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About creekman

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  • Birthday 09/11/1936

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2003 PORSCHE C2S - LS3 480HP V8
  • Former cars
    1984 Porsche Turbo Look
    1953 Porsche coupe
    1958 Porsche Convertible"D"
    1958 Porsche GT 4 Cam Speedster
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    1976 Porsche 914 - 2.0
    1956 300SL Gull Wing
    1958 300SL Roadster
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  1. I've had the same problem for some time and when my A/C cold air took a long time to come online I decided to follow the tech tutorial... Warning: my door would come out per the tutorial... My Vent door is captured by the 2 halves of the evaporator box. Maybe because the tech tip was based on a Boxster, or my 996 C4S is different it was a bust. My suggestion is to start under the dash and see if the door is hinged with the removable bushing before tearing into the upper trunk area first Turned out that I had a very small weep in the pressure side line under the car. The A/C is now working fine even though I removed a lot of the foam during my try at removing the door.
  2. I have heard that... in fact, I heard that it can damage the evac equipment, etc. However, this product specifically says it doesn't do that. I know where the weep is, but it means evacuating the system replacing a 4' hose and recharging. I guess what sums it up on one of the websites with a review if this product was so good, why doesn't DuPont make and sell it. I'll probably tear into it... Thanks, Mitch
  3. I have a A/C fitting leak on the high side line. It's only a weep, not a dripping leak. I've seen/read where there are stop leak additives for this kind of leak. In particular, a product called "Red Angel" by Blue Devil products. Does this product work, or is it snake oil... Thanks, Mitch
  4. So is the squeak when the engine is not running? Could be a bent or broken throw out arm? Sounds like you're on the right track, take one thing at a time. I hope it's an external problem, and not open heart surgery. Remember if you get the car up on jack stands put some blocks or wheels under the car for safety so you don't get squash if it falls off the stands. It does happen...
  5. Billy, How many miles on your car or clutch in the event it has been replaced. I think, or been told that 60,000 miles is a typical service life of the clutch. So the bottom line is you can get into any gear now, but when you depress the pedal to the floor you get creep as the clutch does not fully disengage?
  6. I'm guessing, and I'm no expert, but the cable/rod end got cocked some way and that was your shifting problem, not the clutch. You didn't tell us when you had the low and reverse problem whether you were able to shift into the other gears ok? If so then that would make it the rod end at the transmission, if not then maybe your clutch theory holds up. Either way, I'm glad it worked out, however it's always nice to know why...
  7. There are 2 cables with rod ends that connect to the transmission on the right side, I believe in your case the low and reverse work off the same cable so that's why you were having trouble. You'll have to get under the car and remove the belly pans. It's probably an easy fix if you can get your car up in the air.
  8. What about disconnecting the battery and see if that resets the computer. However, from your post it sounds more mechanical... but disconnecting the battery can't hurt...
  9. What a mess, and a helpless feeling. I guess it can't hurt to disconnect the battery, you can't be any worst off. Do you know where the cable release is, it's not easy to get to. I re-routed mine to the back of the bumper tow hook plug. Have you tried all the keys you have to be sure you've exhausted that avenue? The other thing that you might try is calling the Police Department and see if one of their people would come out and break into your car. At least here in our small town, they will do that. If they will do that be sure you tell them what kind of a car you have since some cars cannot be jimmied.
  10. I would say yes, I guess it's a normally closed relay for so many amps which can be duplicated easily enough. However, the Porsche relay might have specific mounting tabs that the generic relay will not have. Most of the above information will be found on the replay.
  11. Maybe it's a bad "O" ring. I had a problem with a leaky "O" ring, it was fine as long as the car was driving, but when you stopped the pressure in the system built up and leaked out. Any chance your header tank is over filled, you don't want your coolant over the "max" mark on the header tank. Then you have the 3rd radiator for the TIP radiator cooling?
  12. Thanks for the reply... I thought your fix was brilliant, but I've spent several hours trying to remove the plugs, sleeves, or bushings. I had a car buddy come by yesterday and he spent time on his back under the dash with the same out come. I wanted to be sure that I hadn't missed anything. After all, if I can install a V8 in my Porsche I should be able to remove any plugs, etc. LOL The only way to get the mixing doors out is to split the heater/evap box. I have the Durametric program. Yes... the door is made of thin metal, probably aluminum. I agree the 986 and the 966 is the same forward of the firewall. I guess it is what it is. What I might suggest is to go back and modify your tutorial and suggest that the first thing you do is to go under the dash and drop the actuator arm and be sure there's a plug and it comes out. Then go topside and remove the cowling, etc. I started an update but stopped when I ran into the plug situation. Here are my pix and comments so far. I could take pixs of the open hole showing what I can of the flap door.
  13. I did remove the servo and arm, what year car and model did you perform this miracle on? I'm wondering if the year or model has changed the way the mixing door is installed. Believe me, there are no plugs, bushings that will come of their captive position without cracking the box halves... Do you remember if the ends of the mixing door were attached to the plugs? Were the plugs slotted, or clock to the plugs. It appears to me that the plugs are permanently attached to the doors and the plugs rotate in the box halves. I poked holes through what was left of the foam on the doors trying to muscle the door up and down. No play that way... So now I think to at least be no worst off is to clean the mixing door on the one accessible side and see if I can get a strip of duct tape to adhere. I called Porsche of San Antonio they want 11 hrs. to R&R the dash at $165.00., plus a new box. Probably a $2,000 repair. I don't think so... If I have to I can probably take the dash out myself, but like you say there's always that chance you won't get it back in without a glitch. Thanks, Mitch
  14. I opened up my 2003 996 C4S per the tutorial but got to the "plugs" and there are none... The door will not come out unless the two halves of the evaporator/heater box are split. That's disappointing to get that far and come up short. Any thoughts... Thanks, Mitch
  15. More questions: The foam that was spitting out of the vents, mostly on the left side was a gray material. After exposing the mixing door through the heater core the foam covering on the door is a 'very' paper thin gold color. That leaves me to wonder if the foam was even from the mixing door in the first place. I think there are 2 different foams here... Sure would be nice if there's anyone out there with more information than I have... Mitch,

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