tyread which looks to be the identical same problem as I've been having. Unfortunately there's no conclusion to the thread. http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/125754-collapsed-vacuum-hose-eractic-idle-please-help.html It's number 26 below. Any ideas?

Hi all, The hose at the top of the pic below was fitted as a replacement to my OEM hose as it kept collapsing. My specialist could not get an OEM hose from Porsche as they are out of stock. So this temporary hose was installed. I need to order one from Germany. Any idea of the part number of the hose? It's the one at the top of the pic below. As you look into the engine bay, it's the hose at the top back of the engine compartment just over slightly to the right. Any idea why the original kept collapsing? This was happening under any throttle and would cause the engine to cut out. My specialist put it down to the hose losing it's structural rigidity but I'm not convinced. The temporary replacement one in the pic is kinda doing the same thing but to less of an extent because the hose is narrowing where it bends. Another pic. It's the one in the middle left. Thanks

Sorry guys, I don't mean my own garage, rather the Porsche Specialist shop that I use. They're collecting the car tomorrow to sort it out.

So, had another look at it today with my multimeter. Didn't get anywhere but then started having a good look through the engine bay to see if I could spot anything. Noticed an odd smell and then noticed some rodent droppings. I then noticed that as you peer into the engine bay on the right hand side, over towards the wheel arch behind the passenger light cluster, there were some exposed wires. Looking more closely these look to have been nibbled at and chewed through by some sort of rodent. The car was at my garage for several weeks getting some other work done before I noticed the issue so I think I've found the cause. Deep joy. Probably requires a new lighting harness or a repair of some sort. Going back to the garage for a repair. I'll keep you posted!

Hi, mine is a 2002 turbo. The fuse sheet says that it should be a 15a fuse but a 7.5a fuse was in there that was blown. Now replaced with a 15a fuse. I think when the passenger side connector contact arm snapped it probably would have caused the 7.5a fuse to blow. Now this issue is sorted I'm just left with the mystery of why the drivers side rear bulb isn't flashing. I'll check it with a multimeter later.

Thanks, I'll try this tomorrow. Could it still be a bad relay or hazard switch?

Hi. Thanks for that. I've just been to check over the car. First I found that the fuse had blown. I found a 7.5v fuse in there when the fuse diagram states it should have been a 15v fuse. I then checked the indicators again but still the rear drivers side does not work. I then looked at the relay. Although I didn't remove it I could hear it clicking and when I touched it you could feel it clicking. I also took out the hazard switch and cleaned it up but this hasn't made any difference either. Wilbilly, are you saying the actual metal contacts in the bulb seating might be broken in some way. I know the contact arm in the passenger bulb seat had snapped but I hadn't noticed this with the drivers side.

Hi All, Although my car is a 996 turbo, I've posted in the 996 forum as I don't believe the issue is Turbo specific. I’ve been having problems with the rear drivers’ side indicator not working. At first I thought it was a burnt out bulb. I removed the two rear light clusters and swapped the suspect bulb with the working one from the passenger side and it still didn’t. Whilst testing/experimenting with swapping bulbs etc I was using the hazard warning button on the dash to get the indicators to flash. I then went to put everything back as it was originally but noticed the little metal contact arm in the rear passenger bulb connector had partly snapped as I tried to put the bulb back in. I used some pliers to bend what was left of the arm into shape so that it now makes good contact with the base of the bulb. I then put everything back together and I’ve since noticed that now none of the indicators work at all. I’m getting nothing from using the stalks or the hazard button. I’ve done some research which points towards the relay and/or hazard switch, which is a right old pain because I’ll have t order these parts from Germany as my local dealer doesn’t stock them. Any other ideas I should look into whilst I’m waiting for the parts to arrive? Incidentally, the car just came back from the shop where it has been living for the past 6 weeks whilst I’ve had some other work done which included removing the engine and speedo/instrument cluster from the dash. Thanks in advance.

Thanks Kevin, I had an official Porsche dealer attempt to code the replacement cluster to the car. Therefore, I would have thought they had the appropriate tools and knowledge to do this!?

Hi, Starting a new thread due to the direction of my 'oil level indicator not working' thread changing. I've recently tried installing a 2005 turbo cluster into my 2002 turbo. Both part numbers are identical. Both clusters look identical with the exception of the 2005 cluster having 'Turbo' written on the rev counter dial. However, my Porsche dealer cannot get the 2005 cluster to work fully in my 2002 when they tried coding it to the car. Specifically, the rev counter and speedo don't work. Everything else does. Either, A - I've bought a duff 2005 cluster. Or B - Although the two clusters have identical part numbers, the 2005 cluster is not compatible with the 2002. Any thoughts?

Update: Well, things just went from bad to worse. The replacement used cluster turned up in the post. Had my specialist fit it and take it to Porsche for coding and guess what? They say the replacement cluster is also damaged! This time the oil level does work but the speedo and rev counter don't. Bought it through ebay so should be able to get my money back on it. The hunt for another starts again. My first reaction was that I thought this was very odd. The replacement cluster was the exact same part number so it's not to do with compatibility issues, I think?! The only thing I can think of is that although the part numbers are identical, my car is 2002 and the replacement cluster is from a 2005. Any thoughts? This has been an epic PITA. Car's been off the road more than it's been on it in the three months I've had it.

Thanks! Will check this tomorrow. It couldn't be due to them putting too little oil in could it? By sender do you mean the oil pressure switch?

Hi all, Just to add to my joy, I now have another problem. I've not yet sorted the oil level indicator problem but this will be sorted soon as I've found a cluster and I'm hoping to have it in the car soon. As this may take a while I collected the car today to bring it home until the cluster arrives. On the way home I noticed the oil pressure does not go above 3-3.5 under acceleration and sits at between 0-1 when idling. This is very concerning! The engine has been dropped when the wiring was checked and put back in. The oil was changed when this happened. There are no visible oil leaks from the engine. I'll be sending it back to the garage tomorrow. Any idea what's going on? Thanks again, Matt

Hi all, Thanks again for all of your help. Qmulus, let me get this straight, if I find a a used cluster and have it sent to you are you offering to recode the main board to my car and then post it out to me (for a fee)? I can then sell you the 'broken' cluster that is in my car ?

Many thanks, I now have to find a replacement cluster, which is my next challenge. My cluster has the part number 9966412150470C. I'm trying to find a direct replacement with the same part number, however, this is proving difficult. I'm not sure how able my mechanic is to recode a non turbo cluster to provide turbo functionality. Does the exact same part number have to be used or are there any similar part numbers that can be swapped in? I'm wondering if all of the 996 clusters have the same connectors at the back. Is there a way of checking say if a cluster will work with my chassis number? I've found a GT2 cluster that could be good as it's also in KM's rather than miles. As I'm in Dubai I want to get this right as shipping is expensive and takes quite a bit of time to get things here. Any advice would be much appreciated!

Hi, thanks but what do you mean by that?

Jpflip and Silver_tt, thanks for taking the time to respond. I've now had two garages look into this and both have concluded after extensive investigations that the cluster needs replacing. They've used a place here to try to fix the cluster several times but they keep drawing a blank. I'll suggest the places in the UK and US that refurb clusters anyway. If not, I'll check they have PST2 or PIWIS and get a used cluster unit coded. Does anyone know if the mileage can be adjusted using PST2 or PIWIS, or will I have to live with the mileage from the replacement used cluster? Thanks again! Will hopefully finally have this sorted in the next few weeks so I can start driving it confidently.

Hi all, Update - I've had this checked out extensively with all wiring and sensors tested. It has been diagnosed as needing a new set of clusters. These are really expensive. Would have the option to buy a used set of clusters and have them coded to the car? If so, what has to be done to code them to the car (what equipment etc.)? Thanks, Matt