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ciaka

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ciaka last won the day on September 11 2018

ciaka had the most liked content!

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About ciaka

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    Contributing Member

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    TX - Best Country in the World
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  • Present cars
    Porsche Cayenne
  • Future cars
    Who knows

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  1.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial DIY: Steering Knuckle / Wheel carrier removal for bearing replacement. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  2. Before I started, I called around and found a shop that has a press and many adapters, so they can press out wheel hub from wheel carrier, then press out the bearing, then press in new bearing and finally press in old wheel hub. Shop I found did it for me, charged me 20 bucks, 20 minutes. Below shows you what you need to remove to get to the wheel carrier, so you can take it to shop and have bearing replaced. Hope this helps out. You would want to do this if you notice noises in car while driving, such as rythmic tapping (without any vibration), or general much louder noise while driving. These are typical symptoms of bearing going bad (balls being shaved a little, creating noises while driving). In my case, I heard general increased road noise, and tapping that increased as speed was increased. While driving in tight circles on road, noticed the tapping became much more pronounced while turning left. While turning right, the tapping would almost disappear. Therefore, since turning left puts more load/weight onto right side axle, I deduced the right or passenger side needs bearing replacement. Axle was not compromised, in great shape, so I did not replace it. Some replace both axle and bearing. Since my axle was stuck to the carrier, i had to use propane torch from walmart, to heat inner perimeter of hub, then used 8-10lbs sledge to bang onto axle, to separate from wheel carrier. I used old spindle nut as shield for axle, so I can reuse the axle, with new purchased spindle nut. Replacing entire wheel carrier will cost you about 1000 bucks. Buying bearing for 100, paying about 20 for a shop to replace bearing itself, and doing work on your own will save you about 2000 bucks on this job. Good luck and chime in with comments if needed.
  3.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial DIY: Steering Knuckle Bearing Repacking. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  4. Before you install new bearing into the knuckle, it is recommended you repack the grease. Why? The oem grease is about 200˚F. Repacking with high pressure and high temp (800˚F - CV-2), will ensure max protection. This will be part of my diy for replacing bearing, but making this separate in case folks do on their own too.
  5. My guess, without diagnostics, you may have air shocks leaking air and they do not get raised high enough to tell car it is at proper level for driving. Regardless of mileage, rubber starts leaking. Put your car into normal mode, and see if it appears low (front and/or back wheels very close to well edges). If yes, definitely shocks. You will need to open hood, unscrew the triangle covers that cover shock tops on each side, use soapy water to find if top of shocks/connectors are leaking air. Bubbles will tell you they are. I have DIY threads on air suspension which you should find and read to help understand. Also, if this is not air shock related, it may be PDCC related. Do you have messages on cluster with more detail? Hope this gives you starting point. Thanks.
  6. Anyone know what the part numbers are for the guide pins, that get screwed into calipers? They are what the front pads travel on (the pins go through the holes in the brake pads). If rear ones exist too, I would love the PNs. And if you know of a place to buy, man, you will make my day.
  7. IMO (and it is, my opinion only), the latest rev of the Panamera looks like an older audi, not popping at all. Removed anything that could make it stand out, and made it criticism safe. Poor choice IMO, and a negative move. I now like the prev gen look much more.
  8.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial DIY: PDK Transmission Factory Reset Procedure. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  9. If you buy your car pre owned, or if it went into limp mode, or you just think you have some quirks in it, one way to diagnose or pd if you have issues, is to try reset the PDK itself. The car learns driver habits over time. After a few years, a new owner may have different driving style, and this reset will help the new owner get car into factory condition, so it can learn new owner habits and hopefully be a better experience for the new driver. Below pic is from Porsche, and gives 4 steps on how to reset PDK to factory mode. Good luck. Hope it helps someone here.
  10.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial DIY: Panamera Oil Change. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  11. I did not bother to do a DIY for oil change, because there are some vids out there on how to perform this work. Below is a link to one of these videos, will walk you through the complete oil change. Items I used: - Oil: Castrol Edge full synthetic 5W40 - purchased 10 quarts, will use about 9 or so - Oil Filter: Mahle OX 254 D4 - replace this part every time - Drain plug: 900 219 020 31 - if you are gentle and do not screw up the hex hole in the plug, you can re use the plug. Be gentle, get proper tools (8mm hex/allen wrench) - Drain plug gasket: 900 123 106 30 - put in a new one with every oil change. If oil starts leaking here, you will waste an hour or two to replace just this part, plug oil cost. All for $0.50 savings. There are magnetic oil drain plugs out there. I may try one at some point to see how much metallic particulate collects on it. Not today though. Below is a video for complete oil change. After oil change, make sure to reset the oil change service interval, by following instructions in this DIY - Durametric users. Thanks. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwHgrbN5TaM
  12.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial Panamera Air Shock Replacement (Front). Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  13.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial Removing Stuck Ignition Coil Rubber Boot. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  14. Here is something that I think will help many here. One of the maintenance tasks I did was replacing coils and plugs. Easy enough. After replacing the parts, and while tightening the eTorx ignition coil bolts (aluminum), I was not careful and snapped bolt on cylinder 3. BTW, its 3ft/lbs +90˚ (but with SMALL wrench, not 3/8) Since coils sit there pretty well, I left it as is until I got the bolt and had time to remove/replace (I do have some tips for removing the snapped part of the bolt - really easy actually - will post in another thread). Anyways, today was the day. I removed the covers, exposed wires, removed all bolts, then pulled on the ignition coil #3. Would not budge initially. Applied more force, and started wiggling. Eventually coil started moving and popped up. To my surprise, only the coil came up, the rubber boot got stuck on the ceramic part of spark plug. It is not coming out. Used needle nose pliers to lift it. Nope. Used a 90K sharp tool to poke hole in boot to lift - Nope as well. Twisted. Rotated. Pushed. Pulled. Prayed. Nothing worked. Contemplated torching. Good thing did not do this one..lol. Then, thought, why not think like a spark plug? What if a rubber boot got stuck on me? How would it get stuck on me? What would cause that? Once stuck, what would work if I was in a tight space? Then it hit me. Need something to lubricate the rubber to help ease rubber off the plug. To put the lube between plug and boot, I would need something to separate them. So while looking in my junk drawer of tool box, found a used metal band clamp, with a thin long end. Perfect to slide into the plug hole, right next to the plug ceramic, and try separate the rubber. Took the band out, flattened out and with a little lube, managed to separate one area, removed, inserted again just a bit over to one side, so I can separate another bit. Continued for a little until I thought I have decent amount of rubber separated and lubed (thought about 75% around the circle). Grabbed my small and long needle nose pliers, pulled on the rubber, and the whole thing came up without any effort at all. Total job after I got the idea - about 5 minutes. Before that, I watched videos, and many showed all kinds of fancy bits/sockets, made tools, to try budge the rubber. Typical job about 3 hours. I am sure glad I thought of this and want to pass on to others, so they don't waste 3 hours of their life, trying to move a small piece of black rubber out of a small hole. Good luck and let me know what you think or if you have additional comments.
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