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Everything posted by dporto

  1. "101 Projects" is a nice resource for casual/weekend type jobs... Don't kid yourself that it will help with an engine rebuild - it would be a huge and very expensive mistake. I wouldn't even trust it for something as (relatively) simple as an IMS retro fit... The Bentley manual is in a whole different league than 101 projects, but still not comprehensive for an engine re-build. The suggestion(s) above from JFP and others are good. Jake Raby/FSI are well established experts on the M96 platform and have "basically written the book" on development/repairing/upgrading the M96/97 platform
  2. +1 ^^^ Still haven't solved it. In the interim I've realized one more thing - The left turn signal also doesn't work if the fog lights are on (right signal works fine). So, it seems that for some reason either the Hi beams and/or the fog lights are shorting/canceling the left turn signal, and the left high beam is dimmer than the right... I just don't know where to go with this. The light switch is new/good as I changed it out about a year or two ago (I used to have a problem with the right low-beam/hid not lighting intermittently - the new switch fixed it (I also had the current problem with the old switch so that wasn't it). Not sure about the ignition switch - I suppose it could be the problem but it's never acted up otherwise (i.e. turning too far, not cranking, etc...) so I'm a little hesitant to start messing with it.
  3. Nope, no luck - strange as I haven’t gotten the left turn signal to blink at all with the hi beams on (last week I actually got a few blinks out of it...)
  4. Hey Joe, yeah probably a good idea. I just noticed something else also (just got back from a drive)when I pulled up my driveway I sat and messed around with it for a few minutes. A couple times I got the turn signal to flash once or twice before it stopped. This leads me to believe it's a contact - maybe in the stalk itself? I've read of people having problems with these - and all the wiring and sockets seem to be good. I'll check it some more tomorrow morning when it's light out (hopefully not raining).
  5. Had a chance to look a little further tonight. I opened up the back of the housing - all the wiring looks good (no cracked insulation or anything like that). I also checked and cleaned the connectors with De-oxit. No help, but I also noticed that occasionally if I use my left turn signal with the hi beams turned on both headlights cycle up and down in time with the flasher... if I turn the hi beams off and then turn them back on and hit the directional again, it just doesn't work - the headlights won't cycle up and down... rather bizarre behavior, but it definitely points to some interaction with the turn signal and the high beams... a relay perhaps?
  6. This problem has plagued me for quite some time, though I'm just getting around to trying to fix it now. My low beams work fine, and when I switch to high beams the sheilds do the right thing. The problem is that the drivers side halogen (high beam) bulb actually dims. Also, with the high beams switched on, my left turn signal no longer works. Has anyone else experienced this same scenario? Seems almost like there's a crossed connection somewhere that's causing too much resistance - just not sure how to go about trouble shooting it...
  7. A little background to start. I've never had a problem with this before and I've had 2 other alignments. I recently did some more suspension work (adjustable lower control/coffin arms in order to get my negative camber within spec) so brought it in again for an alignment. They had a bit of difficulty getting everything within spec as several parameters are interactive. In any case they got it close, but the steering wheel wasn't centered. Instead of adjusting the tie rod ends, I think they just popped the steering wheel off and moved it a few splines. Would this mess up the steering angle sensor so it would have to be re-calibrated? Also, I have Durametric which has a re-calibration command, but I haven't been able to get it to work yet. I reached out to Durametric and they swear the function works, so either I'm not doing it correctly or my steering angle sensor is bad...
  8. Not a small project and not a very common problem with these engines...
  9. A new Porsche branded axle is between $500 - $750. Servicing the CV is a smelly/messy job but also pretty simple. The joint itself just pulls apart, then just clean up all the old grease. You'll have to pull the inner race (star thing) off the axle shaft to get the new boot(s) on (you may as well do both while you're there). Here's a good video to help you get the inner joint back together... Good luck
  10. I wouldn't ever describe the noise made by timing chains as a "knock"... more like a "rattle", which is quite normal as the hydraulic chain tensioners get old and leak down over time. A "knock" is all together different and will be timed with the engine turning. Generally speaking these "knocks" are caused by the connecting rods on the crankshaft or the pistons ("piston slap") as they rock in the cylinder at the beginning of the up/out stroke... While these sounds certainly aren't the same as each other, they would be more consistent with a "knocking" sound as opposed to a "chain rattle"... Semantics I know, but it really does make a difference.
  11. Use some degreaser to clean up that area good before you start to run/drive it - otherwise it'll make it difficult to see a weep/leak (unless the oil is dripping out).
  12. ^^^ But only if the install was registered by the installer ^^^
  13. You need to use a gear puller to get it off the end of the shaft (I just did one of mine the other day, so I speak from experience) - it's a pretty tight press fit - used a very simple two jaw puller (but you have to take the outside part of the joint off so you just have that inner portion left on the shaft)... Good luck
  14. Yes, there is an actual product - should be near the end of the thread. It is developed by a guy on Rennlist (Porschetech3) he is having them made and marketing them himself. It utilizes the stock AOS but moves the diaphragm (the part that actually separates the oil from the air - hence having to seal the stock unit) to a location in the engine bay which makes it a easily serviceable/affordable part. The diaphragm itself retails for between $20 - $75 - depending on brand. He's bought and tested several different units and done comparisons.
  15. Always a good idea to replace the AOS if you've got the engine out (fairly cheap part and extremely difficult to do with the engine in). There is a new product available from a guy on Rennlist called "the Ultimate AOS" (UAOS). The "Ultimate AOS Solution" - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - The "Ultimate AOS Solution" - OK, I promised the Ultimate AOS Solution that would eliminate replacing the Factory AOS, but still function as designed. I will show the process here. I have even enhanced it further with a couple more small but vital components/fail-safes that are even way cooler... Perfect timing! Good luck with the head repairs 👍
  16. Just turned 160,000 mi. (on the chassis that is...) New Motor (FSI 3.8 stage II build 4300 mi. ago).
  17. You are correct sir! You'll need to remove the heads - I'm pretty sure (but not positive) you'd need to drop the engine for that. Head cracks are somewhat common for the M96 - much more common than your oil cooler/heat exchanger. I didn't realize you were in Dubai until now... That could have a real effect on how to deal with this problem. When properly repaired, the chances of the head cracking again are extremely thin. Do some reading here : Hoffman Automotive Machine (706)769-3783 – Where's Your Head? NEWSITE.HAMHEADS.COM M96 cracked cylinder head repair ^^^ These guys are the tops in the USA - not sure who you can find over there. I think a pressure test could be useful to you if done properly... Better yet, see here : 986 996 Porsche Cylinderhead Cracks Explained – Hoffman Automotive Machine (706)769-3783 NEWSITE.HAMHEADS.COM Click here to see video of a 996 3.4 M96 head being pressure tested, revealing a microscopic crack that was not visible to the naked eye. This particular head was a prime example that a head can not be judged to be crack free without being pressure tested. I know where to look, but I…
  18. Have you had the head(s) diagnosed & repaired yet? If not, I think you're chasing your tail...Putting your cart before the horse etc... etc... etc... Just because you haven't gotten coolant in the oil YET, doesn't mean it's not going to happen. Every time you heat cycle the engine, the chances of that head crack opening up/getting worse increase. You have to fix the problem, not just treat the symptom - it's not going to get better by itself. Good luck
  19. 👌 It sounds like you're staying on top of it. Good for you! You'll find that there are lots of little annoying things, that if not taken care of, turn into big expensive annoying things. Obviously, the drive-train, power-plant, brakes and suspension take precedent over the aesthetics - keep them operating properly and everything else becomes "fix 'em as you can"...
  20. Wow! Sounds like you got a real "cream puff"... 😲 If you've got oil "coming from the air oil separator" it's not "good news" - A) Even though the part is relatively inexpensive, the labor is very expensive - Figure $1k U.S. as a ball park figure. B) Not fixing it can/will be WAY more expensive, so - get it checked (manometer) asap and fixed if it's leaking or not within spec. C) "Real" tires - 🤣 he's funny...but IMO "real tires" start with either M or P not D... 😉 (regardless, since you already bought them, I hope they fix your problem).
  21. Lock the car to force it to go to "sleep" mode. If you don't you'll get more parasitic drain...
  22. "While not terminal for the car, it seems like a real pain to drop the engine, remove a cylinder head and send it out for welding." Well now, that depends on how long "for some time now" refers to. Is there any coolant in the oil sump? If so, there's a good chance that every time you start or drive the car, you're doing damage to other engine components. Yes, it's a real pain to drop the engine and remove the cylinder heads - but what's the alternative? Drive it as is? - Not a good idea. You'll also need to flush the entire cooling system, as you've now got a oil/coolant mixture in all the rubber hoses. The oil will cause the hoses to swell and become soft - not good for a pressurized system. If you flush them with detergent asap (to break down the oil) you may be able to save them. Good Luck
  23. ^^^ My thoughts exactly^^^ That screw you lost is probably in one of the drains (if it fell down under the battery area). get yourself a long magnet (neodymium - strong and lightweight) on a flexible shaft and get it out of there...
  24. That's interesting! I'm surprised this is possible, but perhaps I shouldn't be... I always take photo's when taking things apart...😉
  25. Just drain the oil and re-filter (fine mesh paint filter works great - go to your nearest paint seller and get a few) before putting back in your motor - No need to throw away perfectly good oil.😉
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