Chuck Jones

Would you please telling me where is the ventilation holes, Front shell, airco radiators, water radiators? Are they located inside of the front bumper?

Any links or picture for DIY?

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You might want to start with the owner's manual....and look at the front of your car....yes, inside the front bumper.

Hi Alain,

I'm in Atlanta, GA. I checked the parts listed here and they should be

996.111.984.03 or 996.111.984.04 Left muffler

996.111.985.03 or 996.111.985.04 Right muffler

What's the best way to get them from you? Paypal? Check?

I've never shipped something like this so I'm a bit in the dark about how to get it done.

Chris

I just shipped a set of mufflers from California to Florida...weight was about 45 pouns and the size of the box big enough to hold two mufflers ended up costing $60 via UPS. Hope that gives you an idea, even though you're only shipping one. The Box Store has all the materials to do this for you for an additional $20....makes it easy.

$800 to replace a coolant tank??? Holy Smokes....I'm going to go into the business. I bought the tank from Sunset for $168, and even though I'm not what you'd call a master mechanic....using the DIY pictures and instructions from this forum, I printed out the pictures and text and did it myself. Someone who knows what they're doing can probably get thru it in 30 minutes.

I don't see how this can be an $800 fix....hells bells...even if they charged $150 an hour, that would be four hours labor plus a $200 part. I'm a novice and have never done a DIY project on a Porsche.... and I did it in two hours.

"...........is there anything I should be looking for on the car that could warn me to a potential problem"

Yeah....as nice as that car is, I watch out for someone trying to steal it.....

Great looking car.

Holy Smokes......I'm used to hearing about "bird strikes" for aircraft...not Porsches. But come to think of it, the groundspeeds may have been similar.... :rolleyes:

thanks i hope i can get the new mirrors. really looking forward to some 997 mirrors. I think the 996 mirrors are fugly

Richard:

If we're going to be seeing a lot of you....you might tone down your entry into the 996 arena a bit. Calling our 996 mirrors "fugly" on your first post is not exactly the way to ingratiate yourself to the crowd. I, as well as quite a few folks here.... like them. <_<

Sorry to hear about your situation. I don't think it's funny. Prob why the others moved out! Get a have-a-heart trap and take little kitty for a ride. I don't have any suggestions for the odor.

I agree with PJSslow....I used to have a herd of cats that pissed on everything. I made the mistake of leaving the window open on my truck one night. That took about 6 months to get the smell out...I just got the humane traps...rented them from the SPCA...caught them and took the trap and contents back to the SPCA...as long as you do it humanely, and the cats are on your property, you can't get into any hot water. However you may want to trap them where folks can't see the traps. Sometimes you will incur the wrath of the animal lovers and find your car keyed or other "happenings". Don't get me wrong...I do not dislike cats....but I do dislike the God awful pee-smell and cat crap they leave in the flower beds and in/on certain objects around the house. The fact you have the car in the garage will take care of part of the problem.

Slope: If you're wondering about the folks who modify the mufflers....what you want is the muffler off of a 02-03 3.6L engine and then you would modify it to either the MKI or the MKII designs. These produce a sound that some folks say is about 80% the same as the PSE mufflers. Some of the guys have also modded the 3.4L mufflers.

If that's what you're trying to do, then there are a number of discussion threads along with pictures that you can find both here and on Rennlist. Do a search for "muffler mods"...or "modding the 3.6L muffler" or other search terms using those basic words.

If that's not what you want to do, then I've just wasted storage space on this forum.

I just had to replace both horns in my 930...and I found a great set of "Italian air horns" with the two-tone sound @ 137 db in the Griot's catalog. They were only $39 and sound just great...loud too. They're actually a very smal and compact set of air horns with the small compressor inside the horn module. Really a neat setup for that price.

Usually items that use a "stick-on" compound can be removed by taking a long piece of fairly strong dental floss and running it under the lip of the cover and slowly work it downward with a back and forth motion. The dental floss won't cut into the underlying surface but will cut thru the adhesive provided it hasn't set up rock hard. Most of those stick on applications use an adhesive that doesn't harden. Chuck

I'm not saying that the dealerships will take advantage of you....but as an example....my wife took her new Toyota Forerunner in for the "regularly scheduled 30K service" . I picked her up at the dealership where she dropped off the car, and she gave me her copy of the estimate.....which when I read it, I about had a coronary. They had all sorts of add-ons that just didn't make sense. Her estimate was around $450. I got out the factory book and turned to the back where they had all the maintenance schedules broken down by tasks required to maintain the warranty. When I got done crossing off non-essential service, the bill came down to $130 and the service manager admitted that the "extra stuff" was done as a "convenience" for the customer. Convenience? A $320 convenience? I don't think so.

I'm not saying your particular dealership would tack on those sorts of non-essential charges....but you have to realize that the dealerships make a lot of money off servicing vehicles....and many times the service manager is under the gun from the company execs to bring home the bacon....at your expense.

Make sure that what you're paying for is really something that is required to maintain your warranty....and so much of that is something you can do on your own....just keep the receipts in a vehicle file for the filters, plugs etc.

My '03 Boxster has 32k miles, I called the dealer today to find out how much the 30k service cost and quoted me $975!! What do they do that costs so much? Can I do it myself or take it to an independant and have them do the work? Any ideas? Thanks

I think Loren could chime in here with info on how involved the 30K service is. I've got my 30K maintenance coming up right about now...and you can also take a look at your manual that came with the car and it should show what needs to be done. You may find that some of the things the dealership wants to do...may not be something that's "required" according to the service schedule. Sometimes the service departments throw extra parts/labor into the maintenance that may not be necessary.

I've got something very similar on my '99 C2. It was done about 5 years ago here in the states. The only difference is the diameter and routing of the stainless steel tubing. I've been very pleased with it, although admittedly there is increased vibration at idle.

I just did this modification with a set of MY02 mufflers off a 3.6L engine....but routed it differently and used the 2.5 inch stainless pipe. I posted pictures and the entire process over on the Rennlist forum. Search under "Modding the 3.6L muffler for a MKII design" and you will find all the details. I just finished up the car and had a friend do a drive by for me...the sound is fantastic and has been compared to the PSE mufflers. It even looks like the PSE's without the vacuum solenoid. From what I understand, both of these mods give you a great result.

Database sounds like a good idea, but there are a lot of variables to consider. Here's a few:

1. Track car

2. Track & Street Car

3. Street Car, Daily driver

4. Occasional driver

5. Garage Queen

6. Number of owners

7. Driving technique

8. C2, C4, C4S

9. Turbo, NA

10.Coupe/Cab/Targa

11.Performance Mods?

12.Lease/buy

etc.etc.

FWIW, My 02 Cab was delivered 1/02. Have 29K.

Leaky oil pan cover and bolts replaced under warranty at 21K.

Out of warranty now, but still dealer serviced. Has had 30K + annual a few months ago. No problems. I guess you could call it a GQ+ altho it had made a couple of trips back and forth from Cape Cod to FL, so it does get exercised. Stored last 2 winters. No track, no other problems. (sounds like it's for sale :) it's not)

MY99 C2. Bought it with 18K on it and now have 31K after a year. Replaced the coolant tank and the tank cap after both failed..... Front hood latch froze up, and that's about all that's gone wrong. Oh yes...the clutch seems to engage a bit high up in the return travel...but it's not slipping so I've lived with it. I bled the clutch at the suggestion of Loren, and that seemed to help it. Chuck

Supposed to be the best quality around - here's a sound clip:

http://videos.g33kd.net/Shark%20Wer...ilton%20345.mov

I don't know what kind of break we could get on pricing, I just wanted to see how much interest there was, if any.

The link wouldn't work for me....would you please check it?

I heard great reviews for Adv Leather's restoration work. I may need to take my MB there to fix a few things.

For condition, I use Zaino, which gives a great leather smell.

I find it fascinating how a question about a good leather product can yield so many different answers from folks who are absolutely sold on the particular product. When I bought my 930, it had been stored under wraps for a few years and the leather seats had gotten a bit stiff and unpliable (word?). I did a lot of research and came up with Dr. Jackson's leather rejuvinator. It brought back the seats to their original texture and condition...and like all the other folks who responded to this question....I swear by this stuff. So I guess I can throw my hat in the ring with all the other great product lines.

You need to find the source of your leak.

If it is external - that is actually good. A bad hose, or radiator, or coolant tank, or cap are cheap compared to coolant in your oil.

I would pressure test the coolant system (to locate the leak) and I would change the oil and look for coolant in the oil (not a good sign - but if the oil is clear of coolant then you can be pretty sure that the leak is external).

Not hijacking this thread...and this is sort of relevant to the issue at hand about testing systems...but I have one of those Stant kits for pressure testing cooling systems....but it only has the adapters for American cars. It's the nice chrome kit with the pump and pressure gauge on it. Is there an adapter that would allow me to use the pressure tester on Porsches?

I saved the old cap I had when I had to buy the new one due to leakage.....and I was wondering if it would be feasible to make an adapter out of that cap and would that work for pressure testing? What pressure does the 996 run at?

If you have just contributed to the site Loren should have you updated shortly. He's pretty quick. Welcome aboard!

You'll find a wealth of info here as well, the TSB's access (viewing, not printing) is worth every penny of contribution.

Yes...I'd like to add my welcome and reiterate that you will find that contribution comes back to you many times over. The DIY section in here is outstanding. I'm a relative newbie and I've done two DIY's using the directions and input from other members.

Loren oversees this forum continually...and any questions you might have are answered expeditiously.

Most common cause is the coolant tank is cracked.

I started out with a leaking cap and about a month after I put on the new cap, the coolant tank let go. The coolant tanks are renouned for cracking...but it's really hard to see the crack sometimes....the better pressure retention from the new cap can cause the older coolant tanks to finally let go. I haven't had any more problems since I replaced both.

No the emergency release for the hood can sometimes be accessed thru the hole to the side light on the passenger's side if you're lucky enough to be able to see and snag it..I had to get to it when my manual cable release for the front latch froze up with groceries inside. I couldn't get to it and ended up taking the front bumper off to free up the latch. The cable is actually behind the headlight and not in the same area as the fuel filler. I ended up rerouting it so it came out by the front right radiator where I can actually find the **** thing.

Loren: I ordered the ...what Sunset calls the fuel door actuator....I order it from Sunset today...it's $30 and is actually a module and not just the plastic arm that slides forward. We can tackle that when I get the car back from the detailers. There seems to be a lot of interest in a good DIY with photos and I'd like to do one up with you for posting.

Oh...and Clickman...it's good to see that there are at least two idiots that read this forum. Nothing is stupid proof!

I bought and installled the spoiler indicator from Stefen in Germany (ebay). I think it is a great product and appreciate the visual of the spoiler operation. This is of course just allowing the spoiler to operate as designed. I have not seen a need to raise and lower the spoiler manually except for cleaning.

I just look in my rear view mirror and can see the top of the spoiler sticking up just above the bottom of the rear window...I guess you'd call this a "manual" gauge. It works for me....and it's cheap! When I slow down, it disappears...that means it's down. :rolleyes:

Let me know if you chip your car, I have the rest on my car and love it but wonder if the GIACC is worth the extra $$$$. Speaking of ROW 0030, buy it, I have it and love it!

I have the GIAC flash, EVO CAI, Schnell headers/mufflers as well as PSS9's...and I love what it did for me. I had a Pcar buddy who was thinking about mods drive mine, then I drove his without any mods, and both of us agreed that my car was a bit faster. Now, whether that equates to being worth the $4K I put into it making if "feel faster" (no dyno confirmation) remains to be seen. I definitely do not believe that there is a collective add-on horsepower gain from all the mods....in other words, the claims that the mufflers add X HP, and the EVO CAI adds X HP along with the X HP gains from the headers...does not compute. You might see a 20 HP gain from ALL of the mods together, but certainly not the cumulative horsepower gains from a total of the mods. Is that worth $4K to you? Probably not. What seems to get the guys is the spectre of "all those horsepower gains" advertised by the various manufacturers. I think that butt dynos sell more mods than any advertising campaign could ever hope to.

I have not seen any description in any shop manual.

Let me have a look at Chuck Jones' car and we will try to take pics and write it up.

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I should get my car back from the body shop this week...and if you're available Loren, we can tackle it. I'll order the shaft to have it on hand. I broke mine thinking the black ring in the door frame was the emergency release for the hood, and I yanked on it till it broke......yeah I know....read the manual. We can photograph the steps taken to get to this for your RennTech DIY's.

I enjoyed our little drive....although you took my 930 through some maneuvers I haven't tried. I did grab the door handle one time :) ...

I have the 99 996 with the mechanical release and the front latch jammed...I finally had to take the bumper off to get at the latch...but Loren is right...I ended up re-routing the cable release from the area behind the passenger's side headlamp...and brought it down to the area in front of the tow hook....then attached a black zip tie to it and stuffed the silver wire loop back up under the rubber trim so that only the thin black zip tie is showing...can barely see it but it's easier to just pull the zip tie to drop the wire cable down where you can grab it....a lot easier to get to than fishing around for it thru the side marker light or taking off the wheel lining.

Chuck,

Yes, the fuel door is armed as part of the alarm system.

If it fails to arm you will get a beep when you lock the car (the same beep you get if any other zone is "open").

I can check that fuel filler flap is the cause of the alarm beep with my PST2 (or Durametric software).

If that is the cause we can see how hard it is to take the evap canister out.

That would be GREAT Loren....it's a bit disconcerting to have the car continually give that warning beep....if something other than the fuel door is open, I wouldn't be able to discern the difference. We'll get together....I will go ahead and order the fuel door locking shaft from Porsche. I have been unable to find anything on the process or procedure for getting in there.