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dporto last won the day on July 4 2019

dporto had the most liked content!

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About dporto

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Fields

  • From
    Hampton Bays, NY
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 C4

Recent Profile Visitors

830 profile views
  1. Just turned 160,000 mi. (on the chassis that is...) New Motor (FSI 3.8 stage II build 4300 mi. ago).
  2. You are correct sir! You'll need to remove the heads - I'm pretty sure (but not positive) you'd need to drop the engine for that. Head cracks are somewhat common for the M96 - much more common than your oil cooler/heat exchanger. I didn't realize you were in Dubai until now... That could have a real effect on how to deal with this problem. When properly repaired, the chances of the head cracking again are extremely thin. Do some reading here : Hoffman Automotive Machine (706)769-3783 – Where's Your Head? NEWSITE.HAMHEADS.COM M96 cracked cylinder head repair ^^^ These guys are the tops in the USA - not sure who you can find over there. I think a pressure test could be useful to you if done properly... Better yet, see here : 986 996 Porsche Cylinderhead Cracks Explained – Hoffman Automotive Machine (706)769-3783 NEWSITE.HAMHEADS.COM Click here to see video of a 996 3.4 M96 head being pressure tested, revealing a microscopic crack that was not visible to the naked eye. This particular head was a prime example that a head can not be judged to be crack free without being pressure tested. I know where to look, but I…
  3. Have you had the head(s) diagnosed & repaired yet? If not, I think you're chasing your tail...Putting your cart before the horse etc... etc... etc... Just because you haven't gotten coolant in the oil YET, doesn't mean it's not going to happen. Every time you heat cycle the engine, the chances of that head crack opening up/getting worse increase. You have to fix the problem, not just treat the symptom - it's not going to get better by itself. Good luck
  4. 👌 It sounds like you're staying on top of it. Good for you! You'll find that there are lots of little annoying things, that if not taken care of, turn into big expensive annoying things. Obviously, the drive-train, power-plant, brakes and suspension take precedent over the aesthetics - keep them operating properly and everything else becomes "fix 'em as you can"...
  5. Wow! Sounds like you got a real "cream puff"... 😲 If you've got oil "coming from the air oil separator" it's not "good news" - A) Even though the part is relatively inexpensive, the labor is very expensive - Figure $1k U.S. as a ball park figure. B) Not fixing it can/will be WAY more expensive, so - get it checked (manometer) asap and fixed if it's leaking or not within spec. C) "Real" tires - 🤣 he's funny...but IMO "real tires" start with either M or P not D... 😉 (regardless, since you already bought them, I hope they fix your problem).
  6. Lock the car to force it to go to "sleep" mode. If you don't you'll get more parasitic drain...
  7. "While not terminal for the car, it seems like a real pain to drop the engine, remove a cylinder head and send it out for welding." Well now, that depends on how long "for some time now" refers to. Is there any coolant in the oil sump? If so, there's a good chance that every time you start or drive the car, you're doing damage to other engine components. Yes, it's a real pain to drop the engine and remove the cylinder heads - but what's the alternative? Drive it as is? - Not a good idea. You'll also need to flush the entire cooling system, as you've now got a oil/coolant mixture in all the rubber hoses. The oil will cause the hoses to swell and become soft - not good for a pressurized system. If you flush them with detergent asap (to break down the oil) you may be able to save them. Good Luck
  8. ^^^ My thoughts exactly^^^ That screw you lost is probably in one of the drains (if it fell down under the battery area). get yourself a long magnet (neodymium - strong and lightweight) on a flexible shaft and get it out of there...
  9. That's interesting! I'm surprised this is possible, but perhaps I shouldn't be... I always take photo's when taking things apart...😉
  10. Just drain the oil and re-filter (fine mesh paint filter works great - go to your nearest paint seller and get a few) before putting back in your motor - No need to throw away perfectly good oil.😉
  11. Hmmm... Manufacturers are not responsible for maintaining your car - period. These are maintenance issues regardless of whether you claim "the car has been maintained PERFECTLY" (ooo, why does that sound familiar?). Unless you're able to show that a majority of 2xxx Porsche C4S are having the same/similar corrosion problems (i.e. it's a manufacturers defect or a materials defect) there will be no re-call. In fact, there are probably fewer recalls than there should be, even of "real" issues. While the things you show are certainly annoying (and in the case of the strut - potentially dangerous) I think your chances of getting Porsche to help you out are slim to none. No go replace those struts and enjoy driving your car! 👍
  12. I believe the idle spec. is 750 - 780 rpm after initial high idle period (around 1100 rpm). If it's idling below that and roughly, I'd look for an air/vacuum leak. For your misfires you should check/replace (with emphasis on replace) your injectors. They're notorious for leaking - which can lead to serious bore scoring problems. Do not have them "re-built" as they will fail again in short order (there's no such thing as a true rebuild - they just clean them and change the O rings). Good luck
  13. I can't comment on the Koni's, as I have a C4 and they don't make a package for it. I've got Bilstein B8's with H&R sport springs. So much better than stock in both looks and handling! The ride is slightly harsher than stock (stiffer less roll also) but nod "bad" IMO. Obviously, my idea of good or bad may differ sharply from yours. In my case, my stock suspension was (as I learned after installing new components) pretty much shot. Even though the car still handled "great" (IMO at the time), it had quite a few rattles, squeaks and clunks. Though it was a little stiffer after the change, all the other stuff was gone (there are other components that cause noises as well - notably lower control arms, both coffins and wishbones) and even though it's "stiff" it soaks up bumps better than the worn out stock shocks/struts. Good Luck
  14. 4.5 - 5 bar when cold is not unusual. The engine doesn't have to be at "operating temperature" to drain the coolant/soap suds... It sounds like you're conflating several different issues and chasing your tail in circles. A good rule of thumb when troubleshooting is to deal with one issue at a time, until it's 1) identified, and 2) resolved. Don't move onto the next issue or replace parts that aren't identified as bad/broken as you'll just confuse yourself more, and possibly be throwing money away...
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