Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
-
OBD II P-Codes - Paint Codes
- Registry
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'boxster s'.
Found 12 results
-
Hey Friends Regarding my 2001 Boxster S, 6-speed manual... As happens almost every winter, my battery died and I didn't pop the hood in time so I'm locked out. I tried jumping the block in the fuse panel, which has worked before, but not this time. When I first had power going to the fuse panel block, I heard a clicking sound coming from the area of the electric switches, but neither switch would engage. After a little while of trying, I stopped hearing the clicking sound when I had power hooked up. Does anyone have any other methods to get the frunk open? Does the "pull cable in the wheel well" method work in cars that have electric release switches? Thanks! Stay well, Ted -
Radio "dead" after replacing battery. I HAVE THE CODES! (But no way to enter them) I see a lot of info out there about how to find your lost radio codes and whatnot, but that is not my problem as I have my codes. The issue is that after 1)having a dead battery, 2)replacing said battery, and 3)having the car sit unused for a week while waiting on a replacement coolant tank part, I NOW HAVE A DEAD-SCREEN RADIO AND NO WAY TO ENTER THE CODE OR TURN ON THE RADIO. I can see that other people may have experienced this phenomenon but I can't seem to find anyone with a published solution as everyone seems to digress into a discussion of where to find your radio codes, etc. I assume that there is some sort of arcane Porsche security gremlin at work here, and that I need to follow some other sort of procedure in order to get my radio to accept the code and unlock itself. But without the radio showing any signs of life at all, how do I get into this? Or is my radio now dead for no apparent reason?! (e.g., it was working just fine up until the dead battery and service work time-span). I hate to invest in a replacement radio until I can ascertain what would make it suddenly die(?) Never in all my years of auto ownership have I seen a radio just "go silent". So what's up here? -
The rear window on my 2001 S has separated from the canvas, and the tan top is dingy and past its prime. I no longer have a garage, so I am forced to outsource it. I would appreciate some informed opinions. I'm looking at a GAAH A5 Acoustic glass window top. The dealer is saying $2,700-$3k installed. A reputable convertible/interior specialist is coming in at $2,200. The dealer talked about needing to buy additional sound insulation, clips and etc., which is either building in additional profit, or it may be totally justified because they have experience and might provide additional quality. I don't have an excess of cash for a 18 y/o car so I'm soliciting experienced opinions: Assuming the local top specialist is truly skilled at their game, should I expect that they can handle this, along with connecting the heating element? I doubt they have done many A5 Acoustic glass retrofits, whereas the dealer has likely done a few. If I go with the local specialists, are there some unique things I need to specify they order/replace/pay attention to? Should I give more weight to (a) Porsche dealer that only occasionally does a top or (b) the people who do tops all the time, but just not Porsches? All informed opinions are welcome. Thanks! -
Hi All My first post here so please bear with me but pretty desperate for help. Have 2004 Boxster S and its, in general, running a bit rough (feels fuel rich). It also will also, on occasion, not go. Pulling up at a busy intersection and car reduces to Idle. Then put the foot down and the car stays at idle. Normally an engine restart gets things going again (although not always and sometimes requires a few goes). Bought a computer reader and found error codes P0102: Factory Fault code 115 - Mass air flow sensor - below limit P2135: Accelerator Pedal - Signal Implausible P0121: Factor Fault code 117 - Throttle value or accelerator pedal potentiometer - signal implausible P1266: Factory Fault Code 409 - Fuel shutoff function monitor - signal implausible Took the car to Porsche. They suggest a MAF sensor was the root cause and replaced it. It felt better for a few days then problem returned. They replaced another MAF sensor.. Same problem. They then said the MAF reads 0 and have checked the cables so its me DME and it needs replacing (not cheap) Have taken the car back home and looked at the likely affecting values myself from the computer. 1. MAF. The computer shows to different values for MAF Mass air flow (HFM) is always 0 regardless of if the car is working correctly or not and at any accelerator level Mass air flow seems to move within a range of 18 (idle) to 100 (full throttle) 2. Throttle (since it had error codes on this) Pedal encoder potentiometer 1 and 2 always move and the pedal value goes from 0-100% when its working but stays at 0 when its not. Since the potentiometers always move I am assuming the DME simply can't add things up so sticks the pedal value at 0. ie. The MAF sensor reading above confuses the DME and it reduces the throttle to 0. That feel consistent with the behaviour of the car (its just sticks at idle) Any one with any clues? Certainly don't want to replace the DME unless absolutely necessary.... HELP?
-
What is this engine / emission component?
jaymcjay posted a topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
I've recently purchased this 2002 Boxster S and have been going thru it trying to tidy up all of the various loose ends left for me by the previous owner. All my google-imaging has left me empty handed on what little gadget is under this black tape. I KNOW I'm getting a vacuum leak from it...... Thanks All!
-
Advice - New After-Market Head Unit
Top_Down_Tim posted a topic in 987-1 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Here's my first post I own a 987 2006 Boxster S. I'm thinking of upgrading the head unit. The current one, no longer ejects cd's, has no cell phone interface and the nav system sucks. I do have the upgraded Bose system, so want to keep that part of it but with a new head unit. So have a bunch of questions. 1. Who makes the best quality head unit out there as far as sound quality, features and looks? I'd like it too look good in my Boxster. Alpine? Kenwood? Pioneer? 2. Interested in Ipod connectivity, blu-tooth, cell phone interface, navigation system. I guess all the bells and whistles 3. Would be nice if I could play cd's but not a requirement. 4. I believe I need a device to interface with the Bose amplifiers and speakers. Any recommendations? 5. I know on the 2007 Boxsters, the center console map pocket had the connections for USB etc. Can I update the center console piece with one from the 2007 Boxster? 6. Is it a DIY project? Or best left to a professional? 7. Since replacing the Porsche unit with after market, would it effect resale value? Porsche buyers are so darn picky. 8. Anything else I should be aware of? -
Hi guys! When I have my hood down and lock the car, then stick my hand in alarm does nothing. Is this a senor issue, also how easy to fix? 2007 Boxster S Cheers for any responses, Mart -
What should I buy?
Andrew Ullmann posted a topic in 986 Boxster Convertible Top Issues and Solutions
Hi. I am new to this group, and new to Porsche. I would like to buy a "summer runaround" car for fun to celebrate my "big" birthday.... I'm going to be 30 for the second time! I have a budget of £5000, and there are quite a few good cars available, but I would like some advice, please: I have found a 1998 R Boxster which has had lots of work done on it, with FSH. I have found a 2001 "51" plate Boxster S, which also has lots of service history. I have found a 1999 Boxster which has history also, but has a few more signs of age, but is over £1000 cheaper. I am not a mechanic, and I don't know what to look for.... Some guidance would be appreciated. Thanks Andrew -
Not been on this site for years - just got back to Porsche ownership - 2011 Boxster S. Only done a few miles so far, but it looks and sounds great, especially compared with my diesel main car. The original owner ordered lots of options, but not everything I would prefer. So, I need to know if it's possible / easy / expensive to fit the following: 1) Ability to disable / enable the passenger airbag so a child seat can be fitted from time-to-time. Is it possible to fit an aftermarket switch? 2) The car has PCM 3 (with extended nav) but no bluetooth, aux or usb. Is there a way to upgrade PCM 3 or is it best to have an after market system fitted? (Odd that these were options when the actual components cost a few pence!) Thanks for your suggestions
-
My 2002 Boxster S keeps blowing the fuse in the rear of the radio. When I replace it the radio works. After turning the radio back on it blows the fuse. I want to replace the radio with a newer model of radio but those also have fuses in the back of them. My car has the Bose system with door speakers. I don't want to replace the radio if the problem with just blow fuses on the new unit. I have searched many threads but not have come across this problem (Fuse on back of radio repeatedly blowing. Any insight to this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!! -
I'm getting ready to put my engine back in after rebuilding it and I was wondering if I am going to need to have a rear wheel alignment done afterward. You have to take off so many brackets, braces, and supports that I'm feel like the whole procedure would throw the alignment out of whack. My problem is that my nearest Porsche shop is 50 miles away and I wouldn't want to have to drive it there with the alignment out badly. Any thoughts or advice?? Tom -
Having problem with passenger's side door, door doesn't open. Using remote to lock the doors, everything goes locked. Trying to open the doors, everything opens but passenger side door doesn't, car give 2 beeps. Door won't open from inside or outside handle. It just refuses to open. When pressin opening button from the remote, you can hear something is moving there but door refuses to open. Been driving 3 weeks without getting passenger door open, then suddenly one day it opens normally. After driving locked the doors -> again same problem, passenger door won't open. Used car for two weeks and one beautiful morning it opened again. What's wrong with it, what do you suggest to do? Here is the picture of Alarm input signals, when both doors closed: http://www.amigosracing.eu/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/021013_MLM991.jpg I'm wondering why driver's side says door secured but passenger side don't? And here is the fault codes: Alarm I32 Module Identification Part Number 996.618.260.06 Supplier Part Number 080504003007 Current Fault Codes 60 Central locking limit position Lock not reached Status: present Occurance Counter: 1 47 Control locking synchronization Status: not present Occurance Counter: 2 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 1 Door(s) secured and terminal 15 on Status: not present Occurance Counter: 2 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 33 Interior sensor faulty Status: not present Occurance Counter: 6 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 59 Central locking limit position Secure not reached Status: not present Occurance Counter: 2 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 48 Airbag signal acknowledged Status: not present Occurance Counter: 2 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 10 Voltage failure at terminal 30 with alarm system active Status: not present Occurance Counter: 3 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 43 Alarm actuation by passenger's door Status: not present Occurance Counter: 3 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 44 Alarm actuation by driver's door Status: not present Occurance Counter: 1 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 61 Central locking limit position Unlock not reached Status: not present Occurance Counter: 3 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. Thanks!
