Chuck Jones

I agree with you Beecher.....I can't imagine why they'd not have a dipstick given the fact that the electronic one can and does fail, then youre left with no means of checking your oil level.....dumb move on Porsche's part IMO.

I guess if it fails....you can just drain it and pour it into a quart sized container and count the number of containers it filled up before putting it back in......I'm sure that's what Porsche intended in the event of level indicator failure.

Yeah....when I had the 99 996 I needed a replacement radio and a guy who dealt in the Becker radios sold me a CDR 23 as a replacement....then refused to take it back when I found that it wouldn't work in the 99.....needless to say I was miffed.

That taught me to check these forums before jumping on a "deal". Anyone want a CDR 23....brand new.....cheap? Makes a great paper weight....anchor for a canoe.....bookend.

From what I've read, the OEM should be fine for your 500 HP....but it all sort of goes back to that saying "as long as you're in there"....As was noted above, the difference in price isn't that much, the labor will be the same....so what's the sense of not going for the beefier clutch. That way if for some reason you did want to go for more HP down the road, you're ready for it. I wouldn't hesitate a bit on this one.

LOREN: Really??? At Harbor Freight?? What are these called....definitely going to go get a set. thanx for posting. Much better than my hokie staple puller.

I don't think that the need for a PPI addresses his question about different horsepower specs on what is essentially the same engine in the X50 and Turbo S. I'm interested in the question too...but it's probably like Loren said...they come up with an average in a range. I'd like to know specifically what difference there may have been in tuning or the addition of a slightly different application that upped the stated HP rating of the Turbo S over the X50s. If it's true...and I doubt it...it would have to be something relatively minor that could probably be emulated. Interesting question though.

You can also use a staple remover....the small one with the spring loaded jaws on it??? They work great for grabbing and pulling up those center pins. You usually have one of those lying around the house somewhere.....well....maybe not :)

From your signature I can see why you're concerned. Get ahold of the guys at GMG racing in SoCal. They do a lot of the installs on superchargers and I'm sure that Fabryce can point you in a direction. They won't do it kuz they're a large engine performance shop and not a smog station....but they do have an index finger that might be able to point you someplace. Worth a try anyway.

This is the very reason I never SC'd my car.

I have a replacement front hood latch along with a new cable that I bought for my 996 before it caught fire....if you need a new latch I'll let the whole assembly go very reasonably.....this is the mechanical release, not the electronic one....right?

Phil: I see you've asked this same question on a number of different forums. My response is the same...use the search function to look up the answers to your questions and do some research to familiarize yourself with the basic issues related to the 911 turbos....then come back and ask the questions you were unable to find answers for....there is a wealth of information in archives....but you may have to join some of the forums (in other words pay for a subscription) before you can get into the archives.

There are two bands that have tightening hardware.....loosen the bands and slide them to the outside on each side. I fought with them for about 30 minutes before I realized that all I had to do was slide them to the side....no need to completely disconnect the clamps. Once they have been moved over to the side, the muffler should come loose so be ready to take the weight....make sure you disconnect the O2 sensors and put them up and out of the way so you don't rip the wires off when the muffler drops.

I have the Europipe setup, and between 3000 and 5000 rpm, I can hear the turbos whistling....but the Europipe isn't really a loud system, I think WOT is 103db....so the comment about your exhaust system masking the sound could have merit. I'm running stock everything except Diverter Valves on an X50.

If you're doing the Upsolute, then price must be a concern. You might want to do some searches on the difference in performance and the pro/cons for the various tuners before you decide upon any particular one....unless you've already made up your mind.

I posted this issue on another forum, but I'll ask here too....I'm getting a vibration thru the clutch pedal when I hit 4000 rpm in gears 1, 2, 3, and 4. The vibration starts almost exactly at 4K under load. I can also take it up to 4K and keep it cruising there, then slightly depress the clutch and feel that tickling vibration in the ball of my foot. It doesn't seem to vibrate in 6th when cruising.

Any chance this could be the accumulator also? If the clutch was going, wouldn't it vibrate at just about any rpm? Same the the TO bearing? There's only 25K on the car.....02X50.

Joyride: How'd you do....did you chase it down?

I see your car is listed as "Bugatti Blue"....I've never heard/seen this color...can you post a picture?

I switched just kuz....and I got a good deal on a set of EVO diverter valves. After I switched, I noticed that I got more or less the same boost numbers that I got before I switched...which is about .9 to 1.0 on my X50. Since the stock DV's use a diaphram, it can tear and will show up as lower boost output. Apparently, the cheap plastic stock ones are prone to failure, hence the recommendation to replace them. The billet DV's can be disassembled periodically and cleaned/lubricated for continued service. Since they come apart, you can also either change the springs or shim them for more boost pressure. I won't mess with the spring pressures.

Just remember that whichever you choose to buy, make sure that the vacuum hose attachment on the top comes off at a 90 degree angle....much easier to install. Some of the replacement DV's are larger and have little or no clearance between the top of the DV and the engine housing.

I did the same thing, except I used a thin black zip tie and affixed it to the loop in the cable, then stuffed it up in the rubber liner in the front bumper.....just a thin zip tie sticks out that I can pull on and drop down the cable.

Loren: you said the cable in the rear was behind the left rear light...but in that picture of the yellow car with the bumper off, I didn't see any cable. Do you have to take out the rear tail light to get to that cable?

I agree wth Dayton....L.A. Dismantlers has a bad rep amongst the Porsche crowd. I'd try either SilverStar Dismantlers, or Oklahoma Foreign....Google them for contact info. I've bought fuel pumps and other 930 parts from Oklahoma and they've always stood behind their sales....they also work with you on prices. L.A. is overpriced and if you do a search on the name, you can make up your own mind about their reputation.

Proximity alarms have the unforseen and unwanted effect of attracting and annoying some folks who walk near the car, or in your case, the motorcycle. In some cases, it can motivate them to do something untoward to the vehicle. By their very nature and design, Porsches and other fine machines attract attention...some good, some bad. We've all heard the horror stories of keyed paint or torn off logos, mirrors, or center caps etc.....perpetrated by jealous idiots who seem to delight in defiling a beautiful car....almost like they were getting even for the fact you have something beautiful and they don't. I dont' think proximity alarms do much other than attract attention. A flashing light on the dash lets folks know that the car is alarmed.

I just replaced the rear struts....found a very light colored and highly viscous oil on the driveway....it was too fine to be engine oil, and it turned out to be a leaking strut (AKA shocks). Loren helped me change out both struts kuz you have to do both if one dies....I was unaware that you need to replace both even though only one is leaking....but you replace both to ensure an even keel. Wait...a keel is in a boat.....well....you know what I mean. Help me out here Loren.

Chuck

The leak was at the bottom fitting....the DV has two outlets.....one goes out at a right angle into the "F hose", and the other straight down. I hadn't properly secured the bottom fitting and reused the spring clamp rather than buying a new screw hose clamp. It did not alter the idle....but a searching idle is sometimes indicative of sucking air from somewhere.

Take a can of ether or other flammable spray (carb cleaner) and spray it near the fittings where they attach to the hoses....if the idle picks up, you have found a leak. Don't use too much spray....it is flammable. I use ether that comes in a can and is used for starting engines that are hard to start.

From all I've read, you should have left the stock one in. With all the contradictory information about CELs, the affect on the MAFs and other issues, I don't think the trouble or extra expense is going to bring you much performance that you didn't already have in the stock one. Admittedly this is a Personal opinion but based upon different threads Ive read on the subject.

Good to know...thanx for posting this info....a lot of difference between $229 and $645.

I dont' know exactly what they did when they flashed your car, but I had the same problem when I replaced the Diverter Valves. I had a leak in the hose to one of the valves and it threw a CEL that indicated overboost and dropped down the the boost level, however in my case it was a vacuum leak caused by faulty hose clamps. I'd say that Fastboy is on the right track....the ECU is generating the wrong message and is creating the signal of an overboost condition even though you aren't in overboost. This is affecting your ultimate boost threshold. So much for a theory from a guy with no MIT degree.

Usually, when you have a problem like this, you go back to the way things were BEFORE you made the change and see if the condition persists. It's too coincidental that you have a flash and now a problem. I hope their support folks are a help to you.

Fastboy wrote.... therefore a gallon (UK) is £1.10 x 4.54 = £4.99 (approx $10).

I'm going to quit bitching about the cost of gas in California. My sincere condolences sir.

Out of curiosity, today I filled up and went to visit a friend 120 miles away. I set the cruise control so that I maintained a steady speed at around 2900 rpm in 6th. The terrain was freeway from sea level up to about 1800 feet and thru several small towns...and managed to get 21.2 mpg....which is the best I've ever gotten....but it took all my self control to keep from tromping on the accelerator when goaded on by some folks...so you can get fairly decent mileage if you stay out of the boost....but that ain't no fun.....most boring trip I've ever taken.

As a quick add-on for today...which is Feb 1st....I decided to very judiciously be a tenderfoot for an entire tank of gas. Most of the driving was on freeways with the cruise control set to 2600-2800 rpm. This rpm range seems to get the best mileage. I did about 20% of the driving on city streets, but came off of stoplights by shifting very slowly and gradually bringing the car up to cruising speed. I was really surprised to get approximately 310 miles out of a tank of gas. Up to this point, I was getting from 175-210 miles out of a tank. By driving "judiciously" I increased my travel range by a good 25%....so these cars can get some fairly decent mileage if you stay off the accelerator....but now that the test is over....time go go back to getting 200 miles out of a tank. :) I was amazed when I'd set the onboard computer readout to "Miles left before refill" and watch the LCD readout. I had 39 miles left according to the indiator...I left my house to go downtown and the readout showed 39 miles before fillup was needed. As I drove on the freeway, the calculator increased the miles left from 39 all the way up to 48....in other words I was increasing remaining mileage on the fly. Idrove a total of almost 34 miles and when I got home the indicator still had 29 miles left on it. I had no idea I could get this sort of mileage and never tried this before....probably won't try it again until gas hits $4 a gallon. Don't shoot at over how these cars aren't meant to be driven that way....this was just a test under real conditions to see what was possible through restraint.

Fastboy: You folks are buying by the litre, so it is a slightly larger volume than the gallon, but that still exceeds our prices by quite a bit. Also, we're getting 91 ROM here, and you folks...even with your "cheap stuff" are up to 95. I wish we had some place around here that routinely sold 95. There are only a very few stations that sell the higher octanes. Otherwise you have to buy racing gas....or I'll buy Toluene by the 5 gallon can and mix it in with the 91 for my 87 930S.

You mentioned you are getting 18-20 mpg.....but wouldnt' that also be metric in KPG? Therefore a bit less in the MPG conversion? I'd be on the seventh step of Nirvana if I could routinely get 20mpg out of it during spirited driving. But as so many will say....you didn't buy ia 996TT to whine about gas consumption.