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nylewis

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Everything posted by nylewis

  1. With the way the weather has been, I havent had a chance to pull the cams. But I picked up the engine flush and a caliper to measure the cams.
  2. i was thinking the oil from the cooler and lines were not drained and thus went into the new engine causing a oil passage to clog over time. Of course its also poss some metal or debree from being a new engine clogged the oil passage. I was thinking about it a lot last night and considering it slowly got worse over a few thousand miles, maybe with the lifter not pumping up and hitting against the cam, it slowly worn the lobe down. Then with the new lifters, I still had a worn cam. I'm getting the car back Saturday. I will try and take a video of the sound and post it. I'm thinking the n
  3. About 3 years ago my 99 996 went bye bye due to the intermediate shaft bearing. I had a new engine from Porsche put in by a Porsche speed shop. After lets say 12K the engine started with a slight tick. Very hard to hear and would come and go once in a while. Over hundreds of miles it slowly got worse. It got more frequent and got louder to more of a very loud knock now. It's directly related to engine RMP and sounds like it's coming from the pass side. Now it's constant and loud. I had the lifters replaced on the pass side, now with 15K miles. No effect. No check engine light ever ca
  4. marcesp, that's what I thought the problem was. A lifter, a valve, etc. Something to do with 1 cylinder. I got my car back today and I talked to him about the problem. He is sticking to the broken shaft theory but that's based on finding aluminum in the oil, nothing else. Due to the tapping in sync with 1 cylinder, I'm still not convinced. I still believe a valve, lifter or spring is screwed causing some wear into the head which gives you the aluminum. I'll prob take it to a dealer when things settle and get a 2nd opinion, but for now I'm burnt. Just for everyones info whos looki
  5. Tool Pants, please ignore wvicary's post. I'm trying to have an intelligent discussion about a known problem and see if there is a solution. I don't know if a class action suit can or will be effective. I wanted to know if anyone has explored that avenue or just gave up and wrote a large check. I see no reason not to at least look into the possibility. We are not talking about some little problem here. The high price of the engine makes it more attractive to a firm.
  6. To say class action suits dont work is just wrong. I was just involved in one for a Mustang. The dealer made cheap plastic manifolds and they cracked after several years. The firm got the dealer to install new manifolds or a check for $750 for another mechanic to do it. I was just going to provide a firm with a list of names and let them tell me if anything can be done. Are you saying Porsche can produce any product and not back it up and we have no recourse? It has been said that 5% of the engines go bad. You dont think that 1 in 20 cars have the engine blow is proof of something is
  7. I had the car for over 1 year and never replaced the coolant. I dont know what the previous owner did. I did an oil change every 6 months even with only putting 4-5K on the car. If I get enough people, I'll forward the info to a firm and see what they say. Maybe a class action suit can be started. (see other topic)
  8. Just to see what the cost would be, how many people would be in for a class action suit against Porsche for 996 engine failures? Please post your car year, miles and brief description of the problem. I will try and put a list together and forward it to a law firm and see what their response is. I found this firms link seaching around. If anyone has a better firm or any input, I'm all ears. http://www.schneiderwallace.com/PracticeAr...C&ovtac=PPC
  9. 74K, not exactly "high" mileage for a car 8 years old. Plus its an auto so how much can it be beat on? If anyone is looking into a class action suit, I'm in. This is just retarded so many engines fail.
  10. I had been having a loud tapping, sounds like drivers side, coming from my engine. It's in perfect sync with 1 cylinder so I really thought a lifter went bad. I took it to a garage that races Porsches and is well known to have them swap out the lifters. When they drained the oil, it was full of aluminum. An oil change was done less than 100 miles ago. They said they believe the balance shaft broke and basically I'm shafted and need a new engine. The thing I questioned is the tapping is in perfect sync with 1 cylinder and no CEL light. Not having the $$$ anytime soon, its just not an opt
  11. Thanks for everyone's input. I appreciate and respect it. The garage is well known and the mechanic I talked to, did work for the Porsche dealer down the road. They build and race Porsches. I did ask him several questions about parts and procedures to test his knowledge and he knew everything off the top of his head. He claims to have done several cars and after talking with him, I trust his skills. I have degreed cams before but never dohc. If it wasn't for that, I would do that work myself. I normally do EVERYTHING myself (painting, engine/trans rebuild) but I really don't want to
  12. Well I just bought my car to a local garage that works on exotics. They have a couple of ex Porsche mechanics. They looked at the car and said it was the lifters and it's very common in my car. Because of the tiptronic, the bellhousing creates a shield that keeps the heat in. They said it's only a matter of time they fail but the new lifters have a better design that is supposed to not fail. They said the cams will have to be removed and the engine timed but everything can be done with the engine in the car. That was enough for me to hear to have them do the work. I don't want to mess a
  13. Unfortunately no, I did the oil change (0-40 Mobil) and flushed the engine with 2 quarts of Gunk engine flush. We got a blast of warm weather (50) and I still have the same very loud tapping. Still no cel light and I ran codes and got nothing. I ordered a Manual to see the procedure for removing the cams. I'm hoping you can just mark the cams and reinstall. I found the lifters for $20 each so I would just replace all 12 on the pass side. gkrikori - my tapping got much worse very quickly. At first it was only at startup but I think that artic blast we got for a few weeks caused a lift
  14. I picked up a couple quarts of motor flush. I figured it was designed for a 5 quart system. This weekend I'm going to drain out 2 quarts and add them. Then run the car at idle for 15-20, then do an oil change. I went with 0-40 because we are still in winter and no telling if we get another artic blast. Avg temp right now is 40. I saw lifters for $20 each and found a post of someone who replaced a valve spring with the engine still in the car. So if I have to go that route, at least there might be room. I looked at a cut away view of the engine. It looks like marking the cams and mayb
  15. A few weeks ago we had a blast of very cold weather in the northeast that lasted several weeks. My 99 C4 is a daily driver and after a couple of weeks, I started to notice the lifters tapping a little on startup. I thought no big deal, I'm running 10-40 and it seemed like it was going to be a very mild warm winter (70 in Jan). The tapping noise increased and now its very loud and doesn't stop when the car warms up. It increases with rpm and is very loud. I just pulled the belt and started the car to make sure it wasn't any accessory. It seems the tapping is coming from the pass side. Th
  16. The battery is on the weak side, its on my list soon to be replaced. But the engine turns over fine once I ran the wire direct to the starter. Without the wire connected, the engine doesnt even try and turn over.
  17. I have a 99 C4 tiptronic and I was having a problem starting the car. Turn the key and nothing happens. I replaced the ignition switch and got the same. So I ran a meter to the ignition switch, a heavy gauge wire (yellow I believe) gives off power when the key is turned. I ran this wire to the starter and the car starts fine. Does anyone know what is inbetween the iginiton switch and the starter? The wire coming off the ignition switch was probably around 12 gauge so I didnt think it would need a relay to give the starter good voltage. I can start the car fine now but I dont like an "af
  18. Sorry, forgot to add its a tiptronic. I turned the key to the on position, jumped the starter and the car runs fine. It just wont start with either key.
  19. I have a 99 C4. When you go to start the car, nothing happens. No clicking, nothing. I made sure the battery is charged, tried both keys. I replaced the ignition switch and when I ran direct power to the starter, it did turn over. Is there a starter relay? What is between the ignition switch and the starter? Any direction where to look next would be much appreciated. :help:
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