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The "S" is approx. the same (NOT for TURBO), just a little more lack on room, make a drawing of the belt routing before replacing, it will make it easier to find out in case of doubt.

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The "S" is approx. the same (NOT for TURBO), just a little more lack on room, make a drawing of the belt routing before replacing, it will make it easier to find out in case of doubt.

Thanks RMF, but how is the belt removed compared to a 996?

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The "S" is approx. the same (NOT for TURBO), just a little more lack on room, make a drawing of the belt routing before replacing, it will make it easier to find out in case of doubt.

Thanks RMF, but how is the belt removed compared to a 996?

RMF, do you have a diagram? I do not know which one is the tensioner. DO happen to know if the bolt on the tensioner is a 24mm like on the 996? Thanks

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While you have the belt off inspect all of the pulleys including the water pump for movement/roughness.

Wvicary, what type of movement should i look for? How much movement should there to begin with? Do you know if there are any pics of drive belt replacement?

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There will always be slight radial movement in all the idlers/tensioner pulley. Try and put a load on them while turning at the same time to feel any roughness. The water pump should have no play in the brng assembly and should be free of noise. Sorry I have no diagram at hand but it is very straight foreword if you take a close look at the belt system.

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There will always be slight radial movement in all the idlers/tensioner pulley. Try and put a load on them while turning at the same time to feel any roughness. The water pump should have no play in the brng assembly and should be free of noise. Sorry I have no diagram at hand but it is very straight foreword if you take a close look at the belt system.

Which one is the tensioner to loosen the belt?

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An open key is an ordinary key, looks like a wrench >> :wrench: fits on the tensioner hexagonal body, which is the pivot point, to slacken the tensioner (# 17 on "wvicary" diagram) It is not necessary to disconnect the coolwater tube to replace the belt.

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An open key is an ordinary key, looks like a wrench >> :wrench: fits on the tensioner hexagonal body, which is the pivot point, to slacken the tensioner (# 17 on "wvicary" diagram) It is not necessary to disconnect the coolwater tube to replace the belt.

An "open end box wrench" in our terminology. Thanks.

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An open key is an ordinary key, looks like a wrench >> :wrench: fits on the tensioner hexagonal body, which is the pivot point, to slacken the tensioner (# 17 on "wvicary" diagram) It is not necessary to disconnect the coolwater tube to replace the belt.

RMF, is #17 apart of 19? do you remove the black cap to find the hex bolt? I still finding it difficult as to which tensioner is the correct one and how to tackle it. Thanks

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You want to use a 30mm open end wrench on the hex portion of item #17 of the parts diagram.

Ptec, thanks! but when you mean top portion, is there also another pully that needs to be loosen? or it just item 17 with the 30mm socket? Thanks Again.

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You want to use a 30mm open end wrench on the hex portion of item #17 of the parts diagram.

Ptec, thanks! but when you mean top portion, is there also another pully that needs to be loosen? or it just item 17 with the 30mm socket? Thanks Again.

Can the coolant hoses to the left and right of the radiator be removed to make more room to change the drive belt? I want to make sure coolant does not come pouring out.

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