Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

questions about cooling system and repair...


Recommended Posts

We we did the PIA failed tubes under the intake manifold...I have to say this job was far more difficult then I imaged. For those doing it in 5-6 hours...good job. We had about 12 hours into but that had mostly to do with every single plastic tube breaking inside the engine cavity...but I digress...

Filled up system and took for test drive. Saw a bit antifreeze under the drive axle on both driver and pass side...taste test approved. Additionally, the cap had pressure the first few times I slowly opened it but doesn't seem to be holding much pressure now when opened (again slowly) hot. As you know with such a fix you smell antifreeze from the old leak for quite some time and we cannot see our fix area to see if all new seals are good. Wish I could have pressure tested then (didn't have parts). After more test drives I have not seen a leak under the car (like before) but again the pressure on the cap is low or non-existent.

Here are my questions:

1. is there another failure area such as the overflow tank that could be blame for any leaking and/or pressure concerns. (this wouldn't explain the puddle we say on the driver side).

2. Are the caps prone to failure and thus not a good seal?

3. Are Vw/Audi pressure testers going to work to test the Porsche system. It appears they have the same inner valve on the cap but the treads are noticeably different then my 96 Passat.

Water level dropped slightly after test drives (from max to min) but this may be expected due to air pockets filling up during high rpm and temp driving. The system took almost 2 gallons of 50/50 mix post fix and the pipe (small ones not large) did have a small crack as well as fluid in the manifold area...so there was a concern there.

I think my mechanic buddy thinks I'm being paranoid and i should just drive it home but I wanted it to sit for the night to see if any fluid leaked underneath and try to find a affordable pressure tester. It's not my $50K toy, so I'm understandably cautious.

Any useful comments would be appreciated for any other leak areas to consider or if the antifreeze I found on the ground (again new) was most likely hidding from the previous leak and simply dumped when the vehicle finally moved and/or warmed.

Edited by rsfeller
Link to comment
Share on other sites

To answer your questions....

Yes the catchment tank has been known to fail, that is, not hold pressure and leak....

The tank cap has an o ring seal that can get cut and allow pressure and coolant out the overflow hose...The cap is not expensive do if there is any doubt change it.

I'm not sure about the VW or Audi testers, but I used an Airlift 550000 which evacuates the system and thus uses the vacuum to fill the system. The idea is when you draw the vacuum it should hold the required setting, that is no leaks. This tester is fitted to the catchment tank cap so essentially you are testing the complete system for leaks....

Hope this is of some help...

Rgds,

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.