Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Coolant reservoir bleeder valve clogged?


Recommended Posts

I noticed that when my engine has been warmed up, the bleeder valve on the coolant reservoir pushes outward and does not seem to relieve pressure. The metal latch is floating above the point where you would normally bring it up to "lock" it in place to bleed air out after maintenance. I carefully cracked open the reservoir coolant cap which let lots of air out and the bleeder valve immediately moved back down. The tank was replaced in 2003 so it is not the original.

Questions:

1. Isn't the bleeder valve supposed to automatically allow air out even when not locked in the up position?

2. If so, any idea where the bleed point is to see if I can unclog it?

I realize I have the option of replacing the bleeder valve only for $80 for a new valve. Looking at it though, it would be almost the same amount of work to replace the valve as it would be the whole tank. Clearly, the tank is holding pressure and not leaking. I attached a closeup of Boxster valve just for illustrative purposes.

post-54679-0-83917200-1314826577_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry I didn't clarify in the original post. The problem is that the plunger is pushing significantly beyond where the metal latch would hold it "open" and not letting anything out.

For example, if the metal latch normally pulls the plunger up by 1/4", the problem I am seeing is that the plunger by itself is pushing out 1/2" and still not relieving pressure. If I crack open the radiator cap, the pressure drops and the plunger goes back down to the normal down position.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.