Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

MOST Bose Audio Replacement


Recommended Posts

I know this subject has been covered extensively but I have not found answers to these specific questions.

I have a 2003 S with the Bose system, CDR-23 and MOST connected CD changer and amp:

986_cc.jpg

I want to install a 2-DIN head unit, use its built in amplification for the dash and door speakers (initially retaining the Bose speakers), remove the CD changer and Bose amp and add a separate amp to drive the Bose sub/rear drivers.

Alternatively, a 5 channel amp and not use the HU power at all.

1) What do I need to move the AC controls to where the CD storage is located?

2) Is there a 2-DIN fascia kit that allows me to retain the cupholder above the HU?

3) Is there a harness adapter available that connects to the speaker wire plug that currently plugs into the Bose amp, so I can connect the existing speakers to the new amp without having to cut factory wiring?

4) Any issues to expect when driving the Bose speakers with a new amp (Bose speakers are 6 ohms I believe)?

5) Is there a remote turn on lead in the factory harness that connects to the Bose amp?

Many thanks in advance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe this can be of help to someone. In the absence of replies I went ahead and uninstalled the CD changer and amp and plugged in the Autoleads adapter harness I had purchased. I also tested each individual speaker connection both at the ISO plug (headunit) end and at the other end where the harness connects to the large factory amp connector (image below)

986_amp_connector.JPG

So on my 2003 Boxster S with the CDR23 head unit, optically connected amp and CD changer in the frunk, and Bose speaker enclosure behind the seats, the pinouts are as follows.

Autoleads harness end/factory harness end (from factory amp to speakers):

  • White Pair: left dash speaker -> Yellow Pair
  • Violet Pair: right door speaker -> Violet Pair
  • Green Pair: left door speaker -> Green Pair
  • Gray Pair: right dash speaker -> Red Pair
  • Yellow/black Pair -> brown/red-blue Pair to Battery +/-

So the first 4 pairs allow a new head unit to power the dash and door speakers just by plugging in the ISO connector. The Autoleads harness has bullet connectors so the four channels can be reassigned to different pins in the ISO connector if necessary, or re routed to an amp.

Then there are some open ended, 10" long wires at the amp location connector on the Autoleads harness. Here's their counterparts at the factory harness end:

  • Red Pair -> Blue Pair (not connected to any speaker in my car)
  • yellow-green/brown Pair -> none
  • yellow-gray/brown Pair -> none
  • Blue Pair -> none
  • Orange Pair -> white/white-brown Pair to Rear Enclosure

Which provides the following useful information:

  1. Very easy to just plug in a new head unit using built in amplification to dash and door speakers, using the Autoleads harness. No new amp necessary.
  2. Because the Autoleads harness has bullet connectors on the speaker leads, it is simple to select wich speakers get connected to the head unit or to an amp in the frunk.
  3. The rear Bose speaker enclosure is wired as a SINGLE channel. So if the mid/tweeters in the enclosure are to be powered separately from the "woofers", an additional 2 channels of speaker wiring needs to be routed from the frunk to behind the seats. This is in contrary to the amp pinout posted here which suggests three channels to the rear.
  4. Without a diagram of the internals of the factory Bose amp, I cannot determine if it powers the dash or door speakers, or both, as they are all wired to the amp connector.

Edited by nota911
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.