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dporto last won the day on September 14

dporto had the most liked content!

About dporto

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  • From
    Hampton Bays, NY
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 C4

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Community Answers

  1. I’d also be looking at the shifter housing/cable ends (at the shifter). The stock cable ends are plastic m, so anything can happen with them. The part of this problem that I find confusing is that it seems to be intermittent? I’d be checking all the plastic parts in and around the shifter housing. As for the “play” feeling, try it with the shift knob off (just the steel stalk)... play still there? Good luck
  2. I’ve always found it to be a good resource for technical info, while not having all the noise associated with Rennlist... I just donated, so hopefully we’ll reach the $ goal...
  3. I can only say DONT get a Sharkskin cover. Terrible fit (way too big drags on the ground etc) and I’m pretty sure it caused some spots in my paint... ‘nuff said...
  4. "101 Projects" is a nice resource for casual/weekend type jobs... Don't kid yourself that it will help with an engine rebuild - it would be a huge and very expensive mistake. I wouldn't even trust it for something as (relatively) simple as an IMS retro fit... The Bentley manual is in a whole different league than 101 projects, but still not comprehensive for an engine re-build. The suggestion(s) above from JFP and others are good. Jake Raby/FSI are well established experts on the M96 platform and have "basically written the book" on development/repairing/upgrading the M96/97 platform
  5. +1 ^^^ Still haven't solved it. In the interim I've realized one more thing - The left turn signal also doesn't work if the fog lights are on (right signal works fine). So, it seems that for some reason either the Hi beams and/or the fog lights are shorting/canceling the left turn signal, and the left high beam is dimmer than the right... I just don't know where to go with this. The light switch is new/good as I changed it out about a year or two ago (I used to have a problem with the right low-beam/hid not lighting intermittently - the new switch fixed it (I also had the current problem with the old switch so that wasn't it). Not sure about the ignition switch - I suppose it could be the problem but it's never acted up otherwise (i.e. turning too far, not cranking, etc...) so I'm a little hesitant to start messing with it.
  6. Nope, no luck - strange as I haven’t gotten the left turn signal to blink at all with the hi beams on (last week I actually got a few blinks out of it...)
  7. Hey Joe, yeah probably a good idea. I just noticed something else also (just got back from a drive)when I pulled up my driveway I sat and messed around with it for a few minutes. A couple times I got the turn signal to flash once or twice before it stopped. This leads me to believe it's a contact - maybe in the stalk itself? I've read of people having problems with these - and all the wiring and sockets seem to be good. I'll check it some more tomorrow morning when it's light out (hopefully not raining).
  8. Had a chance to look a little further tonight. I opened up the back of the housing - all the wiring looks good (no cracked insulation or anything like that). I also checked and cleaned the connectors with De-oxit. No help, but I also noticed that occasionally if I use my left turn signal with the hi beams turned on both headlights cycle up and down in time with the flasher... if I turn the hi beams off and then turn them back on and hit the directional again, it just doesn't work - the headlights won't cycle up and down... rather bizarre behavior, but it definitely points to some interaction with the turn signal and the high beams... a relay perhaps?
  9. This problem has plagued me for quite some time, though I'm just getting around to trying to fix it now. My low beams work fine, and when I switch to high beams the sheilds do the right thing. The problem is that the drivers side halogen (high beam) bulb actually dims. Also, with the high beams switched on, my left turn signal no longer works. Has anyone else experienced this same scenario? Seems almost like there's a crossed connection somewhere that's causing too much resistance - just not sure how to go about trouble shooting it...
  10. A little background to start. I've never had a problem with this before and I've had 2 other alignments. I recently did some more suspension work (adjustable lower control/coffin arms in order to get my negative camber within spec) so brought it in again for an alignment. They had a bit of difficulty getting everything within spec as several parameters are interactive. In any case they got it close, but the steering wheel wasn't centered. Instead of adjusting the tie rod ends, I think they just popped the steering wheel off and moved it a few splines. Would this mess up the steering angle sensor so it would have to be re-calibrated? Also, I have Durametric which has a re-calibration command, but I haven't been able to get it to work yet. I reached out to Durametric and they swear the function works, so either I'm not doing it correctly or my steering angle sensor is bad...
  11. Not a small project and not a very common problem with these engines...
  12. A new Porsche branded axle is between $500 - $750. Servicing the CV is a smelly/messy job but also pretty simple. The joint itself just pulls apart, then just clean up all the old grease. You'll have to pull the inner race (star thing) off the axle shaft to get the new boot(s) on (you may as well do both while you're there). Here's a good video to help you get the inner joint back together... Good luck
  13. I wouldn't ever describe the noise made by timing chains as a "knock"... more like a "rattle", which is quite normal as the hydraulic chain tensioners get old and leak down over time. A "knock" is all together different and will be timed with the engine turning. Generally speaking these "knocks" are caused by the connecting rods on the crankshaft or the pistons ("piston slap") as they rock in the cylinder at the beginning of the up/out stroke... While these sounds certainly aren't the same as each other, they would be more consistent with a "knocking" sound as opposed to a "chain rattle"... Semantics I know, but it really does make a difference.
  14. Use some degreaser to clean up that area good before you start to run/drive it - otherwise it'll make it difficult to see a weep/leak (unless the oil is dripping out).
  15. ^^^ But only if the install was registered by the installer ^^^
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