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xmac

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xmac last won the day on November 29 2018

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About xmac

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  • Present cars
    1999 C4 XAA
    2001 BMW X5 4.4i Sport
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  1. I had similar symptoms with a light but noticeable oil slick floating and yellow sludge in the coolant reservoir and then emulsion in the oil filler hose and cap. I replaced my air/oil separator (AOS) and after that, no emulsion and no oil slick anymore - and I check it regularly. Coolant runs through the head of the oil separator. Another location where coolant and oil run in close proximity is the heat exchanger adjacent to the starter. Some coolant/oil heat exchangers (all-metal) have been reported to fail too but less of a risk. I did not cut my AOS open to prove there was seepage, but I probably should have.
  2. Wow, O2 sensors - I hadn't even thought of that angle for possible issues. Thanks for passing that along Loren. Are the bung sizes are the same? I may roll the dice on the set of cats considering the price.
  3. Did several searches and could not find the answer if both the headers and cats can be swapped going from 3.6l to a 3.4l. For thread completeness, there several threads noting that you can put 3.6 mufflers on a 3.4, connecting to 3.4l cats. I use bypass pipes so mufflers are not part of my equation. My goal is to buy a used second set of catalytic converters to be modified with new 200 cell guts, but keep the stock parts just in case I want to revert back to fully stock in the future or have trouble at visual inspection. There seem to be more 2002+ exhaust parts available and came across a 2003 set but I have a '99. 1. Do 3.6l cats bolt onto 3.4 headers without any mods required (no need for 3.6l headers)? 2. If I replace both the headers and cats from a 3.6l onto my 3.4l, will they bolt right on and all brackets fit without any mods? 3. If I have to do a swap back to the original 3.4l cats with 3.6l headers on, would they fit on the headers, or would I have to put the original 3.4l headers back on to get them to fit? For reference, I pulled part numbers for both cats and headers: Catalytic Converters: 3.4l [M96.01/.02/.04] ('98-'99 / -'99 -> '00 -> '01-) 3.4l LEFT 996-113-021-53 / 996-113-021-56 -> 996-113-031-01 -> 996-113-031-02 3.4l RIGHT 996-113-022-53 / 996-113-022-56 -> 996-113-032-01 -> 996-113-032-02 3.6l [M96.03] (2002-2005) 3.6l LEFT 996-113-031-03 3.6l RIGHT 996-113-032-03 Exhaust Manifold/Headers: 3.4l [M96.01/.02/.04] ('98-'01) 3.4l LEFT (1998-2001) 3.4l RIGHT (1998-2001) 996-111-101-52 996-111-102-52 3.6l [M96.03] (2002-2005) 3.6l LEFT 3.6l RIGHT 996-111-101-53 996-111-102-53 X51 3.6l LEFT 3.6l RIGHT 996-111-101-40 996-111-102-40 edit: Simplified part # section and added color
  4. 1. Can you confirm the part number used is a 996.107.023.55? 2. Copied from the Pelican AOS Tech Article: "When the air-oil separator fails, the intake manifold vacuum will draw into the crankcase and the levels will reach 9-12 inches or more." 3. I would replace it with another new one since it is not worth saving the $150 for the problems it will create. At a minimum, I would take the new one out it out to test the non-coolant ports with a mityvac.
  5. 996 cable/wire sheathing seems to be tasty to critters. I had something eat through my knock sensor cable, but nothing a precision soldering iron can't fix. If you don't have the pinout, let me know and I can snap some pics for you. The connectors are brittle so be careful when taking them apart. Probably obvious, but also make sure you plug in black to black plug and gray to gray plug when putting them back together.
  6. I'm running a 295/30/18's on the 10" ET65 Sport Design wheels. They fill out the wheel nicely, no rubbing on a 99 C4. 295's are generally spec'ed for 10"-11" widths.
  7. While doing some other work, I noticed belt rub on a coolant line just above the lower left idler pulley. I have a '99 so I have the special TIS bracket/guide to help with belt slip but that goes in a different location. Anyone else seen this? All pulleys are in great shape with no slop. The belt is only about 1 year old made by ContiTech. Picture of the rubbing and one with the pulley removed.
  8. Had this happen to me. I used some needle-nose pliers and plastic o-ring pick to grab it then pull it up and over the lip. Take your time so you don't rip it.
  9. During some maintenance, I broke the "bonded rubber buffer" bolt that has threaded portions on each side of a round rubber cylinder and holds the bottom left of the throttle body. I purchased the replacement which had been superseded from 93011057901 to 99970326500. Unfortunately the new part is much longer and won't fit in the spot. Do I need to replaced the small metal bracket to match?? Here is a picture of the part I broke (rubber ripped in half) and here is what arrived
  10. In troubleshooting a rich at idle, lean at speed issue, I replaced my MAF with a yellow boxed one. As far as I know the one replaced is the original. Since there are so many knock-offs, I used a reputable vendor and double-checked the authenticity. Essentially, you download the TecIdentify app on your smartphone and scan the 2D barcode. After scanning you get a green verification or red problem screen. Look for the seal on the box with codes and Bosch Hologram: Download, the tecIdentify app Find the 2D barcode on the other side of the seal and scan it: Look for a green square in your verification page of the app: You will notice the code submitted matches includes the 3 groups of codes printed on the seal (3YBJP4 K31BTN C1WCGD) and the last group of characters is duplicated in the hologram. Hope this helps folks make sure they are not buying junk parts.
  11. Ignore prior post but here is a reference picture:
  12. I would try to force the failure to help narrow it down. Buy a box of 7.5A fuses and try to force it to blow by replacing it, then one-by-one immediately adjust mirrors, seats, then the top. All of them have motors that could have a problem.
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