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2005 CS Front Pass Bowden Cable Broken

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2005 Cayenne S front passenger bowden cable broke so passenger cannot open door from the inside using the inner door release lever... have to open door from the outside.


Part number for bowden cable is 95553102400 I think.


Followed "Door Panel Removal" instructions.  Inner panel almost all off, just have to remove the top part of the panel thats still "stuck" to the door... have to figure out how to "pop" it off without breaking anything.


Stuck my hand behind panel and felt bowden cable is broken.


The "door panel removal" instructions were helpful.  Is there instructions to replace the bowden cable?  The cable runs into the door panel to the other side of the door.  Do I have to remove the lock actuator?  I have no idea right now.


Thanks in advance.

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I've proceeded with removing the trim panel.  Hopefully recording what I have done can help others.  But I still need to know whether or not I have to drill out 4 rivets at the top of the inner metal panel that holds everything, eg. regulator and speaker, etc.. (looks like I will have to remove the rivets).


Pull off the inner panel.  It has six retaining clips, what Porsche calls "fixing clips".  The locations are marked on the picture.  Knowing the locations would help you pull of the panel with minimal damage.  One of the six retaining clip base broke off and can't be used again.  Two others sort of cracked but can still be used.  The red boxes are rivets.  The green box locates the bowden cable where it enters into the other side of the inside metal panel.  The six yellow circles are where the retaining clips are.




Backside of the inner panel.  The 3 yellow circles show the retaining clips that were undamaged when I pulled off the panel.  The 2 orange circles are where the retaining clips stayed on the metal panel.  The one on left shows the base is a bit damaged but still can be used I think.  The 1 red circle shows where a retaining clip base broke off, like can't be reused.  The 2 green boxes shows plastic blue alignment pins.  They fit into two holes on the metal inside panel... so to pull the trim panel off, one has to pull it out from the bottom first (so the alignment pins are out of their holes), then pull the panel up.




Across on the top of the inner panel is a strip that runs practically the whole length of the panel.  It hooks into a grove that runs the width of the door.  There are 3 clips that help retain the inner panel at the top.  The yellow circle shows the marks left on the strip by one of the clips.  The clips are small and not very strong... so to pull the inner panel off, like described above, pull the bottom out first then just jiggle and lift upwards.




The following picture show one of three small clips in a groove at the top of the door.




I don't know if it was necessary, but I lowered the window all the way first before pulling the inner panel off.


Disconnect the speaker connector (tweeter I think).  Then disconnect the bigger multi connector (controls the window and another speaker and power locks I think).  The following pictures shows a lever that needs to be "moved" that helps pull out the connector.







I will continue with the next post (due to total picture size upload restrictions).




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The next picture shows the bowden cable going through the inside metal panel.




So my question is: do I have to drill the four rivets out to remove the inside metal panel "to get to the other side"?



Another picture: the retaining clips.  The one of the right has the broken base.





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  • 1 year later...

Hey ricky1, did you ever manage to get the metal door panel off? I'm in a similar situation and have removed the rivets but the metal panel is still showing resistance. Any tips/advice would be great. 

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I found mine had several rivets in addition to the 5 that are usually shown. This is from the Passenger Front Window thread below.




I had to drill out the bottom two blue ones in addition to the 5, they were attached to a plastic guard which is attached to the other side.


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Yeah I kept working away and discovered some resistance right where you mentioned. Once you drill off those rivets was it easy enough to get back together again or did you need to rivet them back to the plastic guard?

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