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About 78F350

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  • From
    NE Oklahoma
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    '99 Boxster base
    Lots of Honda Del Sols
    87 Suzuki Samurai tin-top
    Big old Ford Truck
  • Future cars
    2001-2003 Boxster S
  • Former cars
    1971 VW Convertible
    MB ML430
    BMW 1802
    BMW 525i
    BMW 740i
    Several Volvo 850s

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  1. Hello, I have a CDR-210 that I need a code for: Model BE 2282 Serial V5016934 Thanks for any assistance.
  2. This was awesome to find posted here. I am working on some re-wiring for a swap and was searching for validation of my DME 7.2 spreadsheet. The only difference that I found between this 7.2 pin-out and mine is that I have CAN High and CAN Low reversed - I am working with a 2000 S (986). Connector IV (or D), I show CAN High on 36 and CAN Low on 37 (as is shown on the 7.8). -Thanks for posting-
  3. I have used this DIY article twice now. Once with a 1999 Boxster and once with a 2004 S Special Edition. Thanks to Carman356 for posting it over 10 years ago. The most recent time, I recorded video as I replaced the Brake Booster. Here's the video in case it can help anyone out in the future:
  4. Just a little follow-up for anyone interested. My oil change at about 600 miles looked good. Clean looking oil with no debris. There was a trace of fine dust sized particles on my filter magnets - less than I get with a normal 5000 mile oil change. Other problems have come up with the car, as expected. -The steering rack developed a leak and had to be replaced. I suspect that water intrusion with the fluid damaged the seals. -The brakes started sticking. a little water had leaked into the brake booster and started to corrode it inside. This DIY article came in handy: -On a couple occasions the throttle went dead (no response to the gas pedal) for a moment. That problem seems to have cleared up by cleaning the connections on the throttle transducer above the pedals behind the dash. All together not an easy or inexpensive project, but it has been very rewarding in the experience and joy of making something broken and discarded into a magnificent machine.
  5. The car now has a 'rebuilt' title and is running well. If I was to do it all over again, I would start by pulling and cleaning the sump plate before trying to flush the engine with oil. There was some moisture and fine sediment outside the baffle, that will never drain just by flushing oil through. The crank and internal engine appeared to be very clean other than the sump plate. I have put about 200 miles on it now and will be doing an oil change soon. As for the rest of the car, much of the electronics, most of the relays, and almost every motor (top motor, trunk opener, spoiler, HVAC blower...) were all bad. Having a good collection of parts from a collision damaged on hand made it easy to correct all that.
  6. The immo was pretty bad. I cleaned it anyway just for fun and it looked good until a few of the tiny corroded resistors fell off. I have a new complete set, so no worries. Steering wheel airbag is removed - I put an old 4-spoke steering wheel in until the major work is done on the car. All fuses are removed and I'll only put essential ones in for the first start. Here in Oklahoma, for a car over 10 years old, I just have to show receipts for repairs to put the car back on the road - and drive to Canada.
  7. Good suggestion, and yes, I have a cheap eBay scope-camera. I'll give that a try.
  8. Today I removed the spark plugs. Some oil with a trace of water came out of bank 1, but bank 2 was dry. The primary O2 sensors were removed the to drain oil and water from the exhaust. I sprayed in fogging oil into the cylinders until it flowed back out. Next I removed the throttle body and T, then sprayed fogging oil in both sides of the plenum. The engine turned easily and smoothly by hand. I'm not comfortable powering up the car yet (I need to check all electronics for flood damage), so I jumped the starter with a battery pack. At first, it turned so smoothly and quietly that I though the solenoid wasn't engaged. To get the oil flowing, I did plenty of on and off turns for about 20 minutes. I'm going to work on flushing oil next. A good marine oil was recommended for initial treatment. After I verify there is clean oil coming out when I drain it, I'll close it all back up, install the new immobilizer box & DME, check the fuel (probably drain and refuel) and try a run. There's still a long way to go before knowing if it's going to be a good engine
  9. Thanks for the reply. That's what I'm hoping for. Tearing down the whole engine is not part of my plan, but I'd consider it if it's the only likely way to save it. My hope is that most of the ferrous metal would have held a light coating of oil. I'm thinking of rods, bearings, chains, and bolts. I suppose if I follow your steps and crank it first by hand with the plugs out, I'll get an idea of corrosion from the resistance.
  10. How to proceed? I have a flood salvage 2004 Boxster. There was water in the engine when I drained the oil. Lots of water, and less oil than I expected. It looks like the missing the oil had seeped out into the exhaust. The oil filter had good clean oil and no debris. The engine would not have been cranked or turned at all since the flooding, just occasionally rocked and jostled in transportation. Today, I drained all the oil and water and put in about 10 quarts of oil. I have still not even tried to turn the crank. Everything is still installed and intact in the car. I'd like to get the engine running again. Not sure if it's a lost cause, or similar to an intermix that can be cleaned up and driven again. What are your thoughts? Reference to my thread on the 986 Forum: http://986forum.com/forums/show-tell-gallery/70709-houston-04-se.html
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