dporto

^I agree to some extent. This is not necessarily a knock on LN, but they don’t even have any real data on serial #’s. For instance, if you give them your serial # they can’t tell you what type of bearing it is, only when it was manufactured. This doesn’t make sense to me. I realize it is what it is, it just seems weird. In my case I pulled the original bearing which turned out to be their “classic dual row”. It was in good shape and I replaced it with “The Solution”, so I’m done with my IMSB and it doesn’t matter to me at this point. However, it would have been helpful to me to know that I had a dual row bearing before I bought “The Solution” (solely so I knew which “solution” to buy). Once again, just an observation - hopefully they’ll make things a little easier for us...

Unfortunately if the install wasn't registered, it won't show in the database. It doesn't mean it wasn't done, just that it wasn't registered...Nice tool, but of limited value

Just make sure you remove your earlier version before installing the updated version...

Most people write the radio code either in the front cover of the owners manual or somewhere on the options sticker in the frunk. In my case it's in both places from a previous owner... Glad you got it figured out 

Or with one of these bearings... https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=35bd5222dum18a&ul_noapp=true

There's no doubt in my mind that the "Stealerships" know this "dirty little secret" and use it to pad their party slush funds...My local Porsche "stealership" has broken my car both times I've brought it there (for NYS inspection - $35). The first time, my passenger side window regulator "went bad"... it worked fine when I dropped the car off. They wanted $600 (and change) to fix it...no thanks! I bought the regulator for $125 and installed it myself. The second time, they blew up my steering rack - it was working perfectly when I parked the car and waited for them to do the inspection. After paying the bill ($35) I walked out to my car and noticed a large puddle near the front bumper. Upon starting the car and turning the wheel to pull out of the parking space, the car started to groan...Long story short, it was $1100 for a re-built steering rack, and they did me the "massive favor" of giving me the "internal labor rate" of $100/hr. 

With only 100 miles, it better be fine!!!  Check back in when you hit 20 - 30k ...

Could be ballast or ignitor then...

Just a quick update: I drove approximately 90 miles on Sunday and another 55 today and still no CEL. I haven't hooked up the Durametric yet to see if the 1341 code is back, but my hunch is that it isn't. In addition to the car just running great in general, my gas milage has gone from around 18 mpg to 21.8 over the last 140 miles - I'm sure this is directly attributable to the Vario-Cam operating properly now...

The low beam is the one that the ballast plugs into (#2) - it's a Xenon bulb, so you can't really mix it up with a Halogen...

JFP - I'll check into the 986 forum for that plug - Thanks (BTW - it's "itsnotanova" "a" not "e"... not too difficult to figure out though )

Ok, so we're talking about a 17-18 year old key fob (Even at their best, they never worked at 200ft. like a Toyota fob). There's a good chance it just may be plain worn out... Keeping that in mind, a fresh battery is the first thing to start with. It seems like you changed the battery in at least your #1 fob - did you change both? If yes, is there any difference in how they work? If not, there is the possibility that the switch (button) is worn/damaged, or perhaps the pc board in the fob is damaged (sometimes the solder joints will crack from flexing many thousands of times). In many cases opening up the fob and just touching all the solder joints with a hot soldering iron is an easy fix. Short of such a DIY your options are limited to getting a new fob(s) and having them programed by a dealer $$$

That's exactly why I need this plug - the lock/keeper broke off. I've found others from China that seem the same (form factor) but the original pins are larger and don't fit into the new shell...

"

"What we lack now is an explanation of why your CEL required a hard reset to clear.

It is also worth noting that some were skeptical about the usefulness of a hard reset."

  ^^Yup^^ exactly why I posted this! ** It should be noted that my "hard reset" didn't follow the prescribed technique that was outlined either earlier in this thread or maybe the other 986 thread. While that one required disconnecting the battery and essentially "shorting" the positive and negative battery cables - I simply disconnected the DME (without disconnecting the battery - I didn't do this on purpose. I just disconnected the DME sort of impulsively without really thinking about it. I don't recommend this!) in essence depriving it of power for roughly 10-15 minutes while I did a visual check of the PC board...  Good luck on your second time around! 

Did you just replace the regulator? If so, there's a stop on it that's there for the Boxter (same regulator as the 911but the boxter doors aren't as tall - hence the stop). The stop comes standard, but needs to be removed if installing the regulator on the 911...

Sorry to hear about your health issues - best wishes on recovery! Bring a Trailer or BAT for short seems to be an excellent sales vehicle for these cars - they're super popular and bring good prices (better than Craig's list, ebay etc...). Good luck !

Ah, the elusive connector... Does anyone know where to get this connector? Who the manufacturer is etc...?

So, just as sort of a footnote to this thread... My fault code was 1341 (which is Bank 1 cam angle out of range). There's a whole thread on it here if interested: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/983191-cel-came-back-finally-got-around-to-getting-a-durametric.html  Long story short, I replaced the vario-cam pads and chains as well as doing a bunch of other work. The vario-cam solenoids and actuators tested out fine before dropping my engine and doing all the work. Upon getting everything back together and starting the car, the CEL came back as well as the 1341 code. And now, I couldn't get the cam advance to activate on bank 1(with Durametric)! As the car seemed to be running very otherwise,  I decided that I would drive it while trying to figure out exactly what was going on. I certainly wasn't looking forward to dropping the motor and re-opening the bank 1 cam cover to get at the solenoid and actuator, and was beginning to second guess whether my initial test was flawed. After reading through this thread (and  another related thread in the boxter area I think) I was given some hope that the problem may be related to the DME. I also considered the "hard reset" of the DME, but as that seemed "nebulous", I decided to just dig in, remove the DME and open it up. It's very simple to get to - just pull the cart/foam trim piece behind the rear seats, remove the aluminum cover (3 screws) and unplug the module (4 or 5 locking plug mechanisms - very nicely designed). Upon opening up the DME (4 more screws) I found... ... ...(drumroll)... ... ... NOTHING! Well, not nothing, but nothing out of the ordinary! No burned components (that's a good thing) no de-soldered components etc. everything looked perfect. So, I buttoned it back up, re-connected all the plugs and put everything back together. Once again, I started the car and took it for a drive (about 25 mi.) it ran great, but the CEL remained on... Oh well, it was worth a shot. At this point I didn't have any more time, so I left the car until the following day. Upon arriving home from work (for which I use a different vehicle) I had some errands to run, so I took the Porsche. I think I put about 40 miles on it this time, but the CEL remained on. A day or two later, I took the car out again, and this time within the first 20 or so miles of driving it, the CEL went out! Wow... now my head is really spinning! When I got home, I decided to plug in the Durametric and see what's going on. The 1341 code was still present/pending, so I cleared that (which I had done several times before and since I had done all the work, and it always came back - along with the CEL). The cool part was that I was once again able to activate the vario-cam on both banks with the effects clearly noticeable...Yay! It's been about a week and a half now with roughly 80-90 miles driven and no CEL. It seems that in essence what I did was to reset the DME and clear it of any stored data by removing it from the car. While I won't be sure of the final outcome for a little while yet, I'm cautiously optimistic.

Why don't you try fitting the plugs to receptacles - it will be quickly apparent if they fit or not. Second, the length of the plug/harness might also make it obvious - or at least "more likely" where they go...Lastly, my plugs and receptacles had/have matching white & blue markings on them (most likely from a previous engine out) are you positive there are no identifying marks on them? I didn't notice these until I was ready to plug them in - I also had taken photo's for this very possibility (I wasn't even sure I had done this as it was so long ago and everything seemed like a blur by the time I was reassembling the car)...good luck

:"If none of this is the case, I have one more WILD case I remember with this code. After an engine was improperly timed and grossly out of time. it was put back in time and this code was present. Timing was check and rechecked , adjuster was replaced with known good one, sensor was replaced with known good one, wiring all tested good. Cam deviations were ERRATIC. Engine ran great. Just for ****s and giggles I did a HARD RESET of the DME,ie disconnected the the positive battery cable and touched it to the negative side (grounding the positive to deplete all capacitors).This cured the problem evidently the DME had LEARNED some bad data that it would not turn lose of."

I'm thinking of giving this a try before going back in a tearing everything apart again...

You can lower the engine by loosening the motor mount nuts. You'll only get about an inch of drop that way though...Take the nuts all the way off - make sure you support the engine with a jack before you remove them - the engine weighs close to 500 lbs...it'll drop really fast if not supported! You may have some luck on those broken bolts with "ez-out" type removers (the ones for the ouside) - if not there are several "drill out" kits available that will keep you from damaging the block while trying to drill/remove them. Good luck

Wow, great to hear this! A broken chain tensioner could have caused so much more damage - I think you got really lucky!!!

Take it to Safelite and ask them. When it comes to windshields and rear window glass, I think it's best to let those with the proper tools and experience do the work. It's also probably not very expensive. Good luck

On 6/22/2017 at 7:57 PM, gnetwerker said:

I took my C4S (about 85k miles) into the shop the other day, and my mechanic noted that there was some (not a lot) coolant weeping from the head gasket.  He said it would probably self-seal, but suggested that I might want to look toward upgrading to a 997.2 or a 991.  Any commentary on whether it is ever worthwhile (financially) to grin and bear this repair bill, sell the car, or take some other path?

Get thee to a different shop...

Unfortunately, on a 2000 M96 you've got to remove the cam cover to replace the solenoid. It's easiest to remove cam cover and reseal it if the engine is out of the car...This does indeed require many hours of disassembly...

Ah...That makes so much more sense. Mine already had a LN Classic dual row bearing installed and hence the spiro-lock... I can't imagine trying to pull the bearing past the spiro-lock...