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About creekman

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    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 09/11/1936

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  • From
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2003 PORSCHE C2S - LS3 480HP V8
  • Former cars
    1984 Porsche Turbo Look
    1953 Porsche coupe
    1958 Porsche Convertible"D"
    1958 Porsche GT 4 Cam Speedster
    1964 Porsche SC Coupe
    1976 Porsche 914 - 2.0
    1956 300SL Gull Wing
    1958 300SL Roadster
    4 Ferrari's
    3 MGTC's
    A few more interesting cars.

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  1. creekman

    Tire pressures

    Wizard, nicely said... Air pressure for the tires is as important as oil and water to the engine...
  2. Steve, Why not run the compressor take a long screwdriver and put the pointy end on the compressor and the big end in your ear and see what you hear...
  3. Steve, Probably won't fix the problem, but it's worth the shot... Keep us posted.
  4. Steve, why not recharge the A/C, then determine if the fan is still whining? Take one thing at a time...
  5. The problem I had was there was no way to remove the door without removing the evaporator housing. The original tech tip was performed on a Boxster, my 2003 C4S evaporator door would not come out of the lower pivot housing. I would suggest anyone that wants to try this, first be sure that the bottom pivot will come out, then attack the topside parts for removal.
  6. I've had the same problem for some time and when my A/C cold air took a long time to come online I decided to follow the tech tutorial... Warning: my door would come out per the tutorial... My Vent door is captured by the 2 halves of the evaporator box. Maybe because the tech tip was based on a Boxster, or my 996 C4S is different it was a bust. My suggestion is to start under the dash and see if the door is hinged with the removable bushing before tearing into the upper trunk area first Turned out that I had a very small weep in the pressure side line under the car. The A/C is now working fine even though I removed a lot of the foam during my try at removing the door.
  7. I have heard that... in fact, I heard that it can damage the evac equipment, etc. However, this product specifically says it doesn't do that. I know where the weep is, but it means evacuating the system replacing a 4' hose and recharging. I guess what sums it up on one of the websites with a review if this product was so good, why doesn't DuPont make and sell it. I'll probably tear into it... Thanks, Mitch
  8. I have a A/C fitting leak on the high side line. It's only a weep, not a dripping leak. I've seen/read where there are stop leak additives for this kind of leak. In particular, a product called "Red Angel" by Blue Devil products. Does this product work, or is it snake oil... Thanks, Mitch
  9. So is the squeak when the engine is not running? Could be a bent or broken throw out arm? Sounds like you're on the right track, take one thing at a time. I hope it's an external problem, and not open heart surgery. Remember if you get the car up on jack stands put some blocks or wheels under the car for safety so you don't get squash if it falls off the stands. It does happen...
  10. Billy, How many miles on your car or clutch in the event it has been replaced. I think, or been told that 60,000 miles is a typical service life of the clutch. So the bottom line is you can get into any gear now, but when you depress the pedal to the floor you get creep as the clutch does not fully disengage?
  11. I'm guessing, and I'm no expert, but the cable/rod end got cocked some way and that was your shifting problem, not the clutch. You didn't tell us when you had the low and reverse problem whether you were able to shift into the other gears ok? If so then that would make it the rod end at the transmission, if not then maybe your clutch theory holds up. Either way, I'm glad it worked out, however it's always nice to know why...
  12. There are 2 cables with rod ends that connect to the transmission on the right side, I believe in your case the low and reverse work off the same cable so that's why you were having trouble. You'll have to get under the car and remove the belly pans. It's probably an easy fix if you can get your car up in the air.
  13. What about disconnecting the battery and see if that resets the computer. However, from your post it sounds more mechanical... but disconnecting the battery can't hurt...
  14. What a mess, and a helpless feeling. I guess it can't hurt to disconnect the battery, you can't be any worst off. Do you know where the cable release is, it's not easy to get to. I re-routed mine to the back of the bumper tow hook plug. Have you tried all the keys you have to be sure you've exhausted that avenue? The other thing that you might try is calling the Police Department and see if one of their people would come out and break into your car. At least here in our small town, they will do that. If they will do that be sure you tell them what kind of a car you have since some cars cannot be jimmied.
  15. I would say yes, I guess it's a normally closed relay for so many amps which can be duplicated easily enough. However, the Porsche relay might have specific mounting tabs that the generic relay will not have. Most of the above information will be found on the replay.

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