Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Replace e-accelerator pedal


Recommended Posts

Somehow, I've broken my accelerator pedal. I looked in my Bentley book for instructions on replacing it, but I haven't had any luck finding instructions. Does anyone know how to replace the pedal? I have it arriving Monday and would like to be driving my Boxster again Monday afternoon.

-Michael

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In preparation for the new pedal arriving tomorrow, I started to take the old one out. I got it off the floorboard, but it's not so easy to get it off the next point. The cable coming out the top goes into another unit. I'm afraid to twist too hard, but that connection doesn't seem to be one I can easily remove. It's of course a bit difficult to do while hanging upside-down, feet above the roll bar and head down by the pedals.

The pedal has a cable coming from the top. That cable goes into another cable at the top of the footwell. That connection appears to be able to be removed. That's the one I'm afraid to twist too hard. Can I use more force on this with the pliers? It started to torque the whole connection when I was trying earlier.

-Michael

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It wasn't difficult, now that I've done it. Figuring it out was a pain.

Basically, to start, follow the directions in the post above to remove the accelerator pedal from the floor. Then, you need to remove the cable from the cam. I was about ready to just snip the cable, but I didn't have a pair of wire snips strong and sharp enough.

I realized I can simply remove the cam. A 10mm socket will do nicely here, but you'll probably need to have it on a handheld instead of a power drill. It's a pretty tight space. There's a 10mm nut and a washer. Once this is off, jiggle the cam to get it to come off the spindle.

Once this is off, the cable is easy enough to remove. The next part was a bear. I had to take a small flat head screwdriver and push it up against the "wing" of the plastic piece which comes through the metal bracket. Forget trying to remove the bracket. You don't have the time. :D

Once I got one wing through the bracket, I was able to twist and turn the piece to come through the square hole. This was the most violent part of the process, and much inappropriate language was uttered. There may be an easier way to do this. If someone else figures it out, please post it.

Putting the new piece in was not all that bad. I put the cable through the bracket's square hole. Align the "nubbin" on the plastic piece to the driver's side door. This will save you about 5 minutes of wondering why the stupid thing won't go through the hole, and a lot of thinking about round peg square hole jokes. You should feel a nice secure snap into place.

Now, connect the cable to the cam. Guide the cable through the groove of the cam and rotate the cam until the cable is taut. Then, put the washer and nut back on. You can probably slip the cam around a little tighter before you tighten the nut.

Now, put the pedal into the "holder" in the firewall. This is basically just the opposite of taking it out.

Check your pedal travel while watching the cam. It should move fully and freely. Start the car, make sure it idles as it was, and then try giving it some gas. Try the pedal a few times to make sure it feels right.

Put your tools away, and give the old pedal a nice heave-ho. If you can clear 33 meters, you did better than I did. My arm was sore from being contorted in strange positions while doing this stuff above, so I think I could get more distance if I waited a few hours. There was also a headwind. And it was uphill. :rolleyes:

Let me know if I missed anything. I think I got it all. I don't have pictures because I don't have a camera that small other than my mobile phone's camera, but it's ability to pick up anything in that dark a space (even with a flashlight) is miserable. The shots I do have look like black blurs.

-Michael

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.