Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

markdav

Members
  • Posts

    55
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by markdav

  1. Interesting - I have an early 2000 and this just started to happen (door unlock works, trunk does not). I changed the battery recently. I wonder if I need the dealer re-code. Again, good to know if dealers are charging for this kind of work.
  2. Sorry - Boxster 2000, 2.7, US, Manual, 65K miles...
  3. Backing out this morning, whenever I get past half a turn on the steering wheel, the front wheels seem to be jumping slightly - like a big alignment issue. the more I turn, the more it happens Stering whell feels normal, normal driving seems ok. I will go for an alignment check. Before I do, anything obvious to check? No work has been performed on the car and no accidents - can something like an allignment error just happen overnight? Thanks, Mark.
  4. Thank you all for the guidance. Will report back on this thread when I get the results or if the consequences of the green/yellow bits show up. Thanks, AMrk.
  5. Thanks. Are these analysis expensive (cheaper than an engine replacement I guess!)? I have the oil from this last change and have kept the filter and deposits.
  6. Thank you, No other internal maintenance done since the last water pump replacement. Could it also be the AOS on the way out? It has been 30K since last replacement. Wondering too if I should check the spark plug tubes? thinking of all the places higher up the engine that could have an oil seal that goes bad without showing itself.....
  7. Thank you. Looks like the suggestion is water pump or tank. Was this related to the picture of the gunk in the cap? I changed my water pump about 20K miles ago - failed on the bearings and broke fragments off the fins (black plastic). That was at 43K miles. I'll check it through again. Water level looks normal (I check it every month and it is right between high and low as normal. I was also wondering about the oil/water heat exchanger. Maybe I have two problems? - one causing gunk and the other causing the fragments? thank in advance. Mark.
  8. Boxster / 2000 / 2.7 / Manual / US Changed my oil on the 3000 mile mark this weekend. Everything smooth until I took a look at the drain pan and found some small bits of either rubber or silicone like material. Much more of this in the oil filter. Also some gunk on the oil cap. Pictures attached. Smaller bits appear slightly green. The longer segment shown on the black oil pan is about 1/2 inch and mustard colour (both colours may be affected by oil of course). This longer peice is slightly stretchy but breaks easily. Coolant level is at normal. Regular 8.75 quarts came out of the engine so looks like it is not taking in additional fluid. Anyone seen this kind of thing in the oil before? Pointers to where I should look first? Thanks, Mark.
  9. Thank you! - have sent you 1:1 email via the board....
  10. Thanks Loren, All checked through OK and the light went away this morning. Also I am getting 13.5ohms across the actuator pins. Does this sound right? Perhaps bad connection (though at 1 amp (~12v/~13ohms) seems strange). Thanks, Mark.
  11. Thanks - I checked the wiring last night. I got 13 ohms across the solenoid. Took a while to get a reading on the +12V on the solenoid connector but eventually got battery voltage (11.87V) Put it all back together and the light disappeared this morning. May have nudged something or maybe just takes a while to re-register the fault. All said, the replacement work is postponed until I see the light come back on. Thanks for advice about the clamp. I was thinking an alternative simple build would be a peice of L shaped aluminuim from teh local store and use short steel bolts at 4.5" spacing through self tapped holes in the aluminuim. Cut away the parts of the L bracket that interfere with the cam housing. That way avoiding welding equipment (which I don't have). Easier to work Aluminuim with saw and files.. What do you think? M
  12. For the holder, how much pressure does this need to bear. Seems like you could make it out of hardwood and dowels. Am I dreaming? Do the two dowels fit into slots in the cam shaft or just press against the ends? Thanks for your help - looks like I have a solenoid replacement job this w/e. Getting P1341 (DME 7.2).
  13. Looks like it is bad. Fault code came back. Is this easy to access to change out? Through the wheel arch / top or through service cover? The diagrams don't make it clear whether I need to remove the cam cover to replace the solenoid which would add a few hours to the job. I saw the other post of removing the cover to replace the tensioner. Also one other thing - any advice on how to test it really is the solenoid and not the tensioner? Is there an electrical test I can do easily? Thanks for advice, Mark.
  14. Thanks Loren, Will keep an eye on this. If it returns, remedy would seem to be .. trace wiring and connector faults. Actuator next? Other causes? Regards, Mark.
  15. Boxster 2000, 2.7 Manual. Slight stutter while pressing on the accelerator in 2nd gear turn (regular, not agressive) CIL goes on. OBD reports P1341 Cleared fault code, drove home normally (again, regular street, not agressive driving) , no light yet. How concerned should I be? Thanks in anticipation. Cheers, Mark.
  16. Any uk/aus/nz people on this thread? (I am US based brit) are we talking different 'G's in our MPG quotes? US Gallon is roughly 0.833 of an imperial gallon. I get about 19-22 MPG (US) which is about 23 to 26.5 MPG (Imperial). In in the Pacific NW, we can only get our hands on 92 Octane (10% Ethonol too). Thanks to the anti-knock system we can still run our Boxsters here. I was surprised at 33MPG on 93 octane, does that 1 octane really trnaslate to 8-10MPG? M.
  17. Thanks for the replies. I have owned the car since new (9th birthday in 1 month ...) No steering removal. Tires changed 2 years ago. Pressures ok. Also fill up tank to full each time. Stupid question : how does the steering get out of alignment? Do the adjustment nuts get loose? This has happened in the last 6 months so wondering what might have gone off... Thanks, Mark.
  18. Bumping this up in the hope someone can point me to some possible culprits. Steering wheel is about 5-10 degrees clockwise from straight. It drives straight with hands off the wheel. 2000 Boxster 2.7. 60K on the clock. Tires at correct pressure and with 15K on them. Thanks, MArk.
  19. +1 for water pump check. Happened to my 2000 about 2 years ago. The bearing went on the pump causing the plastic pump fins to break. Squeeled for 3 days then gushed out onto the floor of garage. Fortunately no other damage. See attached. I never found the broken peice - but no issues so assume it is sitting in the bottom of a sump somewhere below the pump.
  20. replace brake / clutch fluid every 4 years (this may be on the 60K list too) - DIY front engine mount - DIY - some good how-to articles on this board. Mark.
  21. Excellent! Gives me confidence to have a go. How hard is it to get the cover off? Doesn't "seem" like there is much to it. Also, where do you get your parts from? I heard that nothing inside the gearbox was replacable / servicable. Thanks for the pictures. Please post more if you have them.
  22. Seem related to a thread I was driving. I still have this issue. Mine is stuck 5th and may still be a bent arm. Loren - do you have a couple of photos of the tranny at various angles to show what a straight arm looks like? Hard to tell from from the picture in the attached thread. Esp the angle of the cable holder which may too be bent. One other thing - in the forum's experience, which arm most likely to get bent? thanks in advance. Mark
  23. On the bent shifter arms, should these be at right angles to the body. The one that turns the shaft (not the one that pushed and pulls it), right a tthe cable exit seems to be bent towards the rear. Another way of asking - which bits normally bend? and what is their "normal" position? Thanks. Still struggling with a sluggish shifter (see my other posts). MArk.
  24. My steering whell needs to be 5 degrees right for the car to be going straight. The steering wheel rests in the position (e.g. I don't have the steer to keep the car straight). I only noticed it in the last 2 weeks and don't recall any speed bump / pot hole incidents. What should I look for first? Thanks, Mark. 2000, 2.7, Manual, US model, 58K miles.
  25. checking in on this thread. still have 5th gear issue. one possibly dumb question - is it possible to take the gearbox cover off or are the gear bearings part of the cover? i.e. what happens if I take the black bolts out in the diagram above? A floor full of gears ot a good view into the state of the shifter forks (I suspect mine might be bent).
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.