ScottArizona

Well, My post below chronicled the problems I have been having with my tip...nothing earth shattering, just a car that does not shift right in certain conditions (such as stop and go traffic). The dealer has now had it for a few days, and here is the rub: They say they have tracked down everything it could be, and are still not sure, but that everything is "pointing" to a bad tiptronic control unit. The problem is that the service advisor has quite candidlly told me that once they install the new unit, its mine and that they can't take it back because of something about how it is programmed for a specific car. This would not ordinarily be a problem except that they want 2700.00 for the stupid thing. I have not yet spoken to the tech who is currently out to lunch, but I plan to do so. Here are my questions for the board: 1. Is it in fact the case that once the tcu is installed and programmed it can't be used in another car? I'm trying to figure out if they are just blowing smoke regarding their reason why they would not be able to refund my money if a new tcu does not fix my problem. 2. I have already checked with board sponsor sunset, and they can beat my dealer's price by almost 1,300!!!! I mentioned this to my dealer and they said they would install the party regardless of where I buy it. However, is installing this something that an independent could do, or does the installer have to have the proprietary Porsche software/computers? 3. The service advisor said that a used unit (from a damaged car for example) would not work because once programmed for a car, it can't be reprogrammed. Does this sound right? 4. What do you guys think about the diagnosis? I really don't want to spend 2-3k if this is not going to fix my problem. Of course, all of this is great timing. Any advice would be much appreciated. Scott.

That's so funny that you mention that. I had a dream last night that the mechanic left the instructions for the transmission change IN the transmission and that the paper got sucked somewhere it shouldn't (can you tell this problem has been dominating my thoughts? I just love this car so much, it sucks when it doesn't "feel" right). I actually wouldn't be surprised if you were right...something clogging some valve somewhere...that is exactly what it feels like (also, I had a neighbor put on his OBD II scanner last night just to ensure no codes have emerged...still clean). I'll post an update. Scott.

Well, I've got my dealer appt. set up for this friday, but my tiptronic woes seem to be on the increase. Today I notice a bit of "surging" or rpm "pulsing" in 5th gear, when cruising at the lower end (around 50-55 mph). At first I thought I was inadvertantly depressing the gas pedal on a bumpy road, but I have since determined that the rpm surge is not due to my lazy right foot. Also, I've noticed a bit of shuddering when attempting to pull from low speeds in 3rd and 4th gear. It doesn't do it if I try to accelerate very slowly, or if I slam it hard enough to induce a downshift. Finally, in manual mode today, shifting up from 2 to 3rd at high rpm I detected a bit of lag, almost like the transmission was slipping a bit before the car shifted up to the next gear. Maybe I'm just being neurotic but it seems like the problems are increasing. I'll update the board after I hear back form the dealer.

Norton-sp, I actually do manage to drive my car in manual mode a bit. However, one area where the automatic is just a hoot is slamming the pedal to the floor at about 70-80 mph and watching the car downshift to 3rd and pull STRONG at such a high speed. I've surprised a number of "faster" cars which didn't seem to be able to hang with the tip carrera given the perfect downshifts available with a tiptronic car. On another note, car seems to be a bit better since the fluid top off, but I'm still detecting a bit of disconcerting "lurchiness." Although I haven't really driven in the conditions that seem most likely to induce the hard shifting, I've got an appointment with the dealer later this week to see what is going on. I'll keep you all posted.

I am going to pick up the car in about an hour. However, I just became a "contributing member" and decided to peruse the TSB's, and lo and behold, there is a TSB that appears to cover my problem exactly! It is TSB 6/02, and describes how the tiptronic control unit adapts poorly to stop and go driving! Only problem is that the TSB seems to state that the problem only exists as to 02 or newer cars. The other bad thing is that if this is my problem, the fix is a new control unit and a labor charge of 130 time units (I don't even know what that means but it doesnt sound good!). I guess we'll see what happens when I pick up my car.

Izzy, That is very interesting. I just got off the phone with the independent mechanic. He said they found the fluid "minimally low," and only had to add "a bit." As a cynical lawyer, I'm guessing this translates into "holy crap the thing was 2 liters low." What troubles me, however, was your report that the manual indicates 9 liters. My mechanic not 20 minutes ago said that his manual indicates 4.5 liters (thus the indication of 5 liters on my invoice?) What gives? Sounds like I need to try to get a hold of the factory spec so I can confirm for him. Thanks all for the help, it has been invaluable. Loren, I'm going to join the ranks of the contributing members TONIGHT!

Well, here is a preliminary update: just checked my invoice and it indicates only 5 liters of atf fluid was used (approx. 5.3 quarts if I'm not mistaken). Based on Izzy's recollection that he used almost 7 quarts, I could be running significantly low! I think I'll be calling the independent shop where I had my service done tomorrow.

Izzy, I hope you are right. I just spoke to the independent, who has always really treated me right, and they immediately offered to check the fluid level. Their suspicions are the same as yours: probably a bit low on fluid. I hope I owe you a cheeseburger soon! Thanks again for your thoughful responses. Scott.

Well, I just returned from my freindly neighborhood autozone, and wouldn't you know it...no codes. I'm actually kind of bummed...was hoping I'd get some codes that would at least shed some light on the problem I'm experiencing. I verified that their scanner was an OBD II device, but the employee seemed to think it wouldn't return any codes if there was not a check engine light present (I'm sure this is wrong based on Loren's above post). So, if I have no codes, can I rule out low fluid? What could be causing this problem that would not throw a code? I'm starting to wonder if I shouldn't just take it to the dealer.

Awesome guys. Thanks for the suggestions. Can I get the codes at the local autozone with their reader, or do I need to take it somewhere (like a dealer) with the more sophisticated readers they have? (forgive my naivete regarding the different types of code readers). Thanks again guys.

I'm a bit worried about my tiptronic tranmission. Car is 1999 C2 tip with 65k. Transmission service performed by independent at 60k. Upshifting is great, smooth and quick, just as it always has been. Lately, however, I've noticed that downshifting, especially at lower speeds, can be very jerky, with miscellaneous clunks and thumps, as the transmission appears to be hunting for the right gear. This is most pronounced when forcing a downship (by getting on the throttle) from 4th to 3rd at low car speeds (30-40mph). The clunking, jerking, and transmission "hunting" from 4th to 3rd does not seem to happen at higher speeds or engine speeds. Also, it seems worse when the tiptronic shift map is in a more conservative mode (i.e., after I've been in stop and go traffic for a while and the car is a bit warm). Could it be that the independent botched the service and my fluid levels aren't high enough? Honestly, the transmission never felt as smooth after the transmission service, something I just chalked up to the fact that I had installed a K&N cold air intake around the same time. I'm worried...downshifting is definately not as smooth as it once was, and is downright troubling at times (i.e., after stop and go traffice tyring to induce a down shift from 4th to 3rd at low speeds). I plan to take it back to the independent shop, but thought I'd arm myself with any info you guys might have to offer first. thanks so much. Scott.

Thanks for all the responses guys. I think I'm going to try the tin foil trick. One question: To reset the computer, isn't it sufficient to just disconnect the neg. battery cable for 2-3 hours? (i.e., necessary to leave the key in the ignition?). Thanks, Scott.

Hello all. I just recently installed some GHL mufflers on my dad's 02 996 tip. THinking about getting some for my 99. The quality and fit were great, and the sound is just perfect with absolutely NO resonance or droning. However, I can feel a slight exhaust leak where the muffler inlet pipe attaches to the cats. I've pretty much torqued it down as far is it will go (with the pipes hot even), and the leak is still present. I think what has happened is that the muffler pipe that attaches to the cat pipe via the stock double-clamp sleeve is just a bit smaller in diamter than the stock muffler pipe. Thus, I can't get the sleeve to seal up the entire circumfrence of the muffler pipe. In fact, the sleeve appears slightlycrimped in one spot, and this is where I can detect a small amount of exhaust leaking. I took the car to the local midas, and they chuckled and said the leak was minor and not to worry about it. I'm anal about such things however, and the midas employee admitted to being very unfamiliar with porsches, so here are my three questions: 1. Will these leak cause any problems? Looks like the leak is after the o2 sensor, so it shouldn't cause any problems with the fuel mixture, should it? 2. Will these leak affect performance? 3. If the answer to any of these questions is "yes," how do you guys recommend I fix the problem? (the midas guy said they could weld it, but I'm hesitant to do anything that permanent). Youre input is appreciated. Scott.

My bet is that you didn't actually hit the limiter, but that your mass air flow sensor is going out or is already gone. When mine went out (the K&N air intake finally did it in), I was accelerating when I had a momentary loss of power that felt like a limiter kicking in prematurely (I was at about 5-6k rpm). All was fine 'till I coasted to a stop, where the revs dipped to the point where the car stalled. It did this at every stoplight until I got home. Autozone reader showed a code indicating a mass air flow sensor problem. Several attempts at cleaning the sensor with electrical contact cleaner, and replacement of the stock airbox didn't eliminate the CEL, so I sprang for a new sensor and all has been well since. Let us know what you find out. Scott.

Hi, The car got serviced yesterday and the dealer didn't mention ATF level was low (I forgot to mention this issue, but it's going back for some more work in a week or so). I will try again using the manual select to second and see. I suspect it is torque convertor. My jeep does something similar (but much less noticable) when it's torque converter "locks up". I'll report back. Thanks Darrin Hey there, I know this is an old thread but I was just wondering what happened with your tiptronic? I just had my transmission service done (new fluid, filter, gasket, etc...) and I'm now noticing this hesitation in second. Is yours still hesitating? Any info would be great, thanks.

Wow. Really sorry to hear that. Rather than shelling out for a new motor, you could always shop for one used (ebay typically has engines for around 6k). Of course, that is always risky as you will never really know what you are getting. Another option I've heard kicked around is sending your engine to a UK outfit (I think it is called Autofarm...try a google search) that has this process called silsleeve or sile sleeve something like that. They will basically bore out your engine, increase displacement if you desire, and then sleeve it (supposedly good as new). I'm not sure how the cost would compare to a used engine or new replacment engine, but it might be cool to take the opportunity to add some horesepower. I also think they have a good warranty on there sleeved engines. It might be worth a check. If I might ask, how many miles on your car (I've got a 99 3.4 C2 tip with 60k). Good luck and keep us posted. Scott.

Thanks Izzy. I too use an old hockey puck. One question: If I recall correctly, this spot on my car has two distinct "nubs" that are stepped/offset just a bit (i.e., the large one protrudes downward just a bit longer than the smaller nub). Do you center the puck on one or the other, or just place it in the center of the two nubs?

Hey guys, sorry to resurrect an old thread that beat this topic to death, but I wanted to make absolutely sure I've selected the right location on the engine from which to jack up the rear of the car. I've circled what I believe to be the right location in the picture below. Is this it? Thanks!

Bill, what is a stat-o-seal? Does it go on the threads? The bolt head? Would I have to drain the oil? thanks.

If you go to the K&N website, click the link for the "air charger" series of products, I believe the part number is 63-7000. I could be wrong about the 63, but I'm sure the last four digits are 7000.

Yes Loren. The seepage comes right out from under the head of the bolt. I tightened it last night just a tad and cleaned the area. Will check tonight to see if the leak persists. If that doesn't work, would you recommnend draining oil then reinstalling the bolt with some RTV? This seems like strange place to have a leak, unless I'm somehow missing the actual source, but the entire area around the bolt was dry last time I checked.

Loren, below are two pictures of the bolt where the leak is occuring. In the first picture, the culprit is the bolt that is just to the left of the center oil pan bolt. To give you a point of reference, this bolt is towards the front of th car just forward of the oil pan. Although there is oil visible on many of the bolts in this picture, the only one leaking is the one I have pointed out (the oil leaks from there and migrates elswhere). The second picture is a close up of the leaking bolt. Thanks for the help!!!!

Here are some pics of the final product.

I'll see if I can post some tonight!

I installed the new K&N cold air intake. Thought hard about the evo, but reviews of the K&N seemed good, and the price was definately better ($299 vs. $600). My dad and I had just installed the evo v-flow unit on his 3.6l cab tip (mine is a '99 3.4l coupe tip) and we both thought it was great, but I was eager to try out the K&N for comparison purposes (and because of the better price). I purchased my unit from Vivid Racing in Chandler, AZ (which is actually just about 2 miles form my home). K&N claims 23 rwh, and vivid claimed they dynoed several installations and saw around 16. If that is indeed accurate, then this mod would obviously be a great bang for the buck. Here are my observations: 1. Installation: much, much, more involved and difficult than the evo unit. The K&N instructions were really bad. The intructions were predominantly in the form of a series of poor quality photographs. The most frustrating thing, however, is that the instructions do not specifically refer to the hardware needed for each step (i.e., they say things like "attach heat sheild assembly to heat sheild wall with supplied hardware as shown). So, you have to resort to examining a microscopic exploded view of the unit and trial and error to get the right bolts, nuts, and washers in the right holes. We actually even had to cut one bolt down to get it to fit right. The intall took several hours, but everything is now bolted in well. No odd noises or sounds. 2. OVerall design and build quality: build quality is probably slightly better than the evo. The K&N design is probably slightly worse. K&N did not seem to put as much effort into sealing off the filter area from hot engine air, unlike the evo, which at least appears to do a much better job in this area. Also, the evo comes with only a few major components that need assembling, whereas the K&N unit seems to be in hundreds of peices (including harware). This means that there is a fair amount of adjusting you have to do with the K&N to get everything to fit right (especially lining up the stock fresh air supply duct that comes down from the engine lid with the heat shield that hosues the filter). However, I will say that once the K&N unit is together and adjusted, it fits great...it just takes more effort and trial and error than the evo. 3. Sound. Very impressed here. The sound is really no different than stock at lower rpm's but like the evo, the sound is much more agressive at around 3k and up. The K&N is a bit throatier than the evo on my dad's 3.6, but I don't know how the K&N on my car would compare to an evo on another 3.4. The sound is more like a boxster with its nice intake noise at high rpm's, except deeper. Resonance is not bad at all, but I guess if you were driving at 5k rpm for an extended period of time it could get annoying. From outside the car the sound is definately not obnoxious, and to me sounds nice and exotic...like a porsche should sound. I thought the evo unit sounded louder form outside the car, but again, I'm comparing a K&N on a 3.4 to an evo on a 3.6. Both the evo and the K&N appear to be about the same loudness form inside the car with the windows up. 4. Performance: The car DOES seem faster. However, I genuinely cannot tell if that perception is due to the sound or is actual. I don't really care either way, however, as the fact that the car feels faster (both to me and a few of my passengers) is good enough for me. My wife really enjoyed the new sound (and she also confirmed that the car felt quicker) when we went in a run in separate cars so I could hear the car from the outside...she couldn't wipe the smile off of her face...which is obviously a good thing. Conclusion: My thought is that the price was well worth it. So far no check engine lights or other problems at all, although i've only got about 70 miles on it. The sound is great and the increased performance (real or imagined) is good too. I hope some of you find this helpfull. I'd be happy to answer any questions. Scott.