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H&R Sway Bar Install Help


pc18622

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Howdy!

I am planning on installing a set of H&R sway bars on my 996 TT this weekend and have a couple of questions:

1) Does anyone have a diagram or specific instructions on removing the front cross member to access the front sway bar or is it self explanatory?

2) Once I jack up the front end of the car using the front jacking points, where do I put the jack stands?

3) What are the torque specs for the bolts after I swap the bars out?

I have H&R coilovers lowered a little below GT2 height. I am planning on using the center holes to relieve stress on the factory drop links (broke one set already) as well as improve cornering.

If anyone has any words of caution/wisdom after having done this install, I would love to hear!

Thanks all!

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  • 1 month later...

Did you figure it out? I bought a set of H&R springs for my 99 996 C4 Aero and front and rear adjustable H&R sway bars. I got the front springs in over the weekend - major pain in the @ss! It was a lot easier on my buddy's 996 C2 Aero. I'm having problems installing the front H&R sway bar now.

First time, I installed it with the bars over the drive shafts (whoops)! Second time, I installed it with the bars under the A arms (whoops again)! Then I realized the the bars go between the drive shaft and A arms. Problem is, I can't find any way to squeeze the bar up and through on both sides due to the shape of the bar. The stock bar is shaped differently - you can drop it out and put it back in without removing anything else.

I tried removing the 16mm bolt that holds in the A arm. No go - backed it out practically the entire length, but couldn't get it out. I actually ran out of space for the wrench. Can't hit it from behind with a socket either. Of course H&R provides no installation instructions with their parts. When I called them, they said they don't provide installation advice and recommended I take it to Porsche. I told them that this is ridiculous, since the Porsche OEM part is shaped differently than their aftermarket part, and that the install would thus be different. Go figure? Please let me know if you solved the install mystery - I'm stuck. BTW, to answer your question on raising the car see below:

Raising your car on jack stands:

I can tell you that the 996 is a difficult car to put on jack stands. This is due to the fact that the jack points are tiny and there's not a lot of room to place your jack without damaging the body. The way I did it (safely) was by using two floor jacks: a 2 ton low-profile jack, and a 2 1/4 ton regular floor jacks - both purchased from Sears.

1. Start at the rear driver point and jack it up high enough to get a jack stand under the front driver point (go two notches on the jack stands).

2. Leaving the first jack in place, insert the second jack under the rear passenger-side jack point. Carefully raise the car high enough to place the second jack stand under the passenger front jack point.

3. Double check the jack stands as you slowly lower the rear driver-side jack. At this point, the front is up on jack stands and the rear passenger-side is supporting the car.

4. Now place your jack carefully under the rear cross member. Slowly raise it, making sure it rests under the cross member without touching anything else as you raise it. Raise the jack slowly just high enough to place your third jack stand under the rear driver jack point.

5. Double check the jack stands as you slowly lower the passenger-side rear jack. Try to fit the last jack stand under the jack point. You may need to raise the cross member a little more to squeeze it under. Then slowly lower the car carefully - rechecking all jack stands.

6. If you have an extra set of jack stands, for added safety you can place them underneath either side of the rear cross member.

This may not be the quickest method, but then again, this is not the kind of car you want to drop. I picked up some 3-ton jack stands at Sears. They're strong enough to support my cars, as well as the SUV. I'm documenting the whole install with tons of pics and plan to post a HOW TO after I finish..

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Take MyFast's advice on jacking.........or search rennlist or sixspeed.......many threads........personally I take the whole rear up using the engine.......anyway, the body is so stiff you can take the back left up high enough to get jack stand under front right.

Personally I would not use OE DLs.

You want em easily adjustable in the new sways.......you want adjustable DLs (to accomodate corner balancing, etc)........TRG or SCarGo or others have good adjustable DLs.

On the comment about using ..."center holes to relieve stress on the factory drop links"....... I'm probably misunderstanding you there.......but you do not want the DLs carrying any load when she's sitting (again, why you adjust DLs).......and obviously part of the reason for going to 'adjustable' anti-sway bars is so that you can select the setting (1,2,or 3) both in the front & in the back, that suits your driving requirements (not that takes stress off a DL).

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