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Chuck Jones

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Everything posted by Chuck Jones

  1. I sold my 996 TT and have my 930S slantnose up for sale. Due to medical issues, I've had to buy a Nissan Murano which has an auto transmission and is easier to get in and out of.

  2. That last post...the disclaimer is put in there becasue guys switch out their standard CDR 220 for an upgraded spiffy stereo system, then expect that iWire setup to work. It's made for the STOCK radio...they can't possibly make one to accommodate all the different radio plug ports in the back of the numerous models that are on the market. This only works in teh earlier CDR 220 models..not the later MOST models as has already been stated. In the iWire, it goes into the plug port that your 6 CD holder would normally go into...so you can't have both. Personally, I prefer the iPod...just tran
  3. There's no difference in the clutch. It's the same one in the 420 HP or X50 models. When you go to bigger HP, you might as well do the clutch...I went with a UMW flash, Europipe exhaust, Wastegate upgraded spring kit in my X50 and the clutch lasted about a month....and that was without hard launches or fast off-the-line starts....the clutch just won't hold that extra HP. You'll feel it start slipping in gears 4, 5, or 6. A little at first, then it gets progressively worse regardless of how you baby it.
  4. Bill: Is that Smart Top another in the long list of your "standard features" in your totally unmodded car? Best regards, Chuck
  5. I see your membership increasing as Internet Brands seems to be alienating some folks..nice new look and feel to your new format. Obviously a lot of thought, time, and effort went into it.

  6. OK Loren....this is pretty...but I can't find your contact point. When I tried to find the moderating team and your contact point, I searched for moderator and administrator and only found one moderator. Where's the list of your team moderators and administrator? Obviously a cyber-dinosaur posting this.... :) Regards, Chuck
  7. No...the iWire plug fits exactly into the existing plug port in the back left side of the radio...but it only allows you to access the iPod when you switch to the AUX channel...you do your navigation on the iPod itself...but I mostly use a shuffle or go to the artist I want to hear. I don't consider this to be a big inconvenience considering the fact that the conversion costs you about $50. For me it's a pretty dogone good deal for the money.
  8. My neighbor and I installed the iWire in about 30 minutes...the directions that came with it are simple and easy to follow. The side console panels just unclip and access was easy with the radio removal tools they provide. I opted to drill a small hole in the back of that small receptacle compartment under the radio...for those of you who haven't changed the configuration of your stereo setups...and the iPod plug can be tucked away under there by simple pushing the wire back into the hole in back. I set the stereo to "AUX" and like stated above, you control the navigation thru the iPod from
  9. HUH??? Oil collection tanks hadn't been drained??? That's a first for me. He must have pulled that one out of the posterior part of his anatomy. Most folks who do their oil changes never mess with what little oil there might be in there. I know I don't, and neither does my indy. I think that falls under the heading of extraneous and irrelevant verbiage. Next time you go in there, ask him to explain that statement. The response will probably commence with ....Well errr, ahhhh, ummm...what I meant was ahhh.....you know...
  10. I bought a clutch setup from UMW and had it installed lcally...installation time was 9 hours @ $100 per hr plus some pentosin. 18 hours must include a coupe union breaks, going home for dinner, a siesta in the afternoon, and time out to watch the news. Call around and ask some of the independents for their flat rate manual charges for a clutch replacement. I wouldn't go OE...as long as you're going to go in there, upgrade your clutch. Get the Sachs GT2 upgrade...you wont' have to mess with it again.
  11. How about a few taps from a rubber mallet??? Neurosurgery with a hammer.
  12. I had a windshield replaced not too long ago, and I would recommend you call a high end windshield or auto glass shop and ask them. Mine has the auto dimmer in it along with the rain sensor so there has to be wires going to it and they'd know where they are and what it takes to do what you're doing.
  13. I see you had about a half dozen or more suggestions for a battery over on Rennlist too! Considering this as a democratic society, I'd say the majority vote was for a battery.
  14. Sounds like the battery is going bad...it will take a charge but won't hold it. It shows 14 volts while the alternator is putting juice in it but wont' hold the charge. Have it load tested.....but I'd start with a new battery first.
  15. Yes, I have Kevin's clutch....the only different thing I did was rather than pay for a new dual mass flywheel, I had a rebuilt one that had been resurfaced....the rest was the new SACHS GT (2 or 3?? don't remember) upgraded clutch. Kevin strongly suggested I go with the lightweight flywheel, but I opted to stay with the dual mass. I've heard too many grouses about the rattle of the LWFW....and quicker spoolup wasn't something I was particularly hot on....I wasn't looking to shave .05 off my 0-60 times. My only complaint is a bit of chatter in reverse which requires more gas to overcome it.
  16. Alex, James, and Dan are the folks at Sharkwerks.....they've done some work for me in the past and they're known in the Bay Area as reliable, professional, and knowledgeable folks. They are board sponsors on some of the Porsche forums. They primarily deal with EVOMsit as a flash along with other EVOM products, and can accomodate and install just about any sort of upgrade you have the money to pay for. Chuck
  17. So I guess you're saying that the folded over O ring was the cause of the poor performance of your clutch, and you didn't actually need to replace it? Aside from the fact that the new system operates on DOT fluid rather than Pentosin, what other benefit do you see. I drive an 02TT X50 and other than the fact that I burned thru a clutch when I went with upgraded wastegates, the Europipe 100 cell cat free flow exhaust, and a flash tune, the upgraded GT2 Sachs clutch works just fine. The clutch pressure is constant and the engagement is at the same point consistently. I have had to change
  18. Usually when you see a .4 level of boost, it means there's a leak in the hose....it goes into limp mode as an indicator of an air leak....check the hose connection. I think you diagnosed your own problem. I had a bad connector in one of the hoses to my intercooler and it would come undone once in a while....immediately followed by a .4 level of boost...
  19. Contact EZcookn (Kab)....he bought several embroidered Porsche jackets when he was down in Mexico...they were absolutely stunning. The embroidery was clear and sharp...colors were fast....beautiful jackets.
  20. I just went and had my DMV smog check run on my 02 996 TT that's running the 100 cell cats on the Europipe system, and the mechanic remarked how clean the numbers were. California has some of the most stringent smog requirements, so I'm very pleased with the results produced by the EP exhaust system....but of course you have to remember that none of the smog shops have a four wheel dyno, so they're getting the results from the up-your-kazoo tailpipe readings using the probe.....but bottom line is that the numbers were spectacular. My compliments to Stef and his design and quality builds.
  21. I cant' answer your questions about the tensioner upgrades or some of the upgrades done to the old versions since I have an 87 and most of my knowledge base is around the 86-89 era. As macuda said...the PPI is an end to end inspection looking for obvious oil leaks, broken or frayed hoses, belts (carry an extra one of those too) brakes...PLUS the emergency brake since it's separate from the rears....mine rolled out of the driveway because they missed the ER brakes on the PPI...ended up on the neighbors lawn. Your emergency kit should contain the most common points of failure...and do yourse
  22. John: For a trip of that distance, you'd need a really good PPI done first to give it a clean bill of health. I will say that a 2,000 mile trip in an unknown is an adventure. I bought mine in near pristine condition and even then the CDI ignition box went out on it...hoses had gotten hard and brittle over the years (87 930S), brakes needed replacing in front....tire condition should be looked at closely...not only for overall condition insofar as cracks in sidewall goes...but the DOT date of manufacture. Some have "new tires" that were actually manuafctured over 6 years ago. Carry an extr
  23. You either have to have a PST2 or PIWIS to check the activation of the fan or drive the hell out of it then turn it off and wait for the thermostat to kick in. Usually, mine will kick in about a minute after I shut it off in the garage.
  24. Loren is right about the hydraulic hose to the power steering....this appears to be a more common failure than we'd like to see...and is something you don't want to mess with. There have been a number of unfortunate car fires as a result of that hydraulic fitting failing (usually accompanied by a high pitched whine) spraying Pentosin around and it it highly flammable....resulting in an engine fire. With regard to the vibration in the clutch pedal, I believe jpflip is right. If you find a picture of a clutch setup, you'll see that the pressure plate has a number of "fingers" on it that eng
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