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Everything posted by savowood

  1. I had the same problem and had to replace my lock mechanism. I think the part you're looking for is one of these: 8N1 837 015 C door lock /L 3B1 837 016 P door lock /R
  2. Anyone who has heard my Boxster will tell you it sounds fantastic. The secret is more than just the muffler. You're on the right path with the Borla, but you'll need to get a pair of 100 cell cats and a nice set of headers. Additionally, I have changed the intake completely to a straight BMC canister. The growl may not be quite as low as the 996, but it will be very impressive.
  3. I'm using Toyo R1R tires for street driving which aren't N rated, but are fantastic tires. I've even used them on the track when my Hoosiers were spent or it was too wet for them. I wouldn't worry about the N rating too much.
  4. If you're pushing the car at all, you'll completely fry the Redstuff. Yellowstuff is a bit better, but if you're really flying at 100%, you'll end up cooking them as well. Yellowstuff is better than Redstuff, but if you're not at least in an advanced group, you probably won't notice. The brake ducts are an important upgrade to keep things cool. The extra airflow seems to make a difference. Excellent choice to put them on there. Cross-drilled rotors are pointless nowadays. In the days of pads that released gasses, it was a good idea. Now it just reduces the braking surface area and th
  5. Wow...a lot of vitriol for Roock. He did a great job on my car and also on my buddy's 996. I didn't have any issues with him at all. Everything was as promised.
  6. A buddy of mine had Roock in Atlanta do a swap in his 99 from a 3.4 to a 3.6. The only real hard part apparently is getting the Variocam+ to work properly. Once you get it going, it's a screamer. Call Roock and let him know I sent you. -Michael
  7. Personally I run 245 up front and 275 in the rear on 17s. Those are Hoosiers so it's a little bit different story. My regular street tires are 235/255 on 17s. I like the better grip up front and have run my Boxster that way since back when it was stock. -Michael
  8. Keep the pre-2000 5 speed. Your acceleration is much better with that setup. Mine with the 2000 5 speed is frustrating in 3rd gear. Your final drive ratio is better for acceleration. -Michael
  9. This might be too simple, but are you pulling up the hand brake? Even just one or two clicks is usually enough. You may also have a bad switch on the brake. I'm pretty sure there's an article on this site about checking and replacing the switch. -Michael
  10. Take a look at the glass. Not the plastic part, but the glass behind that up close to the bulb. If it's brown, then you found your problem. My guess is it's caused by putting Silver Star bulbs in there instead of the standard ones. I had it happen on two cars. Now I use only standard bulbs. -Michael
  11. Check the method used to get the octane rating. Different methods produce different numbers, all close, but one country's 87 is another country's 91. -Michael
  12. The picture of that Kokeln car looks exactly how I did mine. You'll need some tubing, hose clamps, and patience. It's a tight space to work in, but it fits. -Michael
  13. I had the same issue and ended up buying a set of used ones. I surmise that my using the higher intensity SilverStar bulbs is what did it. Back to the regular bulbs for me. -Michael
  14. Is it black smoke or white smoke? White would possibly indicate an AOS. Black, I'm not sure. -Michael
  15. I'm 99% sure they're Dansk, but I'd have to ask Roock. I had Roock do my conversion and he got them from a source in Los Angeles. -Michael
  16. Go for the SPEC 3 clutch. It's cheaper than the 2+ and can better handle the power. It's also lighter on the left leg than the Sachs sport or even standard clutch. I went with headers, cats, and a Borla exhaust. If you want to have a conversation with anyone while driving, skip the Borla. If you want the coolest sounding car within 1000 miles, put it on. The Borla is for the S and will take some clever work to secure it, but it's not hard. It's supposed to connect to the transmission with I think 4 bolts. I had a bunch of nuts and a single bolt to connect it there. It works fine. Yo
  17. No highs, no lows, must be Bose. Bose is, to be generous to them, astonishingly terrible. I am amazed Porsche partnered with them. (The word "Böse" in German means "evil".) The later comments on how mushy the subwoofer is are exactly on track from what I've heard. The company is all about marketing. They talk you into thinking they sound great. In reality, they're not at all. All that being said, in a car is probably the worst listening environment you could have. This is also why it's great. When I'm working on a mixdown from a tracking session and think I'm ready to send it off
  18. Hi all I'm looking for a motorsport AOS for my Boxster with a Carrera motor. I've recently put Hoosiers on it for the track, and that pretty well overdoes what the basic AOS can handle. I know I can find one at Suncoast or Sunset, but I was hoping to find someone who bought one and although good intentions were to install it, it isn't installed. Even a mildly used one would be fine. I'm just looking to save some dough on this costly part. -Michael
  19. I've been using Harry's Lap Timer for about a year now and like it. A few caveats... 1. The accuracy is heavily dependent upon your GPS signal strength. 2. The data export is messed up, but fixable. It's supposed to be in a comma-delimited form. It's not quite right, but easy to fix. 3. You must run through the calibration phase every time you use it. It doesn't take long, but it can get annoying. However, since you probably moved the unit between sessions, you'll need to do it. Recently, Harald updated the iPhone version to be the "professional" version. The GPS rate jumped f
  20. For a definitive answer, check with Roock in Atlanta. They did my 3.4 swap and we were talking about the other options. The price of the GT3 motor was more than I was willing to spend, but I think they could tell you if it's possible. -Michael
  21. ABS stands for "Anti Blockier System". Basically, your search is giving you a bad translation. The part is a sensor which measures the wheel speed to make sure you aren't locking up your wheels. -Michael
  22. Can you post your alignment specs? Also, the tire sizes. Was the car ever wrecked? -Michael
  23. Spend the extra $3500 and get the whole motor. Either way, you're going to need headers by my recollection. I think the problem is space. The 996 motor is wider or something like that, so you need different headers. If you want the authoritative answer, tholyoak is the man. He's done several swaps and can tell you for sure whether the headers will work or not. I'd recommend doing the intake, headers, cats, and muffler. It's a bigger motor that wants to eat more. If it eats more, it's going to poop more. The restrictiveness of the stock Boxster system could cause issues. -Michael
  24. Where did you find the D2 for under $1000? On their web site they list for $1500. -Michael
  25. Sorry for the delay...a lot of travel for work lately. I'd call them directly. They really need to talk to you to determine the best clutch for your use. The clutch I have (I think it's a 2+ but it might be a 3) is VERY easy to drive on the street. It's a lot lighter than the stock clutch, and it's stronger. -Michael
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