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Rear Trunk Lid Won't Open


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I am having a problem where the rear trunk lid won't open.

I had opened the trunk just a minute earlier and when I tried

to open it again, it just wouldn't pop open. I can hear the

locking mechanism pull back and forth, but it won't open. I

tried to push down and even tried prying alittle whith a screw

driver to get it open, but no luck. All fuses are OK, and I

wouldn't think it was the fuse as I can hear the locking

mechanism try to open. I have a 2001 S. All other car

functions are working fine, front trunk, convertible top,

windows, etc. What do you think, any suggestions?

If you need to get into the trunk to get to the locking

mechanism, how would you do that? Is it even possible

or would something like removing a fender be necessary?

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Yes, It is the same with the key switch and the door sill switch.

I wasn't aware that there was a cable for the rear trunk like they

have for the front. I will check in my manuals to see if I can find

where it is located. Can you direct me to where it is located?

(Sorry for posting in the 987 board, I didn't see that you seperated them).

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OK, So I see it on your photo. The question is how do I get to it?

What exactly do I have to take apart to get to it? I took a look under

the car and I see the heat shield that is above the muffler that blocks

you from getting to it. Can you get to it from the wheel well? The only

thing I have left is to try and get to the emergency cable and give it

a pull. Until I get the trunk open I won't be able to tell what the problem

is.

You want to stop by and assist in seeing if I can get to the cable? Maybe

this weekend? I live at San Tomas and El Camino now. 408-244-1589. Let

me know. By the way, The manual doesn't give any help here that I can

find.

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OK, I fixed the problem. The Bowden cable had slipped out

of the conncetion at the motor/actuator. Here are the instructions

to get to the Bowden emergency cable.....

1: Jack the driver's rear tire up and remove. Take care not to

chip the brake caliper paint (use the tire removal bar).

2: Remove the rear part of the wheel well. Note; There are

3 hidden bolts you need to remove in order to get the part

of the wheel well out. They are hidden under the bumper

skin. Pull the bumper back and you can get to them. They

are 10mm nuts. Take care not to pull the bumper skin back

too much (it is pretty flexible).

3: There are 2 screws under the bumper skin you need to remove.

They are Torx head (T25).

4: Remove piece of wheel well and look back towards the inside of

the bumper skin and you will see the pull cable.

Give it a pull and the trunk should open.

Now that the trunk is open you can investigate further as to what

the problem is. Mine was the cable had slipped out of the connector.

I had to take apart the mounting hardware for the spolier hardware

as the motor/actuator for the latch is under this. There are a couple of

screws that are no easy to get to or put back in. The nuts are 8mm

and the screws are Torx heads (T25). I took out the actuator and reseated

the cable. I put the actuator and mounting hardware back together and

tested it to make sure it was working. All looks OK.

You will also need to pull the carpet out of the trunk to make it easier

to do the work without trying to hold it back.

Also, I left the cable hanging out between the heat shield and the bottom

of the insdie of the bumper skin. It is still hidden, but I can get to it if this

happens again (Rear Trunk Bowden Emergency Cable Mod!).

Oh, Jeff, I still have nightmares from jumping up and down on your front

hood even if it was wrecked. One is just not supposed to do that to a Porsche.

Anyway, 1st problem I had with the 2001S and it wasn't due to broken parts.

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  • Moderators
I left the cable hanging out between the heat shield and the bottom

of the insdie of the bumper skin. It is still hidden, but I can get to it if this

happens again (Rear Trunk Bowden Emergency Cable Mod!).

So, where are you parking your Boxster these days....

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