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creekman

Contributing Members
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creekman last won the day on October 5 2015

creekman had the most liked content!

About creekman

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 09/11/1936

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    FREDERICKSBURG, TEXAS
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2003 PORSCHE C2S - LS3 480HP V8
  • Former cars
    1984 Porsche Turbo Look
    1953 Porsche coupe
    1958 Porsche Convertible"D"
    1958 Porsche GT 4 Cam Speedster
    1964 Porsche SC Coupe
    1976 Porsche 914 - 2.0
    1956 300SL Gull Wing
    1958 300SL Roadster
    4 Ferrari's
    3 MGTC's
    A few more interesting cars.

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  1. Wasfi , If you go with the stock rear end gears you'll leave all your tire rubber on the street, if you can afford it I would go with a 3:0 ring and pinion. My car turns about 2,800 RPM's at 80 MPH, or red line 205 MPH. If you don't change the ring and pinion you have too much HP for the low gears. Renegade Hybrid in Las Vegas has the adapter housing and clutch assemblies to connect the 350 SBC to the Porsche transaxle. I did all my own mechanical work, but the rub for me was mating the GM ECU to the Porsche instruments, etc. I spent a lot of money with a couple of hi-tech guys to make everything work including the cruise control. 2 Things that still have a hiccup is the temp gauge and gas gauge. I have a wide body car and the gas tank is configured differently, with a standard body car I don't you'll have that problem. As far as the water temp gauge there is no fix for that, it will work for awhile, then quit, I reset it with my OBDII reader and it's good again. I also installed a digital temp gauge as a backup. This conversion isn't cheap if you do it right with new parts so don't be mislead, there's a lot of expenses to make the conversion "factory". If you just want to go 0-60 with your hair on fire then that's another story. I have a LS3 480 HP motor, and it's breath taking to drive... Good luck, if I can help you further, just ask... misery loves company...
  2. It sounds like you already know where you want your seat heater switches to be placed, I had a couple of empties on the horseshoe surround so moved mine there... Made a new bat wing filler. I like this since all the switches are in one place. You'll note that I exchanged places with the cubby and A/C control panel. Again I wanted all the business of switching and controls seamless to one another. I did have to section the cubby to fit, but it wasn't much good anyway other than a place for your iphone.
  3. Roy, Do you have the Duarmetric program to erase faults... That might be one shot, is Loren suggesting that if you had a bad lamp that would make the C/C in-op? Have you depress the button on the end of the windshield stalk. I think that's right?
  4. Turbo, there're two ways... first look in your owner's manual... There is a cable around the right side head light bucket area. Pretty difficult to get to unless you know where it is. The second and easiest would be to jump the electrical lugs at the kick panel fuse panel. You'll need an auxiliary 12 volt source for this. Again this procedure is described in your owner's manual. In my case when I had the front bumper cover off I routed the hood cable to the tow eye plug, so I would just need to pop off the tow eye plug and the cable was right there. Oh, I had to drill an 1/8" hole in the aluminum bumper to pull the cable through to the plug area.
  5. In lieu of a Durametric program try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and see if that clears your fault...
  6. You can go into the fuse panel (I would pull back the panel and work from the back) and use a light probe or multimeter to find switched power.
  7. If you have removed your seat then you'll have to erase the airbag code.
  8. Greg, As the other members suggested it sounds (no pun intended) like a throw out bearing. Usually any mechanic or even a non mechanic for the money will replace the throwout bearing if he gets within 10' of the clutch. It's the cheapest part of a clutch job. Do you have a work order that shows the parts that were installed? Have you tried to isolate the noise by moving the clutch pedal in and out... Sounds like you got a bad shop that won't even discuss your problem. Let us know what you find... Good luck,
  9. We've done that until our pinky's have blisters... I set both the Porsche and Escalade at the old house 10 years ago and it was a no brainerd, but this time it's been a pain.
  10. fpb11, I think we've found the problem, the new doors incorporate both a "rolling technology" and a common security feature. It's a very complex system. I believe I'll need a "repeater" to bridge my 2003 Homelink system with the new doors. I'll stop by the door people tomorrow and see what they have to say, earlier they thought that I might escape the repeater, or at least he said 80% of the time you won't need it. I hate being the other 20%... Thanks for your input.
  11. Thanks for the reply... I've Googled Homelink and read and re-read the instructions, no joy yet.
  12. I have a new house and I can't find any info in the owner's manual on how to cancel the old codes and reset a new code for the garage door operator. I see on newer cars that you press the two outside buttons until the light flashes, but that doesn't seem to work. Plus the owner's manual doesn't show the rear view mirror and the buttons... Thanks,
  13. Creekman here: I sold my motor with all the accessories with 65,000 miles for $7,000. I tried to sell other parts, back seats, rear spoiler mechanism, engine room fans, etc. at give away prices without success. I wouldn't hinge your decision and project on what you'll get for the engine since you'll be a lot deeper into costs than what you'll get out of the Porsche engine, particularly with a 129K miles. However if money isn't the lyinch pin to your project, go for it... The car is breath taking to drive. I believe Renegade has made improvements to "how to" on working out a lot of the electrical issues since I built mine.
  14. The MaxJax has 5 large bolts that screw into permanent anchors in the floor. As long as you have a 4" slab you're good to go. The feature is that you can remove the bolts and wheel the post out of the way when not in use. The post has wheels so it can be moved around without much effort. However I've never moved mine. I just park a little to the rear of the garage so the doors can swing full open without hitting the post. The install is pretty easy, you'll need a rotorhammer for drilling holes in the concrete. I've had my car up and down so many times I couldn't even count. It's great for cleaning wheels, oil changes, removing the belly pans, etc. I'll take more pixs and post. Also the MaxJax dealer was really helpful, I had the need to replace some parts and they sent it out without any questions. Nice people... If anyone ends up installing this lift I can give you some good advise on the install, I came up with some short cuts on the install. If you enjoy working on your car $2,000 for a $30,000 plus car isn't a deal breaker. I wouldn't leave home without it... I'm not a paid employee, but just a happy customer... :-)
  15. I finally bit the bullet and bought a MaxJax 2 post lift that fits under my 8' garage ceiling. I sit on a BoneTail rolling chair and scoot around under the car. The MaxJax lift is good for 6,000 lbs so I feel safe and I don't have to worry about getting a jack under the car and having to rely on jack stands. I appreciate the cost of the lift is signficant, but your life is too. I bought my MaxJax lift from Costco on sale, $1,900, free delivery. You might ralionalize the cost by saving a couple hundred dollars an oil change at the dealer, plus have a lot more fun working on your car.